IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Hiotographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  145*0 

(716)  873-4503 


fA 


^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


L'Institut  a  microfilrpd  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique.  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modificution  tlans  la  m6thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


D 


D 


D 
0 
D 

n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommag^e 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurie  et/ou  pellicul^e 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  g6ographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relii  avec  d'autres  documents 


□   Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

0    Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 


D 
D 


v 


D 
D 


Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  pellicul6es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  ddcolories,  tacheties  ou  piqudes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tachdes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  indgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplimentaire 


n 


D 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serrde  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int6rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouttes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  itait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmies. 


D 


V 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  t  u'ement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6X6  filmdes  6  nouveau  de  fa^on  6 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


n 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl^mentaires; 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  r6duction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

V 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


aire 

;  details 
ues  du 
t  modifier 
ger  une 
I  filmage 


The  copy  filmed  here  hes  been  reproduced  thenke 
to  the  generosity  of: 

University  of  Alberta 
Edmortton 

• 

The  imeges  sppeering  here  ere  the  best  quslity 
possible  considering  the  condition  end  legibility 
of  the  originsi  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  filmA  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
ginirositd  de: 

University  of  Alberta 
Edmonton 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  4t6  reproduites  aver  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetA  de  l'exemplaire  film^,  et  en 
conformit6  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmsge. 


j6es 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impree- 
sion.  or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  -^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  y  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimte  sont  fiimis  en  commenpant 
per  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmAs  en  commenpant  par  la 
premiAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  dee  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ^'Signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  y  signifie  "FIN". 


lire 


Mapa,  platee.  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  end  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  §tre 
filmte  d  dos  taux  de  rMuction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichi,  11  est  filmi  i  partir 
do  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  tie  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  Bn  bas,  en  prsnant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcossaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


3y  errata 
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3 

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V.1 


THE  ADVENTVPyCS  OF  P 
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IN  THE  I^OCKY  AOVNTAINS 


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BY  VASHIMVFON  ll^lNC 
RWNEC  EDITION— VOL- 1 

NEWYOKKaONDON  C?PVTN:VWS  .SONS  1^;^S 


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WHILE  engaged  in  writing  an  account 
of  the  grand  enterprise  of  Astoria, 
it  was  my  practice  to  seek  all  kinds 
of  oral  information  connected  with  thp  supject. 
Nowhere  did  I  pick  up  more  interestnig  par- 
ticulars than  at  the  table  of  Mr.  John  Jacob 
Astor  ;  who,  being  the  patriarch  of  the  Fur 
Trade  in  the  United  States,  was  accustomed 
to  have  at  his  board  various  persons  of  adven- 
turous turn,  some  of  whom  had  been  engaged 
in  his  own  great  undertaking  ;  others,  on  their 
own  account,  had  made  expeditions  to  the 
Rocky  Mountains  and  the  waters  of  the  Co- 
lumbia. 

Among  these  personages,  one  who  pecu- 
liarly took  my  fancy,  was  Captain  Bonneville, 
of  the  United  States  army  ;  who,  in  a  rambling 
kind  of  enterprise,  had  strangely  ingrafted  the 
trapper  and  hunter  upon  the  soldier.  As  his 
expeditions  and  adventures  will  form  the  lead- 


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IntroOuctors  tlotfce 


ing  theme  of  the  following  pages,  a  few  bio- 
graphical particulars  conceniiJig  him  may  not 
be  unacceptable. 

Captain  Bonneville  is  of  French  parentage. 
Ills  father  was  a  worthy  old  emigrant,  who 
came  to  this  country  many  years  since,  and 
took  up  his  abode  in  New  York.  He  is  repre- 
sented as  a  man  not  much  calculated  for  the 
sordid  struggle  of  a  money-nmking  world,  but 
pos.sessed  of  a  happy  temperament,  a  festivity 
of  imagination,  and  a  simplicity  of  heart,  that 
made  him  proof  against  its  rubs  and  trials. 
He  was  an  excellent  .scholar  ;  well  acquainted 
with  Latin  and  Greek,  and  fond  of  the  modern 
classics.  His  book  was  Iiis  elysium  ;  once  im- 
mersed in  the  pages  of  Voltaire,  Corneille,  or 
Racine,  or  of  his  favorite  Knglish  author, 
Shakespeare,  he  forgot  the  world  and  all  its 
concerns.  Often  woidd  he  be  seen  in  sunnner 
weather,  .seated  under  one  of  the  trees  on  the 
liattery,  or  the  portico  of  St.  Paul's  Church 
in  Broadway,  his  bald  head  uncovered,  his  liat 
lying  by  his  side,  his  eyes  riveted  to  the  page 
of  his  book,  and  his  whole  .soul  .so  engaged, 
as  to  lose  all  consciousness  of  the  passing 
throng  or  the  passing  hour. 

Captain  Bonneville,  it  will  be  found,  inherited 
some  of  his  father's  bonhomie,  and  his  excitable 
imagination ;    though    the   latter   was    some- 


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what  disciplined  in  early  years,  by  mathemati- 
cal studies.  He  was  educated  at  our  national 
Military  Academy  at  West  Point,  where  he 
acquitted  himself  very  creditably  ;  thence,  he 
entered  the  army,  in  which  he  has  ever  since 
continued. 

The  nature  of  our  military  .service  took  him 
to  the  frontier,  where,  for  a  number  of  years, 
he  was  stationed  at  various  posts  in  the  Far 
West.  Here  he  was  brought  into  frequent 
intercourse  with  Indian  traders,  mountain 
trappers,  and  other  pioneers  of  the  wilderness  ; 
and  became  so  excited  by  their  tales  of  wild 
scenes  and  wild  adventures,  and  their  accounts 
of  vast  and  magnificent  regions  as  yet  unex- 
plored, that  an  expedition  to  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains became  the  ardent  desire  of  his  heart,  and 
an  enterprise  to  explore  untrodden  tracts,  the 
leading  object  of  his  ambition. 

By  degrees  he  shajx-'d  this  vague  day-dream 
into  a  practical  reality.  Having  made  himself 
acquainted  with  all  the  requisites  for  a  trading 
enterprise  beyond  the  mountains,  he  determined 
to  undertake  it.  A  leave  of  absence,  and  a 
.sanction  of  his  expedition,  was  obtained  from 
the  major-general  in  chief,  on  his  offering  to 
combine  public  utility  with  his  private  projects, 
and  to  collect  statistical  information  for  the 
War  Department,  concerning  the  wild  countries 


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and  wild  tribes  he  might  visit  in  the  course  of 
his  journeyings. 

Nothing  now  was  wanting  to  the  darling 
project  of  the  captain,  but  the  ways  and  means. 
The  expedition  would  require  an  outfit  of 
nianj'  tliousajul  dollars  ;  a  staggering  obstacle 
to  a  soldier,  whose  capital  is  seldom  anything 
more  than  his  sword.  Full  of  that  buoyant 
hope,  however,  which  belongs  to  the  sanguine 
temperament,  he  repaired  to  New  York,  the 
great  focus  of  American  enterprise,  whtre 
there  are  always  funds  ready  for  any  scheme, 
however  chimerical  or  romantic.  Here  he  had 
the  good  foitune  to  meet  with  a  gentleman  of 
high  respe(  tability  and  influence,  who  had  been 
his  associate  in  boyhood,  and  who  cherished  a 
.sc-i«ol-fellow  friendship  for  him.  He  took  a 
general  interest  in  the  scheme  of  the  captain  ; 
intrcxluced  him  to  commercial  men  of  his  ac- 
quaintance, and  in  a  little  while  an  association 
was  formed,  and  the  necessary  funds  were 
raised  'o  carrj-  the  proposed  measure  intt)  effect. 
One  of  the  most  efficient  persons  in  this  associ- 
ation was  Mr.  Alfred  Seton,  who,  when  quite 
a  3'outli,  had  accompanied  one  of  the  expedi- 
tions sent  out  by  Mr.  Astor  to  his  commercial 
estal)li.shments  on  the  Columbia,  and  had  dis- 
tinguished hiai.self  by  his  activity  and  courage 
at  one  of  the  interior  posts.     Mr.  Seton  was 


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one  of  the  American  youths  who  were  at  Astoria 
at  the  time  of  its  surrender  to  the  British,  and 
who  manifested  such  grief  and  indignation  at 
seeing  the  flag  of  their  country  hauled  down. 
The  hope  of  seeing  that  flag  once  more  planted 
on  the  shores  of  the  Columbia,  may  have 
entered  into  his  motives  for  engaging  in  the 
present  enterprise. 

Thus  backed  and  provided.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville undertook  his  expedition  into  the  Far 
"West,  and  was  soon  beyond  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. Year  after  year  elapsed  without  his 
return.  The  term  of  his  leave  of  absence 
expired,  yet  no  report  was  made  of  him  at 
headquarters  at  Washington.  He  was  con- 
sidered virtually  dead  or  lost,  and  his  name 
was  stricken  from  the  army  list. 

It  was  in  the  autunni  of  1835,  at  the  country 
seat  of  Mr.  John  Jacob  Astor,  at  Hellgate,  that 
I  first  met  with  Captain  Bomieville.  He  was 
then  ju.st  returned  from  a  residence  of  upwards 
of  three  years  among  the  mountains,  and  was 
on  his  way  to  report  himself  at  headquarters, 
in  the  hoi)es  of  being  reinstated  in  the  .service. 
From  all  that  I  could  learn,  his  wanderings  in 
the  wilderness,  though  they  had  gratified  his 
curio.sity  and  his  love  of  adventure,  had  not 
nuich  benefited  his  fortunes.  Like  Corporal 
Trim  in  his  campaigns,  he  had  "  satisfied  the 


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sentiment,"  and  that  was  all.  In  fact,  he  was 
too  much  of  the  frank,  free-hearted  soldier, 
and  had  inherited  too  much  of  his  father's  tem- 
perament, to  make  a  scheming  trapper,  or  a 
thrifty  bargainer.  There  was  .something  in 
the  whole  appearance  of  the  captain  that  pre- 
possessed nie  in  his  favor.  He  was  of  the 
middle  size,  well  made  and  well  set ;  and  a 
military  frock  of  foreign  cut,  that  had  .seen 
service,  gave  him  a  look  of  compactness.  His 
countenance  was  frank,  open,  and  engaging  ; 
well  browned  by  the  .sun,  and  had  something 
of  a  French  expression.  He  had  a  pleasant 
black  eye,  a  higli  forehead,  and  while  he  kept 
his  hat  on,  the  look  of  a  man  in  the  jocund 
prime  of  his  days  ;  but  the  moment  his  head 
was  uncovered,  a  bald  crown  gained  h.a  credit 
for  a  few  more  years  than  he  was  really  enti- 
tled to. 

Being  extremely  curious,  at  the  time,  about 
everything  connected  with  the  Far  West,  I 
addressed  numerous  questions  to  him.  They 
drew  from  him  a  number  of  extremely  .strik- 
ing details,  which  were  given  with  mingled 
modesty  and  frankness  ;  and  in  a  gentleness 
of  manner,  and  a  soft  tone  of  voice,  contra.st- 
ing  singularly  with  the  wild  and  often  start- 
ling nature  of  his  themes.  It  was  difficult  to 
concei^■e    the    mild,    (piiet-looking    personage 


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before  you,  the  actual  hero  of  the  stirring 
scenes  related. 

In  tlie  course  of  three  or  four  months,  hap- 
pening to  be  at  the  city  of  Washington,  I 
again  catne  upon  the  captain,  who  was  at- 
tending the  slow  adjustment  of  his  affairs  witli 
the  War  Department.  I  found  him  quartered 
with  a  worthy  brother  in  arms,  a  major  in 
the  army.  Here  he  was  writing  at  a  table, 
covered  with  maps  and  papers,  in  the  centre 
of  a  large  barrack  room,  fancifully  tlecorated 
with  Indian  arms,  and  trophies,  and  war 
dresses,  and  the  skins  of  various  wild  animals, 
and  hung  round  with  pictures  of  Indian  games 
and  ceremonies,  and  .scenes  of  war  and  hunt- 
ing. In  a  word,  the  captain  was  beguiling  the 
tediousness  of  attendance  at  court,  by  an  at- 
tempt at  authorship ;  and  was  rewriting  and 
extending  his  travelling  notes,  and  making 
maps  of  the  regions  he  had  exploreil.  As  he 
sat  at  the  table,  in  this  curious  apartment,  with 
his  high  bald  head  of  somewhat  foreign  cast, 
he  reminded  me  of  some  of  those  antique  pic- 
tures of  authors  that  I  have  seen  in  old  Spanish 
volumes. 

The  result  of  his  labors  was  a  ma^sof  manu- 
.script,  which  he  subsequently  put  at  my  dis- 
posal, to  fit  it  for  publication  ami  bring  it  be- 
fore tlic  world.     I  found  it  full  of  interesting 


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fntcoOuctors  Dotice 


details  of  life  among  the  mountains,  and  of 
the  singular  castes  and  races,  both  white  men 
and  red  men,  among  whom  he  had  sojourned. 
It  bore,  too,  throughout,  the  impress  of  his 
character,  his  bonhomie,  his  kindliness  of 
spirit,  and  his  susceptibility  to  the  grand  and 
beautiful. 

That  manuscript  has  formed  the  staple  of 
the  following  work.  I  have  occasionally  in- 
terwoven facts  and  details,  gathered  from 
various  sources,  especially  from  the  conversa- 
tions and  journals  c^f  some  of  the  captain's 
contemporaries,  who  were  actors  in  the  scenes 
he  describes.  I  have  also  given  it  a  tone  and 
coloring  drawn  from  my  own  observation,  dur- 
ing an  excursion  into  the  Indian  country  be- 
yond the  bounds  of  civilization  ;  as  I  before 
observed,  however,  the  work  is  .substantially 
the  narrative  of  the  worthy  captain,  and  many 
of  its  most  graphic  pa,ssages  are  but  little 
varied  from  his  own  language. 

I  shall  conclude  this  notice  by  a  dedication 
which  he  had  made  of  his  manuscript  to  his 
hospitable  brother  in  arms,  in  whose  quarters 
I  found  him  occupied  in  his  literary  labors  ;  it 
is  a  dedication  which,  I  believe,  possesses  the 
qualities,  not  always  found  in  complimentary 
documents  of  the  kind,  of  being  sincere,  and 
being  merited. 


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TO 

JAMKS  HARVIvY  MOOK, 

MAJOR  U,   S.   A. 

WHOSE  JEAI.OUSV  OV  ITS  HONOR, 
WHOSE  ANXIETY  EOK  ITS  INTERESTS, 

AND 

WHOSE  SENSIBIIJTV  FOR  ITS  WANTS, 

HAVE  ENDEARED  Iini  TO  TIIIC  SICRVICE  AS 

Zbc  SoIOiei'3  ifiicnD ; 

AND    WHOSE    GENERAI,    AMENITV,    CONSTANT 

CHIUvRlTI.NIvSS,   DISINTKR1';STi:d  HOSI'I- 

TALITY,   AND    INWEARIi; I)  HHNlvVO- 

LENCi;,  ICNTITLIC  HIM  To  THIv 

STIEE  LOFTIER  TITIJ';  OF 

THE    FRIIvND    OF    MAN, 

THIS  WORK  IS  INSCRIBED, 
ETC. 

A'ezc  }'(';•/•,  1843. 


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Contents. 


Introductory  Notici': 

Chai'.  I. — .State  of  llit!  I'lir  Trade  of  tlie  Rocky 
Mountains  —  Atiieiicai^  ICiiterprises — (ieneral 
Ashley  ami  his  Associates— Sublette,  a  I'ain- 
ous  Leader — Yearly  Rendezvous  anionjf  the 
Mountains — Stnitagems  and  Dangers  of  the 
Trade  —  Hands  of  Trapijcrs — Indian  Banditti 
— Crows  and  Blai  vfeet— Mountaineers— Trad- 
ers of  the  Par  West—Character  and  Habits 
of  the  Traj)per I 

Chap.  II. — Departure  from  I'ort  Osaj^e — Modes 
of  Transportation — I'.ick  Horses — Wagons — 
Walker  and  Ccrrc ;  their  Characters — Buoyant 
Fcelinj^s  on  Launchiiif^  upon  the  Prairies — 
Wild  Ivciuipmcnts  of  the  Trajjpers  —  Their 
Gambols  and  Antics — Difi'erence  of  Character 
between  the  American  and  I'Vcnch  Trappers 
— Aj^ency  of  the  Kansas- (icneral  Clarke — 
White  Plume,  the  Kansas  Chief— N'ifjht  .Scene 
in  a  Trader's  Camp— CoUocjuy  between  White 
Plume  and  the  Captain — Bee-hunters — Their 
Expeditions — Their  T'eutls  with  the  Indians 
— Bargaining  Talent  of  White  Plume      .         .     15 

VOL.1,  ?.,  XV 


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XVI 


Contents 


2S 


Chai'.  III.— \Vi(U'  rrairicH—Vcf,'i'table Productions 
— Tahiiliir  Hills  Slal)s  of  Saiulstoiie — N'l'- 
braska  or  I'lalli-  Kivir— Scaiily  I'aru — HulTalo 
Skulls— Wagons  Tunii-d  into  Hoats — Herds  of 
Ihiiralo  ClilTs  Kt'SitnhliuK  Castles  —  The 
CliimiU'V  Scott's  Uliiffs — Stor\-  Connected 
with  Them  -The  nij,diorn  or  Ahsahta,  —  Its 
Nature  and  Habits — I'ilference  between  that 
and  the  "  Woolly  Sheep,"  or  Ooat  of  the 
Mountains 

Chai'.  IV.  -.\ii  .Mann  -  Crow  Indians — Their  Ap- 
pearance— Moile  ol  .\pi)roa(h— Their  Venge- 
ful blrrand— 'I'hcir  Cnriosity— Hostility  be- 
tween the  Crows  and  lil.ickfeet  —  Lovinj; 
Coiiilnct  of  the  Crows — harainie's  I'ork — I'irst 
Navinalion  of  the  Nebraska — Great  Elevation 
of  the  Conntry  — Rarity  of  the  Atnios])here — 
Its  I'llfcct  on  the  \Voo<l-work  of  WaLjons— 
lilack  Hills     Their  Wilil  and  Hroken  Scenery 

—  Indian    Do^s  --Crow  Tro])liies — Sterile  and 
Dri'ary  Country--  Hanks  of  the  Sweet  Water 

—  Ituffalo  Huiitin).; — .Adventure  of  Tom  Cain, 

the  Iiish  Cook 39 

CnAi'.  V.  MaijiMficent  Scenery — Witul  River 
Mountains  ■  Treasury  of  Waters  —  A  .Stray 
Horse  .\ii  Iiidiiin  Trail— Trout  vStreains— 
The  ('ill  at  Crni'ii  River  Valley— .\n  Alarm  — 
A  Hand  of  Trappets  I'ontenelle,  his  Infor- 
mation SufTi'rin^^s  of  Thirst -Ivncampuient 
on  the  Seeds-ke  dii — Slrate^;y  of  Rival  Trad- 
ers -  I^'ortifa'at  ion  of  the  Camp — The  P>lackfeet 

—  Manditii  of  the  Mountains — Their  Character 
and  H.il<its         .  .         .         ,         . 


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CliAP.  VI.  —  Sublette  and  his  Band  —  Robert 
Canipl)ell— Mr.  Wveth  and  a  Hand  of"  Down- 
casters  " — Yankee  Enterprise— Fitzpatrick — 
His  Adventure  with  the  lUackfeet — A  Rendez- 
vous of  IMounlainecrs — The  Rattle  of  Pierre's 
Hole  —  An  Indian  Ambuscade  —  Sublette's 
Return .        ,     68 

Chap.  VII.— Retreat  of  the  Hlackfeet— Fonte- 
nelle's  Camp  in  Danj^er — Captain  nonneville 
and  the  Black  feet  —  I'ree  Trappers  —  Their 
Character,  Habits,  Dress,  Iveiuipmcnts,  Horses 
— (lame  Fellows  of  the  Mountains — Their 
\isit  to  the  Camp — Good  I'ellowsLip  and 
Good  Cheer — A  C;irouse— A  Swagger,  a  Brawl, 
and  a  Reconciliation         .....     89 

CiiM'.  VIII.— Plans  for  the  Winter— Salmon  River 
— Abundance  of  .Salmon  West  of  the  Moun- 
tains— New  Arrangements— Cachf's — Cerre's 
Detachment  —  Movements  in  I'ontenelle's 
Camp — Departure  of  the  Blackfeet  —  Their 
Fortunes— Wind  Mountain  Streams — Buck- 
eye, the  Delaware  Hunter,  and  the  Grizzly 
Bear — Bones  of  Murdered  Trav.."iLrK— Visit  to 
Pierre's  Hole — Traces  of  the  Battle — Nez 
Perce  Indians— Arrival  at  Salmon  River         .     98 


Chap.  IX.—  Horses  Turned  Loose — Preparations 
for  Winter  Quarters  —  Hungry  Times  —  Nez 
Perces,  their  Honesty,  Piety,  PaVific  Habits, 
Religious  Ceremonies— Captain  Bonneville's 
Conversation  wiih  Them  —  Their  Love  of 
Gambling 


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Ch.vp.  X.— Blackfcet  in  the  Horse  Prairie — Search 
after  the  Hunters — DilTiculties  and  Dangers 
—A  Canl  Party  in  the  WiUlerness— The  Card 
Party  Interrupted — "  Ohl  Sledije,"  a  Losing 
Game — Visitors  to  the  Catnp — Iroquois  Hunt- 
ers— Hanging-Kared  Indians    .        .         .        .   iiS 

CnAi".  XI. — Rival  Trapping  Parties — Manceuvring 
— A  Desperate  Game — Vanderburgh  and  the 
Bhickfeet  —  Deserted  Camp  I'ires  —  A  Dark 
Defde — An  Indian  Ambush--A  I'icrce  Melee 
—  Patal  Consequences  —  IMtzpatrick  and 
Rridger  —  Trappers'  Precautions  —  Meeting 
with  the  Black  feet  —  Jlore  Fighting  — 
Anecdote  of  a  Voung  Mexican  and  an  Indian 
Girl 125 


Chap  XII. — A  Winter  Camp  in  the  Wilderness — 
Medley  of  Trappers,  Hunters,  and  Indians — 
Scarcity  of  tiame — New  Arrangements  in  the 
Camp — Detachments  Sent  to  a  Distance  — 
Carelessness  of  the  Indians  when  Kncamped 
— Sickness  among  the  Indians — Kxcellent 
Character  of  the  Nez  Perces — The  Captain's 
RfTort  as  a  Pacificator — A  Nez  Percti's  Argu- 
ment in  I'avor  of  War — Robberies  by  the 
Hlackfeet — Long-vSuflcring  of  the  Xez  Perces 
— A  Hunter's  I".lysium  among  the  Mountains 
— More  Robberies — The  Captain  Preaches  uj) 
a  Crusade — The  IvfTect  upon  his  Hearers 


Chap.    XIII. — Story    of  Kosato,    the    Renegade 

Blackfoot 152 


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Chap.  XIV. — The  Party  Enters  the  Mountain 
Gorge — A  Wild  Fastness  among  the  Hills — 
Mountain  Mutton— Peace  and  Plenty — The 
Amorous  Trapper  —  A  Piebald  Wedding  —  A 
Free  Trapper's  Wife — Her  (iala  Equipments 
— Christmas  in  the  Wilderness 


XIX 


PACiE 


158 


Chap.  XV. — A  Hunt  after  Hunters — Hungry 
Times  —  A  Voracious  Repast  —  Wintry 
Weather — Oodin's  River — vSplendid  Winter 
Scene  on  the  Great  Lava  Plain  of  Snake  River 
—  Severe  Travelling  and  Tramping  in  the 
Snow — Manoeuvres  of  a  Solitary  Indian  Horse- 
man— Encampment  on  Snake  River — Ban- 
neck  Indians  —  The  Horse  Chief  —  His 
Charmed  Life 167 

Chap.  XVI. — Misadventures  of  Matthieu  and  His 
Party — Return  to  the  Caches  at  Salmon  River 
— Battle  between  Nez  Perces  and  Blackfeet — 
Heroism  of  a  Nez  Perc^  Woman — Enrolled 
among  the  Braves 181 

Chap.  XVII. — Opening  of  the  Caches — Detach- 
ment of  Cerre  and  Ilodgkiss— Salmon  River 
Mountains — Superstition  of  an  Indian  Trap- 
per— Godin's  River — Preparations  for  Trap- 
ping— An  .\larm — .\n  Interruption — A  Rival 
Band — Phenomena  of  Snake  River  Plain — 
Vast  Clefts  and  Chasms— Ingulfed  .Streams — 
Sublime  Scenery — A  Grand  Buffalo  Hunt       .   191 

Chap.  XVIII.— Meeting  with  Ilodgkiss— Misfor- 
tunes of  the  Nez  Perces — Schemes  of  Kosato, 
the    Renegado — His   Foray    into   the   Horse 


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Contents 


Prairie — Invasion  of  Blackfeel  — Dlue  John, 
and  his  I'orlorn  Hope  —  Their  Generous 
Ivnlerprise— Their  Fate — Consternalion  and 
Despair  of  the  Village— Solemn  Obse(iuies — 
Attempt  at  Indian  Trade  —  Hudson's  Bay 
Company's  Monopoly  —  Arrant^emeiits  for 
Autumn — Hreakinj^  up  of  an  ICncampment     . 

Chai*.  XIX. — Precautions  in  Danj^erous  Defdes 
— Trappers'  Mode  of  Defense  on  a  Prairie — 
A  Mysterious  Visitor  —  Arrival  in  Green 
River  Valley — Adveniures  of  the  Detach- 
ments— The  I'orlorn  Partisan  -His  Tale  of 
Disasters 216 

Chap.  XX.  -Gatherinj;  in  Green  River  Valley— 
Visitiuj^s  and  l'eastin.i;s  of  lA'aders— Rou.i^h 
Wassailinjj  amou}.;  the  Trapi)ers — Wild  Blades 
of  the  Mountains  -Indian  Belles — Potency  of 
I{rit,dit  Beads  and  Red  Blankets— Arrival  of 
.Supplies  —Revel.  and  Ivxtravajjance — Mad 
Wolves^The  Lost  Indian         ....  226 

CitAi*.  XXI. — Schemes  of  Captain  Bonneville — 
The  Great  Salt  Lake  — Ivxpedition  to  Kxplore 
it  —  Preparations  for  a  Jouruej-  to  the 
Bi}.;horn 232 


Chai'.  XXII.  —The  Crow  Country  —  A  Crow- 
Paradise — Habits  of  the  Crows — Anecdotes 
of  Rose,  the  Renejjade  White  Man — His 
Pi}.;lits  with  the  Blackfeet — His  Klevation 
— His  Death — Arapooish,  the  Crow  Chief — 
His  Eagle— Adventure  of  Robert  Campbell 
— Honor  amoui.;  Crows     .....   239 


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;ap.  XXIII.—  Departure  from  Green  River 
Viillej — Popo  Agiu — Its  Course — The  Rivers 
into  whirh  it  Runs— Scenery  of  the  Bluffs — 
Tlie  Great  Tar  Spriiij^ — Volcanic  Tracts  in 
the  Crow  Country — Hurninjf  Mountain  of 
row<k'r  River  —  Sulphur  Sprinj;s  —  Hidden 
Tires— Colter's  Hell— Wind  River— Camp- 
bell's Party— I'itzpatrick  and  his  Trappers — 
Captain  Stewart,  an  Amateur  Traveller — 
Nathaniel  Wyeth — Anecdotes  of  his  Expedi- 
tion to  the  Par  West— Disaster  of  Campbell's 
Party— A  I'uion  of  Hands — The  Bad  Pass — 
The  Rapids — Departure  of  I'itzpatrick — Ivm- 
barkation  of  Peltries — Wyeth  and  his  Bull 
Boat — Adventures  of  Captain  Bonneville  in 
the  Bij^horn  Mountains — Adventures  in  the 
Plain— Traces  of  Indians — Travellinj^  Precau- 
tions— Dangers  of  Making  a  Smoke — The 
Rendezvous       


Chap.  XXIV.— Adventures  of  the  Party  of  Ten 
— Tlie  Balaamite  Mule— A  Dead  Point— Tlie 
Mysterious  KIks— A  N'ight  Attack— A  Retreat 
—  Travelling  rnder  an  Alarm — ^A  Joyful 
Meeting — Adventures  of  the  Other  Party — A 
Decoy  VAk — Retreat  to  an  Island — A  Savage 
Dance  of  Triumph — Arrival  at  Wind  River    , 

Chap.  XXV.— Captain  Bonneville  Sets  Out  for 
Green  River  Valley — ^Journey  up  the  Popo 
Agie — Buffaloes — The  Staring  White  Bears — 
The  Smoke— The  Wartn  .Springs — Attempt  to 
Traverse  the  Wind  River  Mountains — The 
Great  Slope— Mountain  Dells  and  Chasms — 


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Crystal  Lakes — Ascent  of  a  Snowy  Peak — 
Sublime  Prospect  —  A  Panorama — "  Les 
Dij,nies  do  Pitie,"  or  Wild  Men  of  the  Moun- 
tains   272 

Chai'.  XXVI.— a  Retrograde  jNIove— Channel  of 
a  Mountain  Torrent — Alpine  Scenery — Cas- 
cades— Beaver  Valleys — Beavers  at  Work — 
Their  Architecture — Their  Modes  of  F"elling 
Trees — Mode  of  Trapping  Beaver — Contests 
of  vSkill-  A  Beaver  "Up  to  Trap"— Arrival 
at  the  GrLcn  River  Caches       .... 

Chap.  XXVII.— Route  Towards  Wind  River—  284 
Dangerous  Neighborhood — Alarms  and  Pre- 
cautions— A  Sham  Kncampment — Apjiarition 
of  an  Indian  vSpy — Jlidnight  Move  — .V  Moun- 
tain Defile— The  Wind  River  Valley— Track- 
ing a  Part}' — Deserted  Camj)s — Symptoms  of 
Crows — Meeting  of  Comrades — A  Trapper 
Entrapped — Crow  Pleasantry — Crow  Spies — 
A  Decampment  —  Return  to  Green  River 
Valley — Meeting  with  I'itzpatrick's  Party — 
Their  Adventures  among  the  Crows — Ortho- 
dox Crows 294 

Chap.  XXVIII.— A  Region  of  Natural  Curiosities 
—The  Plain  of  White  Clay— Hot  Springs— 
The  Beer  .Spring— Departure  to  Seek  the  Free 
Trappers — Plaiti  of  Portneuf— Lava — Chasms 
and  Gullies— Banneck  Indians — Their  Hunt 
of  the  Buffalo — Hunters'  Feast  —  Trencher 
Heroes — Bullying  of  an  Absent  l^oe — The 
Damp  Comrade — The  Indian  Spy — Meeting 
with   Hodgkiss — His   Adventures — Poordevil 


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IFIlustratlons. 


PAGE 
\,'}      INDIAN  WARRIOR   ATTACKED  I3V  GRIZZLY  BRARS 

^  l''ro>itispicce 

Redrawn  by  W.  J.  Wilson  from  an  old  wood-cut. 

FORT  VANCOUVICR,  AUOUT   1833       ....  4 

Based   on    a   .sketch    made    during    a    Co%-ernment 
Survey. 

AN  INDIAN  AGENCY  ON  THIC   MISSOURI  RIVER       .         22 

I'"rom  an  old  eiiRraving. 

VIEW    NEAR     THE     NORTH     FORK    OF    THE    NE- 
BRASKA RIVER 30 

Based    on    a    skctcli    made   during   a   Ciovernnient 
Survey. 

HEAD  OF  WHITE  GOAT  (WOOIJA*  SIIi:i;i')         .  .        40 

From  a  drawing  by  J.  Carter  Heard. 

THE  WIND  RIVER  MOUNTAINS         ....        56 
Steel  enKravini^. 


THE  HUNTING   I'RAIKIIv  OF  THIC  I'lCND-ORIICM.FS 

INDIANS 122 

Based    iiu    a    sketch   made   during    a    Government 
burvey. 

XXV 


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INDIANS  CROSSING  A  RIVER  TO  A  TRADING  POST      1 72 

From  an  old  lithograph. 


£. 


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WAR  D\NCE  OF  THE  BANNECK  INDIANS 

From  an  old  engraving. 

HEROISM  OF  A  WOMAN  OF  THE  NEZ  PERCYS 

From  a  drawing  by  F.  S.  Church. 

The  edge  OF  THE  LAVA  BEDS 

Redrawn  from  a  photograph. 

THE  ARTEMESIA  * 


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I         THE  PUNCH  BOWI,  * 


254 


310 


314 


'^i  "AFTER   SKVI:RAI,    days   TR.WEI.    inc   CAME   TO 
i      A)  A  PART  OF  THE   RIVER  WHICH   FII.I.ED   HIM 

.    fX/j  WITH  ASTONISHMENT  AND  ADMIRATION  "      .      328 

V    ~jtZ'  From  a  drawing  bv  Heiuj     indham. 

kh  ■ 

•  From  oriRinal  photograph.s,  by  permi-ssion  of  The  Photo- 
chrom  Company,  Detroit,  Michigan, 


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THE    ADVENTURES 

OF 

CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 


Chapter  II. 

State  of  the  Fur  Trade  of  the  Rocky  Mountains — 
American  Eiiteri)riscs — General  Ashley  and  his  As- 
liociates— Sublette,  a  I'anious  Leader — Yearly  Ren- 
dezvous ainon}.j  the  Mountains — Stratagems  and 
Dangers  of  the  Trade — Hands  of  Trappers — Indian 
Banditti— Crows  and  lUackfeet — Mountaineers — 
Traders  of  the  I'ar  West — Character  and  Habits  of 
the  Trapper. 

IN  a  recent  work  we  have  given  an  account 
of  the  gratul  enterprise  of  Mr.  John  Jacob 
Astor,  to  establish  an  American  einpt)riiim 
for  the  fur  trade  at  llie  mouth  of  theCohnnbia, 
or  Oregon  River  ;  of  the  faiUire  of  that  enter- 
pri.se  through  the  capture  of  Astoria  by   the 

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2  JQoiincvlKc'd  BOvcntures 

British,  in  1H14  ,  and  of  the  way  in  which  tl  e 
control  of  the  trade  of  the  Columbia  and  its 
depeiulcncies  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  North- 
west Company.  We  liave  stated,  likewise,  the 
unfortunate  supineness  of  the  American  gov- 
ernment, in  nej,decting  the  application  of  Mr. 
Astor  for  the  i)n)tection  of  the  American  flag, 
and  a  small  military  force,  to  enable  him  to 
reinstate  him.self  in  the  possession  of  Astoria 
at  the  return  of  peace  ;  when  the  post  was 
^jL>^  formally  j^iveii  up  by  the  Ikitish  government, 
kUv)  .  though  .still  occujMed  by  the  Northwest  Com- 
pany. By  that  supineness  the  sovereignty  of 
the  country  has  been  virtually  lost  to  the  United 
States  ;  and  it  will  cost  both  governments  much 
trouble  and  difficidty  to  .settle  matters  on  that 
just  and  rightful  footing,  on  which  they  would 
readily  have  been  placed,  had  the  proposition 
of  Mr.  Aslor  been  attended  to.  We  shall  now 
state  a  few  ])articulars  of  subsequent  events,  so 
as  to  le.'id  the  reader  up  to  the  period  of  which 
we  are  about  to  treat,  and  to  prepare  him  for 
the  circumslMiices  of  our  narrative. 

In  conse(|ueMce  of  the  apathy  and  neglect 
of  the  American  government,  Mr.  Astor  aban- 
dimed  all  thoughts  of  regaining  Astoria,  and 
I'.iade  no  fiullur  .attempt  to  extend  his  enter- 
prises beyond  tlie  Kocky  Mountains  ;  and  the 
Northwest    Company    considered    themselves 


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jf ur  ^ra^e  of  tbc  IRoch^  A^ountains 


the  lords  of  the  country.  They  did  not  long 
enjoy  unmolested  the  sway  which  they  had 
somewhat  surreptitiously  attained.  A  fierce 
competition  ensued  between  them  and  their 
old  rivals,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  ;  which 
was  carried  on  at  great  cost  and  sacrifice,  and 
occasionally  with  the  loss  of  life.  It  ended  in 
the  ruin  of  most  of  the  partners  of  the  North- 
west Company  ;  and  the  merging  of  the  relics 
of  tliat  establishment,  in  1821,  in  the  rival  as- 
sociation. From  that  time,  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Companj'  enjoj'ed  a  monopoly  of  the  Indian 
trade  from  the  coast  of  the  Pacific  to  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  for  a  considerable  ex- 
tent north  and  south.  They  removed  their 
emporium  from  Astoria  to  Fort  Vancouver,  a 
.strong  post  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Columljia 
River,  about  sixty  miles  from  its  mouth ; 
whence  they  furnished  their  interior  posts, 
and  .sent  forth  their  brigades  of  trappers. 

The  Rocky  Mountains  formed  a  vast  barrier 
between  them  and  the  United  States,  and  their 
stern  and  awful  defiles,  their  rugged  valleys, 
and  the  great  western  plains  watered  by  their 
rivers,  remained  almost  a  terra  iiuvi^niia  to  the 
American  trapper.  The  difiiculties  experienced 
in  1808,  by  Mr.  Henry  of  the  Missouri  Com- 
pany, the  first  American  who  trapped  upon  the 
head-waters  of  the  Columbia  ;  and  the  fright- 


"i 


■H.,1^. 


"«>•  ""v.' 


A 


t 


I    i 


ll 


h^llj'i  M'l '»]tii  mimi 


vfomfm 


// 


M 


:5 


JBonncville's  Bdvcnturcd 


fill  hardships  sustained  by  Wilson  P.  Hunt, 
Ramsay  Crooks,  Robert  Stuart,  and  other  in- 
trepid Astorians,  in  their  ill-fated  expeditions 
across  the  mountains,  appeared  for  a  time  to 
check  all  further  enterprise  in  that  direction. 
The  American  traders  contented  themselves 
with  following  up  the  head  brandies  of  the 
Missouri,  the  Yellowstone,  and  other  rivers 
and  streams  on  the  Atlantic  side  of  the  moun- 
tains, but  forebore  to  attempt  those  great  snow- 
crowned  sierras. 

One  of  the  first  to  revive  these  tramontane 
expeditions  was  General  Ashley,  of  Missouri, 
a  man  whose  courage  and  achievements  in  the 
prosecution  of  his  enterprises,  have  rendered 
him  famous  in  the  Far  West.  In  conjunction 
with  Mr.  Henry,  already  mentioned,  he  estab- 
lished a  post  on  the  banks  of  the  Yellowstone 
River,  in  1822,  and  in  the  following  year 
pushed  a  resolute  band  of  trappers  across  the 
mcmntains  to  the  banks  of  the  Green  River  or 
Colorado  of  the  West,  often  known  by  the 
Indian  name  of  the  Seeds-ke-dee  Agie.*  This 
attempt  was  followed  up  and  sustained  by 
others,  until  in  1825  a  footing  was  secured,  and 
a  complete  system  of  trapping  organized  be- 
yond the  mountains. 

*  /.  c,  the  Prairie  Hen  River.     Agie  in  the  Crow 
language  signifies  river. 


t.^  m 


">  r  It: 


-^ -♦-i*«rji»^ 


iSae 


c 


'1^ 


lu^rt  I  '(iJicomicr,  about  iSjr^. 

/uiui/  ,•>!  ii  skdi  h  iiutiie  (/mini;  <i  Cmii)  nDutit  Sur-'i'v. 


I) 


H 


I' 


Crow 


■asH 


M 


'^"^m^Bmm^mi^tiii.difmaa!^ 


If 


'  :/i- 


W-*^^^  r    ~-  *i*--^»'  ^  A-  1 


-^«     ■ 


,.*>'  /       T  ..'i. 


I 


0 


t 

I 

''  '\ 

Hi' 


If 


I 
.'3 


I 


ll 

HI 


f'-C? 


^1 

6>7' 


w. 


4 


1 


I     !' 


s 


/ 
^1^ 


>■ 


n; 


• 


<:"^/rNi':' 


M) 


pioneers  of  tbc  jFur  Cradc 


It  is  difficult  to  do  justice  to  the  courage, 
fortitude,  and  perseverance  of  the  pioneers  of 
the  fur  trade,  who  conducted  these  early  expe- 
ditions, and  first  broke  their  way  through  a 
wilderness  where  everything  was  calculated  to 
deter  av  \  dismay  them.  They  had  to  traverse 
the  most  dreary  and  desolate  mountains,  and 
barren  and  trackless  wastes,  uninhabited  by 
man,  or  occasionally  infested  by  predatory  and 
cruel  savages.  The\-  knew  nothing  of  the 
country  beyond  the  verge  of  their  horizon,  and 
had  to  gather  information  as  they  wandered. 
They  beheld  volcanic  plains  .stretching  around 
them,  and  ranges  of  mountains  piled  up  to  the 
clouds,  and  glistening  with  eternal  frost  ;  but 
knew  nothing  of  their  defiles,  nor  how  they 
were  to  be  penetrated  or  traversed.  They 
launched  themselves  in  frail  canoes  on  rivers, 
without  knowing  whither  their  swift  currents 
would  carry  them,  or  what  rocks,  and  shoals, 
and  rapids  they  might  encounter  in  their 
course.  They  had  to  be  continuallj'  on  the 
alert,  too,  against  the  mountain  tribes,  who  be- 
set every  defde,  laid  ambuscades  in  their  path, 
or  attacked  them  in  their  night  encampments  ; 
so  that,  of  the  hardy  bands  of  trappers  that 
first  entered  into  these  regions,  three  fifths  are 
said  to  have  fallen  by  the  hands  of  savage  foes. 

In  this  wild  and  warlike  school  a  number  of 


Iko 


ill 


^JEJft*ti*»^^X— *•■ 


''\ 


'^^. 


/ 


m 


\^ 


^'<:^^Cy^ 


6  JOonncvillc'a  BDventurcs 

leaders  have  sprung  up,  originally  in  the  em- 
ploy, subsequently  partners  of  Ashley  ;  among 
these  we  may  mention  vSmilh,  Fitzjiatrick, 
Britlger,  Robert  Campbell,  and  William  Sub- 
lette ;  whose  adventures  and  exploits  partake 
of  the  wildest  spirit  of  romance.  The  associa- 
tion commenced  by  General  Ashley  underwent 
various  modifications.  That  gentleman  having 
acquired  sufficient  fortune,  sold  out  his  interest 
and  retired  ;  and  the  leading  spirit  that  suc- 
ceeded him  was  Captain  William  Sublette  ;  a 
man  worthy  of  note,  as  his  name  has  Ijecome 
renowned  in  frontier  story.  He  is  a  native  of 
Kentucky,  and  of  game  descent  ;  his  maternal 
grandfather,  Colonel  Wheatley,  a  companion 
of  Boon,  having  been  one  of  the  pioneers  of 
the  West,  celebrated  in  Indian  warfare,  and 
killed  in  one  of  the  contests  of  the  "  Bloody 
Ground."  We  shall  frequently  have  occasion 
to  speak  of  this  vSublette.  and  always  to  the 
credit  of  his  game  qualities.  In  1S30,  the  asso- 
ciation took  the  name  of  the  Rocky  Mountain 
Fur  Conqiany,  of  which  Capt;iin  vSublette  and 
Robert  Canqibell  were  prominent  members, 

In  the  meantime,  the  success  of  this  com- 
pany attracted  the  attention  and  excited  the 
emulation  of  tlie  American  Fur  Comi)any,  and 
brf)ught  them  once  more  into  the  fieUl  of  their 
ancient  enterprise.      Mr.  Astor,  the  founder  of 


H 


■4 


^:^' 


'J' 


4EJV 


()- 


-■•rT'^^^^^^r 


( 


_JI?:r: 


Dangcra  of  tbc  CraDe  7  j 

the  association,  had  retired  from  busy  life,  and 
the  concerns  of  the  company  were  ably  man- 
aged by  Mr.  Ramsay  Crooks,  of  Snake  River 
renown,  who  still  officiated  as  its  president.  A 
competition  immediately  ensued  between  the 
two  companies,  for  the  trade  with  the  moun- 
tain tribes,  and  the  trapping  of  the  head- 
waters of  the  Columbia,  and  the  other  great 
tributaries  of  the  Pacific.  Beside  the  regular 
operations  of  these  formidable  rivals,  there  have 
been  from  time  to  time  desultory  enterprises, 
or  rather  experiments,  of  minor  as.sociations, 
or  of  adventunjus  individuals,  besides  roving 
bands  of  independent  trappers,  who  either 
hunt  for  themselves,  or  engage  for  a  single 
season,  in  the  service  of  one  or  other  of  the 
main  companies. 

The  consecpience  is,  that  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains and  the  iillerior  regions,  from  the  Russian 
possessions  in  the  north,  down  to  the  Spanish 
settlements  of  California,  have  been  traversed 
and  ransacked  in  every  direction  bj-  bands  of 
hunters  and  Indian  traders  ;  so  that  there  is 
scarcely  a  mountain  pass,  or  defile,  that  is  not 
known  and  threaded  in  their  restless  migra- 
tions, nor  a  nameless  stream  that  is  not  haunted 
by  the  lonely  trapj)er. 

The  American  fur  cotnpanies  keep  no  estab- 
lished post  beyond  the  mountains.   ICverything 


rmritiii — '" 


'ft'M»- 


■^..^r,—..^-^ 


i\ 


!■;!  1 


H 


'!' 


^   f:i 


|i  1- 


"«iii(M>iii 


v^- 


:fiJoiincviUc'5  BC>v>cntures 


there  is  regulated  hy  resident  partners  ;  that  is 
to  say,  partners  who  reside  in  the  tramontane 
countrj-,  hut  who  move  ahout  from  place  to 
j)lace,  either  with  Indian  tribes,  whose  traffic 
they  wish  to  monopolize,  or  with  main  bodies 
of  their  own  men,  whom  they  employ  in  trad- 
ing and  trapping.  In  the  meantime,  they  de- 
tach bands,  or  "  brigades  "  as  they  are  termed, 
of  trappers  in  various  directions,  assigning  to 
each  a  portion  of  country  as  a  hunting,  or 
trapping  ground.  In  the  months  of  June  or 
July,  when  there  is  an  interval  between  the 
huntirig  seasons,  a  general  rendezvous  is  held, 
at  some  designated  place  in  the  mountains, 
where  the  affairs  of  the  past  year  are  settled  by 
the  resident  partners,  and  the  plans  for  the 
following  year  arranged. 

To  this  rendezvous  repair  the  various  brig- 
ades of  trappers  from  their  v.'idely  separated 
hunting  grounds,  bringing  in  the  product  of 
their  year's  campaign.  Hither  also  repair  the 
Indian  tribes  accustomed  to  traffic  their  peltries 
with  the  company.  Bands  of  free  trappers 
re.sor';  hither  also,  to  sell  the  furs  they  have 
collected  ;  or  to  engage  their  services  for  the 
next  hunting  season. 

To  this  rendezvous  the  companj'  .sends  annu- 
ally a  convoy  of  supplies  from  its  establisment 
(m  the  Atlantic  frontier,  under  the  guidance  of 


^ 


■I 


t 


^ 


1: 


<S^S 


II- 


Ucarlg  1RcnOc3VOUS 


some  experienced  partner  or  officer.  On  the 
arrival  of  this  convoy,  the  resident  partner  at 
the  rendezvous  depends,  to  set  all  his  next 
year's  machinery  in  motion. 

Now  as  the  rival  companies  keep  a  vigilant 
eye  upon  each  otlier,  and  are  anxious  to  dis- 
cover each  otlier' s  plans  and  movements,  the\- 
generally  contrive  to  hold  their  annual  as.sem- 
blages  at  no  great  distance  apart.  An  eager 
competition  exists  also  between  their  respec- 
tive convoys  of  supplies,  which  shall  first  reach 
its  place  of  rende/.vous.  For  this  purpose,  they 
set  off  with  the  first  appearance  of  grass  on  the 
Atlantic  frontier,  and  push  with  all  diligence 
for  the  mountains.  The  company  that  can  first 
open  its  tempting  supplies  of  coffee,  tobacco, 
ammunition,  .scarlet  cloth,  blankets,  bright 
shawls,  and  glittering  trinkets,  has  the  great- 
est chance  to  get  all  the  peltries  and  furs  of  the 
Indians  and  free  trappers,  and  to  engage  their 
services  for  the  next  .seasoti.  It  is  al)le,  also, 
to  fit  out  and  despatch,  its  own  trappers  the 
.soonest,  so  as  to  get  the  start  of  its  competitors, 
and  to  have  the  first  dash  into  the  hunting  and 
trapping  grounds. 

A  new  species  of  .strategy  has  .spnuig  out  of 
this  hunting  and  trapping  comjietition.  The 
con.stant  study  of  the  rival  bands  is  to  forestall 
and  outwit  each  other  ;  to  .supplant  each  other 


►-.o... 


■CU/' 


\  ' 


A 


V 


k 


U 


'*V- 


"Xii^aBS'f^' 


i-  u^-^ 


If. 


WF^'^mm 


r.c 


"''<'^V,'  /^-  * 


I 


'', 


I  I 


m 


'^<ji 


■'-y^yr? 


•'""**^2C*'  ' 


JBonncvillc'a  aPvciUure»5 


in  the  good-will  and  custom  of  tlie  Indian  tribes  ; 
to  cross  each  other's  plans  ;  to  mislead  each 
other  as  to  routes  ;  in  a  word,  next  to  his  own 
advantage,  the  study  of  the  Indian  trader  is 
the  disadvantage  of  his  competitor. 

The  influx  of  this  wandering  trade  has  had 
its  effects  on  the  habits  of  the  mountain  tribes. 
They  have  found  the  trapping  of  the  beaver 
their  most  profitable  species  of  hunting  ;  and 
the  traffic  with  the  white  man  has  opened  to 
them  .sources  of  luxury  of  which  they  previously 
had  no  idea.  The  introduction  of  fire-arms 
has  rendered  them  more  successful  hunters, 
but  at  the  same  time  more  formidable  foes  ; 
some  of  them,  incorrigibly  .savage  and  warlike 
in  their  nature,  have  found  the  expeditions  of 
the  fur  traders  grar.d  ol)jects  of  profitable  ad- 
venture. To  waylay  and  harass  a  band  of 
trajipers  with  their  pack-horses,  when  eniL. 
rassed  in  the  rugged  defiles  of  the  mountains, 
has  become  as  favorite  an  exjiloil  with  these 
Indians  as  the  plunder  of  a  caravan  to  the  Arab 
of  the  desert.  The  Crows  and  Black  feet,  who  I) 
were  such  terrors  in  the  ])ath  of  the  early  ad- 
venturers to  Astoria,  .still  continue  their  preda- 
tory habits,  but  seem  to  have  brought  them  to 
greater  system.  They  know  the  routes  and 
resorts  of  the  trappers  ;  where  to  waylay  them 
on  their  journeys;  where  to  find  them  in  the 


\-. 


the     W 


^^ 


m 


# 


■'^*^' 


,    /    J,        -■:.  -  I    , 


M 


^■>/r^,^  f^r^iT^^^^^^,  ffni 


■'A 


m 


Cbc  "  flbountatnccra  " 


:i 


hunting  seasons,  and  where  to  hover  about 
them  in  winter  quarters.  Tlie  life  of  a  tnpper, 
therefore,  is  a  perpetual  state  militant,  and  he 
nuist  sleep  with  his  weapons  in  his  hands. 

A  new  order  of  trai)pers  and  traders,  also, 
has  grown  out  of  this  system  of  things. 
In  the  old  times  of  the  great  Northwest  Com- 
pany, when  the  trade  in  furs  was  pursued 
chiefly  about  the  lakes  and  rivers,  the  expedi- 
tions were  carried  on  in  batteaux  and  canoes. 
The  voyai^furs  or  boatmen  were  the  rank  and 
fde  in  the  service  of  the  trader,  and  even  the 
hardy  "  men  of  the  norlh,"  those  great  rufilers 
and  game  birds,  were  fain  to  be  paddled  from 
point  to  point  of  their  migrations. 

A  totally  different  class  has  now  sprung  up  ; 
— the  "Mountaineers,"  the  traders  and  trajv 
pcrs  that  scale  the  »ast  mountain  chains,  and 
pursue  their  hazardous  vocations  amidst  their 
wild  recesses.  They  move  fn)m  place  to  place 
on  horseback.  The  ecpiestrian  exercises,  there- 
fore, in  which  they  are  engaged,  the  nature  of 
the  countries  they  traverse,  vast  plains  and 
numntains,  pure  and  exhilarating  in  atmos- 
pheric (jualities,  seem  to  make  them  jdiysically 
and  mentally  a  more  lively  and  mercurial  race 
than  the  fur  traders  antl  trappers  t)f  former 
days,  the  self-vaunting  "  men  of  the  north." 
A  man  who  bestrides  a  horse,  nuist  be  essen- 


■^ 


I 


}  i 

fi 

I! 
1 


8 


H, 


■-•-  vi 


■fi 


\'  I 


I 


"V" 


•^'•W'" 


'¥.A...^. 


-\^ 


"-"-•^'"^-jtoi 


JiJ^ - 


JDoimcvlllc'i^  UCtvcntmce 


tially  (lifTcri'iit  finiii  ;i  man  who  cowers  iii  a 
canoe.  We  fitid  them,  accordingly,  hardy, 
hthe,  vijjforoMs,  and  active  ;  extra vai^jant  in 
word,  in  tliought,  and  deed  ;  lieedless  ot"  hard- 
sliij)  ;  d.'iring  of  <l;inger;  jjrodigal  of  the  pres- 
ent, and  thoughtless  of  the  future. 

A  difiercMice  is  to  he  i)erceived  even  between 
these  mountain  liiuiters  and  those  of  the  lower 
regions  along  the  waters  of  the  Missouri.  The 
latter,  generally  iMench  Creoles,  live  comfort- 
ably in  cabins  and  log-huts,  well  sheltered  from 
the  inclem(.'n("ies  of  the  seasons.  They  are 
within  the  reai'h  of  fretjuent  supplies  from  the 
settlements;  their  lile  is  comparatively  free 
N^  from  danger,  and  from  most  of  the  vicissitudes 
of  the  upper  wildirness.  The  consequence  is, 
that  thev  are  less  hardy,  self-dependent,  and 
g.'une-spirited  than  the  mountaineer.  If  the 
latter  by  ch.ance  come  among  them  on  his  way 
to  and  from  the  settlements,  he  is  like  a  game- 
cock among  the  common  roo.stersof  the  poultry- 
yard.  Accustomed  to  live  in  tents,  or  to  bivouac 
in  the  open  air,  he  (les])ises  the  comforts  and  is 
imi)atient  of  the  confinement  of  the  log-house 
If  his  nie;d  is  not  ready  in  season,  he  takes  hi.s 
rifle,  hies  to  the  forest  or  prairie,  shoots  Jiis 
own  game,  lights  his  fire,  and  cooks  his  repast. 
With  his  horse  and  his  rifle,  he  is  independent 
of  the  world,  and  spurns  at  all  its  re.straints. 


WM 


I     .i^' 


LC 

is 


w 


,v^ 


^-^.*^f7^  s^y^Y^:\  J:^:'^-^ 


Civ.iactcr  of  tbc  Crappcr 


13 


The  very  superintendents  at  the  lower  posts 
will  not  pnt  him  to  mess  with  thecommon  men, 
the  hirelings  of  the  establishment,  but  treat 
him  as  something  superior. 

There  is,  perhaps,  no  class  of  men  on  the  face 
of  the  earth,  says  Captain  Bonneville,  who  lead 
a  life  of  more  continued  exertion,  peril,  and 
excitement,  and  who  are  more  enamoured  of 
their  occupations,  than  the  free  trappers  of  the 
West.  No  toil,  no  danger,  no  privation  can 
turn  the  trapper  from  his  pursuit.  His  pas- 
sionate excitement  at  times  resembles  a  mania. 
In  vain  may  the  most  vigilant  and  cruel  .savages 
beset  his  path  ;  in  vain  may  rocks,  and  preci- 
pices, and  wintry  torrents  oppose  his  progre.ss  ; 
but  let  a  single  track  of  beaver  meet  his  eye, 
and  he  forgets  all  dangers  and  defies  all  diffi- 
culties. At  times  he  may  be  .seen  with  his 
traps  on  hi,-;  shoulder,  buffeting  his  way  across 
rapid  streams,  amidst  floating  blocks  of  ice : 
'^^1  at  other  times,  he  is  to  be  found  with  his  traps 
_A-^  swung  on  his  back  clambering  the  most  rug- 
■"'  ged  mountains,  .scaling  or  descending  the  most 
frightful  pre'Mpices,  .searching,  by  routes  inac- 
cessible to  the  horse,  and  never  before  trodden 
by  white  man,  for  springs  and  lakes  unknown 
to  his  comrades,  and  where  he  may  meet  with 
his  favorite  game.  Such  is  the  mountaineer, 
the  hardy  trapper  of  the  West ;  and  such,  as 


D 


^' 


;'1 


<i^^^ 


1\ 


I 


I1 


^c  t.-f 


..-r'TK  f-,r^*^"'v<<"^.<:;   /■  "^\ 


M 


f  "  \J  \^'  Vl^    VJir-  fctt  NU-.-'«^taiir=--^i.-- 


:]ISonneviIlc'd  BDvcnturcd 


we  have  slightly  sketched  it,  is  the  wild,  Robin 
,  ^  ,  .     Hood   kind   of  life,  with   all   its  strange  and 

^^^,lc    motley  populace,  now   existing   in    full   vigor 

(■'j^  i<         among  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

Having  thus  given  the  reader  some  idea  of 
the  actual  state  of  the  fur  trade  in  the  interior 
of  our  vast  continent,  and  made  him  acquainted 
with  the  wild  chivalry  of  the  mountains,  we 
will  no  longer  delay  the  introduction  of  Captain 
Bonneville  and  his  band  into  this  field  of  their 
enterprise,  but  launch  them  at  once  upor  the 
perilous  plains  of  the  Far  West. 


'Isi^ 


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fe? 


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Cbaptcr  1I1F. 

Departure  from  Fort  Osajre — Modes  of  Transportation 
— Pack-horses — Wa.yons — Walker  aiul  Ccrrd  ;  their 
Characters — Buoyant  T'eelin^s  on  Launching  upon 
the  Prairies — Wihl  Kquipnients  of  'he  Trajjpers- 
Their  Gam  hols  and  Antics — Difference  of  Character 
Between  the  American  and  French  Trappers — 
Agency  of  the  Kansas — General  Clarke — White 
Plume,  the  Kansas  Chief— Night  Sce;ie  in  Trader's 
Camp — Colloquy  between  White  Plume  and  the 
Captain — Bee  Hunters — Their  Expeditions — Their 
Feuds  with  the  Indians — Bargaining  Talent  of 
White  Plume. 

IT  was  on  the  first  of  May,  1832,  that  Captain 
Bonneville  took  his  departure  from  the 
frontier  post  of  Fort  Osage,  on  the  Mis- 
sonri.  He  had  enlisted  a  party  of  one  lunulred 
and  ten  men,  most  of  whom  had  been  in  the 
Indian  country,  and  some  of  whom  were  ex- 
perienced hunters  and  trappers.  Fort  Osacje, 
and  other  places  on  the  borders  of  the  western 
wilderness,  abound  with  characters  of  the 
kind,  ready  for  any  expedition. 


<=^iZ^<;s^afl^3S?'-----rffW^- --. 


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:n3onncvtllc'd  BDvcnturcd 


The  ordinary  mode  of  transportation  in  these 
great  inhind  cxpechtionsof  the  fur  traders  is  on 
mules  and  pack-horses  ;  but  Captain  Bomieville 
sul)stituled  wagons.  Though  he  was  to  travel 
through  a  trackless  wilderness,  yet  tlie  greater 
part  of  his  route  would  lie  across  t)pen  plains, 
destitute  of  forests,  and  where  wheel  carriages 
can  pass  in  every  direction.  The  chief  diffi- 
culty occurs  in  passing  the  deep  ravines  cut 
through  the  prairies  bj-  streams  and  winter 
torrents.  Here  it  is  often  necessary  to  dig  a 
road  down  the  banks,  and  to  make  bridges  lor 
the  wagons. 

In  transporting  his  baggage  in  vehicles  of 
this  kind,  Captain  Bomieville  thought  he  would 
.save  the  great  delay  caused  every  morning  by 
packing  the  horses,  and  the  labor  of  unpack- 
ing in  the  evening.  Fewer  horses  also  winild 
be  recjuired,  and  le.ss  risk  incurred  of  their 
wandering  away,  or  being  frightened  or  carried 
off  by  the  Indians.  The  wagons,  al.so,  would 
be  more  easily  defended,  and  might  form  a 
kind  of  fortification  in  case  of  attack  in  the 
open  prairies.  A  train  of  twenty  wagons, 
drawn  by  oxen,  or  by  four  mules  or  horses 
each,  and  laden  with  merchandi.se,  ammunition, 
and  ])rovisioiis,  were  di.sposed  in  two  coUnnns 
in  the  centre  of  the  party,  which  was  ecpially 
divided  into  a  van  and  a  rear-guard.     As  sub- 


^?^. 


H 


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XUalhcr  aiiD  Ccrrc 


17 


leaders  or  lieutenants  in  his  expedition,  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  had  made  choice  of  Mr.  I.  R. 
Walker  and  Mr.  M.  S.  Cerre.  The  former  was 
a  native  of  Tennessee,  about  six  feet  high, 
strong  built,  dark  complexioned,  brave  in 
spirit,  though  mild  in  maimers.  He  had  re- 
sided for  many  years  in  Missouri,  on  the  fron- 
tier ;  had  been  among  the  earliest  adventurers 
to  Santa  Ke,  where  he  went  to  trap  beaver, 
and  was  taken  by  the  Spaniards.  Being  liber- 
ated, lie  engaged  with  the  Spaniards  and  Sioux 
Indians  in  a  war  against  the  Pawnees  ;  then 
returned  to  Missouri,  and  had  acted  by  turns 
as  .sheriff,  trader,  trapper,  until  he  was  enlisted 
as  a  leader  by  Captain  Bonneville. 

Cerre,  his  other  leader,  had  likewise  been  in 
expeditions  to  Santa  Fe,  in  which  he  had 
endured  much  hard.ship.  He  was  of  the  mid- 
dle size,  light  complexioned,  and  though  but 
about  twenty-five  years  of  age,  was  con.sidered 
an  experienced  Indian  trader.  It  was  a  great 
object  with  Captain  Bonneville  to  get  to  the 
mountains  before  the  .summer  heats  and  sum- 
mer flies  .should  render  the  travelling  across 
the  prairies  distressing  ;  and  before  the  annual 
assemblages  of  people  connected  with  the  fur 
trade,  should  have  broken  up,  and  dispersed  to 
the  hunting  grounds. 

The  two  rival  associations  already  mentioned, 

VOL,  I.— 3 


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:tSonnev»U[e'a  BOvcnturcs 


the  American  Fur  Company  and  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Fur  Company,  had  their  several 
places  of  rendezvous  for  the  present  year  at  no 
great  distance  apart,  in  Pierre's  Hole,  a  deep 
valley  in  the  heart  of  the  mountains,  and 
thither  Captain  Bonneville  intended  to  shape 
his  course. 

It  is  not  easy  to  do  justice  to  the  exulting 
feelings  of  the  worthy  captain,  at  finding  him- 
self at  the  licad  of  a  stout  band  of  hunters, 
trappers,  a.m\  woodmen  ;  fairly  launched  on 
the  broad  in  airies,  with  his  face  to  the  bound- 
less \\''cst.  Tlie  tamest  iidiabitant  of  cities, 
the  veriest  spoiled  child  of  civilization,  feels 
his  heart  dilate  and  his  pulse  beat  high,  on 
finding  himself  on  horseback  in  the  glorious 
wilderness  ;  what  then  must  be  the  excitement 
of  one  whose  imagi'iation  had  been  stimulated 
b}'  a  resid^!!ce  ■  ■  the  frontier,  and  to  whom 
the  wildfcuis  ss  w.i.«!  a  region  of  romance  ! 

His  hardy  followe>  i  partook  of  his  excite- 
ment. Most  ()*"  them  had  already  experienced 
the  wild  freedom  of  sava;;;;  life,  and  looked 
forward  to  a  renewal  oi  past  scenes  of  adven- 
ture and  exploit.  Their  very  appearance  and 
equipment  exhibited  a  piebald  mixture,  half 
civilized  and  half  savage.  Many  of  them 
looked  more  like  Indians  than  white  men,  in 
their  garbs  and  accoutrements,  and  their  very 


U 


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tt 


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Xauncbind  ®ut  on  tbe  pcaiciee 


horses  were  caparisoned  in  barbaric  style,  with 
fantastic  trappings.  The  outset  of  a  band  of 
adventurers  in  one  of  these  expeditions  is  al- 
ways animated  and  joyous.  The  welkin  rang 
with  their  shouts  and  yelps,  after  the  maimer 
of  the  savages  ;  and  with  boi.sterous  jokes  and 
light-hearted  laughter.  As  they  passed  the 
straggling  hamlets  and  solitarj'  cabins  that 
fringe  the  skirts  of  the  frontier,  they  would 
startle  their  inmates  by  Indian  yells  and  war- 
whoops,  or  regale  them  with  grotesque  feats  of 
horsemanship,  well  suited  to  their  half-savage 
appearance.  Most  of  these  abodes  were  in- 
habited l)y  men  who  had  themselves  been  in 
similar  expeditions  ;  they  welcomed  the  trav- 
ellers, therefore,  as  brother  trappers,  treated 
them  with  a  hunter's  hospitality,  and  cheered 
them  with  an  honest  God  si)eed,  at  parting. 

And  here  we  would  remark  a  great  differ- 
ence, in  point  of  character  and  quality,  between 
the  two  classes  of  trappers,  the  "American" 
and  "  French,"  as  they  are  called  in  contradis- 
tinction. The  latter  is  meant  to  designate  the 
French  creole  of  Canada  or  Louisiana  ;  the 
former,  the  trapper  of  the  old  American  stock, 
from  Kentucky,  Tennessee,  and  others  of  the 
Western  States,  The  French  trapper  is  repre- 
sented as  a  lighter,  .softer,  more  self-indulgent 
kind  of  man.     He  must  have  his  Indian  wife. 


li  ■ 


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III,;,...  ..^■.^.tMlmmwryM7MS,fr.^.^■;yjgljf.r  ^ .. 


20 


JBonneviUe'6  Bdventurca 


his  lodge,  and  his  petty  conveniences.  He  is 
gay  and  thoughtless,  takes  little  heed  of  land- 
marks, depends  upon  his  leaders  and  compan- 
ions to  think  for  the  coniraoti  weal,  and,  if  left 
to  himself,  is  easily  perplexed  and  lost. 

The  American  trapper  stands  by  himself,  and 
is  peerless  for  the  service  of  the  wilderness. 
Drop  him  in  the  midst  of  a  prairie,  or  in  the 
heart  of  the  mountains,  and  he  is  never  at  a 
loss.  He  notices  every  landmark  ;  can  retrace 
his  route  through  the  most  monotonous  plains, 
or  the  most  perplexed  labyrinths  of  the  moun- 
tains ;  no  danger  nor  diffif  ulty  can  appall  him, 
and  he  scorns  to  complain  under  any  privation. 
In  equipping  the  two  kinds  of  trappers,  the 
Creole  and  Canadian  are  apt  to  prefer  the  light 
fusee ;  the  American  always  grasps  his  rifle  ; 
he  despises  what  he  calls  the  "  shot-gun."  We 
give  these  estimates  on  the  authority  of  a  trader 
of  long  experience,  and  a  foreigner  by  birth. 
"I  consider  one  American,"  said  he,  "equal 
to  three  Canadians  in  point  of  sagacity,  apt- 
ness at  resources,  self-dependence,  and  fearless- 
ness of  spirit.  In  fact,  no  one  can  cope  with 
him  as  a  stark  tramper  of  the  wilderness." 

Beside  the  two  classes  of  trappers  just  men- 
tioned, Captain  Bonneville  had  enlisted  several 
Delawa:  •  Indians  in  his  employ,  on  whose 
hunting  qualifications  he  placed  great  reliance. 


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Bgencs  of  tbc  Ycansae  Crtbc 


On  the  6th  of  May  the  travellers  passed  the 
last  border  habitation,  and  bade  a  long  farewell 
to  the  ease  and  security  of  civilization.  The 
buoyant  and  clamorous  spirits  with  which  they 
had  commenced  their  march,  gradually  sub- 
sided as  they  entered  upon  its  difficulties.  They 
found  the  prairies  saturated  with  the  heavy 
cold  rains,  prevalent  in  certain  seasons  of  the 
year  in  this  part  of  the  countrj-,  the  wagon 
wheels  sank  deep  in  the  mire,  the  horses  were 
often  to  the  fetlock,  and  both  steed  and  rider 
were  completely  jaded  bj'  the  evening  of  the 
1 2th,  when  they  reached  the  Kansas  River  ;  a 
fine  stream  about  three  hundred  yards  wide, 
entering  the  Missouri  from  the  .south.  Though 
fordable  in  almo.st  every  part  at  the  end  of 
sunnner  and  during  the  autumn,  yet  it  was 
necessary  to  construct  a  raft  for  the  transporta- 
tion of  the  wagons  and  effects.  All  this  was 
done  in  thecour.se  of  the  following  day,  and  by 
evening,  the  whole  party  arrived  at  the  agency 
of  the  Kansas  tril)e.  This  was  under  the 
superintendence  of  General  Clarke,  brother  of 
the  celebrated  traveller  of  the  same  name,  who, 
with  Lewis,  made  the  first  expedition  down  the 
waters  of  the  Columl)ia.  He  was  living  like  a 
patriarch,  surroiuuled  by  lal)orers  and  inter- 
preters, all  snugly  housed,  and  provi<led  with 
excellent  u  rms.     The  functionary  next  in  con- 


.-'^''^     ..,<^'"f*%     (^   ■v^'^*^-..*^jC?*  '  \ 


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22 


JGoiiiicvtlle's  XlOvcntuccs 


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sequence  to  the  agent  was  the  blacksmith,  a 
most  important,  and,  indeed,  indispensable  per- 
sonage in  a  f'rontitr  community.  The  Kansas 
resemble  the  Osaj/es  in  features,  dress,  and 
language  ;  .lie}'  raise  corn  and  hunt  the  buf- 
falo, ranging  the  Kansas  River,  and  its  tribu- 
tary streams ;  at  the  time  of  the  captain's 
visit,  they  were  at  war  with  the  Pawnees  of 
the  Nebraska,  or  Platte  River. 

The  innisual  sight  of  a  train  of  wagons, 
caused  quite  a  sensation  among  these  savages  ; 
who  thronged  about  the  caravan,  examining 
ever}"  thing  minutely,  and  asking  a  thousand 
questions  r  exhibiting  a  degree  of  excitability, 
and  a  lively  curiosity,  totally  opposite  to  that 
apathy  with  which  their  race  is  so  often  re- 
proached. 

The  personage  who  most  attracted  the  cap- 
tain's attention  at  this  place,  was  "  White 
Plume,"  the  Kansas  chief,  and  they  .soon  be- 
came good  friends.  White  Plume  (we  are 
pleased  with  his  chivalrous  soiil'ritjiwt)  inhabi- 
ted a  large  stone  house,  built  for  him  by  order 
of  the  American  government  ;  but  the  estab- 
lishment had  not  been  carried  out  in  corre- 
sponding .style.  It  might  be  ])alace  without, 
but  it  was  wigwam  within  :  .so  that,  between 
the  .stateliness  of  his  man.sion,  and  the  squalid- 
ness  of  his  furniture,  the  gallant  White  Plume 


O-— v^-^.:^ 


''^e^a^V^'.'AV 


::.^.^\ 


^ 


'1  //  Iiulian  Ai^cniy  on  the  Missouri 


R 


iver. 


I'lom  ii)i  oLI  I  )ii;rit7'iiii;. 


vw? 


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"Jwrni'iillU'WiKI""*" 


,  , Ill iiilWg 


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^^■■■iiil    IwMlir'Tl . 


p'VIU'- 


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Aetbod  of  lEncampiitd 


23 


presented  some  such  whimsical  incongruity  as 
we  see  in  the  gala  equipments  of  an  Indian 
chief,  on  a  treaty-making  embassy  at  Washing- 
ton, who  has  been  generously  decked  out  in 
cocked  hat  and  military  coat,  in  contrast  to  his 
l)reecli-clout  and  leathern  leggings  ;  being 
grand  officer  at  top,  and  ragged  Indian  at 
bottom. 

White  Plume  was  so  taken  with  the  courtesy 
of  the  captain,  and  pleased  with  one  or  two 
presents  received  from  him,  that  he  accompa- 
nied him  a  day's  journey  on  his  march,  and 
passed  a  night  in  his  camp,  on  the  margin  of 
a  small  stream.  The  method  of  encamping 
generally  observed  by  the  captain,  was  as  fol- 
lows :  The  twenty  wagons  were  disposed  in  a 
.square,  at  the  distance  of  thirty-three  feet  from 
each  other.  In  every  interval  there  was  a  mess 
stationed  ;  and  each  mess  had  its  fire,  'here 
the  men  cooked,  ate,  go.ssiped,  and  slept.  The 
horses  were  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  square, 
with  a  guard  stationed  over  them  at  night. 

The  horses  were  "  side-lined,"  as  it  is  termed: 
that  is  to  say,  the  fore  and  hind  foot  on  the  same 
side  of  the  animal  were  tied  together,  so  as  to 
be  within  eighteen  inches  of  each  other.  A 
horse  thus  fettered  is  for  a  time  sadly  embar- 
rassed, but  soon  becomes  sufficiently  accus- 
tomed to  the  restraint  to  move  about  slowly. 


"e- 


C^i 


■'::lh 


i  >'!! 


i     In 


"••«»»iiMiii!S*?^ 


y-     >-^;^ri 


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li  ( 


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T^^^iJ'      '«*r-  W   ■^♦^•Ij  '^-i'^/'  Uii    "•v'CJW"'"'    'UJ^S^       43^'^^\ 


^ 

mj 


34 


:iBonneviUe'd  BDventuces 


It  prevents  his  wandering  ;  and  his  being  easily 
carried  off  at  night  by  lurking  Indians.  When 
a  horse  that  is  "  foot  free,"  is  tied  to  one  thus 
secured,  the  latter  forms,  as  it  were,  a  pivot, 
round  which  the  other  runs  and  curvets,  in  case 
of  alarm. 

The  encampment  of  which  we  are  speaking, 
presented  a  striking  .scene.  The  various  mess- 
fires  were  surrounded  by  picturesque  groups, 
standing,  sitting,  and  reclining  ;  some  busied 
in  cooking,  others  in  cleaning  their  weapons  : 
while  the  frequent  laugh  told  that  the  rough 
joke,  or  merry  story  was  go  ng  on.  In  the 
middle  of  the  camp,  before  the  principal  lodge, 
sat  the  two  chieftains,  Captain  Bonneville  and 
White  Plume,  in  .soldier-like  communion,  the 
captain  delighted  with  the  opportunitj-  of  meet- 
ing, on  social  terms,  with  one  of  the  red  war- 
riors of  the  wilderness,  the  unsophisticated 
children  of  nature.  The  latter  was  squatted 
on  his  buffalo  robe,  his  strong  features  and  red 
.skin  glaring  in  the  broad  light  of  a  blazing 
fire,  while  he  recounted  astounding  tales  of  the 
bloody  exploits  of  his  tribe  and  himself,  in 
their  wars  with  the  Pawnees  ;  for  there  are  no 
soldiers  more  given  to  long  campaigning  stories 
than  Indian  ' '  braves. ' ' 

The  feuds  of  White  Plume,  however,  had 
not  been  confined  to  the   red   men  ;    he  had 


k 


it 


u. 


<f     !■ 


w 


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as 


much  to  say  of  brushes  with  bee  hunters,  a 
class  of  oflfenders  for  whom  he  seemed  to  cher- 
ish a  particular  abhorrence.  As  the  species  of 
hunting  prosecuted  by  these  worthies  is  not 
laid  down  in  any  of  the  ancient  books  of  ven- 
erie,  and  is,  in  fact,  peculiar  to  our  western 
frontier,  a  word  or  two  on  the  subject  may  not 
be  unacceptable  to  the  reader. 

The  bee  hunter  is  generally  some  .settler  on 
the  verge  of  the  prairie  ;  a  long,  lank  fellow, 
of  fever  and  ague  complexion,  acquired  from 
living  on  new  soil,  and  in  a  hut  built  of  green 
logs.  In  the  autumn,  when  the  harvest  is  over, 
the.se  frontier  .settlers  form  parties  of  two  or 
three,  and  prepare  for  a  bee  hunt.  Having 
provided  themselves  with  a  wagon,  and  a  num- 
ber of  empty  casks,  they  sally  off,  armed  with 
their  rifles,  into  the  wilderness,  directing  their 
course  east,  west,  north,  or  south,  without  any 
regard  to  the  ordinance  of  the  American  gov- 
ernment, which  strictlj-  forbids  all  trespass  upon 
the  lands  belonging  to  the  Indian  tribes. 

The  belts  of  woodland  that  traverse  the  lower 
prairies,  and  border  the  rivers,  are  peopled  by 
iiniumerable  swarms  of  wild  bees,  which  make 
their  hives  in  hollow  trees,  and  fill  them  with 
honey  tolled  from  the  rich  flowers  of  the  prai- 
ries. The  bees,  according  to  popular  a.ssertion, 
are  migrating,  like  the  settlers,  to  the  west. 


*fk) 


.>i? 


^-' 


._  J«^'  r 


\  - 


hi 


i; 


i-  it 


^  I 


I'M 


H 


M, 


) 


I 


HI 


\    (I 


■M.     _     .^.^__t^ 


^'tttfrn" 


M 


.1^ 


'^-^ 


JBonncvtllc's  ac>vcnturcy 


I 


An  Indian  trader,  well  experienced  in  the 
country,  informs  us  that  within  ten  years  that 
he  has  passed  in  the  Far  West,  the  bee  has 
advanced  westward  above  a  hundred  miles.  It 
is  said  on  the  Missouri,  that  tlie  wild  turkey 
and  the  wild  bee  go  up  the  river  together  : 
neither  are  found  in  the  upper  regiotis.  It  is 
but  recently  that  the  wild  turkey  has  been 
killed  on  the  Nebraska,  or  Platte  ;  and  his 
y^  travelling  competitor,  the  wild  bee,  appeared 
there  about  the  same  time. 

Be  all  this  as  it  may  :  the  course  of  our  party 
of  bee  hunters,  is  to  make  a  wide  circuit  through 
the  woody  river  bottoms,  and  the  patches  of 
forest  on  the  prairies,  marking,  as  they  go  out, 
every  tree  in  which  they  have  detected  a  hive. 
These  marks  are  generally  respected  by  any 
other  bee  hunter  that  should  come  upon  their 
track.  When  they  have  marked  sufficient  to 
fill  all  their  ca.sks,  they  turn  their  faces  home- 
ward, cut  down  the  trees  as  they  proceed,  and 
having  loaded  their  wagon  with  honey  and 
wax,  return  well  plea.sed  to  the  .settlements. 

Now  it  .so  haj)pens  that  the  Indians  relish 
wild  honey  as  highly  as  do  the  white  men,  and 
are  the  more  delighted  with  this  natural  lux- 
ury from  its  having,  in  many  instances,  but 
recently  made  its  appearance  in  their  lands. 
The  consequence  is,  numberless  disputes  and 


f..    A 


xjS^^iM^ 


1 


sC*^ 


(Im 


CraOtng  ITalcnt  of  XLlbttc  plume 


conflicts  between  them  and  the  bee  hnnters  : 
and  often  a  party  of  the  !  ttter,  returning,  laden 
with  rich  spoil,  from  one  of  their  forays,  are 
apt  to  be  waylaid  by  the  native  lords  of  the 
soil  ;  their  honey  to  be  seized,  their  harness  cut 
to  i)ieces,  and  themselves  left  to  find  their  way 
home  the  best  way  they  can,  happy  to  escape 
with  no  greater  personal  harm  than  a  .sound 
rib-roasting. 

Such  were  the  marauders  of  whose  offenses 
the  gallant  White  Plume  made  the  mo.st  bitter 
complaint.  They  were  chiefly  the  .settlers  of 
the  western  part  of  Missouri,  who  are  the  mo.st 
famous  bee  hunters  on  the  frontier,  and  whose 
favorite  hunting  ground  lies  within  tlie  lands 
of  the  Kansas  tribe.  According  to  the  account 
of  White  Phnne,  however,  matters  were  pretty 
fairly  balanced  between  him  and  the  offenders ; 
he  having  as  often  treated  them  to  a  taste  of  the 
bitter,  as  they  had  robbed  him  of  the  .sweets. 

It  is  but  ju.stice  to  this  gallant  chief  to  say, 
that  he  gave  ])roofs  of  having  acquired  .some 
of  the  lights  of  civilization  from  his  proximity 
to  the  whites,  as  was  evinced  in  his  knowledge 
of  driving  a  bargain.  He  required  hard  ca.sh 
in  return  for  some  corn  with  which  he  supplied 
the  worthy  captain,  and  left  the  latter  at  a  loss 
which  most  to  admire,  his  native  chivalry  as  a 
brave,  or  his  acquired  adroitness  as  a  trader. 


eh 


^\ 


^ 


I 


w 


1; 


I  I 


I  i  W 


w 


f.i 


I 


'M, 


m. 


!    i 


;  f 


Gbaptcr  1f1F1I. 

Wide  Prairies — Vegetable  Productions — Tabular  Hills 
— Slabs  of  Sandstone — Nebraska  or  Platte  River — 
Scanty  Pare — Buffalo  Skulls — Wagons  Turned  into 
Boats — Herds  of  Buffalo — Cliffs  Resembling  Castles 
—The  Chimney— vScott's  Bluffs— Story  Connected 
with  them — The  Bighorn  or  Ahsabta — Its  Nature  and 
Habits — Difference  between  that  and  the  "Woolly 
Sheep,"  or  Goat  of  the  Mountains. 

FROM  the  middle  to  the  end  of  May,  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  pursued  a  western  course 
over  vast,  undulating  plains,  destitute 
of  tree  or  shrub,  rendered  miry  by  occasional 
rain,  and  cut  up  by  deep  water-courses,  where 
they  had  to  dig  roads  for  their  wagons  down 
the  soft  crumi)ling  banks,  and  to  throw  l)ridges 
across  the  streams.  The  weather  liad  attained 
the  summer  heat  ;  the  thermometer  standing 
about  fifty-seven  degrees  in  the  morning,  early, 
but  rising  to  about  ninety  degrees  at  noon.  The 
incessant  breezes,  however,  which  sweep  these 
va.st  plains,  render  the  heats  endurable.    Game 


^"■^^ 


*--*•-• 


is      i 


l\\ 


31 


i 


rr-^. 


tabular  t>illd 


y::\  /^K 


29 


was  scanty,  and  they  had  to  eke  out  their 
scanty  fare  with  wild  roots  and  vegetables, 
such  as  the  Indian  potato,  the  wild  onion,  and 
the  prairie  tomato,  and  they  met  with  quan- 
tities of  "red  root,"  from  which  the  hunters 
make  a  very  palatable  beverage.  The  only 
lunnan  being  that  crossed  their  path  was  a 
Kansas  warrior,  returning  from  some  solitary 
expedition  of  bravado  or  revenge,  bearing  a 
Pawnee  scalp  as  a  trophj-. 

The  country  gradually  rose  as  they  proceeded 
westward,  and  their  route  took  them  overhigh 
ridges,  commanding  wide  and  beautiful  pros- 
pects. The  vast  plain  was  studded  on  the  west 
with  iniumierable  hills  of  conical  .shape,  such 
as  are  seen  north  of  the  Arkansas  River.  These 
hills  have  their  summits  apparently  cut  off 
about  the  .same  elevation,  .so  as  to  leave  flat 
surfaces  at  top.  It  is  conjectured  by  .some, 
that  the  whole  country  may  originally  have 
been  of  the  altitude  of  these  tabular  hills  ;  but 
through  some  process  of  nature  may  have  sunk 
to  its  present  level  ;  these  insulated  eminences 
being  protected  by  broad  foundations  of  solid 
rock. 

Captain  Bonneville  mentions  another  geo- 
logical phenomenon  north  of  Red  River,  where 
the  surface  of  the  earth,  in  considerable  tracts 
of  country,  is  covered  with  broad  slabs  of  sand- 


i.--f 


I'  1  w 


^H 


Ai'j  ••mi 


\   ! 


k    ' 


^&mMm^ 


&j? 


30 


JBonnevtlU'd  BDvcntured 


stone,  having  the  form  and  position  of  grave- 
stones, and  looking  as  if  they  had  been  forced 
^-^^.fT  ^P  ^y  some  subterranean  agitation.  "The 
6^\ji  resemblance,"  says  he,  "which  these  very 
remarkable  spots  have  in  many  places  to  old 
church-yards  is  curious  in  the  extreme.  One 
might  almost  fancy  himself  among  the  tombs 
of  the  pre- Adamites." 

On  the  2d  of  June,  they  arrived  on  the  main 
stream  of  the  Nebraska  or  Platte  River  ;  twentj'- 
five  miles  below  the  head  of  the  Great  Island. 
**^0,^  •  The  low  banks  of  this  river  give  it  an  appear- 
ance of  great  width.  Captain  Bonneville  meas- 
ured it  in  one  place,  and  found  it  twenty-two 
hundred  yards  from  bank  to  bank.  Its  depth 
was  from  three  to  six  feet,  the  bottom  full  of 
quicksands.  The  Nebraska  is  studded  with 
islands  covered  with  that  .species  of  poplar 
called  the  cotton-wood  tree.  Keeping  up  along 
the  course  of  this  river  for  .several  days,  they 
were  obliged,  from  the  scarcity  of  game,  to  put 
themselves  upon  .short  allowance,  and,  occa- 
.sionally,  to  kill  a  steer.  They  bore  their  daily 
labors  and  privations,  however,  with  great  good 
^>R-td  ,  humor,  taking  their  tone,  in  all  probability, 
y  vlf  from  the  buoyant  spirit  of  their  leader.  "  If 
the  weather  was  inclement,"  says  the  captaiji, 
"  we  watched  the  clouds,  and  hoped  for  a  sight 
of  the  blue  sky  and  the  merry  sun.     If  food 


V 


^jy. 


\\ 


y 


''•  t 


11 


n 


Bo 


>  near  the  North  Forh  of  the  Ne- 
h-aska  Rivei-, 


<i-ii\<ii  (J  ik<'t,  li  maJ,- 


•  iiiniii;-  <i  (,\>:ie))i)>i,tit  Si, 


■i 


**>4, 


■   I  "i 1111— ——Ml 


ryigl 


Ml 


l„v.   *l 


"'I 


'  ,11 


k. 


*«'V, 


!  I 


ft: 


•    f 


' 


w 


m 


c^ 


v»  \',  -r.  i^  J.  V  >::/'%  V- 


jforh  of  fiebrasha  IRivcr  31 

was  scanty,  we  regaled  ourselves  with  the  hope 
of  soon  falling  in  with  herds  of  buffalo,  and 
having  nothing  to  do  but  slay  and  eat."  We 
doubt  whether  the  genial  captain  is  not  describ- 
ing thecheeriness  of  his  own  ])reast,  which  gave 
a  cheery  aspect  to  everything  around  him. 

There  certainly  were  evidences,  however, 
that  the  country  was  not  always  equally  desti- 
tute of  game.  At  one  place,  they  observed  a 
field  decorated  with  buffalo  skulls,  arranged  in 
circles,  curves,  and  other  mathematical  figures, 
as  if  for  some  mystic  rite  or  ceremony.  Thej' 
were  almost  iiniumerable,  and  seemed  to  have 
been  a  vast  hecatomb  offered  up  in  thanksgiv- 
ing to  the  Great  Spirit  for  some  signal  success 
in  the  chase. 

On  the  nth  of  June,  they  came  to  the  fork 
of  the  Nebraska,  where  it  divides  itself  into 
two  equal  and  beautiful  streams.  One  of  these 
branches  rises  in  the  west-soutluvest,  near  the 
head-waters  of  the  Arkansas.  Up  the  course 
of  this  branch,  as  Captain  Homieville  was  well 
aware,  lay  the  route  to  tlu;  Camanche  and  Kio- 
way  Indians,  and  to  the  northern  Mexican  set- 
tlements ;  of  the  other  branch  he  knew  nothing. 
Its  sources  might  lie  among  wild  and  inaccessi- 
ble cliffs,  and  tumble  and  foam  down  rugged 
defiles  and  over  craggy  precipices ;  but  its 
direction  was  in  the  true  course,  and  up  this 


cr>-^- 


' 


— .  "1'  i'»'m 


*!«,.  .^-•fc-  V 


■r'  '  'I".!!' 


II 


1 


II 


'"^■-^ij^S^r-" '^  '=' 


->i-^ 


33 


3Sonncvllle'd  Zldvcntures 


stream  he  determined  to  prosecute  his  route 
to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Finding  it  impos- 
sible, from  quicksands  and  other  dangerous 
impediments,  to  cross  the  river  in  this  neigh- 
borhood, lie  kt'i)t  UT>  alonjj  the  south  fork  for 
two  days,  mer:'*  s-^ekiug  a  safe  fording  place. 
At  length  he  *  ■  ..af  c'  caused  the  bodies  of 
the  wagons  to  .  disioi'^pd  from  the  wheels, 
covered  with  buffalo  hide:-,  1  A  besmeared  with 
a  compound  of  tallow  and  ashes,  thus  forming 
rude  boats.  In  the.se,  they  ferried  their  effects 
across  the  .stream,  which  was  six  hundred 
yards  wide,  with  a  swift  and  strong  current. 
Three  men  were  in  each  boat,  to  manage  it ; 
others  waded  across,  pushing  the  barks  before 
them.  Thus  all  crossed  in  safety.  A  march 
of  nine  miles  took  them  over  high  rolling  prai- 
ries to  the  north  fork  ;  their  eyes  being  regaled 
with  the  welcome  sight  of  herds  of  buffalo  at  a 
distance,  .some  careering  the  plain,  others  graz- 
ing and  reposing  in  the  natural  meadows. 

Skirting  along  the  north  fork  for  a  day  or 
two,  excessively  ainioyed  by  musquitoes  and 
buffalo  gnats,  they  reached,  on  the  evening  of 
the  17th,  a  small  but  beautiful  grove,  from 
which  issued  the  confu.sed  notes  of  singing 
birds,  the  first  they  had  heard  since  crossing  the 
boundary  of  Mi.s.souri.  After  .so  many  days  of 
weary  travelling,  through  a  naked,    monoto- 


cm 


'V. 


nous,  and  si'ent  country,  it  was  delightful  once 
more  to  hear  the  song  of  the  bird,  and  to  be- 
hold the  verdure  of  the  grove.  It  was  a  beau- 
tiful sunset,  and  a  sight  of  the  glowing  rays, 
mantling  the  tree-tops  and  rustling  branches, 
gladdened  every  heart.  They  pitched  theii 
camp  in  the  grove,  kindled  their  fires,  partook 
merrily  of  their  rude  fare,  resigned  themselves 
to  the  sweetest  sleep  they  had  enjoyed  since 
their  outset  upon  the  prairies. 

The  country  now  became  rugged  and  broken. 
High  bluffs  advanced  upon  the  river,  and 
forced  the  travellers  occasionally  to  leave  its 
banks  and  wind  their  course  into  the  interior. 
In  one  of  the  wild  and  solitary  passes,  they 
were  startled  by  the  trail  of  four  or  five  pedes- 
trians, whom  they  supposed  to  be  spies  from 
some  predatory  camp  of  either  Arickara  or 
Crow  Indians.  This  obliged  them  to  redouble 
their  vigilance  at  night,  and  to  keep  especial 
watch  upon  their  horses.  In  these  rugged  and 
elevated  regions  they  began  to  see  the  black- 
tailed  deer,  a  species  larger  than  the  ordinary 
kind,  and  chiefly  found  in  rocky  and  moun- 
tainous countries.  They  had  reached  also  a 
great  buffalo  range  ;  Captain  Bonneville  as- 
cended a  high  bluff,  commanding  an  extensive 
view  of  the  surrounding  plains.  As  far  as  his 
eye  could  reach,  the  country  seemed  absolutely 


t  n 


>    \ 


t^&emaaiBsieieL. 


A/i'i^ 


'> 


34 


JSoiiiicvilIe'0  BOventurcd 


blackened  by  innumerable  herds.  No  lan- 
guage, he  says,  could  convey  an  adequate  idea 
of  the  vast  living  mass  thus  presented  to  his 
eye.  He  remarked  that  the  bulls  and  cows 
generally  congregated  in  separate  herds. 

Opposite  to  the  camp  at  this  place  was  a  sin- 
gular phenomenon,  which  is  among  the  curi- 
osities of  the  country.  It  is  called  the  Chimney. 
The  lower  part  is  a  conical  mound,  rising  out 
of  the  naked  plain  ;  from  the  summit  shoots  up 
a  shaft  or  column,  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty  feet  in  height,  from  which  it  derives  its 
name.  The  height  of  the  whole,  according  to 
Captain  Bonneville,  is  a  hundred  and  seventy- 
five  yards.  It  is  composed  of  indurated  clay, 
with  alternate  layers  of  red  and  white  sand- 
stone, and  may  be  seen  at  the  distance  of 
upwards  of  thirty  miles. 

On  the  2 1st,  they  encamped  amidst  high  and 
beetling  cliffs  of  indurated  clay  and  sandstone, 
bearing  the  semblance  of  towers,  castles, 
churches,  and  fortified  cities.  At  a  distance, 
it  was  scarcely  possible  to  persuade  one's  self 
that  the  works  of  art  were  not  mingled  with 
the.se  fantastic  freaks  of  nature.  Tney  have 
received  the  name  of  Scott's  Bluffs,  from  a 
melancholy  circumstance.  A  number  of  years 
since,  a  party  were  descending  the  upper  part  of 
the  river  in  canoes,  when  their  frail  barks  were 


M^ 


"<.' 


!       ■   l\ 


J 


'■■) 


'^0'' 


overturned  and  all  their  powder  spoiled.  Their 
rifles  being  thus  rendered  useless,  they  were  un- 
able to  procure  food  by  hunting,  and  had  to  de- 
pend upon  roots  and  wild  fruits  for  subsistence. 
After  suffering  extremely  from  hunger,  they 
arrived  at  Laramie's  Fork,  a. small  tributary  of 
the  north  branch  of  the  Nebraska,  about  sixty 
miles  above  the  cliffs  just  mentioned.  Here 
one  of  the  party,  by  the  name  of  Scott,  was 
taken  ill ;  and  his  companions  came  to  a  halt, 
until  he  should  recover  health  and  strength 
sufficient  to  proceed.  While  they  were  search- 
ing round  in  quest  of  edible  roots,  they  dis- 
covered a  fresh  trail  of  white  men,  who  had 
evidently  but  recently  preceded  them.  What 
was  to  be  done  ?  By  a  forced  march  they 
might  overtake  this  party,  and  thus  be  able  to 
reach  the  settlements  in  safety.  Should  they 
linger,  they  might  all  perish  of  famine  and 
exhaustion.  Scott,  however,  was  incapable 
of  moving  ;  they  were  too  feeble  to  aid  him 
forward,  and  dreaded  that  such  a  clog  would 
prevent  their  coming  up  with  the  advance 
party.  They  determined,  therefore,  to  aban- 
don him  to  his  fate.  Accordingly,  under  pre- 
tense of  seeking  food,  and  such  simples  as 
might  be  efficacious  in  his  malady,  they  de- 
serted him  and  hastened  forward  upon  the 
trail.     They  succeeded  in  overtaking  the  party 


-^ 


M 


hr 


\  m 


n 


^  \ 


I 


.,.;•/' 


l\v 


'^.Jl 


"^^J 


36 


:(Sonneville'0  BDvcntures 


of  which  they  were  in  quest,  but  concealed 
their  faithless  desertion  of  Scott  ;  alleging  that 
he  had  died  of  disease. 

On  the  ensuing  summer,  these  very  individ- 
uals visiting  these  parts  in  company  with 
others,  came  suddenly  upon  the  bleached  bones 
and  grinning  skull  of  a  human  skeleton,  which, 
by  certain  signs,  they  recognized  for  the  re- 
mains of  Scott,  This  was  sixty  long  miles 
from  the  place  where  they  had  abandoned 
him  ;  and  it  appeared  that  the  wretched  man 
had  crawled  that  immense  distance  before 
death  put  an  end  to  his  miseries.  The  wild 
and  picturesque  bluffs  in  the  neighborhood  of 
his  lonely  grave  have  ever  since  bore  his 
name. 

Amidst  this  wild  and  striking  scenery.  Cap- 
tain Bonneville,  for  thefir.st  time,  beheld  flocks 
of  the  ahsahta  or  bighorn,  an  animal  which 
frequents  the.se  cliffs  in  great  numbers.  They 
accord  with  the  nature  of  such  scenery,  and 
add  much  to  its  romantic  effect ;  bounding  like 
goats  from  crag  to  crag,  often  trooping  along 
the  lofty  slielves  of  the  mountains,  under  the 
guidance  of  some  venerable  patriarch,  with 
horns  twisted  lower  than  his  muzzle,  and  some- 
times peering  over  the  edge  of  a  precipice,  so 
high  that  they  appear  scarce  bigger  than  crows  ; 
indeed,  it  seems  a  pleasure  to  them  to  seek  the 


i 


f 


A^ 


4> 


.i,c.1^^ 


€ 


-yl  ^- 


,-v^ 


^ 


Abountain  Sbecp 


most  rugged  and  frightful  situations,  doubtless 
from  a  feeling  of  securitj-. 

This  animal  is  commonly  called  the  moun- 
tain sheep,  and  is  often  confounded  with  an- 
other animal,  the  "  woolly  sheep,"  found  more 
to  the  northward,  about  the  country  of  the 
Flatheads.  The  latter  likewise  inhabits  clifiFs 
in  summer,  but  descends  into  the  valleys  in 
the  winter.  It  has  white  wool,  like  a  sheep, 
mingled  with  a  thin  growth  of  long  hair  ;  but 
it  has  short  legs,  a  deep  belly,  and  a  beard  like 
a  goat.  Its  horns  are  about  five  inches  long, 
slightly  cur\-ed  backwards,  black  as  jet,  and 
beautifully  polished.  Its  hoofs  are  of  the  same 
color.  This  animal  is  by  no  means  so  active 
as  the  bighorn  ;  it  does  not  boutid  much,  but 
sits  a  good  deal  upon  its  haunches.  It  is  not 
so  plentiful  either ;  rarely  more  than  two  or 
three  are  seen  at  a  time.  Its  wool  alone  gives 
a  resemblance  to  the  sheep  ;  it  is  more  properly 
of  the  goat  genus.  The  flesh  is  .said  to  have  a 
musty  flavor ;  .some  have  thought  the  fleece 
might  be  valuable,  as  it  is  said  to  be  as  fine  as 
that  of  the  goat  of  Cashmere,  but  it  is  not  to 
be  procured  in  sufficient  quantities. 

The  ahsahta,  argali,  or  bighorn,  on  the  con- 
trary, has  short  hair  like  a  deer,  and  resembles 
it  in  shape,  but  has  the  head  and  horns  of  a 
sheep,  aud  its  flesh  is  said  to  be  a  delicious 


.jT-t-^ 


cr%;-^  \;^  J^ix^*i-^-  '^--^^^^ 


m^^^^^F^) 


i^^j 


.1 


liii 


'I 


(:  \ 


)     V 


ll 


•  K 


I 


1 


■~SK" 


!.,.  K 


i^^^'J'^ 


I  I 


,7^^-^ 


"} 


38 


JSonneville'd  BDventuree 


mutton.  The  Indians  consider  it  more  sweet 
and  delicate  than  any  other  kind  of  venison. 
It  abounds  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  from  the 
fiftieth  degree  of  north  latitude,  quite  down  to 
California  ;  generally  in  the  highest  regions 
capable  of  vegetation  ;  sometimes  it  ventures 
into  the  valleys,  but  on  the  least  alarm,  regains 
its  favorite  cliflfs  and  precipices,  where  it  is 
perilous,  if  not  impossible  for  the  hunter  to 
follow.^' 

*  Dimensions  of  a  male  of  this  species,  from  the  nose 
to  the  base  of  the  tail,  five  feet ;  length  of  the  tail, 
four  inches ;  girth  of  the  body,  four  feet ;  height, 
three  feet  eight  inches  ;  the  horn,  three  feet  six  inches 
long  ;  one  foot  three  inches  in  circumference  at  base. 


^; 


'^'r\ 


ffTs 


Cbapter  W, 


■>.^:tir^- 


V 

^<^«' 


An  Alarm — Crow  Indians — Their  Appearance — Mode 
of  Approach — Their  Vengeful  Errand — Their  Curi- 
osity— Hostility  between  the  Crows  and  Blackfeet 
— Loving  Conduct  of  the  Crows— Laramie's  Fork — 
First  Navigation  of  the  Nebraska — Great  Elevation 
of  the  Country — Rarity  of  the  Atmosphere — Its  Ef- 
fect on  the  Wood- work  of  Wagons— Black  Hills — 
Their  Wild  and  Broken  Scenery — Indian  Dogs — 
Crow  Trophies— Sterile  and  Dreary  Country — 
Banks  of  the  Sweet  Water — Buffalo  Hunting — Ad- 
venture of  Tom  Cain,  the  Irish  Cook. 

WHEN  on  the  march,  Captain  Bonne- 
ville always  sent  some  of  his  best 
hiniters  in  the  advance  to  reconnoi- 
tre the  country,  as  well  as  to  look  out  for 
game.  On  the  24th  of  May,  as  the  caravan 
was  slowly  journeying  up  the  banks  of  the 
Nebraska,  the  hunters  came  galloping  back, 
waving  their  caps,  and  giving  the  alarm  cry, 
Indians  !  Indians  ! 

The  captain  innnediately  ordered  a  halt :  the 


39 


A*J 


-\fh  Jiff  M]i    Ja^ns 


li   !l 


./ 


i 


III 


ii<.,  «i 


....^'■. 


Mr 

'i  iv     40  asonneville's  adventures 


hunters  now  came  up  and  announced  that  a 
large  war-party  of  Crow  Indians  were  just 
above,  on  the  river.  The  captain  knew  the 
character  of  these  savages  ;  one  of  the  most 
roving,  warlike,  crafty,  and  predatory  tribes  of 
the  mountains  ;  horse-  stealers  of  the  first  order, 
and  easily  provoked  to  acts  of  sanguinary  vio- 
lence. Orders  were  accordingly  given  to  pre- 
pare for  action,  and  every  one  promptly  took 
the  po.st  that  had  been  assigned  him,  in  the 
general  order  of  the  march,  in  all  cases  of  war- 
like emergency. 

Everything  being  put  in  battle  array,  the 
captain  took  the  lead  of  his  little  band,  and 
moved  on  slowly  and  warily.  In  a  little  while 
he  beheld  the  Crow  warriors  emerging  from 
among  the  bluffs.  There  were  about  sixty  of 
them  ;  fine  martial-looking  fellows,  painted  and 
arrayed  for  war,  and  mounted  on  horses  decked 
out  with  all  kinds  of  wild  trappings.  They 
came  prancing  along  in  gallant  style,  with 
many  wild  and  dexterous  evolutions,  for  none 
can  surpa.ss  them  in  horsemanship  ;  and  their 
bright  colors,  and  flaunting  and  fantastic  em- 
bellishments, glaring  and  sparkling  in  the 
morning  sunshine,  gave  them  really  a  striking 
appearance. 

Their  mode  of  approach  to  one  not  acquainted 
with  the  tactics  and  ceremonies  of  this  rude 


'-^,m\ 


■^^-IL" 


-^i«><- 


Head  of  White  Goat  (  Woolly  Sheep). 

Fi\>»i  a  JidKiini;  /'V  J.  Cart,r  Hetini. 


% 


i 


'  i.  i 


llQU^tn*- 


. 


/ 


^:^*-4R- 


I^af4*r» 


M^  .4 


%^if.% 


s 


t 

( 

>ir:ii 


*  I!  . 


If      "1 


^^.W/ 


i 


I'i 


»\\  t- 


'fcf^: 


B  Dcn(tc(ul  £rranD 


41 


chivalry  of  the  wilderness,  had  an  air  of  direct 
hostility.  They  came  galloping  forward  in  a 
body,  as  if  about  to  make  a  furious  charge, 
but,  when  close  at  hand,  opened  to  the  right 
and  left,  and  wheeled  in  wide  circles  round  the 
travellers,  whooping  and  yelling  like  maniacs. 

This  done,  their  mock  fury  sank  into  a  calm, 
and  the  chief,  approaching  the  captain,  who 
had  remained  warily  drawn  up,  though  in- 
formed of  the  pacific  nature  of  the  manceuvre, 
extended  to  him  the  hand  of  friendship.  The 
pipe  of  peace  was  smoked,  and  now  all  was 
good  fellowship. 

The  Crows  were  in  pursuit  of  a  band  of 
Cheyennes,  who  had  attacked  their  village  iti 
the  niglit,  and  killed  one  of  their  people. 
They  had  already  been  five  and  twenty  days 
on  the  track  of  the  marauders,  and  were  deter- 
mined not  to  return  home  until  they  had  sated 
their  revenge. 

A  few  days  previously,  some  of  their  scouts, 
wlio  were  ranging  the  country  at  a  distance 
from  the  main  body,  had  discovered  the  party 
of  Captain  Bonneville.  They  had  dogged  it 
for  a  time  in  .secret,  astonished  at  the  long 
traiti  of  wagons  and  oxen,  and  especially  struck 
with  tlie  sight  of  a  cow  and  calf,  quietly  follow- 
ing the  caravan  ;  supposing  them  to  be  some 
kind  of  tame  bufl"alo.     Having  satisfied  their 


^•1 

)  I 


t  ■ 


!,  V 


I      ' 


«r  II 


I 


.■■'■i:yii 


■ 


^^^^7^.vJ^-^ 


rr^^:^  r7\  ^^^..i^:' ^M: 


'li>' 


43 


JBonncvillc'a  Bdventures 


curiosity,  tbt'y  carried  back  to  their  chief  intel- 
ligence of  all  that  they  had  seen.  He  had,  in 
consequence,  diverged  from  his  pursuit  of  ven- 
geance to  behold  the  wonders  described  to  him. 
' '  Now  that  we  have  met  you, ' '  said  he  to  Cap- 
tain Botnieville,  "and  have  seen  these  marvels 
with  our  own  eyes,  our  hearts  are  glad."  In 
fact,  nothing  could  exceed  the  curiosity  evinced 
by  these  people  as  to  the  objects  before  them. 
Wagons  had  never  been  seen  b\  them  before, 
and  they  examined  them  with  the  greatest 
minuteness ;  but  the  calf  was  the  peculiar 
object  of  their  admiration.  They  watched  it 
with  intense  interest  as  it  licked  the  hands 
accustomed  to  feed  it,  and  were  struck  with 
the  mild  expression  of  its  countenance  and  its 
perfect  docility. 

After  nmch  sage  consultation,  they  at  length 
determined  that  it  must  be  the  "great  medi- 
cine "  of  the  white  party,  an  appellation  given 
by  the  Indians  to  anything  of  supernatural 
and  .'ysterions  power,  that  is  guarded  as  a 
talisur.n.  They  were  completely  thrown  out 
in  Iheir  conjecture,  however,  by  an  offer  of  the 
wliile  men  to  exchange  t)ie  calf  for  a  horse  ; 
their  estimation  of  the  great  medicine  sank  in 
an  instant,  and  they  declined  the  bargain. 

At  the  re(piest  of  the  Crow  chieftaiti  the  two 
parties  encan\ped  together,  and  pas.sed  the  resi- 


">.• 


Q 


.  \\\ 


''%y'  N. 


r'^ 


,^ 


I-.- 


Enmity?  ot  tbe  Crows  anD  JBlachfcet 


due  of  the  day  in  company.  The  captain  was 
well  pleased  with  every  opportunity  to  gain  a 
knowledge  of  the  "  unsophisticated  sons  of 
nature,"  who  had  so  long  been  objects  of  his 
poetic  speculations ;  and  indeed  this  wild, 
horse-stealing  tribe  is  one  of  the  most  notori- 
ous of  the  mountains.  The  chief,  of  course, 
had  his  scalps  to  show  and  his  battles  to  re- 
count. The  Blackfoot  is  the  hereditary  enemy 
of  the  Crow,  towards  whom  hostility  is  like  a 
cherished  principle  of  religion  ;  for  every  tribe, 
besides  its  casual  antagonists,  has  some  endur- 
ing foe  with  whom  there  can  be  no  permanent 
reconciliation.  The  Crows  and  Blackfeet,  upon 
the  whole,  are  enemies  worthy  of  each  other, 
being  rogues  and  ruffians  of  the  first  water. 
As  their  predatory  excursions  extend  over  the 
same  regions,  they  often  come  in  contact  with 
each  other,  atid  these  casual  conflicts  serve  to 
keep  their  wits  awake  and  their  passions 
alive. 

Thcpresentparty  of  Crows,  however,  evinced 
nothing  of  the  invidious  character  for  which 
they  are  renowned.  During  the  day  and  night 
that  they  were  encamped  in  company  with  the 
travellers,  their  conduct  was  f'.  ;endly  in  the 
extreme.  They  were,  in  fact,  quite  irksome 
in  their  attentions,  and  had  a  caressing  man- 


ner at   times   quite  nuportunate. 


It  was  not 


i 


r 


!.   V 


I 


\-\ 


t 

>       K 

3..F 

iri 

V 


II 


\  \ 


If 


i  J 


iV 


m 

Mil}! 


t,    I 


^^/f^*^" 


r;  -'UJR'jCfcc.jKf  «X3BUL.iSir:^. 


■^•~>-.;- 


'«v./ 


44 


-iIC.J.,  .-*"■<" 


:iSonncville'6  Bdventurcs 


until  after  separation  on  the  following  morn- 
ing, that  the  captain  and  his  men  ascertained 
the  secret  of  all  this  loving-kindness.  In  the 
course  of  their  fraternal  carcases,  the  Crows 
had  contrived  to  empty  the  pockets  of  their 
white  brothers ;  to  abstract  the  very  buttons 
from  their  coats,  and,  above  all,  to  make  free 
with  their  hunting  knives. 

By  equal  altitudes  of  the  sun,  taken  at  this 
last  encampment.  Captain  Bonneville  ascer- 
tained his  latitude  to  be  41°  47'  north.  The 
thermometer,  at  .six  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
stood  at  fifty-nine  degrees ;  at  two  o'clock 
P.  M.,  at  ninety-two  degrees  ;  and  at  six  o'clock 
in  the  evening,  at  seventy  degrees. 

The  Black  Hills,  or  Mountains,  now  began 
to  be  seen  at  a  distance,  printing  the  horizon 
with  their  rugged  and  broken  outlines,  and 
threatening  to  oppose  a  difficult  barrier  in  the 
way  of  the  travellers. 

On  the  26th  of  May,  the  travellers  encamped 
at  Laramie's  Fork,  a  clear  and  beautiful  stream, 
rising  in  the  west-southwest,  maintaining  an 
average  width  of  twenty  yards,  and  winding 
through  broad  meadows  abounding  in  currants 
and  gooseberries,  and  adorned  with  groves  and 
clumps  of  trees. 

By  an  observation  of  Jupiter's  satellites, 
with  a   Dolland   reflecting   telescope,  Captain 


;;  /» 


•0"^^(7 


w»i-  -.  ^■ft'in 


■  '-■  ."-* 


■k 


W 


-r~?i. 


rr^fC-  /r~-,i^r''^^  -c^'V*tv*~\  rM'-"^' 


-^  - 


K- 


1.' 


artOitg  of  tbe  atmogpbcrc 


45 


,  •  y    Bonneville  ascertained  the  longitude  to  be  102° 
57'  west  of  Greenwich, 

We  will  here  step  ahead  of  our  narrative  to 
observe,  that  about  three  years  after  the  time 
of  which  we  are  treating,  Mr.  Robert  Camp- 
bell, formerly  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur 
Company,  descended  the  Platte  from  this  fork, 
in  skin  canoes,  thus  proving,  what  had  always 
been  discredited,  that  the  river  was  navigable. 
About  the  same  time,  he  built  a  fort  or  trading 
post  at  Laramie's  Fork,  which  he  named  Fort 
William,  after  his  friend  and  partner,  Mr.  Wil- 
liam .Sublette.  Since  that  time,  the  Platte  has 
become  a  highway  for  the  fur  traders. 

For  some  days  past,  Captain  Bonneville  had 
been  made  sensible  of  the  great  elevation  of 
country  into  which  he  was  gradually  ascend- 
ing, by  the  eflFect  of  the  dryness  and  rarefac- 
tion of  the  atmosphere  upon  his  wagons.  The 
wood-work  shrunk  ;  the  paint  boxes  of  the 
wheels  were  continually  working  out,  and  it 
was  necessary  to  support  the  spokes  by  stout 
props  to  prevent  their  falling  asunder.  The 
travellers  were  now  entering  one  of  those  great 
steppes  of  the  Far  West,  where  the  prevalent 
aridity  of  the  atmosphere  renders  the  country 
unfit  for  cultivation.  In  these  regions  there  is 
a  fresh  sweet  growth  of  grass  in  the  spring,  but 
it  is  scanty  and  short,  and  parches  up  in  the 


^y"^"^ 


"^       '^<yiP" 


,-n/ 


Wi^j:^ 


\ 


I  7 


i 


/<i  > 


'ti...  h 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


{./ 


<? 


^ 
^ 


,> 


<;'     .^ 


% 


^^, 


f/. 


1.0  :^« 


I.I 


1.25 


28 


1^   1^ 

It  lis 


2.5 
2.2 

20 

1.8 


U    Hi  1.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WMSTIR,N.Y.  14S80 

(716)  S73-4S03 


0 


k 


i^ 


^'^^j^ 


3Boimeville'0  Bdventured 


course  of  the  summer,  so  that  there  is  none  for 
the  hunters  to  set  fire  to  in  the  autumn.  It  is 
a  common  observation,  that  "  above  the  forks 
of  the  Platte  the  grass  does  not  burn."  All 
attempts  at  agriculture  and  gardening  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Fort  William  have  been  at- 
tended with  very  little  success.  The  grain 
and  vegetables  raised  there  have  been  scanty 
in  quantity  and  poor  in  quality.  The  great 
elevation  of  these  plains,  and  the  dryness  of 
the  atmosphere,  will  tend  to  retain  these  im- 
mense regions  in  a  state  of  pristine  wildness. 

In  the  course  of  a  day  or  two  more,  the  trav- 
ellers entered  that  wild  and  broken  tract  of  the 
Crow  country  called  the  Black  Hills,  and  here 
their  journey  became  toilsome  in  the  extreme. 
Rugged  steeps  and  deep  ravines  incessantly 
obstructed  their  progress,  so  that  a  great  part 
of  the  day  was  spent  in  the  painful  toil  of  dig- 
ging through  banks,  filling  up  ravines,  forcing 
the  wagons  up  the  most  forbidding  ascents,  or 
swinging  them  with  ropes  down  the  face  of 
dangerous  precipices.  The  shoes  of  their 
horses  were  worn  out,  and  their  feet  it^jured 
by  the  rugged  and  stony  roads.  The  travel- 
ler! \v  Te  annoyed  also  by  frequent  but  brief 
storms,  which  would  come  hurrying  over  the 
hills,  or  through  the  mountain  defiles,  rage 
with  great  fury  for  a  short  time,  and  then 


^: 


2"^! 


(h 


-^t 


c) 


i)~ir^^ 


f  ndtan  Dogs 


pass  oflF,  leaving  everything  calm  and  serene 
again. 

For  several  nights  the  camp  had  been  in- 
fested by  vagabond  Indian  dogs,  prowling 
about  in  quest  of  food.  They  were  about  the 
size  of  a  large  pointer ;  with  ears  short  and 
erect,  and  a  long  bushy  tail — altogether,  they 
bore  a  striking  resemblance  to  a  wolf.  These 
skulking  visitors  would  keep  about  the  pur- 
lieus of  the  camp  until  daylight ;  when,  on  the 
first  stir  of  life  among  the  sleepers,  they  would 
scamper  off  until  they  reached  some  rising 
ground,  where  they  would  take  their  seats, 
and  keep  a  sharp  and  hungry  watch  upon 
every  movement.  The  moment  the  travellers 
were  fairly  on  the  march,  and  the  camp  was 
abandoned,  these  starveling  hangers-on  would 
hasten  to  the  deserted  fires  to  seize  upon  the 
half-picked  bones,  the  offals  and  garbage  that 
lay  about ;  and,  having  made  a  hasty  meal, 
with  many  a  snap  and  snarl  and  growl,  would 
follow  leisurely  on  the  trail  of  the  caravan. 
Many  attempts  were  made  to  coax  or  catch 
them,  but  in  vain.  Their  quick  and  suspicious 
eyes  caught  the  slightest  sinister  movement, 
and  they  turned  and  scampered  off.  At  length 
one  was  taken.  He  was  terribly  alarmed,  and 
crouched  and  trembled  as  if  expecting  instant 
death.     Soothed,  however,  by  caresses,  he  be- 


v\ 


>  ■^^'^v 


i  v» 


>     M 


■^'^ 


i      V 


mm 


mm 


■■ 


^^'&^ 


JBonnevUIc'd  BDventures 


gan  after  a  time  to  gather  confidence  and  wag 
his  tail,  and  at  length  was  brought  to  follow 
close  at  the  heels  of  his  captors,  still,  however, 
darting  around  furtive  and  suspicious  glances, 
and  evincing  a  disposition  to  scamper  oflf  upon 
the  least  alarm. 

On  the  first  of  July  the  band  of  Crow  war- 
riors again  crossed  their  path.  They  came  in 
vaunting  and  vain-glorious  style ;  displaying 
five  Cheyenne  scalps,  the  trophies  of  their 
vengeance.  Thej'^  were  now  bound  home 
wards,  to  appease  the  manes  of  their  comrade 
by  these  proofs  that  his  death  had  been  re- 
venged, and  intended  to  have  scalp-dances  and 
other  triumphant  rejoicings.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville and  his  men,  however,  were  by  no  means 
disposed  to  renew  their  confiding  intimacy  with 
these  crafty  savages,  and  above  all,  took  care 
to  avoid  their  pilfering  caresses.  They  re- 
marked one  precaution  of  the  Crows  with  re- 
spect to  their  horses  ;  to  protect  their  hoofs 
from  the  sharp  and  jagged  rocks  among  which 
they  had  to  pass,  they  had  covered  them  with 
shoes  of  buflfalo  hide. 

The  route  of  the  travellers  lay  generally 
along  the  course  of  the  Nebraska  or  Platte, 
but  occasionally,  where  steep  promontories  ad- 
vanced to  the  margin  of  the  stream,  they  were 
obliged  to  make  inland  circuits.     On.,  of  these 


■'^ 


^ 


Si-* 


-> 


■^^^u 


powOer  'River  Aountaine 


took  them  through  a  bold  and  stern  country, 
bordered  by  a  range  of  low  mountains,  running 
east  and  west.  Everything  around  bore  traces 
of  some  feai-ful  convulsion  of  nature  in  times 
long  past.  Hitherto  the  various  strata  of  rock 
had  exhibited  a  gentle  elevation  towards  the 
southwest,  but  here  everything  appeared  to 
have  been  subverted,  and  thrown  out  of  place. 
In  many  places  there  were  heavy  beds  of  white 
sandstone  resting  upon  red.  Immense  strata 
of  rocks  jutted  up  into  crags  and  cliffs ;  and 
sometimes  formed  perpendicular  walls  and 
overhanging  precipices.  An  air  of  sterility 
prevailed  over  these  savage  wastes.  The  val- 
leys were  destitute  of  herbage,  and  scantily 
clothed  with  a  stunted  species  of  wormwood, 
generally  known  among  traders  and  trappers 
by  the  name  of  sage.  From  an  elevated  point 
of  their  march  through  this  region,  the  travel- 
lers caught  a  beautiful  view  of  the  Powder 
River  Mountains  awav  to  the  north,  stretching 
along  the  very  verge  o»  .lie  horizon,  and  seem- 
ing, fron  the  snow  with  which  they  were 
mantled,  to  be  a  chain  of  small  white  clouds, 
connecting  sky  and  earth. 

Though  th  i  thermometer  at  midday  ranged 
from  eighty  to  ninety,  and  even  sometimes  rose 
to  niney-three  degrees,  yet  occasional  spots  of 
snow  were  to  be  seen  on  the  tops  of  the  low 


i  s^:£5gg*i 


'    )j 


' 


^^>i2r' 


A-f 


^ 


h 


C^ 


'4v 


50 


JBonnevtUe's  Bdventurcs 


mountains,  among  which  the  travellers  were 
journeying  ;  proofs  of  the  great  elevation  of 
the  whole  region. 

The  Nebraska,  in  its  passage  through  the 
Black  Hills,  is  confined  to  a  much  narrower 
channel  than  that  through  which  it  flows  in 
the  plains  below  ;  but  it  is  deeper  and  clearer, 
and  rushes  with  a  stronger  current.  The 
scenery,  also,  is  more  varied  and  beautiful. 
Sometimes  it  glides  rapidly  but  smoothly 
through  a  picturesque  valley,  between  wooded 
banks  ;  then,  forcing  its  way  into  the  bosom 
of  rugged  mountains,  it  rushes  impetuously 
through  narrow  defiles,  roaring  and  foaming 
down  rocks  and  rapids,  until  it  is  again  soothed 
to  rest  in  some  peaceful  valley. 

On  the  1 2th  of  July,  Captain  Bonneville 
abandoned  the  main  stream  cf  the  Nebraska, 
whicli  was  continualh'  shouldered  by  rugged 
promontories,  and  making  a  bend  to  the  .south- 
west, for  a  couple  of  days,  part  of  the  time 
over  plains  of  loose  sand,  encamped  on  the 
14th,  or.'  the  banks  of  the  Sweet  Water,  a 
stream  about  twenty  yards  in  breadth,  and 
four  or  five  feet  deep,  flowing  between  low 
banks  over  a  sandy  soil,  and  forming  one  of 
the  forks  or  upper  branches  of  the  Nebraska. 
Up  this  stream  they  now  shaped  their  course 
for  several  successive  days,  tending  generally. 


i 


Sc 


m 


1 1! 


.'>> 


m; 


£levation  of  tbe  Countc)? 


to  the  west.  The  soil  was  light  and  sandy  ; 
the  country  much  diversified.  Frequently  the 
plains  were  studded  with  isolated  blocks  of 
rock,  sometimes  in  the  shape  of  a  half  globe, 
and  from  three  to  four  hundred  feet  high. 
These  singular  masses  had  occasionally  a  very 
imposing,  and  even  sublime  appearance,  rising 
from  the  midst  of  a  savage  and  lonely  land- 
scape. 

As  the  travellers  continued  to  advance,  they 
became  more  and  more  sensible  of  the  eleva- 
tion of  the  country.  The  hills  around  were 
more  generally  capped  with  snow.  The  men 
complained  of  cramps  ^ tid  colics,  sore  lips  and 
mouths,  and  violent  neadaches.  The  wood- 
work of  the  wagons  also  shrank  so  much,  that 
it  was  with  difficulty  the  wheels  were  kept 
from  falling  to  pieces.  The  country  bordering 
upon  the  river  was  frequently  gashed  with 
deep  ravines,  or  traversed  by  high  bluffs,  to 
avoid  which,  the  travellers  were  obliged  to 
make  wide  circuits  through  the  plains.  In  the 
course  of  these,  they  came  upon  inmiense  herds 
of  buffalo,  which  kept  scouring  off  in  the  van, 
like  a  retreating  army. 

Among  the  motley  retainers  of  the  camp  was 
Tom  Cain,  a  raw  Iri.shman,  who  officiated  as 
cook,  whose  various  blunders  and  expedients 
in  his  novel  situation,  and  in  the  wild  scenes 


A\u.\\ 


5?l 


ym 


XonneviHc'6  adventures 


and  wild  kind  of  life  into  which  he  had  sud- 
denly been  thrown,  had  made  him  a  kind  of 
butt  or  droll  of  the  camp.  Tom,  however, 
began  to  discover  an  ambition  superior  to  his 
station  ;  and  the  conversation  of  the  hunters, 
and  their  stories  of  their  exploits,  inspired  him 
with  a  desire  to  elevate  himself  to  the  dignity 
of  their  order.  The  buflFalo  in  such  immense 
droves  presented  a  tempting  opportunity. for 
making  his  first  essay.  He  rode,  in  the  line  of 
march,  all  prepared  for  action  :  his  powder- 
flask  and  shot-pouch  knowingly  slung  at  the 
pommel  of  his  saddle,  to  be  at  hand  ;  his  rifle 
balanced  on  his  shoulder.  While  in  this  plight, 
a  troop  of  buffalo  came  trotting  by  in  great 
alarm.  In  an  instant,  Tom  sprang  from  his 
horse  and  gave  chase  on  foot.  Finding  th^y 
were  leaving  him  behind,  he  levelled  his  rifl"; 
and  pulled  trigger.  His  shot  produced  no  other 
effect  than  to  increase  the  speed  of  the  buffalo, 
and  to  frighten  his  own  horse,  who  took  to  his 
heels,  and  scampered  off  with  all  the  ammuni- 
tion. Tom  scampered  after  him,  hallooing  with 
might  and  main,  and  the  wild  horse  and  wild 
Irishman  soon  disappeared  among  the  ravines 
of  the  prairie.  Captain  Bonneville,  who  was 
at  the  head  of  the  line,  and  had  seen  the  trans- 
action at  a  distance,  detached  a  party  in  pur- 
suit   of  Tom.     After   a    long    interval    they 


^1 


j: 


^\  «-• 


cov 


r 


•>^*' 


[/"/ 
,->\i 

d: 


»^' 


t 


r 


N 


Zom  Cain  tbe  Cook 


53 


returned,  leading  the  frightened  horse  ;  but 
though  they  had  scoured  the  country,  and 
looked  out  and  shouted  from  every  height, 
they  had  seen  nothing  of  his  rider. 

As  Captain  Bonneville  knew  Tom's  utter 
awkwardness  and  inexoericnce,  and  the  dan- 
gers of  a  bewildered  i»ishman  in  the  midst  of 
a  prairie,  he  halted  and  encamped  at  an  early 
hour,  that  there  might  be  a  regular  hunt  for 
him  in  the  morning. 

At  early  dawn  on  the  following  day  scouts 
were  sent  off  in  every  direction,  while  the  main 
body,  afte^  breakfast,  proceeded  slowly  on  its 
course.  It  was  not  until  the  middle  of  the 
afternoon  that  the  hunters  returned,  with  hon- 
est Tom  mounted  behind  one  of  them.  They 
had  found  him  in  a  complete  state  of  perplexity 
and  amazement.  His  appearance  caused  shouts 
of  merriment  in  the  camp, — but  Tom  for  once 
could  not  join  in  the  mirth  raised  at  his  ex- 
pense :  he  was  completely  chapfallen,  and  ap- 
parently cured  of  the  hunting  mania  for  the 
rest  of  his  life. 


m 


l'^ 


w 


Y: 


*    Vi 


V 


*x. 


'k^-X^i^^i 


,}, 


I 


n 


>\    AL      ii. 


1 


I    f 


H 


I 


1  - 


ei 


Cbapter  D. 

Magnificent  Scenery — Wind  River  Mountains — Treas- 
ury of  Waters — A  Stray  Horse — An  Indian  Trail — 
Trout  Streams — The  Great  Green  River  Valley — An 
Alarm — A  Band  of  Trappers — Foutenelle,  his  In- 
formation— SufiFerings  of  Thirst— Encampment  on 
the  Seeds-ke-dee — Strategy  of  Rival  Traders — For- 
tification of  the  Camp— The  Blackfeet — Banditti  of 
the  Mountains — Their  Character  and  Habits. 


I 


T  was  on  the  20th  of  July  that  Captain 
Bonneville  first  came  in  sight  of  the  grand 
region  of  his  hopes  and  anticipations,  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  He  had  been  making  a 
bend  to  the  south,  to  avoid  some  obstacles 
along  the  river,  and  had  attained  a  high,  rocky 
ridge,  when  a  magnificent  prospect  burst  upon 
his  sight.  To  the  west,  rose  the  Wind  River 
Mountains,  with  their  bleached  and  snowy 
summits  towering  into  the  clouds.  These 
stretched  far  to  the  north-northwest,  until  they 
melted  away  into  what  appeared  to  be  faint 
clouds,  but  which  the  experienced  eyes  of  the 


^ 


t 


ik 


veteran  hunters  of  the  party  recognized  for  the 
rugged  mountains  of  the  Yellowstone  ;  at  the 
feet  of  which,  extended  the  wild  Crow  country, 
a  perilous,  though  profitable  region  for  the 
trapper. 

To  the  southwest,  the  eye  ranged  over  an 
immense  extent  of  wilderness,  with  what  ap- 
peared to  be  a  snowy  vapor  resting  upon  its 
horizon.  This,  however,  was  pointed  out  as 
another  branch  of  the  Great  Chippewyan,  or 
Rocky  chain  ;  being  the  Eutaw  Mountains,  at 
whose  basis  the  wandering  tribes  of  hunters 
of  the  same  name  pitch  their  tents. 

We  can  imagine  the  enthus-  .sm  of  the  wor- 
thy captain,  when  he  beheld  the  vast  and 
mountainous  scene  of  his  adventurous  enter- 
prise thus  suddenly  unveiled  before  him.  We 
can  imagine  with  what  feelings  of  awe  and  ad- 
miration he  must  have  contemplated  the  Wind 
River  Sierra,  or  bed  of  mountains  ;  that  great 
fountain-head,  from  whose  springs,  and  lakes, 
and  melted  snows,  some  of  those  mighty  rivers 
take  their  rise,  which  wander  over  hundreds  of 
miles  of  varied  country  and  clime,  and  find 
their  way  to  the  opposite  waves  of  the  Atlantic 
and  the  Pacific. 

The  Wind  River  Mountains  are,  in  fact, 
among  the  most  remarkable  of  the  whole  Rocky 
chain  ;  and   would  appear  to  be  among  the 


^'^  ;o.3^^^"' 


;  /. 


%% 


^ 


:( 


\ 

I 


\      \\ 


V  . 


w 


^^^h#^w;f-rr— -^^^ 


.  I 


i 


;! 


XonncvHlc'6  BOventures 


loftiest.  They  form,  as  it  were,  a  great  bed 
of  mountains,  about  eighty  miles  in  length, 
and  from  twenty  to  thirty  in  breadth  ;  with 
rugged  peaks,  covered  with  eternal  snows,  and 
deep,  narrow  valleys,  full  of  springs,  and 
brooks,  and  rock-bound  lakes.  From  this  great 
treasury  of  waters,  issue  forth  limpid  streams, 
which,  augmenting  as  thej'  descend,  become 
main  tributaries  of  the  Missouri  on  the  one  side, 
and  the  Columbia  on  the  other  ;  and  give  rise 
to  the  Seeds-ke-dee  Agie,  or  Green  River,  the 
great  Colo,  ado  of  the  West,  that  empties  its 
current  into  the  Gulf  of  California. 

The  Wind  River  Mountains  are  notorious  in 
hunters'  and  trappers'  stories  :  their  rugged  de- 
files, and  the  rough  tracts  about  their  neigh- 
borhood, having  been  lurking-places  for  the 
predatory  hordes  of  the  mountains,  and  scenes 
of  rough  encounter  with  Crows  and  Blackfeet. 
It  was  to  the  west  of  these  mountains,  in  the 
valley  of  the  Seeds-ke-dee  Agie,  or  Green 
River,  that  Captain  Bonneville  intended  to 
make  a  halt,  for  the  purpose  of  giving  repose  to 
his  people  and  his  horses,  after  their  weary 
journeying ;  and  of  collecting  information  as 
to  his  future  course.  This  Green  River  Valley 
and  its  intermediate  neighborhood,  as  we  have 
already  observed,  formed  the  main  point  of 
rendezvous,  for  the  present  year,  of  the  rival 


The  Wind  River  Mountains. 

Steel  engiavitiii. 


'     .  I 


\    Vi 


^ 


I   'I 


t 


'ivr.  J  - 


I 


!    \ 


.?! 


iiipi      i^iiiii mm 


erki 

o 


l» 


m 


a 


'Jf. 


B  Stras  fjorae 


fur  companies,  and  the  motley  populace, 
civilized  and  savage,  connected  with  them. 
Several  days  of  rugged  travel,  however,  yet 
remained  for  the  captain  and  his  men,  before 
they  should  encamp  in  this  desired  resting- 
place. 

On  the  2ist  of  July,  as  they  were  pursuing 
their  course  through  one  of  the  me&dows  of 
the  Sweet  Water,  they  beheld  a  horse  grazing 
at  a  little  distance.  He  showed  no  alarm  at 
their  approach,  but  suffered  himself  quietly  to 
be  taken,  evincing  a  perfect  state  of  tameness. 
The  scouts  of  the  party  were  instantly  on  the 
lookout  for  the  owners  of  this  animal  ;  lest 
some  dangerous  band  of  savages  might  be  lurk- 
ing in  the  vicinity.  After  a  narrow  search, 
they  discovered  the  trail  of  an  Indian  party, 
which  had  evidently  passed  through  that  neigh- 
borhood but  recently.  The  horse  was  accord- 
ingly taken  possession  of,  as  an  estraj' ;  but  a 
more  vigilant  watch  than  usual  was  kept  round 
the  camps  at  nights,  lest  his  former  owners 
should  be  upon  the  prowl. 

The  travellers  had  now  attained  so  high  an 
elevation,  that  on  the  23d  of  July,  at  daybreak, 
there  was  considerable  ice  in  the  water-buckets, 
and  the  thermometer  stood  at  twenty-two  de- 
grees. The  rarity  of  the  atmosphere  continued 
to  affect  the  wood-work  of  the  wagons,  and 


% 


A  m 


!  ■ 


I' 


^^^t-i^mmrKmm^smsf^' 


.  ,it'.!i 


!i 


i'J 


H 


Tn. 


58 


JSonncvtllc's  BOvcnturee 


the  wheels  were  incessantly  falling  to  pieces.  A 
remedy  was  at  length  devised.  The  tire  of 
each  wheel  was  taken  off ;  a  band  of  wood  was 
nailed  round  the  exterior  of  the  felloes,  the  tire 
was  then  made  red  hot,  replaced  rounc'  the 
wheel,  and  suddenly  cooled  with  water.  By 
this  means,  the  whole  was  bound  together  with 
great  compactness. 

The  extreme  elevation  of  these  great  steppes, 
which  range  along  the  feet  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, takes  away  from  the  seeming  height  of 
their  peaks,  which  yield  to  few  in  the  known 
world  in  point  of  ailitude  above  the  level  of  the 
sea. 

On  the  24th,  the  travellers  took  final  leave  of 
the  Sweet  Water,  and  keeping  westwardly,  over 
a  low  and  very  rocky  ridge,  one  of  the  most 
southern  spurs  of  the  Wind  River  Mountains, 
they  encamped,  after  a  march  of  seven  hours 
and  a  half,  on  the  banks  of  a  small  clear  stream, 
running  to  the  south,  in  which  they  caught  a 
number  of  fine  trout. 

The  sight  of  these  fish  was  hailed  with  pleas- 
ure, as  a  sign  that  they  had  reached  the  waters 
which  flow  into  the  Pacific  ;  for  it  is  onlj'  on 
the  western  streams  of  the  Rocky  Mountains 
that  trout  are  to  be  taken.  The  stream  on 
which  they  had  thus  encamped,  proved,  in 
effect,  to  be  tributary  to  the  Seeds-ke-dee  Agie, 


4 


;-^^    /? 


:SJ\^X 


■r'-i  -  ,^"  ws"*,*.^ 


t 


Green  Hivev  Ualle^ 


or  Green  River,  into  which  it  flowed,  at  some 
distance  to  the  south. 

Captain  Bonneville  now  considered  himself 
as  having  fairly  passed  the  crest  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  ;  and  felt  some  degree  of  exultation 
in  being  the  first  individual  that  had  crossed, 
north  of  the  settled  provinces  of  Mexico,  from 
the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  to  those  of  the  Pa- 
cific, with  wagons.  Mr.  William  Sublette,  the 
enterprising  leader  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur 
Company  had,  two  or  three  years  previously, 
reached  the  valley  of  the  Wind  River,  which 
lies  on  the  northeast  of  the  mountains  ;  but  had 
proceeded  with  them  no  farther. 

A  vast  valley  now  spread  itself  before  the 
travellers,  bounded  on  one  side  by  the  Wind 
River  Mountains,  and  to  the  west,  by  a  long 
range  of  high  hills.  This,  Captain  Bonneville 
was  assured  by  a  veteran  hunter  in  his  com- 
pany, was  the  great  valley  of  the  Seeds-ke-dee  ; 
and  the  same  informant  would  fain  have  per- 
suaded him,  that  a  small  stream,  three  feet 
deep,  which  he  came  to  on  the  25th,  was  that 
river.  The  captain  was  convinced,  however, 
that  the  stream  was  too  insignificant  to  drain 
•SO  wide  a  valley  and  the  adjacent  mountains  : 
he  encamped,  therefore,  at  an  early  hour,  on  its 
borders,  that  he  might  take  the  whole  of  the 
next  day  to  reach  the  main  river  ;  which  he 


(4 


4  «»i 


'«<i 


m 


.-.j'^^&mii^--  "■"■ 


V    1i 

I 

t 


lil 


I     ; 


I! 


I 


^^^^^^^''Ti/; 


60 


asonneville'6  BDventurea 


presumed  to  flow  between  him  and  the  distant 
range  of  western  hills. 

On  the  26th  of  July,  he  commenced  his  march 
at  an  early  hour,  making  directly  across  the 
valley,  towards  the  hills  in  the  west ;  proceed- 
ing at  as  brisk  a  rate  as  the  jaded  condition 
of  his  horses  would  permit.  About  eleven 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  a  great  cloud  of  dust 
was  descried  in  the  rear,  advancing  directly  on 
the  trail  of  the  party.  The  alarm  was  given  ; 
they  all  came  to  a  halt,  and  held  a  council  of 
war.  Some  conjectured  that  the  band  of  Indi- 
ans, whose  trail  they  had  discovered  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  stray  horse,  had  been  ly- 
ing in  wait  for  them,  in  some  secret  fastness  of 
the  mountains  ;  and  were  about  to  attack  them 
on  the  open  plain,  where  they  would  have  no 
shelter.  Preparations  were  immediatelj'  made 
for  defense  ;  and  a  scouting  party  sent  off  to 
recomioitre.  They  soon  came  galloping  back, 
making  signals  that  all  was  well.  The  cloud 
of  dust  was  made  by  a  band  of  fifty  or  sixty 
moutited  trappers,  belonging  to  the  American 
Fur  Company,  who  soon  came  up,  leading 
their  pack-horses.  They  were  headed  by  Mr. 
Fontenelle,  an  experienced  leader,  or  "parti- 
san," as  a  chief  of  a  party  is  called,  in  the 
technical  language  of  the  trappers. 

Mr.  Fontenelle  informed  Captain  Bonneville, 


T^V- 


<?o? 


^ 


-m 


1 


*>T^ 


j2o 


^^ 


'Kn. 


m 


yj 


Ik 


^^: 


tfoutenelle  anD  bid  parts 


6r 


that  he  was  on  his  way  from  the  company's 
trading  post  on  the  Yellowstone,  to  the  yearly 
rendezvous,  willi  reinforcements  and  supplies 
for  their  hunting  and  trading  parties  beyond 
the  mountains  ;  and  that  he  expected  to  meet, 
by  appointment,  with  a  band  of  free  trappers 
in  that  very  neighborhood.  He  had  fallen 
upon  the  trail  of  Captain  Bonneville's  party, 
just  after  leaving  the  Nebraska  ;  and,  finding 
tliat  they  had  frightened  off  all  the  game,  had 
been  obliged  to  push  on.  bj-  forced  marches,  to 
avoid  famine  ;  both  men  and  horses  were, 
therefore,  much  travel-worn  ;  but  this  was  no 
place  to  halt  ;  the  plain  before  them,  he  said, 
was  destitute  of  grass  and  water,  neither  of 
which  woulci  ':.e  met  with  short  of  the  Green 
River,  which  was  yet  at  a  considerable  distance. 
He  hoped,  he  added,  as  his  party  were  all  on 
horseback,  to  reach  the  river,  with  hard  travel- 
ling, bv  nightfall  ;  but  he  doubted  the  possi- 
bility of  Captain  Bonneville's  arrival  there  with 
his  wagons  before  the  day  following.  Having 
imparted  this  information,  he  pushed  forward 
with  all  speed. 

Captain  Bonneville  followed  on  as  fast  as  cir- 
cumstances would  permit.  The  ground  was 
firm  and  gravelly  ;  but  the  horses  were  too 
much  fatigued  to  move  rapidly.  After  a  long 
and  harassing  day's  march,  without  pausing 


^ 


^■S 


^^v^^ 


^    V 


rii 


f^a^. 


Mh** 


'f 


I 


ill 


i 


:     i 


ii'-V.J^rS.l't^^ 


,■■■  iO 


63 


:iBonncvUle'd  adventures 


for  a  noontide  meal,  they  were  compelled,  at 
nine  o'clock  at  night,  to  encamp  in  an  open 
plain,  destitute  of  water  or  pasturage.  On  the 
following  morning,  the  horses  were  turned 
loose  at  the  peep  of  day  ;  to  slake  their  thirst, 
if  possible,  from  the  dew  collected  on  the  sparse 
grass,  here  and  there  springing  up  among  dry 
sand-banks.  The  soil  of  a  great  part  of  this 
Green  River  Valley  is  a  whitish  clay,  into 
which  the  rain  cannot  penetrate,  but  which 
dries  and  cracks  with  the  sun.  In  some  places 
►''v.A) .  it  produces  a  .salt  weed,  and  grass  along  the  mar- 
gins of  the  streams  ;  but  the  wilder  expanses 
of  it  are  desolate  and  barren.  It  was  not  initil 
noon  that  Captain  Bonneville  reached  the 
banks  of  the  Seeds-ke-dee,  or  Colorado  of  the 
West  ;  in  the  meantime,  the  sufterings  of  both 
men  and  horses  had  been  excessive,  and  it  was 
with  almost  frantic  eagerness  that  they  hurried 
to  allay  their  burning  thirst  in  the  limpid  cur- 
rent of  the  river. 

Fontenelle  and  his  party  had  not  fared  much 
l?<i  better  ;  the  chief  part  had  managed  to  reach 
the  river  by  nightfall,  but  were  nearly  knocked 
up  by  the  exertion  :  the  horses  of  others  sank 
under  them,  and  they  were  obliged  to  pass  the 
night  upon  the  road. 

On  the  following  morning,  July  27th,  Fon- 
tenelle moved  his  camp  across  the  river  ;  while 


^ 


■vL 


p. 


J^^ 


I  StratcflS  of  tbc  JFur  CraDc 


v'l'.' 


Captain  Bonneville  proceeded  some  little  dis- 
tance below,  where  there  was  a  small  but  fresh 
meadow,  j-ielding  abundant  pasturage.  Here 
the  poor  jaded  horses  were  turned  out  to  graze, 
and  take  their  rest :  the  weary  journey  up  the 
mountains  had  won\  them  down  in  flesh  and 
spirit  ;  but  this  last  mar^^h  across  the  thirsty 
plain  had  nearly  finished  ilieni. 

The  captain  had  here  the  first  taste  of  the 
boasted  strategy  of  the  fur  trade.  During  his 
brief,  but  .social  encampment,  in  company  with 
Fontenelle,  that  experienced  trapper  had  man- 
aged to  win  over  a  numbe"  of  Delaware  In- 
dians whom  the  captain  had  brought  witli  him, 
by  offering  them  four  hundred  dollars  each,  for 
the  ensuing  autunnial  hunt.  The  captain  was 
somewhat  astonished  when  he  saw  these  hun- 
ters, o!i  wliose  services  he  had  calculated  se- 
curely, suddenly  pack  up  their  traps,  and  go 
over  to  the  rival  camp.  That  he  might,  in 
some  measure,  however,  be  even  with  his  com- 
petitor, he  dispatched  t^'-o  .scouts  to  look  out 
for  the  band  of  free  trappers  who  were  to  meet 
Fontenelle  in  this  neigliborhood,  and  to  en- 
deavor to  britig  them  to  his  camp. 

As  it  would  be  nece.ssar}-  to  remain  some 
time  in  this  neighborhood,  that  both  men  and 
horses  might  repo.se  and  recruit  their  .strength  ; 
and  as  it  was  a  region  full  of  danger,  Captain 


:U:f  ii.i'r 


i     i 


\:    , 


I  III 


LU 


JSonneviKe'd  B?>v?»""rcs 


Bonneville  proceeded  to  »^iiiiy  his  camp  with 
breastworks  of  logs  and  pickets. 

These  precautions  were,  at  that  time,  pecu- 
liarly necessary,  from  the  bands  of  Blackfeet 
Indians  which  were  roving  about  the  neighbor- 
hood. These  savages  are  the  most  dangerous 
banditti  of  the  mountains,  and  the  inveterate 
foe  of  the  trappers.  They  are  Ishmaelites  of 
the  first  order  ;  always  with  weapon  in  hand, 
ready  for  action.  The  young  braves  of  the 
tribe,  who  are  destitute  of  property,  go  to  war 
for  boot}'  ;  to  gain  horses,  and  acquire  the 
means  of  setting  up  a  lodge,  supporting  a 
family,  and  entitling  themselves  to  a  seat  in 
the  public  councils.  The  veteran  warriors 
fight  merely  for  the  love  of  the  thing,  and  the 
consequence  which  success  gives  them  among 
their  people. 

They  are  capital  horsemen,  and  are  generally 
well  mounted  on  short,  stout  horses,  similar  to 
the  prairie  ponies,  to  be  met  with  at  St.  Louis. 
When  on  a  war  party,  however,  thej'  go  on 
foot,  to  enable  them  to  skulk  through  the 
country  with  greater  .secrecy  ;  to  keep  in  thick- 
ets and  ravines,  and  use  more  adroit  subter- 
fuges and  stratagems.  Their  mode  of  warfare 
is  entirely  by  ambush,  surprise,  and  sudden 
assaults  in  the  night  time.  If  they  succeed  in 
causing  a  panic,  they  dash  forward  with  a  head- 


;-;5^.«?#ir,«T:#r«tr^-S,!^;^jsr*;^^aTiri^-.^ 


fe' 


m 


t^ 


MacMect  InOiane 


65 


long  fury  :  if  the  enemy  is  on  the  alert,  and 
shows  no  signs  of  fear,  they  become  wary  and 
deliberate  in  their  movements. 

Some  of  them  are  armed  in  the  primitive 
style,  with  bows  and  arrows  ;  the  greater  part 
have  American  fusees,  made  after  the  fashion 
of  those  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  These 
they  procure  at  the  trading  post  of  the  Ameri- 
can Fur  Company,  on  Marias  River,  where 
they  traffic  their  peltries  for  arms,  ammuni- 
tion, clothing,  and  trinkets.  They  are  ex- 
tremely fond  of  spirituous  liquors  and  tobacco  ; 
for  which  nuisances  they  are  readj'  to  ex- 
change, not  merely  their  guns  and  horses,  but 
even  their  wives  and  daughters.  As  they  are 
a  treacherous  race,  and  have  cherished  a  lurk- 
ijig  hostility  to  the  whites  ever  since  one  of  their 
tribe  was  killed  by  Mr.  Lewis,  the  associate  of 
General  Clarke,  in  his  exploring  expedition 
across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  American 
Fur  Company  is  obliged  constantly  to  keep  at 
that  post  a  garrison  of  sixty  or  seventy  men. 

Under  the  general  name  of  Black  feet,  are 
comprehended  several  tribes  :  such  as  the  Sur- 
cies,  the  Peagans,  the  Blood  Indians,  and  the 
Gros  Ventres  of  the  Prairies  :  who  roam  about 
the  southern  branches  of  the  Yellowstone  and 
Missouri  rivers,  together  with  some  other  tribes 
further  north. 

VOL.  I.— S 


J 


ll       II 


)   I 


V 


»'ltMiWllMiiMww<»»<'y^s':;a.^^ 


j!-.!'I',s 


w 


66 


><^x 


'^.yML, 


:iSoiinevUle'd  BOPcntures 


: 


f  ; 


i! 


J 


^v 


^-i 


tl  ^ 


v^^ 


..4 


? 


The  bands  infesting  the  Witid  River  Moun- 
tains, and  the  conntrj'  adjacent,  at  the  time  of 
which  we  are  treating,  were  Gros  Ventres  0/ 
the  Prairies,  which  are  not  to  he  confounded 
with  Gros  Ventres  0/  the  Jl/issouri,  who  keep 
about  the  /ower  part  of  that  river,  and  are 
friendly  to  the  men. 

This  hostile  band  keeps  about  the  head- 
waters of  the  Missouri,  and  numbers  about 
nine  hundred  fighting  men.  Once  in  thecour.se 
of  two  or  three  years  they  abandon  their  usual 
abodes,  and  make  a  visit  to  tlie  Arapahoes  of 
the  Arkansas.  Their  route  lies  either  through 
the  Crow  country,  and  the  Black  Hills,  or 
through  the  lands  of  the  Nez  Perces,  Flatheads, 
Bannacks,  and  Shoshonies.  As  they  enjoy 
their  favorite  state  of  hostilitj'  with  all  these 
tribes,  their  expeditions  are  prone  to  be  con- 
ducted in  thv  most  lawless  and  predator}'  style  ; 
nor  do  they  hesitate  to  extend  their  maraudings 
to  any  party  of  white  men  they  meet  with  ; 
following  their  trails  ;  hovering  about  their 
camps  ;  waylaying  and  dogging  the  caravans 
of  the  free  traders,  and  murdering  the  solitary 
trapper.  The  consequences  are,  frequent  and 
desperate  fights  between  them  and  the  "  moun- 
taineers," in  the  wild  defiles  and  fastnesses  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  band  in  que.stion  was,  at  this  time,  on 


oJ!n 


a 


».  >.-.^tf^,,^-.. 


^1^-^^, 


:-'.,'-t 


JSlact;(eet  InOiana 


■^   '%afi^"'^j 


67 


their  way  homeward  from  one  of  their  custom- 
ary visits  to  the  Arapalioes  ;  and  in  the  ensuing 
chapter,  we  shall  treat  of  some  bloody  encoun- 
ters between  them  and  the  trappers,  which  had 
taken  place  just  before  the  arrival  of  Captain 
Bonneville  among  the  mountains. 


\  '  i 


2lA.^ 


?f 


,/ii 


.^'-.'-t.. 


"ife:rTT"?rs^s!p^ 


, 


i.il, 


I 


? 


Cbaptcr  m, 

Sublette  and  his  Band — Robert  Cambell — Mr.  Wyeth 
and  a  Rand  of "  Down-Easters  " — Yankee  Enter- 
prise— Kitzpatrick — His  Adventure  with  the  Black- 
feet — A  RendezA'ous  of  Mountaineers — The  Battle  of 
Pierre's  Hole — An  Indian  Ambuscade — Sublette's 
Return. 

LEAVING  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  band 
ensconced  within  their  fortified  camp  in 
the  Green  River  Valley,  we  shall  step 
back  and  accompany  a  party  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Fur  Company  in  its  progress,  with 
supplies  from  St.  Louis,  to  the  annual  rendez- 
vous at  Pierre's  Hole.  This  party  consisted 
of  sixty  men,  well  mounted,  and  conducting  a 
line  of  pack-hor.ses.  They  were  commanded 
by  Captain  Williatn  Sublette,  a  partner  in  the 
company,  and  one  of  the  most  active,  intrepid, 
and  renowned  leaders  in  this  half-military  kind 
of  service.  He  was  accompanied  bj'  his  associ- 
ate in  business,  and  tried  companion  in  danger, 
Mr.  Robert  Campbell,  one  of  the  pioneers  of 

68 


V 


x^i 


\^, 


B 


m 


i^. 


/^    "S 


i 


'^v^» 


"a^- 


DowiisEastcrs ' 


the  trade  bej-ond  the  mountains,  who  had  com- 
luaiided  trapping  parties  there  in  times  of  the 
greatest  peril. 

As  these  worthy  compeers  were  on  their 
route  to  the  frontier,  they  fell  in  with  another 
expedition,  likewise  on  its  waj'  to  the  moun- 
tains. This  was  a  party  of  regular  "  Down- 
easters, "  that  is  to  .say,  people  of  New  England, 
who,  with  the  all-penetrating  and  all-pervading 
spirit  of  their  race,  were  now  pushing  their 
way  into  a  new  field  of  enterprise,  with  which 
they  were  totally  unacquainted.  The  party 
had  been  fitted  out,  and  was  maintained  and 
commanded  by  Mr.  Nathaniel  J.  Wyeth,  of 
Boston.*  This  gentleman  had  conceived  an 
idea,  that  a  profitable  fishery  for  salmon  might 
be  established  on  the  Columliia  River,  and  con- 
nected with  the  fur  trade.  He  had,  accordingly, 
invested  capital  in  goods,  calculated,  as  hesup- 
po.sed,  for  the  Indian  trade,  and  had  enlisted  a 
number  of  Eastern  men  in  his  employ,  who 
had  never  been  in  the  Far  West,  nor  knew  any- 
thing of  the  wilderness.  With  these,  he  was 
bravely  .steering  his  way  acro.ss  the  continent, 
undismayed  b}-  danger,  difficulty,  or  distance, 
in  the  same  way  that  a  New  England  coaster 

*  111  the  former  editions  of  this  work  we  have  erro- 
neously given  this  enterprising  individual  the  title  of 
captain. 


.c 


^'   w 


;■■ 


•KS-":' 


■u 


«  . 

'it 

(I 
ft 


ii  \ 


a  i 


'-•4, 


;,i 


f 


,ii 


tllljll  lj[.Mn^<lli|l 


.  y  .n 


'   ! 


Ill 


11 


'W 


70 


3Bonncville*5  aftventurcs 


l.M 


^^V      and  his  neighbors  will  coolly  launch  forth  on  a 
voyage  to  the  Black  Sea,  or  a  whaling  cruise 
to  the  Pacific. 
^V*  With  all  their  national  aptitude  at  expedient 

and  resource,  Wyeth  and  his  men  felt  them- 
selves completel}'  at  a  loss  when  thej-  reached 
.  \  !» j  the  frontier,  and  found  that  the  wilderness  re- 
quired experience  and  habitudes  of  which  they 
were  totally  deficient.  Not  one  of  the  party, 
excepting  the  leader,  had  ever  .seen  an  Indian 
or  handled  a  rifle  ;  they  were  without  guide  or 
interpreter,  and  totally  unacquainted  with 
"  wood  craft,"  and  the  modes  of  making  their 
way  among  savage  hordes,  and  .subsisting  them- 
selves during  long  marches  over  wild  moun- 
tains and  barren  plains. 

In  this  predicament.  Captain  vSublette  found 
them,  in  a  manner  becalmed,  or  rather  run 
aground,  at  the  little  frontier  town  of  Inde- 
pendence, in  Mi.ssouri,  and  kindly  took  them 
in  tow.  The  two  parties  travelled  amicably 
together  ;  the  frontier  men  of  Sublette's  party 
gave  their  Yankee  comrades  some  lessons  in 
hunting,  and  some  insight  into  the  art  and 
J-        mystery  of  dealing  with  the  Indians,  and  they      \I^ 

all    arrived    without    accident    at    the   upper      V''^v\ 
fy-,      branches  of  the  Nebraska  or  Platte  River.  ,  \\ 

In  the  course  of  their  march,  Mr.  l-'itzpatrick,      ^\^^ 
the  partner  of  the  company  who  was  resident    ^S^," 


fe 


; 


■^.p 


"^* 


X''--^T--^Jm^'-^^irf< 


ir 


€ 


L*   »■ 


■  iTT  ifflffr 'W*' - '"^"^"^ 


I 


..^ 


_^y.. 


h':- 


at  that  time  beyond  the  mountains,  came  down 
from  the  rendezvous  at  Pierre's  Hole  to  meet 
them,  and  hurry  them  forward.  He  trav.illed 
in  company  with  them  until  they  reaclu.d  the 
Sweet  Water  ;  then  taking  a  couple  of  horses, 
one  for  the  saddle,  and  the  other  a:s  a  pack- 
horse,  he  started  off  express  for  Pierre's  Hole, 
to  make  arrangements  against  their  arrival, 
that  he  might  commence  his  hunting  campaign 
before  the  rival  company. 

Fitzpatrick  was  a  hardy  and  experienced 
mountaineer,  and  knew  all  the  passes  and  de- 
files. As  he  was  pursuing  his  lonely  course 
up  the  Green  River  Valley,  he  descried  several 
horsemen  at  a  distance,  and  came  to  a  halt  to 
reconnoitre.  He  supposed  them  to  be  some 
detachment  from  the  rendezvous,  or  a  party 
of  friendly  Indians.  They  perceived  him,  and 
setting  up  the  war-whoop,  dashed  forward  at 
full  speed :  he  saw  at  once  his  mistake  and 
his  peril — Ihey  were  Blackfeet.  vSpriiiging 
upon  hi;;  fleetest  horse,  and  abandoning  the 
other  to  the  enemy,  he  made  for  the  moun- 
tains, and  succeeded  in  escaping  up  one  of  the 
most  ilangerous  defiles.  Here  he  concealed 
himself  until  he  thought  the  Indians  had  gone 
off",  when  he  returned  into  the  valley.  He  was 
again  pursued,  lost  his  remaining  horse,  and 
only   escaped   by   scrambling    up   among   the 


(rr^^v^^M**** 


';,■•■>. 


I     ll 


I'-i 


^«C 


.J-4-.'tf'.'.M*"J 


il 


t„   .*. 


H 


is 


IM 


It 


JBonnevlllc's  aovcnturcs 


cliffs.  For  several  days  he  remained  lurking 
among  rocks  and  precipices,  and  almost  fam- 
ished, having  but  one  remaining  charge  in  his 
ri.le,  which  he  kept  for  self-defense. 

In  the  meantime,  Sublette  and  Campbell, 
with  their  fellow-traveller,  Wyeth,  had  pursued 
their  march  umnolested,  and  arrived  in  the 
Green  River  Valley,  totally  unconscious  that 
there  was  any  lurking  enemy  at  hand.  They 
had  encamped  one  night  on  the  banks  of  a 
small  stream,  which  came  down  from  the  Wind 
River  Mountains,  when  about  midnight,  a 
band  of  Indians  burst  upon  their  camp,  with 
horrible  yells  and  whoops,  and  a  discharge  of 
guns  and  arrows.  Hrppiiy  no  other  harm 
was  done  than  wounding  one  mule,  and  caus- 
ing several  horses  to  break  loose  from  their 
pickets.  The  camp  was  in.stantly  in  arms  ; 
but  the  Indians  retreated  with  yells  of  exulta- 
tion, carrying  off  several  of  the  horses,  under 
covert  of  the  night. 

This  was  somewhat  of  a  disagreeable  fore- 
taste of  mountain  life  to  some  of  Wyeth's  ban  1, 
accustomed  only  to  the  regular  and  peaceful 
life  of  New  England  ;  nor  was  it  altogether  to 
the  taste  of  Captain  vSublette's  men,  who  were 
chiefly  Creoles  and  townsmen  from  St.  Louis. 
They  continued  their  march  the  next  morning, 
keeping  scouts  ahead  and  upon  their  flanks, 


'V, 


•?  .  ;: 


f 


sv 


gM^     ■  '"•r-J 


..:,v:«A»^' 


i--' 


^f^^^ 


Pierre's  t)ole 


73 


and  arrived  without  further  molestation  at 
Pierre's  Hole. 

The  first  inquiry  of  Captain  Sublette,  on 
reaching  the  rendezvous,  was  for  Fitzpatrick. 
He  had  not  arrived,  nor  had  any  intelligence 
been  received  concerning  him.  Great  uneasi- 
ness was  now  entertained,  lest  he  should  have 
fallen  into  the  hands  of  the  Blackfeet,  who  had 
made  the  midnight  attack  upon  the  camp.  It 
was  a  matter  of  general  joy,  therefore,  when 
he  made  his  appearance,  conducted  by  two  half- 
breed  Iroquois  hunters.  He  had  lurked  for 
several  days  among  the  mountaMis,  until  almost 
starved  ;  at  length  he  escaped  the  vigilance  of 
his  enemies  in  the  night,  and  was  so  fortunate 
as  to  meet  the  two  Iroquois  hunters,  who,  be- 
ing on  horseback,  conveyed  him  without  further 
difficulty  to  the  rendezvous.  He  arrived  there 
so  emaciated  that  he  could  scarcely  be  recog- 
nized, 

Tlie  valley  culled  Pierre's  Hole  is  about 
thirty  miles  in  length  and  fifteen  in  width, 
bounded  to  the  west  and  south  by  low  and 
l)roken  ridges,  and  overlooked  to  the  east  by 
three  lofty  mountains,  called  the  three  Tetons, 
which  domineer  as  landmarks  over  a  vast  ex- 
tent of  country. 

A  fine  stream,  fed  by  rivulets  and  mountain 
springs,  pours  through  the  valley  towards  the 


,M 


■1 


"••4 


\ 


' 


I* 


'■i^,-.dMWW'ir»- 


"WSW"!?**' 


M|;i 


.  :r    ■' 


:  i  { 

-    V, 


fli 


] 


'M^^^'^-- 


tl 


t^ 


-^ 


74 


JBonncvUIe's  BDvcnturcs 


north,  dividing  it  into  nearly  equal  parts.  The 
meadows  on  its  borders  are  broad  and  extensive, 
covered  with  willow  and  cotton-wood  trees,  so 
closely  interlocked  and  matted  together,  as  to 
be  nearly  impassable. 

In  this  valley  was  congregated  the  motley 
populace  connected  with  the  fur  trade.  Here 
the  two  rival  companies  had  their  encanip- 
meiits,  witlv  their  retainers  of  all  kinds  ;  traders, 
trajipers,  hunters,  and  half-breeds,  assembled 
from  all  quarters,  awaiting  their  yearly  sup- 
jilies,  and  their  orders  to  start  off  in  new  direc- 
tions. Here,  also,  the  savage  tribes  connected 
with  the  trade,  the  Nez  Perces  or  Chopunnish 
Indians,  and  Flatheads,  had  pitched  their 
lodgings  beside  the  streams,  and  with  their 
squaws  awaited  the  distribution  of  goods  and 
finery.  There  was,  moreover,  a  band  of  fifteen 
free  trappers,  commanded  by  a  gallant  leader 
from  Arkansas,  named  Sinclair,  who  held  Iheir 
encampment  a  little  apart  from  the  rest.  Such 
was  the  wild  and  heterogeneous  a.s.senii)lage, 
anumnting  to  several  hundred  men,  civilized 
and  savage,  distributed  in  tents  and  lodges  in 
the  several  camps. 

The  arrival  of  Captain  Sublette  with  .supplies 
put  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company  in  full 
activity.  The  wares  and  merchandise  were 
quickly  opened,  and  as  quickly  dispo.sed  of  to 


'^<^  .-"^tV:^ 


■'&^^^^m^md^m 


^^ 


/ 


n 


Sublette's  JSridaOe 


£51 


(L 


^l 


trappers  and  Indians  ;  the  usual  excitement 
and  revelry  took  place,  after  which,  all  hands 
began  to  disperse  to  their  several  destinations. 
On  the  17th  of  July,  a  small  brigade  of  four- 
teen trappers,  led  by  Milton  Sublette,  brother 
of  the  captain,  set  out  with  the  intention  of 
proceeding  to  the  southwest.  They  were  ac- 
companied by  Sinclair  and  his  fifteen  free  trap- 
pers ;  Wyeth,  also,  and  his  New  England  band 
of  beaver  hunters  and  salmon  fishers,  now 
dwindled  down  to  eleven,  took  this  opportunity 
to  prosecute  their  cruise  in  the  wilderness, 
accompanied  with  such  experienced  pilots. 
On  the  first  day,  the}-  proceeded  about  eiglit 
miles  to  the  southeast,  and  encamped  for  the 
night,  still  in  the  valley  of  Pierre's  Hole.  On 
the  following  morning,  just  as  they  were  rais- 
ing their  camp,  they  observed  a  long  line  of 
people  pouring  down  a  defile  of  the  mountains. 
They  at  first  supposed  them  to  be  Fontenelle 
and  his  party,  whose  arrival  had  been  daily 
expected.  Wyeth,  however,  reconnoitered 
them  with  a  spj--glass,  and  soon  perceived 
they  v.'cre  Indians.  They  were  divided  into 
two  parties,  forming,  in  the  whole,  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  persons,  men,  womtn,  and 
children.  Some  were  on  horseback,  fantasti- 
cally painted  and  arrayed,  with  scarlet  blankets 

fluttering  in  llie  wind.     The  greater  part,  how- 

i 

■  'V 


I    !l 


i(  i 


-2227- 


m 


•il'.dl-Ji 


it 


II 


^: 


76 


JSonncviKc's  BOvcitturcs 


ever,  were  011  foot.  They  had  perceived  the 
trappers  before  they  were  themselves  dis- 
covered, and  came  down  j-elling  and  whooping 
into  the  plain.  On  nearer  approach,  they 
were  ascertained  to  be  Blackfeet. 

One  of  the  trappers  of  Sublette's  brigade, 
a  half-breed,  named  Antoine  Godin,  now 
mounted  his  ho'-se,  and  rode  forth  as  if  to  hold 
a  conference.  He  was  the  son  of  an  Iroquois 
hunter,  who  had  been  cruelly  murdered  by  the 
Blackfeet  at  a  small  stream  below  the  moun- 
tains, which  still  bears  his  name.  In  company 
with  Antoine  rode  forth  a  Flathead  Indian, 
whose  once  powerful  tribe  had  been  completely 
broken  down  in  their  wars  with  the  Blackfeet. 
Both  of  them,  therefore,  cherished  the  most 
vengeful  hostility  against  these  marauders  of 
the  mountains.  The  Blackfeet  came  to  a  halt. 
One  of  the  chiefs  advanced  singly  and  un- 
armed, bearing  the  pipe  of  peace.  This  over- 
ture was  certainly  pacific  ;  but  Antoine  and 
the  Flathead  were  predisposed  to  hostility,  and 
pretended  to  consider  it  a  treacherous  move- 
ment. 

"Is  your  piece  cliarged  ?  "  said  Antoine, 
to  his  red  companion. 

"It  is." 

"  Then  cock  it,  and  follow  me." 

They  met  tlie  Blackfoot  chief  half-way,  who 


% 


^ 


„_  C  r  ^Sf^  .^, 


2^ 


1% 


m:-' 


n 

'A 


^^f^^p'f^f'^^-^'-^^^'^^ 


£ncountcr  wltb  tbc  JSlachfcct 

extended   his    hand    in    friendship, 
grasped  it. 

"Fire!"  cried  he. 

The  Flathead  levelled  his  piece,  and  brought 
the  Blackfoot  to  the  ground.  Antoine  snatched 
off  his  .scarlet  blanket,  which  was  richly  orna- 
mented, and  galloped  off  with  it  as  a  trophy  to 
the  camp,  the  bullets  of  the  enemy  whistling 
after  him.  The  Indians  immediately  threw 
themselves  into  the  edge  of  a  swamp,  among 
willows  and  cotton-wood  trees,  interwoven  with 
vines.  Here  they  began  to  fortify  themselves  ; 
the  women  digging  a  trench,  and  throwing  up 
a  breastwork  of  logs  and  branches,  deep  hid  in 
the  bosom  of  the  wood,  while  the  warriors  .skir- 
mished at  the  edge  to  keep  the  trappers  at  bay. 

The  latter  took  their  station  in  a  ravine  in 
front,  whence  they  kept  up  a  .scattering  fire. 
As  to  Wyeth,  and  his  little  band  of  "  Down- 
easters,"  they  were  perfectly  astounded  by 
this  second  specimen  of  life  in  the  wilderne.ss  ; 
the  men,  being  especially  iniu.sed  to  bush- 
fighting  and  the  use  of  the  rifle,  were  at  a.  lo.ss 
how  to  proceed.  Wyeth,  however,  acted  as  a 
skilful  connnander.  He  got  all  his  hor.ses  into 
camp  and  .secured  them  ;  then,  making  a 
breastwork  of  his  packs  of  goods,  he  charged 
his  men  to  remain  in  garrison,  and  not  stir  out 
of  their  fort.     For  himself,  he  mingled  with 


.^^ifc^CV 


.''r 


, 


l"-'i 


n 


\) 


\ 


'**4.  ' 


I 


\\ 


'^T' 


Ml 


I.,         <v 


')[ 


Il 


ft' 


II 


78 


,  rf^f'^in  .^^\  )::''^ .  ■  ±'  ^J. 


3BonnevUIc'd  Bdvcntures 


the  other  leaders,  determined  to  take  his  share 
ill  the  conflict. 

In  the  meantime,  an  express  had  been  sent 
off  to  the  rendezvous  for  reinforcements.  Cap- 
tain Sublette,  and  his  associate,  Campbell, 
were  at  their  camp  when  the  express  came 
galloping  across  the  plain,  waving  his  cap,  and 
giving  the  alarm  :  "  Blackfeet  !  Blackfeet  !  a 
fight  in  the  upper  part  of  the  valley  ! — to  arms  ! 
to  arms  !  " 

The  alarm  was  passed  from  camp  to  camp. 
It  was  a  common  cause.  livery  one  turned 
out  with  horse  and  rifle.  The  Nez  Perces  and 
Flatheads  joined.  As  fast  as  horsemen  could 
arm  and  mount  they  galloped  off ;  the  valley 
was  soon  alive  with  white  men  and  red  men 
scouring  at  full  speed. 

Sul)lette  ordered  his  men  to  keep  to  the 
camp,  being  recruits  from  St.  Louis,  and  un- 
used to  Indian  warfare.  He  and  his  friend 
Campbell  prepared  for  action.  Throwing  off 
their  coats,  rolling  up  their  sleeves,  and  arm- 
ing themselves  with  pistols  and  rifles,  they 
mounted  their  horses  and  dashed  forward 
among  the  first.  As  they  rode  along,  they 
made  their  wills  in  soldier-like  style  ;  each 
stating  how  his  effects  should  be  disposed  of 
in  case  of  his  death,  and  appointing  the  other 
his  executor. 


:J 


K    /I 


^Z'-^' 


^^*«4iCO»^£^A 


o 


'AV 


^cK^ii;;?" 


*, 


^^/J 


'^V\ 


f 


l^i\;i>i 


# 


l)^Si  ^!ytVCX^-J?i?  i*  U&.i^ 


3Bu0b«yidbtind 


79 


The  Blackfeet  warriors  had  supposed  the 
brigade  of  Milton  Sublette  all  the  foe  they  had 
to  deal  with,  and  were  astonished  to  behold 
the  whole  valley  suddenly  swarming  with 
horsemen,  galloping  to  the  field  of  action. 
They  withdrew  into  their  fort,  which  was 
completely  hid  from  sight  in  the  dark  and 
tangled  wood.  Most  of  their  women  and  chil- 
dren had  retreated  to  the  mountains.  The 
trappers  now  sallied  forth  and  approached  the 
swamp,  firing  into  the  thickets  at  random  ; 
the  IMackfeet  had  a  better  sight  at  their  adver- 
saries, who  were  in  the  open  field,  and  a  half- 
breed  was  wounded  in  the  shoulder. 

When  Captain  Sublette  arrived,  he  urged  to 
penetrate  the  swamp  and  storm  the  fort,  but  all 
hung  back  in  awe  of  the  dismal  horrors  of  the 
place,  and  the  danger  of  attacking  such  des- 
peradoes in  their  savage  den.  The  ver\'  Indian 
allies,  though  accustomed  to  bush-fighting, 
regarded  it  as  almost  impenetrable,  and  full  of 
frightful  danger.  Sublette  was  not  to  be  turned 
from  his  purpose,  but  offered  to  lead  the  way 
into  the  swamp.  Campbell  stepped  forward 
to  accompany  him.  Before  entering  the  peril- 
ous wood,  Sublette  took  his  brothers  aside, 
and  told  them  that  in  case  he  fell,  Campbell, 
who  knew  his  will,  was  to  be  his  executor. 
This  done,  he  grasped  his  rifle  and  pushed  into 


'  -^jf^y- 


■WMQ 


w^ 


S^Xci^ 


,<5 


^rbx 


•>\ 


'M 


^l!:Si! 


«f  , 


I   ^     \' 


t 

if 
Pi  ' 


•4,  '■ 


f 


n 


'  .  tit...  <i 


I 


llj 


V 


j^ 


JBoniicviUc'd  Bdventurcd 


ex 


the  tliickets,  fi)llo\ved  by  Campbell.  Sinclair, 
the  partisan  from  Arkansas,  was  at  the  edge  of 
the  wood  with  his  brother  and  a  few  of  his 
men.  Kxcited  by  the  gallant  example  of  the 
two  friends,  he  pressed  forward  to  share  their 
dangers. 

The  swamp  was  produced  by  the  labors  of 
the  beaver,  which,  by  damming  up  a  stream, 
had  itnuidated  a  portion  of  the  valley  The 
place  was  all  overgrown  with  woods  and  thick- 
ets, so  closely  matted  and  entangled  that  it 
was  impossible  to  see  ten  paces  ahead,  and  the 
three  associates  in  peril  had  to  crawl  along,  one 
after  another,  making  their  way  by  putting  the 
branches  and  vines  aside  ;  l)ut  doing  it  with 
caution,  lest  they  should  attract  the  eye  of 
some  lurking  marksman.  They  took  the  lead 
by  turns,  each  advancing  about  twenty  yards 
at  a  time,  and  now  and  then  hallooing  to  their 
men  to  follow.  Some  of  the  latter  gradually 
entered  the  swamp,  and  followed  a  little  dis- 
tance in  the  rear. 

They  had  now  reached  a  more  open  pai  t  of 
the  wood,  and  had  glimpses  of  the  rude  fortress 
from  between  the  trees.  It  was  a  mere  breast- 
work, as  we  have  said,  of  logs  and  branches, 
with  blankets,  buffalo  robes,  and  the  leathern 
covers  of  lodges,  extended  round  the  top  as  a 
screen.     The  movements  of   the  leaders,   as 


'U 


h 


AW/ 


Bttach  on  tbc  llnMan  ffort 


they  groped  their  way,  had  been  descried  by  L,y 
the  sharp-sighted  enemy.  As  Sinclair,  who 
was  in  the  advance,  was  putting  some  branches 
aside,  he  was  shot  through  the  body.  He  fell 
on  the  spot.  "  Take  me  to  my  brother,"  said 
he  to  Campbell.  The  latter  gave  him  in  charge 
to  some  of  the  men,  who  conveyed  him  out  of 
the  swamp. 

Sublette  now  took  the  advance.  As  he  was 
reconnoitering  the  fort,  he  perceived  an  Indian 
peeping  through  an  aperture.  In  an  instant 
his  rifle  was  levelled  and  discharged,  and  the 
ball  struck  the  savage  in  the  eye.  While  he 
was  reloading,  he  called  to  Campbell,  and 
pointed  out  to  him  the  hole  ;  "  Watch  that 
place,"  said  he,  "and  you  will  soon  have  a 
fair  chance  for  a  shot."  Scarce  had  he  uttered 
the  words,  when  a  ball  struck  him  in  the  shoul- 
der, and  almost  wheeled  him  round.  His  first 
thought  was  to  take  hold  of  his  arm  with  his 
other  hand,  and  move  it  up  and  down.  He 
ascertained,  to  his  .satisfaction,  that  the  bone 
was  not  broken.  The  next  moment  he  was  .so 
faint  that  he  could  not  stand.  Campbell  took 
him  in  his  arms  and  carried  him  out  of  the 
thicket.  The  same  shot  that  struck  Sublette, 
wounded  another  man  in  the  head. 

A  brisk  fire  was  now  opened  by  the  moun- 
taineers from  the  wood,  answered  occasionally 

VOL.  I. — 6 


'••*« 


<'l; 


,%»,«-<.«•»«* 


»;.W.ti.'.i' 


T^^^tSm^S 


|i 


H 

'111!  J, 


ii<..  K 


s^-4^rh^^,i^yl,j^.y.:/^ry:,i:^f^^        ^?>,  )^^^^^7t^..^$>^7 


I 


\ 

1 

1 

1 

E 

,f 

1i 


\ 


III 


83 


JBonncville's  BOvcntures 


from  the  fort.  Unluckily,  the  trappers  and 
their  allies,  in  searching  for  the  fort,  had  got 
scattered,  so  that  Wyeth,  and  a  number  of  Nez 
Perces,  approached  the  fort  on  the  northwest 
side,  while  others  did  the  same  on  the  opposite 
quarter.  A  cross-fire  thus  took  place,  which 
occasionally  did  mischief  to  friends  as  well  as 
foes.  An  Indian  was  .shot  down,  close  to 
Wyeth,  ])y  a  ball  which,  he  was  convinced, 
had  been  sped  from  the  rifle  of  a  trapper  on  the 
othei  side  of  the  fort. 

The  number  of  whites  and  their  Indian  allies, 
had  by  this  time  so  much  increased  by  arrivals 
from  the  rendezvous,  that  the  Black  feet  were 
completely  overmatched.  They  kept  doggedly 
in  their  fort,  however,  making  no  offer  of  sur- 
render. An  occasional  firing  into  the  brea.st- 
work  was  kept  up  dun'iig  the  day.  Now  and 
then,  one  of  the  Indian  allies,  in  bravado, 
would  rush  up  to  the  fort,  fire  over  the  ram- 
parts, tear  off  a  buffalo  robe  or  a  scarlet  blanket, 

CU^J    ^"'^  return  with  it  in  triumph  to  his  cimirades. 
A  V^    Most  of  the  savage  garrison  that  fell,  however, 

r;!^^     were   killed  in  the  first  part  of  the  attack. 

At  one  time  it  was  resolved  to  set  fire  to  the 
fort  ;  and  the  squaws  belonging  to  the  allies 
were  employed  to  collect  combustibles.  This, 
however,  was  abandoned  ;  the  Nez  Perces 
being  unwilling  to  destroy  the  robes  and  blan- 


,iS 


"i. 


V 


k 


c, 


<M 


Speecb  of  JBlachfect  Cbief 


83 


kets,  and  other  spoils  of  the  enemy,  which 
they  felt  sure  would  fall  into  their  hands. 

The  Indians,  when  fighting,  are  prone  to 
taunt  and  revile  each  other.  Duriwg  one  of 
the  pauses  of  the  battle,  the  voice  of  the 
Blackfeet   chief  was  heard. 

"So  long,"  said  he,  "as  we  had  powder 
and  ball,  we  fought  you  in  the  open  field  : 
when  those  were  spent,  we  retreated  here  to 
die  with  our  women  and  children.  You  may 
burn  us  in  our  fort ;  but,  stay  by  our  ashes, 
and  you  who  are  so  hungry  for  fighting,  will 
soon  have  enough.  There  are  four  hundred 
lodges  of  our  brethren  at  hand.  They  will 
soon  be  here — their  arms  are  strong — their 
hearts  are  big — they  will  avenge  us  !  " 

This  speech  was  translated  two  or  three 
times  by  Nez  Perce  and  Creole  interpreters. 
By  the  time  it  was  rendered  into  English,  the 
chief  was  made  to  .say,  that  four  hundred 
lodges  of  his  tribe  were  attacking  the  encamp- 
ment at  the  other  end  of  the  valley.  Every 
one  now  was  for  hurrying  to  the  defense  of  the 
rendezvous.  A  party  was  left  to  keep  watch 
upon  the  fort ;  the  rest  galloped  off  to  the  camp. 
As  night  came  on,  the  trappers  drew  out  of  the 
swamp,  and  remained  about  the  skirts  of  the 
wood.  By  morning,  their  companions  re- 
turned from  the  rendezvous,  with  the  report 


^ 


i^1 


'■*. 


i: 


li'ii 


m^ -««**•'- 


li' 


! 


II 


iM 


li 


^^y 


JBonncvfUc's  adventures 


that  all  was  safe.  As  the  day  opened,  thej' 
ventured  within  the  swamp  and  approached 
the  fort.  All  was  silent.  They  advanced  up 
to  it  without  opposition.  They  entered  :  it 
had  been  abandoned  in  the  night,  and  the 
Black  feet  had  effected  their  retreat,  carryiufj 
off  their  wounded  on  litters  made  of  branches, 
leaving  bloody  traces  on  the  herbage.  The 
bodies  of  ten  Indians  were  found  within  the 
fort  :  among  them  the  one  shot  in  the  eye  by 
vSublette.  The  Blackfeet  afterwards  reported 
that  they  had  lost  twenty-six  warriors  in  this 
battle.  Thirty-two  horses  were  likewise  found 
killed  ;  among  them  were  some  of  those  recently 
carried  off  from  Sublette's  party,  in  the  night ; 
which  showed  that  these  were  the  very  savages 
that  had  attacked  him.  They  proved  to  be  an 
advanced  party  of  the  main  body  of  Blackfeet, 
which  had  been  upon  the  trail  of  vSublette's 
party.  Five  white  men  and  one  half-breed 
were  killed,  and  several  wounded.  Seveti  of 
the  Xez  Perces  were  also  killed,  and  si.x 
wounded.  They  had  an  old  chief,  who  was 
reputed  as  invulnerable.  In  the  ccmrse  of  the 
action  he  was  hit  by  a  .spent  ball,  and  threw 
up  blood  ;  but  his  skin  was  unbroken.  His 
peo[)le  were  now  fully  convinced  that  he  was 
proof  against  powder  and  ball. 
A  striking  circumstance  is  related  as  having 


^ 


r^fe^^ 


y 


ycv. 


& 


C^ 


^ 


TDcvoUon  ot  a  Squaw  85 

occurred  the  morning  after  the  battle.  As 
some  of  the  trappers  and  their  Indian  allies 
were  approaching  the  fort,  through  the  woods, 
they  beheld  ati  Indian  woman,  of  noble  form 
and  features,  leaning  against  a  tree.  Their 
surprise  at  her  lingering  here  alone,  to  fall  into 
the  hands  of  her  enemies,  was  dispelled,  when 
they  saw  the  corpse  of  a  warrior  at  her  feet. 
Either  she  was  so  lost  in  grief  as  not  to  perceive 
'^  r  -s  their  approach,  or  a  proud  spirit  kept  her 
(Tv-C^  silent  and  motionless.  The  Indians  .set  up  a 
JcK  yell,  on  discovering  her.  and  before  the  trap- 
pers could  interfere,  her  mangled  body  fell 
upon  the  corpse  which  she  had  refused  to 
abandon.  We  have  heard  the  anecdote  dis- 
credited by  one  of  the  leaders  who  had  l)een  in 
the  battle,  but  the  fact  may  have  taken  place 
without  his  seeing  it,  and  been  concealed  from 
him.  It  is  an  instance  of  female  devotion, 
e\  I'll  to  the  death,  which  we  are  well  dispo.sed 
to  believe  and  to  record. 

After  the  battle,  the  brigade  of  Milton 
Sul)lette,  together  with  the  free  trappers,  and 
Wyeth's  New  ICngland  band,  remained  some 
days  at  the  rendezvous,  to  .see  if  the  main  body 
of  Blackfeet  intended  to  make  an  attack  ; 
nothing  of  the  kind  occurring,  they  once  more 
put  themselves  in  motion,  and  proceeded  on 
their  route  towards  the  .southwest. 


c%!/W^ 


.^"^ 


I 


l^l 


'I 


.{ 


"1 

I  \ 

I  • 


'  s! 


li 
Ell  ' 


(I 


I 

I 


\ 


\\[ 


'i.  .  *k 


Mmiix''mSfi^: 


i 


ifMHH 


il 


■  I 


ft 


f 

» '^1 
t^% 

c.,::^ 


\^^^M 


^ 


86 


3BoniievUlc'5  BC»rcnturc0 


Captain  Sublette  having  distributed  hi.s  sup-  \Sl--4. 
plies,  had  intended  to  set  off  on  his  return  to  Vf^~ 
St.  Louis,  taking  with  him  the  peltries  col-  '■  '' 
lected  from  the  trappers  and  Indians.  His 
wound,  however,  obliged  him  to  postpone  liis 
departure.  Several  wlio  were  to  have  accom- 
panied him,  became  impatient  of  this  dela^'. 
Among  these  was  a  young  Bostonian,  Mr. 
Joseph  More,  one  of  the  followers  of  Mr. 
Wyeth,  who  had  seen  enough  of  mountain  life 
and  savage  warfare,  and  was  eager  to  return  to 
the  abodes  of  civilization.  He  and  six  others, 
among  whom  were  a  Mr.  Foy,  of  Missi.ssippi, 
Mr.  Alfred  K.  Stephens,  of  St.  Louis,  and  two 
grandsjMS  of  the  celebrated  Daniel  Boon,  set 
out  together,  in  advance  of  Sublette's  party, 
thinking  they  would  make  their  own  way 
through  the  mountains. 

It  was  just  five  days  after  the  battle  of  the 
swamj),  that  these  seven  companions  were  mak- 
ing their  way  through  Jackson's  Hole,  a  valley 
not  far  from  the  three  Tetons,  when,  as  they 
were  descending  a  hill,  a  party  of  Blackfeet 
that  la\-  in  ambush  started  up  with  terrific  yells. 
The  horse  of  the  young  Bostonian,  wlio  was 
in  front,  wheeled  round  with  affright,  and 
threw  his  unskilled  rider.  The  young  man 
.scrambled  up  the  side  of  the  hill,  but,  unac- 
customed to  such  wild  scenes,  lost  his  presence 


'*'^« 


-t^l---.^'-^:' 


*\v 


"^  ;". 


( 


I 


IRcturn  to  St.  louis  87 


of  mind,  and  stood,  as   if  paralyzed,  on   the 
edge  of  a   bank,  initil  the  Blackfeet  came  np 
and  slew  him  on  the  spot.     His  comrades  had 
fled  on  the  first  alarm  ;  but  two  of  them,  Foy 
and  Stephens,  seeing  his  danger,  paused  when 
they  had  got  half-way  up  the  hill,  turned  back, 
dismounted,    and  hastened  to   his   assistance. 
Foy    was  instantly  killed.     Stephens  was  se- 
verely wounded,  but  escaped,  to  die  five  day.'' 
afterwards.      The   survivors   returned    to   the 
camp  of  Captain  vSublette,  bringing  tidings  of 
this  new  disaster.     That  hardy  leader,  as  .soon 
as  he  could  bear   the  journey,  set  out  on  his 
return  to  St.  Louis,  accompanied  by  Campbell. 
As   they  had  a  number  of  pack-horses  richly 
laden    with  peltries  to  convoy,  they   chose   a 
different  route  through  the  mountains,  out  of 
the  way,  as  they  hoped,  of  the  lurking  bands 
of  Blackfeet.     The\   succeeded  in  making  the 
frontier  in  safety.     We  remember  to  have  seen 
them    with  their   band,    about   two    or   three 
months  afterwards,  passing  through  a  skirt  of 
woodland  in  the  upper  part  of  Missouri.    Their 
long    cavalcade    stretched     in    single    file    for 
nearly  half  a  mile.     Sublette  still  wore  his  arm 
in    a  sling.     The  mountaineers  in  their  rude 
hunting  dresses,  armed  with  rifles,  and  roughly 
mounted,  and  leading  their  pack-horses  down 
a  hill  of  the  forest,  looked  like  banditti  return- 


'^5^r;^^>jiiJs?^ 


A' 


<{ 


I-  I 


>     V 


'.'  > 


I 


•j 


'♦4, 


v 


->> 


V 


\\\ 


1(1 


'V'vgyjw*^'' 


i»*i 


>   i 


r-, 


0. 


}5 

if"  J 


iK? 


It^ 


Retreat  of  the  Blackfeet — Fontenelle's  Camp  in  Dan- 
ger— Captain  Bonneville  and  the  Blackfeet — Free 
Trappers — Their  Character,  Habits,  Dress,  F.quip- 
ments.  Horses — Game  Fellows  of  the  Mountains — 
Their  Visit  to  the  Camp— Good  Fellowship  and 
Good  Cheer — A  Carouse — A  Swagger,  a  Brawl,  and 
a  Reconciliation. 

THE  Blackfeet  warriors,  when  they  effected 
their  midnight  retreat  from  their  wild 
fastness  in  Pierre's  Hole,  fell  back  into 
the  valley  of  the  Seeds-ke-dee,  or  Green  River, 
where  they  joined  the  main  body  of  their  ban( 
The  whole  force  amonnted  to  several  luitidred 
fighting  men,  gloomy  and  exasperated  by  their 
late  disaster.  They  had  with  them  their  wives 
and  children,  which  incapacitated  them  for  any 
bold  and  extensive  enterprise  of  a  warlike  na- 
ture ;  but  when,  in  the  course  of  their  wander- 
ings, they  came  in  sight  of  the  encampment  of 
Fontenelle,  who  had  moved  some  distance  up 
Green  River  Valley  in  search  of  the  free  trap- 
pers, they  put  up  tremendous  war-cries,  and 


^'^^\'^i^:^. 
^5^:^;^^.^ 


m^i 


I 


•«« 


J!'!, 


''Ill 


1 


jv'' 


I  •; 


1 


\^-^f  'S  -^^  4^-'>\  cO«t^  ^h  ^  r.M  ^.^  -^y 


3BonncvUlc's  a£>rcnturc0 


V 


:^ 


n 


^""-jii"- 


advaiiced  fiercely  as  if  to  attack  it.  Second 
tlioughts  caused  them  to  moderate  their  fury. 
Tht'\-  recollected  the  severe  lesson  just  received, 
and  could  not  but  remark  the  strength  of  Fon- 
tenelle's  position,  which  had  been  chosen  with 
great  judgment. 

A  formal  talk  en.sued.  The  Blackfeet  said 
nothing  of  the  late  battle,  of  which  Fontenelle 
had  as  yet  received  no  accounts  ;  the  latter, 
however,  knew  the  hostile  and  perfidious  na- 
ture of  these  savages,  and  took  care  to  inform 
them  of  the  encampment  of  Captain  Bonne- 
ville, that  they  might  know  there  were  more 
white  men  in  the  neighborhood. 

The  conference  ended,  Fontenelle  sent  a 
Delaware  Indian  of  his  party  to  conduct  fif- 
teen of  the  Blackfeet  to  the  camp  of  Captain 
Bonneville.  There  were  at  that  time  two  Crow 
Indians  in  the  captain's  camp,  who  had  re- 
cently arrived  there.  They  looked  with  dis- 
may at  this  deputation  fnmi  their  implacable 
enemies,  and  gave  the  captain  a  terrible  char- 
acter of  them,  assuring  him  that  the  best  thing 
he  could  possibly  do,  was  to  put  those  Black- 
feet  deputies  to  death  on  the  .spot.  The  cap- 
tain, however,  who  had  heard  nothing  of  the 
conflict  at  Pierre's  Hole,  declined  all  compli- 
ance witli  this  sage  counsel.  He  treated  the 
grim  warriors  with  his  usual  urbanity.     They 


^ 


^>-^^  / 


-V: 


3§i- 


wm-..<^^^^^^ 


^ 

h.  ^ 


>-•* 


■X 


n 


4f 


rs*--:;  ft^ 


jfrcc  Crappcre 


passed  some  little  time  at  the  camp,  saw,  no 
doubt,  that  everything  was  conducted  with 
military  skill  and  vigilance,  and  that  such  an 
enem\-  was  not  to  be  easily  surprised,  nor  to 
be  molested  wi til  impunity,  and  then  departed, 
to  report  all  they  had  seen  to  tlieir  comrades. 

The  two  scouts  which  Captain  Bonneville 
had  sent  out  to  seek  for  the  band  of  free  trap- 
pers, expected  by  Fontenelle,  and  to  invite 
them  to  his  camp,  had  been  successful  in  their 
search,  and  on  the  12th  of  August  those  wor- 
thies made  tiieir  appearance.  To  explain  the 
meaning  of  the  appellation,  free  trapper,  it  is 
necessary  to  state  the  terms  on  which  the  men 
enlist  in  the  service  of  the  fur  companies.  Some 
have  regular  wages,  and  are  furnished  with 
weapons,  horses,  traps,  and  other  requisites. 
These  are  under  command,  and  bound  to  do 
every  duty  required  of  them  connected  with 
the  service  ;  such  as  hunting,  trapping,  load- 
ing and  unloading  the  horses,  moimting 
guard  ;  and,  in  short,  all  the  drudgery  of 
the  camp.     These  are  the  hired  trappers. 

The  free  trappers  are  a  more  independent 
class  ;  and  in  describing  them,  we  shall  do 
little  more  than  transcribe  the  graphic  descrip- 
tion of  them  by  Captain  Bonneville.  "They 
come  and  go,"  says  he,  "  when  and  where 
they  please  ;  provide  their  own  horses,  arms. 


u 


^i 


V-: 


:yi 


.■^■^ 


*^ 


;(,v 


I'  li. 


'*« 


Sf 


*«4,  ' 


* 

./); 


i 


'  I  ; 


X, 


i 
i 


■-■ — -"•I'l 


92 


JSonitevillc'd  aorcnturcs 


and  other  equipments  ;  trap  and  trade  on  their 
own  account,  and  dispose  of  their  skins  and 
peltries  to  the  highest  bidder.  Sometimes,  in 
a  dangerous  hunting  ground,  they  attach  them- 
selves to  the  camp  of  some  trader  for  protec- 
tion. Here  thej'  come  under  some  restrictions  ; 
the}'  have  to  conform  to  the  ordinary  rules  for 
trapping,  and  to  submit  to  such  restraints,  and 
to  take  part  in  such  general  duties,  as  are  es- 
tablished for  the  good  order  and  safety  of  the 
camp.  In  return  for  this  protection,  and  for 
their  camp  keeping,  they  are  bound  to  dispose 
of  all  the  beaver  they  take,  to  the  trader  who 
connnands  the  camp,  at  a  certain  rate  per  skin  ; 
or,  should  they  prefer  seeking  a  market  else- 
where, they  are  to  make  him  an  allowance,  of 
from  thirty  to  forty  dollars  for  the  whole  hunt. 
There  is  an  inferior  order,  who,  either  from 
prudence  or  poverty,  come  to  these  dangerous 
hunting  grounds  without  horses  or  acccutre- 
ments,  and  are  furnished  by  the  traders. 
These,  like  the  hired  trappers,  are  bound  to 
exert  themselves  to  the  utmost  in  taking 
beaver,  which,  without  .skinning,  they  render 
in  at  the  trader's  lodge,  where  a  stipulated 
price  for  each  is  placed  to  their  credit.  These, 
though  generally  included  in  the  generic  name 
of  free  trappers,  have  the  more  specific  title  of 
skin  trappers. 


v\ 


m 


\\  f 


-■v» 


;^\ 


l#3M^£^^E^© 


ere 


ZvamKxe'  lEqulpmcnts 


93 


The  wandering  wiiites  who  mingle  for  any 
length  of  time  with  the  savages,  have  invaria- 
bly a  proneness  to  adopt  savage  hai)itudes  ; 
but  none  more  so  than  the  free  trappers.  It  is 
a  matter  of  vanity  and  ambition  with  then;  to 
discard  everytliing  that  may  hear  the  stamp  of 
civilized  life,  and  to  adopt  the  manners,  habits, 
dress,  gesture,  and  even  walk  of  the  Indian. 
You  cannot  pay  a  free  trajiper  a  greater  com- 
pliment, than  to  persuade  him  you  have  mis- 
taken him  for  an  Indian  brave  ;  and,  in  truth, 
the  counterfeit  is  complete.  His  hair,  suffered 
to  attain  to  a  great  kMr^^th,  is  carefully  combed 
out,  and  either  left  to  fall  carelessly  over  his 
.shoulders,  or  plaited  neatly  and  tied  up  in  otter 
.skins,  or  parti-colored  ril)l)()!is.  A  hunting- 
shirt  of  ruffled  calico  of  bright  dyes,  or  of 
ornamented  leather,  falls  to  his  knees  ;  below 
which,  curicmsly  fashioned  leggins,  orna- 
mented with  slrings.  fringes,  and  a  profusion  of 
hawks'  bells,  reacli  to  a  cosily  pair  of  moc- 
casins of  the  finest  Indian  fabric,  richly  em- 
broidered with  beads.  A  I)lanket  of  .scarlet, 
or  some  other  bright  color,  hangs  from  his 
.shoulders,  and  is  girt  round  his  waist  with  a 
red  sash,  in  which  he  bestows  hi  j  pistols,  knife, 
and  the  ttem  of  his  Indian  pipe,  preparations 
for  peace  or  war.  His  gun  is  lavishly  deco- 
ated  with  brass  tacks  and  vermilion,  and  pro- 


< 


i\i.i 


j''"k 


:•  n 


It 


V      m 


•"•4 


./ 


(I 


I* 


i'( 


I 


1 1 


..'>i^' 


94 


3Bonncvtllc*0  BDvcnturcs 


!    ■' 


vided  with  a  fringed  cover,  occa.s'otially  of 
buckskin,  ornamented  here  and  there  with  a 
^*~vvufr  ft^!itli<-'r-  His  horse,  the  noble  minister  to  the 
^\K  pride,  pleasure,  and  profit  of  the  mountaineer, 
is  selected  for  his  speed  and  spirit,  and  prancing 
gait,  and  holds  a  place  in  his  estimation  second 
only  to  himself.  He  shares  largely  of  his 
bounty,  and  of  his  pride  and  pomp  of  trapping. 
He  is  caparisoned  in  the  most  dashing  and 
fantastic  style  ;  the  bridles  and  crupper  are 
weightily  embossed  with  beads  and  cockades  ; 
and  head,  mane,  and  tail  are  interwoven  with 
abundance  of  eagles'  plumes,  which  flutter  in 
the  wind.  To  complete  this  grotesque  equip- 
ment, the  proud  animal  is  bestreaked  and 
bespotted  with  vermilion,  or  with  white  clay, 
whichever  presents  the  most  glaring  contrast 
to  his  real  color. 

Such  is  the  account  given  by  Captain  Bon- 
neville of  the.se  rangers  of  the  wilderness,  and 
their  appearance  at  the  camp  was  strikingly 
characteristic.  They  came  dashing  forward 
at  full  .speed,  firing  their  fu.sees,  and  yelling 
in  Indian  style.  Their  dark  sunl)urnt  faces, 
and  long  flowing  hair,  their  leggins,  flaps, 
"*^j'  moccasins,  and  richly-dyed  i)lankets,  and  their 
painted  horses  gaudily  caparisoned,  gave  them 
so  much  the  air  and  appearance  of  Indians, 
that  it  was  difficult  to  pursuade  cue's  self  that 


I 


K 


ri 


\J 


^/P 


v.. 


V 


V 


V 


% 


fb^ 


i  y  *)  •i'jp  'j^  > » "^  ^^^<LS^^  j;*  J?  >  u\i.  ^ 


Cavaltcrd  o(  tbc  /l^ouiitniitd 


05 


they  were  white  men,  atul  had  been  brought 
up  in  civilized  life. 

Captain  Boniieville,  who  was  delighted  with 
the  game  look  of  these  cavaliers  of  the  moun- 
tains, welcomed  them  heartily  to  his  camp, 
and  ordered  a  free  allowance  of  grog  to  regale 
them,  which  soon  put  them  in  the  most  brag- 
gart spirit.  They  pronounced  the  captain  the 
finest  fellow  in  the  world,  and  his  men  all  hons 
garfotis,  jovial  lads,  and  swore  they  would  pass 
the  day  with  them.  They  did  so  ;  and  a  day 
it  was,  of  boast,  swagger,  and  rodomontade. 
The  prime  bullies  and  braves  among  the  free 
trappers  had  each  his  circle  of  novices,  from 
among  the  captain's  band  ;  mere  greenhorns, 
men  iniused  to  Ind:  iii  life  :  iinuii^utrs  tit'  lard, 
or  pork  eaters,  as  such  new-comers  are  super- 
ciliously called  by  the  veterans  of  the  wilder- 
ness. These  he  would  astonish  and  delight  by 
the  hour,  with  prodigious  tales  of  his  doings 
among  the  Indians  ;  and  of  the  wonders  he  had 
seen,  and  the  wonders  he  had  performed,  in  his 
adventurous  peregrinations  among  the  moun- 
tains. 

In  the  evening,  the  free  trapj^ers  drew  off,  and 
returned  to  the  camp  of  I'ontenelle,  highly 
delighted  with  their  visit  and  with  their  new 
acquaintances,  and  promising  to  return  the  fol- 
lowing day.     They  kept  their  word  :  day  after 


;;    ! 


If 


(I 


"i 


' 


']|j 


i 


'H 


(f 


f  i 


! 


3Bonncvinc's  BOvcnturce 


day  their  visits  were  repeated  ;  they  became 
"  hail  itllow  well  met "  with  Captain  Bonne- 
ville's men  ;  treat  af^er  treat  sncceeded,  until 
both  parties  got  most  potently'  convinced,  or 
rather  confounded,  by  liquor.  Now  came  on 
confusion  and  uproar.  The  free  trappers  were 
no  longer  suffered  to  have  all  the  swagger  to 
themselves.  The  camp  bullies  and  prime  trap- 
pers ;»f  the  party  began  to  ruffle  up,  and  to 
brag  in  turn,  of  their  perils  au'l  achievements. 
Each  now  tried  to  oiU-boast  and  out-talk  the 
other  ;  a  quarrel  ensued  as  a  matter  of  course, 
and  a  genera'  light,  according  to  frontier  usage. 
The  two  factions  drew  out  their  forces  for  a 
pitched  battle.  They  fell  to  work  and  be- 
labored each  other  with  might  and  main  ;  kicks 
and  cuffs  ard  dry  blows  were  as  well  bestowed 
a?j  'l:cy  .'.-.'ewell  merited,  mitil,  having  fought 
to  tiieir  iieart's  content,  and  been  drubbed  into 
a  familiar  '■  quaintance  with  each  other's 
pro^ves  and  good  qualities,  they  ended  the 
fight  by  becoming  firmer  friends  than  they 
could  have  been  rendered  by  a  year's  peacable 
companionship. 

While  Captain  Bonneville  amused  him.self  by 
observing  the  habits  and  characteristics  of  this 
singular  class  of  men,  and  indulged  them,  for 
the  time,  in  all  their  vagaries,  he  profited  by 
the  opportunity  to  collect  from  them  informa- 


^■ 


w 


JgtV 

IE' 


tion  concerning  the  difFerent  parts  of  the  coun- 
try about  which  they  had  been  accustomed  to 
range  ;  the  characters  of  the  tribes,  and,  in 
short,  everj-thing  important  to  his  enterprise. 
He  also  succeeded  in  securing  the  services  of 
several  to  guide  and  aid  him  in  his  peregrina- 
tions among  the  mountains,  and  to  trap  for  him  >>  ^ 
during  the  ensuing  season.  Having  strength- 
ened his  party  with  such  valuable  recruits,  he 
felt  in  some  measure  consoled  for  the  loss  of 
the  Delaware  Indians,  decoyed  from  him  by 
Mr.  Fontenelle. 

VdL.    I.— 7 


<9r- 


0 


AVvi 


■^ 


I    S     \ 


^-K 


'*M 


JWMSraSSBBIR 


mm 


^ 


mmm 


i! 


H 


Plans  for  the  Winter — Salmon  River — Abundance  of 
Salmon  West  of  the  Mountains — New  Arrange- 
ments— Caches — Cerr^'s  Detachment — Movements 
in  Fontenelle's  Camp — Departure  of  the  Blackfeet 
— Their  Fortunes — Wind  Mountain  Streams — Buck- 
eye, the  Delaware  Hunter,  and  the  Grizzly  Bear- 
Bones  of  Murdered  Travellers — Visit  to  Pierre's 
Hole — Traces  of  the  Battle — Nez  Perc6  Indians — 
Arrival  at  Salmon  River. 

THE  information  derived  from  the  free  trap- 
pers determined  Captain  Bonneville  as 
to  his  further  movements.  He  learnt 
that  in  the  Green  River  Valley  the  winters  were 
severe,  the  snow  frequently  falling  to  the  depth 
of  several  feet  ;  and  that  there  was  no  good 
wintering  ground  in  the  neighborhood.  The 
upper  part  of  Salmon  River  was  represented  as 
far  more  eligible,  besides  being  in  an  excellent 
beaver  country  ;  and  thither  the  captain  re- 
solved to  bend  his  course. 
The    Salmon    River    is  one  of   the  upper 


03 


/ 


^ 


(\\ 


'1' 


// 


1  '  -J 


^^\ 
N-;- 


V 


& 


branches  of  the  Oregon  or  Columbia  ;  and 
takes  its  rise  from  various  sources,  among  a 
group  of  mountains  to  the  northwest  of  the 
Wind  River  chain.  It  owes  its  name  to  the 
immense  shoals  of  salmon  which  ascend  it  in 
the  months  of  September  and  October.  The 
salmon  on  the  west  side  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains are,  like  the  buffalo  on  the  eastern  plains, 
vast  migratory  supplies  for  the  wants  of  man, 
that  come  and  go  with  the  seasons.  As  the 
buffalo  in  countless  throngs  find  their  certain 
way  in  the  transient  pasturage  on  the  prairies, 
along  the  fresh  banks  of  the  rivers,  and  up 
every  valley  and  green  defile  of  the  mountains, 
so  the  salmon,  at  their  allotted  seasons,  regu- 
lated by  a  sublime  and  all-seeing  Providence, 
swarm  in  myriads  up  the  great  rivers,  and  find 
their  way  up  thel/  main  branches,  and  into  the 
minutest  tributary  streams  ;  so  as  to  pervade 
the  great  arid  plains,  and  to  penetrate  even 
among  barren  mountains.  Thus  wandering 
tribes  are  fed  in  the  desert  places  of  the  wil- 
derness, where  there  is  no  herbage  for  the  ani- 
mals of  the  chase,  and  where,  but  for  these 
periodical  supplies,  it  would  be  impossible  for 
man  to  subsist. 

The  rapid  currents  of  the  rivers  which  run 
into  the  Pacific  render  the  ascent  of  them  very 
exhausting  to  the  salmon.     When  the  fish  first 


m 


\~y 


"MJ 


'*« 


s     V 


\\\ 


t 


MmRSBSSBBf^'- 


w 


li 


SC:^'<'~ 


'V\ 


:^' 


lOO 


JBonneville's  aoventurcs 


run  up  the  rivers,  they  are  fat  and  in  fine  or- 
der, The  struggle  against  impetuous  streams 
and  frequ'iut  rapids  gradually  renders  them 
thivi  ar,d  weak,  c.vd  great  numbers  are  seen 
floating  down  the  rivers  on  their  backs.  \s 
the  season  advances  and  tlie  water  becomes 
chilled,  they  are  flung  in  myriads  on  the  shores, 
where  the  wolves  and  bears  assemble  to  ban- 
quet on  them.  Often  they  rot  in  such  quanti- 
ties along  the  river  banks,  as  to  taint  the 
atmosphere.  They  are  commonly  from  two  to 
three  feet  long. 

Ci'.ptain  Bonneville  now  made  his  arrange- 
ments for  the  autumn  and  the  winter.  The 
nature  of  the  country  through  which  he  was 
about  to  tra\el  rendered  it  impossible  to  pro- 
ceed with  wagons.  He  had  more  goods  and 
supplies  of  various  kinds,  also,  than  were  re- 
quired for  present  purjioses,  or  than  could  be 
conveniently  transported  on  horseback  ;  aided, 
therefore,  by  a  few  confidential  men,  he  made 
caches,  or  .secret  pits,  during  the  night,  when 
all  the  rest  of  the  camp  were  asleep,  and  in 
these  deposited  the  superfluous  effects,  to- 
gether with  the  wagons.  All  traces  of  the 
caches  were  then  carefully  obliterated.  This  is 
a  common  expedient  with  the  traders  and 
trappers  of  the  mountains.  Having  no  estab- 
lished posts  and  magazines,  they  make  these 


0 


^ 


f-^ 


wi 


AWi 


Brrniidcmentd  for  tbe  Minter 


lOI 


caches  or  deposits  at  certain  points,  whither 
they  repair  occasionally,  for  supplies.  It  is  an 
expedient  dcived  from  the  wandering  tribes 
of  Indians. 

Many  of  the  horses  were  still  so  weak  and 
lame  as  to  be  unfit  for  a  long  scramble  through 
the  mountains.  These  were  collected  into  one 
cavalcade,  and  given  in  charge  to  an  experi- 
enced trapper,  of  the  name  of  Matthieu.  He 
was  to  proceed  westward,  with  a  brigade  of 
trappers,  to  Bear  River  ;  a  stream  to  the  west 
of  the  Green  River  or  Colorado,  where  there 
was  good  pasturage  for  the  horses.  In  this 
neighborhood  it  was  expected  he  would  meet 
the  Shoshonie  villages  or  bands,*  on  their 
yearly  migrations,  with  whom  he  was  to  trade 
for  peltries  and  provisions.  After  he  had 
traded  with  these  people,  fii:ished  his  trappings, 
and  recruited  the  strength  of  the  horses,  he 
was  to  proceed  to  vSalmon  River  ond  rejoin 
Captain  Bonneville,  who  intended  to  fix  his 
quarters  there  for  the  winter. 

*  A  vil/ai^e  of  Indians,  in  trappers'  lan,ijuage,  does 
not  always  iinj)ly  a  fixed  coinnmnity  ;  hut  often  a 
wandering  horde  or  band.  The  Shoshonies,  like  most 
of  the  mountain  tribes,  have  no  settled  residences ; 
but  are  a  nomadic  people,  dwelling  in  tents  or  lodj,;es, 
and  shifting  their  encampnit-nts  from  place  to  place, 
according  as  fish  and  game  abound. 


^n 

? 


^ 


<^ 


-tasii^^ 


^ 


:K 


f 


'1 


"1^ 


I. 


H 


'iiKl^^:::^^ 


fiH' 


3Bonncville'0  Bdventuree 


While  these  arrangements  were  in  progress 
in  the  camp  of  Captain  Bonneville,  there  was  a 
sudden  bustle  and  stir  in  the  camp  of  Fonte- 
nelle.  One  of  the  partners  of  the  American 
Fur  Company  had  arrived,  in  all  haste,  from 
the  rendezvous  at  Pierre's  Hole,  in  quest  of 
the  supplies.  The  competition  between  the 
two  rival  companies  was  just  now  at  its  height, 
and  prosecuted  with  unusual  zeal.  The  tra- 
montane concerns  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur 
Company  were  managed  by  two  resident  part- 
ners, Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger  ;  those  of  the 
American  Fur  Company,  by  Vanderburgh  and 
Dripps,  The  latter  were  ignorant  of  the 
mountain  regions,  but  trusted  to  make  up  by 
vigilance  and  activity  for  their  want  of  knowl- 
edge of  the  country. 


-i> 


V 


Fitzpatrick,  an  experienced  trader  and  trap-     V^-^r 
per,  knew  the  evils  of  competition  in  the  same    '"  ^'^^^ 
hunting  grounds,  and  had  proposed  that  the 
two  companies  should  divide  the  country,  so 
as  to  hunt  in  different  directions  :  this  propo- 
sition being  rejected,  he  had  exerted  himself 
to  get  first  into  the  field.     His  exertions,  as 
has  already  been  shown,  were  effectual.     The 
early  arrival  of  Sublette,   with  supplies,   had    ^'^ 
enabled    the   various   brigades   of   the   Rocky 
Mountain  Company  to  start  off  to  their  respec- 
tive  huuting    grounds.     Fitzpatrick    himself. 


r  ^■'- 


(fl 


,  ..^"^Kr^. 


■^,.^ 


:^f^'^V^7^' 


'i-"-— 4^  'tW>\:\ 


,  '^':1l 


f 


( 


tl! 


^7 


I 


J 


.^ 


ft 


(i 


^$ 


/  V 


^^ 


3  ^^'S^  V 


<k. 


> 


X^W^'&^  >'  ^'i  'i  O^'^^ 


Departure  of  TRival  Companies 


103 


with  his  associate,  Bridger,  had  pushed  off 
with  a  strong  party  of  trappers,  for  a  prime 
beaver  country  to  the  north-northwest. 

This  had  put  Vanderburgh  upon  his  mettle. 
He  had  hastened  on  to  meet  Fontenelle.  Find- 
ing him  at  his  camp  in  Green  River  Valley,  he 
immediately  furnished  himself  with  the  sup- 
plies ;  put  himself  at  the  head  of  the  free  trap- 
pers and  Delavvares,  and  set  off  with  all  speed, 
determined  to  follow  hard  upon  the  heels  of 
Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger.  Of  the  adventures  of 
these  parties  among  the  mountains,  and  the 
disastrous  effects  of  their  competition,  we  shall 
have  occasion  to  treat  in  a  future  chapter. 

Fontenelle  having  now  delivered  his  supplies 
and  accomplisbed  his  errand,  struck  his  tents 
and  set  off  on  his  return  to  the  Yellowstone. 
Captain  Bonneville  and  his  band,  therefore, 
remained  alone  in  the  Green  River  Valley  ; 
and  their  situation  might  have  been  perilous, 
had  the  Blackfeet  band  still  lingered  in  the 
vicinity.  Those  marauders,  however,  had 
been  dismayed  at  finding  so  many  resolute  and 
well-appointed  parties  of  white  men  in  this 
neighborhood.  They  had,  therefore,  aban- 
dtmed  this  part  of  the  country,  passing  over 
the  head-waters  of  the  Green  River,  and  bend- 
ing their  course  towards  the  Yellowstone. 
Misfortune   pursued   them.      Their   route   lay 


^^T'^"' 


¥$' 


,j^ 


i   1 


,it,  ! 


I    ^ 

!   ' 

ft 


Sr 


H 


I* 


!      S 


I 


t^        104 


aSonncvUlc's  BDrcnturcg 


through  the  countn*  of  their  deadly  enemies, 
the  Crows.  In  the  Wind  River  \^alley,  wliich 
lies  east  of  the  mountains,  they  were  encoun- 
tered l)y  a  powerful  war  party  of  that  tribe, 
and  completely  put  to  rout.  Forty  of  them 
were  killed,  many  of  their  women  and  children 
captured,  and  the  scattered  fugitives  hunted 
like  wild  beasts,  until  they  were  completely 
chased  out  of  the  Crow  conntry. 

On  the  2 2d  of  August  Captain  Bonneville 
broke  up  his  camp,  and  set  out  on  his  route  for 
Salmon  River.  His  baggage  was  arranged  in 
packs,  three  to  a  mule,  or  pack-horse  ;  one  be- 
ing disposed  on  each  side  of  the  animal,  and 
one  on  the  top;  the  three  forming  a  load  of 
from  one  hundred  and  eighty  to  two  hundred 
and  twenty  pounds.  This  is  the  trappers' 
style  of  loading  their  pack-horses  ;  his  men, 
however,  were  inexpert  at  adjusting  the  packs  ; 
which  were  prone  to  get  loose  and  slip  off ;  so 
that  it  was  necessary  to  keep  a  rear-guard  to 
assist  in  reloading.  A  few  days'  experience, 
however,  brought  them  itito  proper  training. 

Their  march  lay  up  the  valley  of  the  Seeds- 
ke-dee,  overlooked  to  the  right  by  the  loftx- 
peaks  of  the  Wind  River  Mountains.  From 
bright  little  lakes  and  fountain-heads  of  this 
remarkable  bed  of  mountains,  poured  forth  the 
tributary  streams  of  the  Seeds-ke-dee.     Some 


r-~. 


P 

i 


.  i, 


Ill 


I 


?•  :'-*j 


U' 


4 


.r 


tioch\>  fountain  Streams 


came  rushing  down  gullies  and  ravines  ;  others 
tumbling  in  crystal  cascades  from  inaccessible 
clefts  and  rocks,  and  others  winding  their  way 
in  rapid  and  pellucid  currents  across  the  valley, 
to  throw  themselves  into  the  main  river.  So 
transparent  were  these  waters,  that  the  trout 
with  which  they  abounded  could  be  seen  glid- 
ing about  as  if  in  the  air  ;  and  their  pebbly 
beds  were  distinctly  visible  at  the  depth  of 
many  feet.  This  beautiful  and  diaphanous 
quality  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  streams,  pre- 
vails for  a  long  time  after  the\'  have  mingled 
their  waters  and  swollen  into  important  rivers. 
Issuing  from  the  upper  part  of  the  valley. 
Captain  Bonneville  continued  to  the  east-north- 
east, across  rough  and  lofty  ridges,  and  deep 
rocky  defiles,  extremely  fatiguing  both  to  man 
and  horse.  Among  his  hunters  was  a  Dela- 
ware Indian  who  had  remi.  ^ed  faithful  to  him. 
His  name  was  Buckeye.  He  had  often  prided 
himself  on  his  skill  and  success  in  coping  with 
the  grizzly  liear,  that  terror  of  the  hunters. 
Though  crippled  in  the  left  arm,  he  declared  he 
had  no  hesitation  to  close  with  a  wounded  bear, 
and  attack  him  with  a  sword.  If  armed  with 
a  rifle,  he  was  willing  to  brave  the  animal  when 
in  full  force  and  fury.  He  had  twice  an  oppor- 
tunity of  proving  his  prowess,  in  the  course  of 
this  mountain  journey,  and  was  each  time  sue- 


<lj 


'O 


'"M 


'•-.4  : 


m 


"■^imMsmt-^ 


J 


'.i«...h 


/ 


H 


)i\. 


^ 


^-^ 


■v^Vi 


.V 


Monncvillc'6  aDrentures 


cessful.  His  mode  was  to  seat  himself  upon 
the  ground,  with  his  rifle  cocked  and  resting 
on  his  lame  arm.  Thus  prepared,  he  would 
await  the  approach  of  the  bear  with  perf-ct 
coolness,  nor  pull  trigger  until  he  was  close  at 
hand.  In  each  instance,  he  laid  the  monster 
dead  upon  the  spot. 

A  march  of  three  or  four  daj-s,  through  sav- 
age and  lonely  scenes,  brought  Captain  Bonne- 
ville to  the  fatal  defile  of  Jackson's  Hole,  where 
poor  More  and  Fov  had  been  surprised  and 
murdered  by  the  ii.ackfeet.  The  feelings  of 
the  captain  were  shocked  at  beholding  the 
bones  of  these  unfortunate  young  men  bleach- 
ing among  the  rocks ;  and  he  caused  them  to 
be  decently  interred. 

On  the  3d  of  September  he  arrived  on  the 
summit  of  a  mountain  which  commanded  a 
full  view  of  the  eventful  valley  of  Pierre's 
Hole  ;  whence  he  could  trace  the  windings  of 
its  stream  through  green  meadows  and  forests 
of  willow  and  cotton-wood,  and  have  a  pros- 
pect, between  distant  mountains,  of  the  lava 
plains  of  vSnake  River,  dimly  spread  forth  like 
a  sleeping  ocean  below. 

After  enjoying  this  magnificent  prospect,  he 
descended  into  the  valley,  and  visited  the 
scenes  of  the  late  desperate  conflict.  There 
were  the  remains  of  the  rude  fortress  in  the 


.:i 


<0W 


a 


fe 


■^ 

:>*■ 


^ 
\ 


■i\ 


\3 


I 


i 


i.^\i 


^,i 


^2^^i^ 


1)arDdbtpd  o(  TiSlinter  travelling 


107 


swamp,  shattered  by  rifle  shot,  and  strewed 
with  the  mingled  bones  of  savages  and  horses. 
There  was  the  late  populous  and  noisy  ren- 
dezvous, with  the  traces  of  trappers'  camps  and 
Indian  lodges ;  but  their  fires  were  extin- 
guished, the  motley  assemblage  of  trappers 
and  hunters,  white  traders  and  Indian  braves, 
had  all  dispersed  to  different  points  of  the  wil- 
derness, and  the  valley  had  relapsed  into  its 
pristine  solitude  and  silence. 

That  night  the  captain  encamped  upon  the 
battle  ground  ;  the  next  day  he  resumed  his 
toilsome  peregrinations  through  the  moun- 
tains. For  upwards  of  two  weeks  he  continued 
his  painful  march  ;  both  men  and  horses  suf- 
fering excessively  at  times  from  hunger  and 
thirst.  At  length,  on  the  19th  of  September, 
he  reached  the  upper  waters  of  Sahuon  River. 

The  weather  was  cold,  and  there  were  symp- 
toms of  an  impending  storm.  The  night  set 
in,  but  Buckeye,  the  Delaware  Indian,  was 
missing.  He  had  left  the  party  early  in  the 
morning,  to  hunt  by  himself,  according  to  his 
custom.  Fears  were  entertained  lest  he  should 
lose  his  way  and  become  bewildered  in  tempes- 
tuous weather.  These  fears  increased  on  the 
following  morning,  when  a  violent  snowstorm 
came  on,  which  soon  covered  the  earth  to  the 
depth  of  several  inches.     Captain    Bonneville 


V  n 


y^'^ 


I' 


I  > 


-1 

i 


■    *  if 

\        II 


1-^ 


"a 

'ill 


>'^.J.#p.JiHI . 


< 


lo8 


JBonncvtllc'a  BDvcntutcs 


immediately  encamped,  and  sent  out  scouts  in 
every  direction.  After  some  searcli  Huckeye 
was  di.scovered,  quietly  seated  at  a  consider- 
able distance  in  the  rear,  waiting  the  expected 
approach  of  the  party,  not  knowing  that  they 
had  passed,  the  snow  having  covered  their  trail. 

On  the  ensuing  m<irning  they  resumed  their 
march  at  an  early  hour,  but  had  not  proceeded 
fiir  when  the  hunters,  who  were  beating  up 
the  country  in  the  advance,  came  galloping 
back,  making  .signals  to  encamp,  and  crjing 
"  Indians  !  Indians  !  " 

Captain  Bonneville  immediatch  struck  into 
a  .skirt  of  wood  and  prepared  for  action.  The 
savages  were  now  seen  trooping  over  the  hills 
in  great  numbers.  One  of  them  left  the  main 
body  and  came  forward  singly,  making  .signals 
of  peace.  He  announced  them  as  a  band  of 
Nez  Perces*  or  Pierced-nosed  Indians,  friendly 
to  the  whites,  whereupon  an  invitation  was 
returned  by  Captain  Bonneville,  for  them  to 
come  and  encamp  with  him.  They  halted  for 
a  .short  time  to  make  their  toilette,  an  operation 
as  important  with  an  Indian  warrior  as  with  a 

*  We  sliDuld  observe  that  this  tribe  is  iiiiivcrsally 
called  by  its  I'riMich  name,  which  is  jjronouiiced  by 
the  trappers,  Xt'f^i'rcy.  There  are  two  main  branches 
of  this  tribe,  the  ii])per  Xepercys  and  the  lower  Ne- 
percys,  as  we  shall  show  hereafter. 


! 


,> 


f^l 


4: 


i 


'fi 


'V.-* 


109 


fashionable  beauty.  This  done,  thej'  arranged 
themselves  in  martial  style,  the  chiefs  leading 
the  van,  the  l)raves  following  in  a  long  line, 
painted  and  decorated,  and  topped  oft"  with 
fluttering  plumes.  In  this  way  they  advanced, 
shouting  and  singing,  firing  off  their  fusees, 
and  clashing  their  shields.  The  two  parties 
encamped  hard  by  each  other.  The  Nez  Per- 
ces  were  on  a  hunting  expedition,  but  had 
been  almost  famished  on  their  march.  They 
had  no  provisions  left  but  a  few  dried  salmon, 
yet  finding  the  white  men  equally  in  want, 
they  generously  offered  to  share  even  this 
meagre  pittance,  and  frequently  repeated  the 
offer,  with  an  earnestness  that  left  no  doubt 
of  their  sincerity.  Their  generosity  won  the 
heart  of  Captinn  Bonneville,  and  i)roduced  the 
most  cordial  good-will  on  the  part  of  his  men. 
For  two  days  that  the  parties  remained  in  com- 
pany, the  most  aniical)le  intercourse  prevailed, 
and  they  parted  the  best  of  friends.  Captain 
Botmeville  detached  a  few  men,  under  Mr. 
Cerre,  an  able  leader,  to  accompany  the  Nez 
Perces  on  their  hunting  expedition,  and  to 
trade  with  them  for  meat  for  the  winter's  sup- 
ply. After  this,  he  proceeded  down  the  river 
about  five  miles  below  the  forks,  when  he  came 
to  a  halt  on  the  26th  of  September,  to  establish 
his  winter  quarters. 


( 


ii 

I 


ir 


!!'! 


■i 


\  5. 


V 


I'   V 

.1  I 


i 


pi^-W  -!■'• 


Ill 


H 


ii...' 


1 


T^'^f^^.^np  ^/i  .<?r^.'^c 


; 


/ 


1,1    ii 


fi 


ry  ^'^'y  , ,  ^V"  la J?  ,j- 


4il*    -....-.-  -w_ 


Cbaptcr  UJ'. 

Horses  Turned  Loose— Preparations  for  Winter  Quar- 
ters— Hungry  Times— Nez  Percds,  their  Honesty, 
Piety,  Pacific  Habits,  Religious  Ceremonies — Cap- 
tain Bonneville's  Conversation  with  them — Their 
Love  of  Gambling. 


I 


mm 


T  was  gratifying  to  Captain  Bonneville, 
after  so  long  and  toilsome  a  course  of 
travel,  to  relieve  his  poor  jaded  horses  of 
the  burdens  under  which  they  were  almost 
ready  to  give  out,  and  to  behold  them  rolling 
upon  the  grass,  and  taking  a  long  repose  after 
all  their  sufferings.  Indeed,  so  exhausted 
were  they,  that  those  employed  under  the  sad- 
dle were  no  longer  capable  of  hunting  for  the 
daily  subsistence  of  the  camp. 

All  hands  now  set  to  work  to  prepare  a  win- 
ter cantonment.  A  temporary  fortification  was 
thrown  up  for  the  protection  of  the  party  ;  a 
secure  and  comfortable  pen,  into  which  the 
horses  could  be  driven  at  night ;  and  huts 
were  built  for  the  reception  of  the  merchandise. 


K 


■"s 


V  ^- 


^^ — 


,y 


.•■^ 


h'l't: 


'^ 


^u 


j)  >  1/  *^  ^'Hi.^'Jili'  J^  ^  '^'^^Xs<^  ^"^ 


ScardtB  of  iFooD 


III 


This  done,  Captain  Bonneville  made  a  dis- 
tribution of  his  forces  :  twenty  men  were  to 
remain  with  him  in  garrison  to  protect  the 
property  ;  the  rest  were  organized  into  three 
brigades,  and  sent  off  in  different  directions,  to 
subsist  themselves  in  hunting  the  buffalo,  until 
the  snow  should  become  too  deep. 

Indeed,  it  would  have  been  impossible  to 
provide  for  the  whole  party  in  this  neighbor- 
hood. It  was  at  the  extreme  western  limit 
of  the  buffalo  range,  and  these  animals  had 
recently  been  completely  hunted  out  of  the 
neighborhood  by  the  Nez  Perccs,  so  that,  al- 
though the  hunters  of  the  garrison  were  con- 
tinually on  the  alert,  ranging  the  country 
round,  they  brought  in  scarce  game  sufficient 
to  keep  famine  from  the  door.  Now  and  then 
there  was  a  scanty  meal  of  fisii  or  wild  fowl, 
occasionally  an  antelope  ;  but  frequently  the 
cravings  of  hunger  had  to  be  appeased  with 
roots,  or  the  flesh  of  wolves  and  muskrats. 
Rarely  could  the  itnnates  of  the  cantonment 
boast  of  having  made  a  full  meal,  and  never 
of  having  wherewithal  for  the  morrow.  In 
this  way  thej'  starved  along  until  the  8th  of 
October,  when  they  were  joined  by  a  party  of 
five  families  of  Nez  Perces,  who  in  some  mea.s- 
ure  reconciled  them  to  the  hardships  of  their 
situation,  by  exhibiting  a  lot  still  more  desti- 


\  .. 


li  V 


<t  i 


I 


i 


:  r  I 


■•  <• 


«M 


'^,     : 


I' I 


if    i 


\ 


<ii 


'I 


Ci* 


'€ 


3Bonncvtllc's  BDventurcs 


tute.  A  more  forlorn  set  thej-  had  never  en- 
countered :  they  had  not  a  morsel  of  meat  or 
fish  ;  nor  anything  to  subsist  on,  excepting 
roots,  wild  rosebuds,  the  barks  of  certain  plants, 
and  other  vegetable  productions  ;  neither  had 
they  any  weapon  for  hunting  or  defense,  ex- 
cepting an  old  spear  :  yet  the  poor  fellows  made 
no  murmur  nor  complaint  ;  bitt  seemed  accus- 
tomed to  their  hard  fare.  If  they  could  not 
teach  the  white  men  their  practical  stoicism, 
they  at  least  made  them  acquainted  with  the 
edible  properties  of  roots  and  wild  rosebuds, 
and  furnished  them  with  a  supply  from  their 
own  store.  The  necessities  of  the  camp  at 
length  became  so  urgent,  that  Captain  Bonne- 
ville determined  to  dispatch  a  party  to  the 
Horse  Prairie,  a  plain  to  the  north  of  his  can- 
tonment, to  procure  a  supply  of  provisions. 
When  the  men  were  about  to  depart,  he  pro- 
posed to  the  Nez  Perces  that  the}',  or  some  of 
them,  should  join  the  hunting  partj'.  To  his 
surprise,  they  promptly  declined.  He  inquired 
the  reason  for  their  refusal,  seeing  that  they 
were  in  nearly  as  .starving  a  .situation  as  his 
own  people.  They  replied  that  it  was  a  sacred 
day  with  them,  and  the  Great  Spirit  would  be 
angry  should  they  devote  it  to  hunting.  They 
offered,  however,  to  accompany  the  party  if 
it  would  delay  its  departure  until  the  following 


\y 


^^ 


<Zr 


UnDian  pragcre 


r 


day  ;  but  this  the  pinching  demands  of  hunger 
would  not  permit,  and  the  detachment  pro- 
ceeded. 

A  few  days  afterwards,  four  of  them  signified 
to  Captain  Bonneville  that  they  were  about  to 
hunt.  "What!"  exclaimed  he,  "without 
guns  or  arrows  ;  and  with  only  one  old  spear  ? 
What  do  you  expect  to  kill?"  They  smiled 
among  themselves,  but  made  no  answer.  Pre- 
paratory to  the  chase,  they  performed  some  <j^^ 
religious  rites,  and  offered  up  to  the  Great 
Spirit  a  few  .short  prayers  for  safety  and  sac- 
ce.ss  ;  then,  having  received  the  blessings  of 
their  wives,  they  leaped  upon  their  horses  and 
departed,  leaving  the  whole  party  of  Christian 
spectators  amazed  and  rebuked  by  this  lesson 
of  faith  antl  dependence  on  a  supreme  and 
benevolent  Being.  "Accustomed,"  adds  Cap- 
tain Bonneville,  "  as  I  had  heretofore  been,  to 
find  the  wretched  Indian  revelling  "n  blood,  and 
stained  by  every  vice  which  can  degrade  hu- 
man nature,  I  ccmld  scarcely  realize  the  scene 
which  I  had  witnessed.  Wonder  at  sucli  un-  ,. ^ 
affected  tenderness  and  piety,  where  it  was  ^fi^/"^ 
least  to  have  been  sought,  contended  in  all  our 
bosoms  with  .slianie  and  confusion,  at  receiving 
such  pure  and  wholesome  instructions  from 
creatures  so  far  below  us  in  all  the  arts  and 
comfi)rts  of  life."     The  .simple  prayers  of  the 

VOL.  1.— 8  _  "  ^ 

........  _^J^^, 


w 


'\ 


^^^^ 


ll   V 


\\  I 


\ 

1 


/ 
I     i 


<  ■•«. 


-K. 


( :  ll  J 


It 

«; 


1  n 


t-itittimmt3SKK^' 


...  \-^e>^^^'>^^- 


■•:>'•  !,!;■  •  — 


11  + 


3Bonnet>ille'd  BDventures 


C-^ 


poor  Indians  were  not  unheard.  In  the  course 
of  four  or  five  days  they  returned,  laden  with 
meat.  Captain  Bonneville  was  curious  to 
know  how  they  had  attained  such  success  with 
such  scanty  means.  They  gave  him  to  unu.r- 
stand  that  they  had  chased  the  herds  of 
buffalo  at  full  speed,  until  they  tired  them 
down,  when  they  easily  dispatclied  them  with 
the  spear,  and  made  use  of  the  same  weapon 
to  flay  the  carcasses.  To  carry  through  their 
lesson  to  their  Christian  friends,  the  poor 
savages  were  as  charitable  as  they  had  been 
pious,  and  generouslj'  shared  with  them  the 
spoils  of  their  hunting  ;  giving  them  food 
enough  to  last  for  several  days. 

A  further  and  more  intimateintercour.se  with 
yvvi,*  /  this  tribe  gave  Captain  Bonneville  still  greater 
cause  to  admire  their  strong  devotional  feeling. 
"  Simply  to  call  these  people  religious,"  .says 
he,  "  would  convey  but  a  faint  idea  of  the 
deep  hue  of  piety  and  devotion  which  pervades 
their  whole  coiiduct.  Their  honesty  is  innnac- 
iilatt,  and  their  purity  of  ])urpo.se,  and  their 
ob.servance  of  the  rites  of  their  religion,  are 
nio.it  uniform  and  remarkable.  They  are, 
certainly,  more  like  a  nation  of  saints  than  a 
horde  of  savages." 

In  fact,  the  anli-belligerent  policy  of  this 
tribe  may  have  sprung  from  the  doctrines  of 


rwSl^TQ^; 


m 


k 


m 


? 


^f% 


l^ 


:t: 


1 


Christian  charity,  for  it  would  appear  that  they 
had  imbibed  some  notions  of  the  Christian 
faith  from  Cathohc  missionaries  and  traders 
v'ho  had  been  among  them.  They  even  liad  a 
rude  calendar  of  tlie  fasts  and  festivals  of  the 
Romish  Church,  and  some  traces  of  its  cere- 
monials. These  have  become  blended  with 
their  own  wild  rites,  and  present  a  strange 
medley,  civilized  and  barbar  s.  On  the  Sab- 
bath, men,  women,  and  children  arraj-  them- 
selves in  their  best  style,  and  assemble  round 
a  pole  erected  at  the  head  of  the  camp.  Here 
they  go  through  a  wild  fantastic  ceremonial  ; 
strongly  resembling  the  religious  dance  of  the 
Shaking  Quakers  ;  but  from  its  enthusiasm, 
much  more  striking  and  impressive.  During 
the  intervals  of  the  ceremony  the  principal 
chiefs,  who  officiate  as  priests,  instruct  them  in 
their  duties,  and  exhort  them  to  virtue  and 
good  deeds. 

"There  is  something  antique  and  patri- 
archal," observes  Captain  IJonnevillc,  "  in  this 
union  of  the  offices  of  leader  and  priest ;  as 
there  is  in  many  of  their  customs  and  maimers, 
which  are  all  strongly  iml)ued  v  ith  religion." 

The  worthy  captain,  indeed,  appears  to  have 
been  strongly  interested  by  this  gleam  of  un- 
looked-for light  amidst  the  darkness  of  the 
wilderness.     He   exertetl   himself,   during   his 


t^s^^H/ 


'  ^"S 


!t  I 


•j 


^'  'i.^ 


f 


'I 


"III, 


5 
! 


.,f?S5r:..-^,  ■ 


-<^'^"r,SS 


3pttr: 


'^'^ii^ 


I 


!l 


e 


c 


i( 


\N 


ii6 


:)SonncvtlU'd  B£tvcnturee 


sojourn  among  this  simple  and  well-disposed 
people,  to  inculcate,  as  far  as  he  was  able,  the 
gentle  and  humanizing  precepts  of  the  Chris- 
tian faith,  and  to  make  them  acquainted  with 
the  leading  points  of  its  history  :  and  it  speaks 
highly  for  the  purity  and  benignity  of  liis 
heart,  that  he  deri\ed  unmixed  happiness  frona 
the  task. 

"Many  a  time,"  says  he,  "was  my  little 
lodge  thronged,  or  rather  piled  with  hearers, 
for  the\'  lay  on  the  ground,  one  leaning  over 
the  other,  luitil  there  was  no  further  room,  all 
listening  with  greedy  ears  to  the  wonders 
wiiicli  the  Cireat  vSpirit  had  revealed  to  the 
white  man.  Xo  »)tlier  subject  gave  them  half 
the  .satisfaction,  or  comnruided  half  the  atten- 
tion ;  and  but  few  scenes  in  my  life  remain  .so 
freshly  on  my  memory,  or  are  so  pleasurably 
recalled  to  my  contemplation,  as  these  hours  of 
intercourse  with  a  distant  and  benighted  race 
in  the  midst  of  the  desert." 

The  only  exce.sses  indulged  in  by  this  tem- 
perate and  exemplary  jieople,  appear  to  be 
gambling  and  horse-racing.  In  these  they 
engage  with  an  eagerness  that  amounts  to 
infatuation.  Knots  of  gamblers  will  assemble 
before  one  of  their  lodge  fires,  early  in  the 
evening,  and  remain  al)sorbed  in  the  chances 
and  changes  of  the  game  until  long  after  dawn 


^&^ 


'■<7\\ 


u 


"3 


'1 ' 


tf" 


f 


% 


^■^^;M^f^^^&MhP^'^^ 


(3ambUnd  and  fjorse^'Kacind 


117 


of  the  following  day.  As  night  advances, 
they  wax  warmer  and  warmer.  Bets  increase 
in  amount,  one  loss  only  serves  to  lead  to  a 
greater,  until  in  the  course  of  a  single  night's 
gambling,  the  richest  chief  may  become  the 
poorest  varlet  in  the  camp. 


ii. 


A^/ 


9 


.^•^ 


.1 


!,,  V 


(1 

I 

( 
•1 


! 


fcijii'?-.,' 


•yf^r^-SP  V''  r"^ 


'    I 


1,^* 


^bapter  i*. 

Blackfeet  in  the  Horse  Prairie — Search  after  the  Hun- 
ters— Difficulties  and  Dan<;ers— A  Card  Party  in  the 
Wilderness — The  Card  Party  Interrupted — "Old 
Sledj^e,"  a  Losinj^  Game — Visitors  to  the  Camp — 
Iroquois  Iluiitvrs — Hanj^inj^-Kared  Indians. 

ON  the  1 2th  of  October,  two  young  Indians  l^ 
of  tlie  Xez  Perce  tribe  arrived  at  Cap- 
tain Bonneville's  encampment.  They 
were  on  their  way  homeward,  but  had  been 
obliged  to  swerve  from  their  ordinary  route 
through  the  mountains,  by  deep  snows.  Their 
new  route  took  them  through  the  Horse  Prai- 
rie. In  traversing  it,  they  had  been  attracted 
by  the  distant  smoke  of  a  camp-fire,  and,  on 
stealing  near  to  reconnoitre,  had  discovered  a 
war  jtarty  of  Blackfeet.  They  had  .several 
horses  with  them  ;  and,  as  they  generally  go 
on  foot  on  warlike  excursions,  it  was  concluded 
that  these  horses  had  lieen  captured  in  the 
course  of  their  maraudings. 


.^ 


wPf 


MS 


■'tM'-'\V9^J^^S 


k 


->■ 


^^ 


S~^ 


^-iW, 


-.'<'0-i 


Scarcb  for  tbc  "Ibuntcrs 


119    ' 


This  intelligence  awakened  solicitude  on  the 
mind  of  Captain  Bonneville,  for  the  party  of 
hunters  whom  he  had  sent  to  that  neighbor- 
hood ;  and  the  Nez  Perces,  when  informed  of 
the  circumstance,  shook  their  heads,  and  de- 
clared the  belief  that  the  horses  they  had  seen 
had  been  stolen  from  that  very  party. 

Anxious  for  information  on  the  subject,  Cap- 
tain Boinieville  dispatched  two  hunters  to  beat 
lip  the  country  in  that  direction.  They  searched 
in  vain  ;  not  a  trace  of  the  men  could  be  found  ; 
but  they  got  into  a  region  destitute  of  game, 
where  they  were  wellnigh  famished.  At  one 
time,  they  were  three  entire  days  without  a 
mouthful  of  food  ;  at  length  they  beheld  a 
buffalo  grazing  at  the  foot  of  a  mounta  .  . 
After  manoeuvring  so  as  to  get  within  .shot, 
they  firetl,  l.nit  merely  wounded  him.  He  took 
to  flight,  and  they  followed  him  over  hill  and 
dale,  with  the  eagerness  and  perseverance  of 
starving  men.  A  more  lucky  shot  brought 
him  to  the  ground.  Stanfield  .sprang  upon 
him,  plunged  his  knife  into  his  throat,  and  al- 
layed his  raging  hunger  by  drinking  his  blood. 
A  fire  was  instantly  kindled  beside  the  carca.ss, 
when  the  two  hunter.;  cooked,  and  ate  again 
and  again,  until,  perfectly  gorgetl,  they  sank 
to  sleep  before  their  hunting  fire.  On  the  fi)l- 
lowing  morning  they  ro.se  early,  made  another 


6j.»*& 


:  f ;  1- 


/ 


(f! 


'%5,i,»JWBBW''' 


::x:,::*^iW:y 


I 


Oil 


11 


!i 


■  i 


f  »         ! 


11'  i 


■  f  i 


.J-  ^ 


-■, /25v.. . .^l*' ^ ^^ij^i^'^r^^\.    c\    ^'-i 


y:  «!?• 


'._.  "^*..J 


3ISonnev>i[[e's  B^\'eMtllre^ 


hearty  meal,  then  loading  themselves  with  buf- 
falo meat,  set  out  on  their  return  to  the  camp, 
to  report  the  fruitlessness  of  their  mission. 

At  length,  after  six  weeks'  absence,  the  hun- 
ters made  their  appearance,  and  were  receiveil 
with  joy,  proportioned  to  the  anxiety  that  had 
been  felt  on  their  account.  They  had  hunted 
with  success  on  the  prairie,  but,  while  busy  dry- 
ing buffalo  meat,  were  joined  by  a  few  panic- 
stricken  Flatheads,  who  informed  them  that  a 
powerful  band  of  Blackfeet  were  at  hand.  The 
hunters  immediately  abandoned  the  dangerous 
hunting-ground,  and  accompanied  the  Flat- 
heads  to  their  village.  Here  they  found  Mr. 
Cerre,  and  the  detachment  of  hunters  .sent 
with  him  to  accompany  the  hunting  party  of 
the  Xez  Perces. 

After  remaining  .some  time  at  the  village, 
until  they  suppo.sed  the  Blackfeet  to  have  left 
the  neighborhood,  they  set  off,  with  .some  of 
Mr.  Cerre's  men,  for  the  cantonment  of  Salmon 
River,  where  they  arrived  without  accident. 
Thej-  informed  Captain  Bonneville,  however, 
that,  not  far  from  his  quarters,  they  had  found 
a  wallet  of  fre.sh  meat  and  a  cord,  which  they 
supposed  had  been  left  by  some  prowling 
Blackfeet.  A  few  days  afterwards,  Mr.  Cerre. 
with  the  remainder  of  his  men,  likewi.se  ar- 
rived at  the  cantonment. 


^^\ 


cHS-r3Rtx>U^::^'^r=S. 


''^)Oti;iSi*i'r-'wi«.-v^'«' 


^  \ 


"B  CarO  partis  in  tbe  'QllUdentcdd 


Mr.  Walker,  one  of  the  subleaders,  who  had 
gone,  with  a  band  of  twenty  hunters,  to  range 
the  country  just  beyond  the  Horse  Prairie,  had, 
likewise,  his  share  of  adventures  with  the  all- 
pervading  Blackfeet.  At  one  of  his  encamp- 
ments, the  guard  stationed  to  keep  watch  round 
the  camp  grew  weary  of  their  duty,  and  feeliiig 
a  little  too  secure,  and  too  much  at  home  on 
these  prairies,  retired  to  a  small  grove  of  wil- 
lows, to  amuse  themselves  with  a  social  game 
of  cards,  called  "  old  sledge,"  which  is  as 
popular  among  the  trampers  of  the  prairies, 
«  u  as  whist  or  ecarte  among  the  polite  circles  of 
H/^  the  cities.  From  the  midst  of  their  sport,  they 
were  suddenly  roused  by  a  discharge  of  fire- 
arms, and  a  shrill  war-whoop.  Starting  on 
their  feet,  and  snatching  up  their  rifles,  they 
beheld  in  dismay  their  horses  and  mules  al- 
ready in  possession  of  the  enemj-,  who  had 
stolen  upon  the  camp  unperceived,  while  they 
were  spell-bound  bj-  the  magic  of  "  old  sledge." 
The  Indians  sprang  upon  the  animals  bare- 
backed, and  endeavored  to  urge  them  off  under 
a  galling  fire,  that  did  some  execution.  The 
mules,  however,  confounded  bj-  the  hurly- 
burly,  and  disliking  their  new  riders,  kicked 
up  their  heels  and  dismounted  half  of  them, 
in  spite  of  their  horsemanship.  This  threw 
the  rest  into  confusion  ;    they  endeavored  to 


■..v..^rX) 


''     ) 


I' 


II 


122  asonncrtllc's  BCrcnturcs 


?">y^/ 


'-7 


t« 


c,P 


m 


N 


protect  their  unhorsed  comrades  from  the  furi- 
ou.s  assaults  of  the  whites  ;  but,  after  a  scene 
of  'confusion  worse  confounded,"  horses  and 
mules  were  abandoned,  and  the  Indians  betook 
themselves  to  the  bushes.  Here  thej*  quickly 
scratched  holes  in  the  earth  about  two  feet 
deep,  in  which  tlie\-  prostrated  themselves,  and 
while  thus  screened  from  the  shots  of  the  white 
men.  were  enabled  to  make  such  use  of  their 
bows  and  arrows  and  fusees  as  to  repulse  their 
assailants,  and  to  effect  their  retreat.  This  ad- 
venture threw  a  temporary  stigma  upon  the 
game  of  "  old  sledge." 

In  the  course  of  the  autumn,  four  Iroquois 
hunters,  driven  by  the  snow  from  their  hunt- 
ing groiuids,  made  their  appearance  at  the 
cantonment.  They  were  kindly  welcomed, 
and  during  their  .sojourn  made  themselves 
useful  in  a  variety  of  ways,  being  excellent 
trappers  and  first-rate  woodsmen.  They  were 
of  the  remnants  of  a  party  of  Iroquois  hun- 
ters, that  came  from  Canada  into  these  moun- 
tain regions  many  years  previously,  in  the 
emploN"  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  They 
were  led  by  a  brave  chieftain,  named  Pierre, 
who  fell  by  the  hands  of  the  Blackfeet,  and 
gave  his  name  to  the  fated  valley  of  Pierre's 
Hole.  This  branch  of  the  Iroquois  tribe  has 
ever  .since  remained  among  these  mountains; 


0 


^^ 


vr^4 


>/:> 


k 


^ 


77/^'  lIiDitini^  Pnxiric  oj  the  Pcnd-Oriellcs 
Indians. 

Haii'J  on  II  v/'(7.  //  w./i//  ,/ittini;  n  (lovtrnintiil  Siirvev. 


\    I' 
I 
I 


<l  « 


S   V 

I 

{ 


e    ::: 


e 


|»  1 

in 

8 


'-4 


llH: 


I* 


■ 


/ 


I) 


i 


^■.^^J.l 


T 


"  »! 


"  u 


I 

111 


{  I 


^-4. 


■  ' 


.,^W.»! 


-"i 


II 


il 


'% 


Visit  o(  penOs  Orcilles 


at  mortal  enmity  with  the  Blackfeet,  and  have 
lost  many  of  their  prime  hunters  in  their  feuds 
with  that  ferocious  race.  Some  of  them  fell 
in  with  General  Ashley,  in  the  course  of  one 
of  his  gallant  excursions  into  the  wilderness, 
and  have  continued  ever  since  in  the  employ 
of  the  company. 

Among  the  motley  visitors  to  the  winter 
quarters  of  Captain  Bonneville,  was  a  party 
of  Pends  Oreilles  (or  Hanging-Ears)  and  their 
chief.  These  Indians  have  a  strong  resem- 
blance, in  character  and  customs,  to  the  Nez 
Perces.  They  amount  to  about  three  hundred 
lodges,  and  are  well  armed,  and  possess  great 
numbers  of  horses.  During  the  spring,  sum- 
mer, and  autumn  they  hunt  the  buffalo  alwut 
the  head-waters  of  the  Missouri,  Henry's  Fork 
of  the  Snake  River,  and  the  northern  branches 
of  Salmon  River.  Their  winter  quarters  are 
upon  the  Racine  Amere,  where  they  subsist 
upon  roots  and  dried  buffalo  meat.  Upon  this 
river  the  Hmlson's  Bay  Company  have  estab- 
lishes a  trading  post,  where  the  Pends  Oreilles 
and  the  Flatheads  bring  their  peltries  to  ex- 
change 'or  arms,  clothing,  and  trinkets. 

This  tribe,  like  tlie  Nez  Percys,  evince  strong 
and  peculiar  feelings  of  natural  piety.  Their 
religion  is  not  a  mere  superstitious  fear,  like 
that  of  most  savages  ;  they  evitice  abstract  no- 


fn,. 


i 


i 


i  « 


*  <i 


II 


"T^ 


i' 


^1 


•m^-' 


M 


r 


'«— -i^ •~^-^-:^^^!^~'~  ^"~-^T-^--::r-S-"—-^ 


^:k 


^^■ 


124 


JBonncville's  aoventures 


tions  of  nioralitj-,  a  deep  reverence  for  an  over- 
ruling Spirit,  and  a  respect  for  the  rights  of 
their  fellow-men.  In  one  respect,  their  religion 
partakes  of  the  pacific  doctrines  of  the  Quak- 
ers. They  hold  that  the  Great  Spirit  is  dis- 
pleased with  all  nations  who  wantonly  engage 
in  war  ;  they  alistain,  therefore,  from  all  ag- 
gressive hostilities.  But  though  thus  unof- 
fending in  their  policy,  they  are  called  upon, 
contiiuialh'  to  wage  defensive  warfare,  espe- 
cially with  the  Blackfeet  ;  with  whom,  in  the 
course  of  their  limiting  expeditions,  thej'  come 
in  frequent  collision,  and  have  desperate  bat- 
tles. Their  conduct  as  warriors  is  witliout 
fear  or  reproach,  and  they  can  never  be  driven 
to  abandon  their  hunting  grounds. 

f^ike  most  .savages,  they  vu  firm  believers 
in  dreams,  and  in  the  power  ami  efficacy  of 
charms  and  amulets,  or  medicines,  as  they 
term  them.  Some  of  their  brave."--,  also,  who 
have  had  numerous  hair-breadth  '.scapes,  like 
the  old  Xez  Perc.!  chief  in  lie  battle  of  Pierre's 
Hole,  are  believed  to  v  .  charmed  life,  and 
to  be  bullet-proof  Of  the.M^  giJted  beings  mar- 
vellous anecdotes  are  related,  v.iiich  are  most 
potently  believed  by  their  feilow-savages,  and 
sometinies  almost  credited  \y  the  white  hunters. 


1-       I 


a 


y  ^. 


J 


VT). 


^i 


^0m^: 


s^\^ir>t^.,&^ 


.  i 


I     1 


Chapter  J*1I. 

'.>  Rival  Trapping  Parties — MaiKxuvriiig — A  Desperate 
Game — Van(ler))iiri,'h  and  the  Ulackfeet — Deserted 
Camp  rires — A  Dark  Defile — An  Indian  Ambush — 
A  I'Merce  Melee — Fatal  Consequences — Fitzpatrick 
and  Uridger — Trappers'  Prccaulions — ^Meetiuj^  with 
the  Ulackfeet — More  iMjihlint,' — Anecdote  of  a 
Vouuj^  Mexican  and  an  In<liau  (lirl. 

WMIIJv  Captain  IJoniievillc  and  his  men 
are  sojonrnini;'  among  the  Xez  Per- 
ccs,  on  Salmon  River,  we  willinqnire 
after  the  fortnnes  of  those  (lou.i;lity  rivals  of 
the  Rocky  Mountain  and  American  Fur  Com- 
panies, who  started  off  for  the  trapping  grounds 
to  the  north-northwest. 

Fitzpatrick  and  Briilger,  of  the  former  com- 
pany, as  we  have  already  shown,  having  re- 
ceived their  supplies,  liad  taken  the  lead,  and 
hoped  to  have  the  first  sweep  of  the  lumting 
ground.  Vanderburgh  and  Dripps,  however, 
the  two  resident  partners  of  the  opposite  com- 
pany, by   extraordinary   exertions,    were    en- 


"  n 


If 

(. '  ■ 

t  '-  i:i « 


i: 


'•■4, 


ii: 


11 


^■ivr'?  /fj^;.    f->^rfrrrK,^«vr/>.._^^    jf^^.     V''^^        '>  ''^  &>  O  ^'^?^- 


X4J>^'    \jli/      **-*,. 


126 


3SonneviUe'6  Bdventures 


abled  soon  to  pui  themselves  upon  their  traces, 
and  pressed  forward  with  such  speed  as  to 
overtake  them  just  as  they  had  reached  the 
heart  of  the  beaver  countrj-.  In  fact,  be- 
ing ignorant  of  the  best  trapping  grounds,  it 
was  their  object  to  follow  on  and  profit  by  the 
superior  knowledge  of  the  other  party. 

Nothing  could  equal  the  chagrin  of  Fitz- 
patrick  and  Bridger,  at  being  dogged  by  their 
inexperienced  rivals  ;  especially  after  their 
offer  to  divide  the  country  with  them.  They 
tried  in  every  way  to  blind  and  baffle  them, 
to  steal  a  march  upon  them,  or  lead  them  on 
a  wrong  .scent  ;  but  all  in  vain.  Vanderburgh 
made  up,  by  activity  and  intelligence,  for  his 
ignoraiK '^  of  the  country;  was  always  wary, 
always  the  alert ;  discovered  every  move- 
ment of  ills  rivals,  howt-ver  secret,  and  was 
not  to  be  eluded  or  misled. 

Fitzpntrick  and  his  colleague  now  lost  all 
patie  .ce  ;  since  the  others  persisted  in  follow- 
ing them,  thej'  determined  to  give  them  an 
unprofitable  chase,  and  to  .sacrifice  the  hunting 
season,  rather  than  share  the  products  with 
their  rivals.  They  accordingly  took  up  their 
line  of  march  down  the  course  of  the  Missouri, 
k.eping  the  main  Black  foot  trail,  and  tramping 
dc'ggedly  forward,  without  stopping  to  set  a 
&!tigle  trap.     The  others  beat  the  hoof  after 

'■7N  .-•'-'^ ...       (""'^  iv        J  «v 


l/-^ 


i-i   'ijs 


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dy^'     -vii^.*  I 


••.*C"-J<J^t:.... 


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iff'-y'^ 


rim 


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k^ 


them  for  some  time,  but  by  degrees  began  to 
perceive  that  they  were  on  a  wild-goose  chase, 
and  getting  into  a  countrj'  perfectly  barren  to 
the  trapper.  They  now  came  to  a  halt,  and 
bethought  themselves  how  to  make  up  for  lost 
time,  and  improve  the  remainder  of  the  season. 
It  was  thought  best  to  divide  their  forces  and 
try  different  trapping  grounds.  While  Dripps 
went  in  one  direction,  Vanderburgh,  with 
about  fifty  men,  proceeded  in  another.  The 
latter,  in  his  headlong  march,  had  got  into  the 
ver>'  heart  of  the  Blackfoot  country,  yet  seems 
to  have  been  unconscious  of  his  danger.  As 
his  scouts  were  out  one  day,  they  car  :  upon 
the  traces  of  a  recent  band  of  savages.  There 
were  the  deserted  fires  still  smoking,  sur- 
rounded by  the  carcasses  of  buffaloes  just  killed. 
It  was  evident  a  party  of  Blackfeet  had  been 
frightened  from  their  hunting  camp,  and  had 
retreated,  probably  to  seek  reinforcements. 
The  scouts  hastened  back  to  the  camp,  and 
told  Vanderburgh  what  they  had  seen.  He 
made  light  of  the  alarm,  and,  taking  nine  men 
with  him,  galloped  off  to  reconnoitre  for  him- 
self He  found  the  deserted  cainj)  just  as  thej- 
had  represented  it  ;  there  lay  the  carcasses  of 
buffaloes,  partly  dismemlvcred  :  there  were  the 
smouldering  fires,  still  seiidin^i;  up  their  wreaths 
of  smoke  ;    everything   bore  traces   of  recent 


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128 


JBonncvUlc's  acvcnturcs 


and  hasty  retreat ;  and  gave  reason  to  believe 
that  tlie  savages  were  still  lurking  in  the 
neighborhood.  With  heedless  daring,  Vander- 
burgh put  himself  upon  their  trail,  to  trace 
them  to  their  place  of  concealment.  It  led  him 
over  prairies,  and  through  skirts  of  woodland, 
until  it  entered  a  dark  and  dangerous  ravine. 
Vanderburgh  pushed  in,  without  hesitation, 
followed  by  his  little  baud.  The\'  soon  found 
themselves  in  a  gloomy  dell,  between  steep 
banks  overhung  with  irce:-i  ;  where  the  pro- 
found silence  was  only  broken  by  the  tramp 
of  their  own  horses. 

vSuddenly  the  horrid  war-whoop  burst  on 
their  ears,  mingled  with  the  sharp  report  of 
rifles,  and  a  legion  of  savages  sprang  from 
their  concealments,  yelling,  and  shaking  their 
buffalo  robes  to  frighten  the  horses.  Vander- 
burgh's horse  fell,  mortally  wounded  by  tlie 
first  discharge.  In  his  fall,  he  pinned  his  rider 
to  the  ground  ;  who  called  in  vain  upon  his 
men  to  assist  in  extricating  him.  One  was 
shot  down  and  scalped  a  few  paces  distant  ; 
most  of  the  others  were  severeh-  wounded,  and 
sought  their  safety  in  flight.  The  savages  ap- 
proached to  dispatch  the  unfortunate  leader, 
as  he  lay  struggling  beneath  his  horse.  He 
had  still  his  rifle  in  his  hand,  and  his  pistols 
in  his  belt.     The  first  savage  that  advanced 


c^::^:Xcu<  ,:-=:.: 


u^«v^ 


>WI». 


^>^XK0<^^^ 


fi 


V 


c 


X' 


jpatc  of  ^ajor  WanOcrburgb 


received  the  contents  of  the  rifle  in  his  breast, 
and  fell  dead  upon  the  spot ;  but  before  Van- 
derburgh could  draw  a  pistol,  a  blow  from  a 
tomahawk  laid  him  prostrate,  and  he  was  dis- 
patched by  repeated  wounds. 

Such  was  the  fate  of  Major  Henry  Vander- 
burgh, one  of  the  best  and  worthiest  leaders 
of  the  American  Fur  Company  ;  who,  bj-  his 
manly  bearing  and  dauntless  courage,  is  said 
to  have  made  himself  universally  popular 
among  the  bold-hearted  rovers  of  the  wilder- 
ness. 

Those  of  the  little  band  who  escaped  fled  in 
consternation  to  the  camp,  and  .spread  direful 
reports  of  the  force  and  ferocity  of  the  enemy. 
The  party,  being  without  a  head,  were  in  com- 
plete confusion  and  dismay,  and  made  a  pre- 
cipitate retreat,  without  attempting  to  recover 
the  remains  of  their  butchered  leader.  They 
made  no  halt  until  they  reached  the  encamp- 
ment of  the  Pends  Oreil  t-s,  or  Hanging-Ivars, 
where  they  oflered  a  reward  for  the  recovery 
of  the  body,  but  without  success  ;  it  never 
could  be  found. 

In  the  meantime  Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger,  of 
the  Rocky  Moiiutain  Company,  fared  but  little 
better  than  their  rivals.  In  their  eagerness  to 
mislead  them,  they  had  betrayed  themselves 
into  danger,  and  got  into  a  region  infested  with 


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130 


JSonncvUlc'B  adventures 


/-■ 


the  Blackfeet.  They  soon  found  that  foes  were 
on  the  watch  for  them  ;  but  they  were  experi- 
enced in  Indian  warfare,  and  not  to  be  sur- 
prised at  night,  nor  drawn  into  an  ambush  in 
the  daytime.  As  the  evening  advanced,  the 
horses  were  all  brought  in  and  picketed,  and  a 
guard  was  stationed  round  the  camp.  At  the 
earliest  streak  of  daj-  one  of  the  leaders  would 
mount  his  horse,  and  gallop  off  full  speed  for 
about  half  a  mile  ;  then  look  round  for  Indian 
trails,  to  ascertain  whether  there  had  been  any 
lurkers  roinid  the  camp  ;  returning  slowly,  he 
would  reconnoitre  everj'  ravine  and  thicket 
where  there  might  be  an  ambush.  This  do:ie,  he 
would  gallop  off  in  an  opposite  direction  and 
repeat  the  same  scrutiny.  Finding  all  things 
safe,  the  horses  would  be  turned  loo.se  to  graze, 
but  always  inider  the  e3'e  of  a  guard. 

A  caution  equally  vigilant  was  observed  in 
the  inarch,  on  approaching  any  defde  or  i)lace 
where  an  enemj-  might  lie  in  wait ;  and  scouts 
were  always  kept  in  the  advance,  or  along  the 
ridges  and  rising  grounds  on  the  flanks. 

At  length,  one  day,  a  large  band  of  Black- 
feet  appeared  in  the  open  field,  but  in  the 
vicinity  of  rocks  and  cliiTs.  They  kept  at  a 
wary  distance,  but  made  friendlj'  .signs.  The 
trappers  replied  in  the  same  way,  but  likewise 
kept  aloof.     A  small  party  of  Indians  now  ad- 


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Uorctto  auD  Ibis  UnDian  lUtfc 


vanced,  bearing  the  pipe  of  peace  ;  they  were 
met  by  an  equal  numl)er  of  white  men,  and 
they  formed  a  group,  midway  between  the  two 
bands,  where  the  pipe  was  circulated  from 
hand  to  hand,  atid  smoked  with  all  due  cere- 
mony. An  instance  of  natural  affection  took 
place  at  this  pacific  meeting.  Among  the  free 
trappers  in  the  Rocky  Mountain  band,  was  a 
spirited  j-oung  Mexican,  named  Loretto  ;  who, 
in  the  course  of  his  wanderings,  had  ransomed 
a  beautiful  Blackfoot  girl  from  a  band  of  Crows 
by  whom  she  had  been  captured.  He  made 
her  his  wife,  after  the  Indian  style,  and  she 
had  followed  his  fortunes  ever  since,  with  the 
most  dev<jted  affection. 

Among  the  Blackfeet  warriors  who  advanced 
with  the  calumet  of  peace,  she  recognized  a 
brother.  Leaving  her  infant  with  Loretto,  she 
rushed  forward  and  threw  herself  upon  her 
brother's  neck  ;  who  clasped  his  long-lost  sister 
to  his  heart,  with  a  warmth  of  affection  but 
little  compatible  with  the  reputed  stoicism  of 
the  savage. 

While  this  scene  was  taking  place,  Bridger 
left  the  main  body  of  trappers,  and  rode  slowly 
towards  the  group  of  smokers,  with  his  rifle 
resting  across  the  pommel  of  his  saddle.  The 
chief  of  the  Blackfeet  stepped  forward  to  meet 
him.     From  some  unfortunate  feeling  of  dis- 


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trust,  Bridger  cocked  his  rifle  just  as  the  chief 
was  extending  his  hand  in  friendship.  The 
quick  ear  of  the  savage  caught  the  cHck  of  the 
lock  ;  in  a  twinkling,  he  grasped  the  barrel, 
forcing  the  muzzle  downward,  and  the  contents 
were  discharged  into  the  earth  at  his  feet. 
His  next  movement  was  to  wrest  the  weapon 
from  the  hand  of  Bridger,  and  fell  him  with  it 
to  the  earth.  He  might  have  found  this  no 
easy  task,  had  not  the  unfortunate  leader  re- 
ceived two  arrows  in  his  back  during  the 
struggle. 

The  chief  now  sprang  into  the  vacant  saddle 
and  galloped  off  to  his  band.  A  wild  hurry- 
skurry  scene  ensued ;  each  party  took  the 
banks,  the  rocks,  and  trees,  to  gain  favorable 
positions,  and  an  irregular  firing  was  kept  up 
on  either  side,  without  much  effect.  The 
Indian  girl  had  been  hurried  off  by  her  people, 
at  the  outbreak  of  the  affray.  She  would  have 
returned,  through  the  dangers  of  the  fight,  to 
her  husband  and  her  child,  but  was  prevented 
by  her  brother.  The  young  Mexican  saw  her 
struggles  and  her  agony,  and  heard  her  pier- 
cing cries  With  a  generous  impulse,  he 
caught  up  the  child  in  his  arms,  rushed  for- 
ward, regardless  of  Indian  shaft  or  rifle,  and 
placed  it  in  safety  upon  her  bosom.  Even  the 
savage  heart  of  the  Blackfoot  chief  was  reached 


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Xoretto  anO  Dis  ITndian  mite 


133 


by  this  noble  deed.  He  pronounced  Loretto  a 
madman  for  his  temerity,  but  bade  him  depart 
in  peace.  The  young  Mexican  hesitated  :  he 
urged  to  have  his  wife  restored  to  him,  but  her 
brother  interfered,  and  the  countenance  of  the 
chief  grew  dark.  The  girl,  he  said,  belonged 
to  his  tribe — she  must  remain  with  her  people, 
lyoretto  would  still  have  lingered,  but  his  wife 
implored  him  to  depart,  lest  his  life  should  be 
endangered.  It  was  with  the  greatest  reluc- 
tance that  he  returned  to  his  companions. 

The  approach  of  night  put  an  end  to  the 
skirmishing  fire  of  the  adverse  parties,  the 
savages  drew  off  without  renewing  their 
hostilities.  We  cannot  but  remark,  that 
both  in  this  affair  and  in  that  of  Pierre's 
Hole,  the  affray  commenced  by  a  hostile  act  on 
the  part  of  white  men,  at  the  moment  when 
the  Indian  warrio*-  was  extending  the  hand  of 
amity.  In  neither  instance,  as  far  as  circum- 
stances have  been  stated  to  us  by  different  per- 
sons, do  we  see  any  reason  to  suspect  the 
savage  chiefs  of  perfidy  in  their  overtures  of 
friendship.  They  advanced  in  the  confiding 
way  usual  among  Indians  when  they  bear 
the  pipe  of  peace,  and  consider  themselves 
sacred  from  attack.  If  we  violate  the  sanctity 
of  this  ceremonial,  by  any  hostile  movement 
on  our  part,  it  is  we  who  incur  the  charge  of 


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JBonncville's  2l5vcntures 


faithlessness ;  and  we  doubt  not  that  in  both 
these  instances  the  white  men  have  been  con- 
sidered by  the  Blackfeet  as  the  aggressors,  and 
fy|  |(  *  have,  in  consequence,  been  held  up  as  men  not 
to  be  trusted. 

A  word  to  conclude  the  romantic  incident 
of  Lroretto  and  his  Indian  bride.  A  few 
months  subsequ(?nt  to  the  event  just  related, 
the  young  Mexican  settled  his  accounts  with 
the  Rocky  Mountain  Company,  and  obtained 
his  discharge.  He  then  left  his  comrades  and 
set  off  to  rejoin  his  wife  and  child  among  her 
people  ;  and  we  imderstand  that,  at  the  time  we 
are  writing  these  pages,  he  resides  at  a  trading- 
house  established  of  late  by  the  American  Fur 
Company,  in  the  Black  foot  country,  where  he 
acts  as  an  interpreter  and  has  his  Indian  girl 
with  him. 


i/ 


*^" 


-^:^ 


m 


Chapter  J'lFII. 


[a 


b 


^ 


^ 


A  Winter  Camp  in  the  Wilderness — Medley  of  Trap- 
pers, Hunters,  and  Indians — Scarcity  of  Cranie — New 
Arrangements  in  the  Camp — Detachments  Sent  to  a 
Distance — Carelessness  of  the  Indians  when  En- 
camped— Sickness  among  the  Indians — Excellent 
Character  of  the  Nez  Perccs— The  Captain's  Effort 
as  a  Pacificator — A  Nez  Perce's  Argument  in  I'avor 
of  War — Robberies  by  the  lUackfeet — Long-Suffer- 
ing of  the  Nez  Perccs — a  Hunter's  Elysiutn  among 
the  Mountains — More  Robberies  —  The  Captain 
Preaches  up  a  Crusade — The  Effect  upon  his 
Hearers. 

FOR  the  greater  \  '^  of  ihe  motith  of  No- 
vember, Captain  Bonneville  remained  in 
his  temporary  post  on  Salmon  River. 
He  was  now  in  the  full  enjoyment  of  his 
wishes  ;  leading  a  hunter's  life  in  the  heart 
of  the  wilderness,  with  all  its  wild  populace 
around  him.  Besides  his  own  people,  motley 
in  character  and  costume — Creole,  Kentuckian, 
Indian,    half-breed,    .  ired   trapper,    and    free 


^. 


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III 


trapper — he  was  surrounded  by  encampments 
of  Nez  Perces  and  Flatheads,  with  their  droves 
of  horses  covering  the  hills  and  plains.  It 
was,  he  declares,  a  wild  and  bustling  scene. 
The  hunting  parties  of  white  men  and  red 
men,  continually  sallying  forth  and  returning  ; 
the  groups  at  the  various  encampments,  some 
cooking,  some  working,  some  amusing  them- 
selves af  different  games  ;  the  neighing  of 
horses,  the  braying  of  asses,  the  resounding 
strokes  of  the  axe,  the  sharp  report  of  the 
rifle,  the  whoop,  the  halloo,  and  the  frequent 
burst  of  laughter,  all  in  the  midst  of  a  region 
suddenh  roused  from  perfect  silence  and  lone- 
liness by  this  transient  hunters'  sojourn, 
realized,  he  says,  the  idea  of  a  "  populous 
solitude." 

The  kind  and  genial  character  of  the  cap- 
tain had,  evidently,  its  influence  on  the  oppo- 
site races  thus  fortuitouslj'  congregated  to- 
gether. The  most  perfect  harmony  prevailed 
between  them.  The  Indians,  he  says,  were 
friendly  in  their  dispositions,  and  honest  to  the 
most  scrupulous  degree,  in  their  intercourse 
with  the  white  men.  It  is  true  they  were 
somewhat  importunate  in  their  curiosity,  and 
apt  to  be  continually  in  the  way,  examining 
everything  witii  keen  and  prying  eye,  and 
watching  every  movement  of  the  white  men. 


z 


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tfnDian  fsorses 


All  this,  however,  was  borne  with  great  good- 
humor  by  the  captain,  and  through  his  exam- 
ple by  his  men.  Indeed,  throughout  all  his 
transactions,  he  shows  himself  the  friend  of  the 
poor  Indians,  and  his  conduct  towards  them  is 
above  all  praise. 

The  Nez  Perces,  the  Flatheads,  and  the 
Hanging-Ears  pride  themselves  upon  the  num- 
ber of  their  horses,  of  which  they  possess  more 
in  proportion  than  any  other  of  the  mountain 
tribes  within  the  buffalo  range.  Many  of  the 
Indian  warriors  and  hunters,  encamped  around 
Captain  Bonneville,  possess  from  thirty  to  forty 
horses  each.  Their  hon  i  are  stout,  well  built 
ponies,  of  great  wind,  and  capable  of  enduring 
the  severest  hardship  and  fatigue.  The  swiftest 
of  them,  however,  are  those  obtained  from  the 
whites  while  sufficiently  young  to  become  ac- 
climated and  inured  to  the  rough  service  of  the 
mountains. 

By  degrees  the  populousness  of  this  encamp- 
ment began  to  produce  its  inconveniences. 
The  immense  droves  of  horses  owned  by  the 
Indians  consumed  the  herbage  of  the  surround- 
ing hills  ;  while,  to  drive  them  to  any  distant 
pasturage,  in  a  neighborhood  aVjounding  with 
lurking  and  deadly  enemies,  would  be  to  en- 
danger the  loss  both  of  man  and  beast.  Game 
too,  began  to  grow  scarce.     It  was  soon  hunted 


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and  frightened  out  of  the  vicinity,  and  though 
the  Indians  made  a  wide  circuit  through  the 
mountains  in  the  hope  of  driving  the  buffalo 
towards  the  cantomnent,  their  expedition  was 
unsuccessful.  It  was  plain  that  so  large  a  party 
could  not  subsist  themselves  there,  nor  in  any 
one  place,  throughout  the  winter.  Captain 
Bonneville,  therefore,  altered  his  whole  ar- 
rangements. He  detached  fifty  men  towards 
the  .south  to  winter  upon  Snake  River,  and  to 
trap  about  its  waters  in  the  .spring,  with  orders 
to  rejoin  him  in  the  month  of  July,  at  Hor.se 
Creek,  in  Green  River  Valley,  which  he  had 
fixed  upon  as  the  general  rendez^'ous  of  his 
company  for  the  en.suing  year. 

Of  all  his  late  party,  he  now  retained  with 
him  merely  a  small  number  of  free  trappers, 
with  whom  he  intended  to  sojourn  among  the 
Nez  Perces  and  Flatiieads,  and  adopt  the  In- 
dian mode  of  moving  with  the  game  and  gra,ss. 
Those  bands,  in  effect,  shortly  afterwards  broke 
up  their  encampments  and  set  off  for  a  less 
beaten  neighborhood.  Captain  Bonneville  re- 
mained behind  for  a  few  days,  that  he  might 
secretlj'  prepare  caches,  in  which  to  deposit 
everything  not  required  for  current  u.se.  Thus 
lightetied  of  all  .superfluous  incumbrance,  he 
.set  off  on  the  20tli  of  November  to  rejoin  his 
Indian  allies.     He  found  them  encamped  in  a 


4,M 


(^v. 


t  \4 


Care  of  fjorses 


139 


secluded  part  of  the  country,  at  the  head  of  a 
small  stream.  Considering  themselves  out  of 
all  danger,  in  this  sequesteretl  spot,  from  their 
old  enemies,  the  Blackfeet,  their  encampment 
manifested  the  most  negligent  security.  Their 
lodges  were  .scattered  in  every  direction,  and 
their  horses  covered  every  liui  lor  a  great  dis- 
tance round,  grazing  upon  the  upland  bunch 
grass,  which  grew  in  great  abundance,  and, 
though  dry,  retained  its  nutritious  'properties 
iiustead  of  lo.snig  them,  like  other  grasses,  in 
the  autumn. 

When  the  Nez  Perces,  Flatheads,  and  Pends 
Oreilles  are  encamped  in  a  dcMigerous  neigh- 
borhood, says  Captain  Bonneville,  the  greate.-sL 
care  is  taken  of  tlieir  horses,  those  prime  arti- 
cles of  Indian  wealth,  and  objects  of  Indian 
depredation.  Each  warrior  has  his  hor.se  tied 
by  one  foot  at  night  to  a  stake  planted  before 
his  lodge.  Here  they  remain  until  broad  day- 
light ;  by  that  time  the  yoinig  men  of  the  camp 
are  already  ranging  over  the  surrounding  hills. 
Iwch  family  then  drives  its  liorses  to  some 
eligible  soot,  where  they  are  left  to  graze  unat- 
tended. A  j'oung  Indian  repairs  occasionally 
to  the  pa.  ture  to  give  them  water,  and  to  see 
that  all  is  well.  So  accustomed  are  the  horses 
to  this  managetr  int,  that  they  keep  together  in 

As  the 


the  pr-sture  where  they  have  been  left. 


M 


M 


!5, 


'  ] 


I    \ 


<1  a 


*  *1 


1] 


V 


l\ 


(J 

Ml     I 


. 


h'il 


I' 
,il 

tiii, 


aa«r:^*?j^ 


fh 


'   t 


! 


; 


H 


i 


( 


ll. 


II 


sun  sinks  behind  the  hills,  they  may  be  seen 
moving  from  all  points  towards  the  camp, 
where  thej-  surrender  themselves  to  be  tied  up 
for  the  night.  Even  in  situations  of  datiger, 
the  Indians  rarely  set  guards  over  their  camp 
at  night,  intrusting  that  office  entirely  to  their 
vigilant  and  well  trained  dogs. 

In  an  encampment,  however,  of  such  fancied 
security  as  that  in  which  Captain  Bonneville 
found  his  Indian  friends,  much  of  these  pre- 
cautions with  respect  to  their  horses  are  omit- 
ted. They  merely  drive  them,  at  nightfall,  to 
some  sequestered  little  dell,  and  leave  them 
there,  at  perfect  liberty,  until  the'  morning. 

One  object  of  Captain  Bonneville  in  winter- 
ing among  these  Indiatis,  was  to  procure  a 
supply  of  horses  against  the  spring.  They 
were,  however,  extremely  unwilling  to  part 
with  any,  and  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that 
he  purchased,  at  the  rate  of  twenty  dollars 
each,  a  few  for  the  use  of  some  of  his  free 
trappers,  who  were  on  foot,  and  dependent  on 
him  for  their  equipment. 

In  this  encampment  Captain  Boinieville  re- 
mained from  the  21st  of  November  to  the  9th 
of  December.  During  this  period  the  ther- 
mometer ranged  from  thirteen  to  forty-two 
degrees.  There  were  occasional  falls  of  snow  ; 
but  it  generally  melted  away  almost  immedi- 


<A 


^tc; 


m 


Concern  ^clt  for  /Ibattbicu 


141 


v'l 


\\\i 


K 


ately,  and  the  tender  blades  of  new  grass  began 
to  shoot  up  among  the  old.  On  the  7th  of 
December,  however,  the  thermometer  fell  to 
seven  degrees. 

The  reader  will  recollect  that,  on  distributing 
his  forces,  when  in  Green  River  Valley,  Cap- 
tain Botnieville  had  detached  a  party,  headed 
by  a  leader  of  the  name  of  Matthieu,  with  all 
the  weak  and  disabled  horses,  to  sojourn  about 
Bear  River,  meet  the  Shoshonie  bands,  and 
afterwards  to  rejoin  him  at  his  winter  camp  on 
Salmon  River. 

More  than  sufficient  time  had  elapsed,  yet 
Matthieu  failed  to  make  his  appear^  ice,  and 
uneasiness  began  to  be  felt  on  his  account. 
Captain  Boinieville  .sent  out  four  men  to  range 
the  country  through  which  he  would  have  to 
pass,  and  endeavor  to  get  some  information 
concerning  him  ;  for  his  route  lay  across  the 
great  Snake  River  plain,  which  spreads  itself 
out  like  an  Aiabian  desert,  and  on  which 
a  cavalcade  could  be  descried  at  a  great  dis- 
tance. The  scouts  soon  returned,  having  pro- 
ceeded no  farther  than  the  edge  of  the  plain, 
pretending  that  their  horses  were  lame  ;  but  it 
was  evident  they  had  feared  to  venture,  with 
so  small  a  force,  into  these  exposed  and  dan- 
gerous regions. 

A  disease,  which  Captain   Bonneville  sup-       ^'/ 


*  M 


*  *i 


|!| 


(J 


! 


J 


f! 


f 

It 


ih 


>l!       ' 


143 


JSonnevillc'B  B^vcnturce 


£^< 


■  <>-■ 


posed  to  be  pneumotiia,  now  appeared  among 
the  Indians,  carrying  oflFnumbers  of  them,  after 
an  iUness  of  three  or  four  days. 

The  worthy  captain  acted  as  physician,  pre- 
scribing profuse  sweatings  and  copious  bleed- 
ings, and  unifonnly  with  success,  if  the  patient 
was  subsequently  treated  with  proper  care. 
In  extraordinary  cases,  the  poor  savages  called 

f(kCM^    i"  the  aid  of  their  own  doctors  or  conjurers, 

•^  >'*  ^vho  officiated  with  great  noise  and  mummery, 
but  with  little  benefit.  Those  who  died  during 
this  epidemic,  were  buried  in  graves,  after  the 
manner  of  the  whites,  but  witliout  any  regard 
to  the  direction  of  the  head.  It  is  a  fact  worthy 
of  notice,  that,  while  this  malady  made  such 
ravages  among  the  natives,  not  a  single  white 

l^s'^  '  ni^ii  had  the  slightest  symptom  of  it. 
■-  '1^  '  A  familiar  intercourse  of  some  standing  with 
the  Pierced-Nosed  and  Flathead  Indians  had 
now  convinced  Captain  Bonneville  of  their 
amicable  and  inoffensive  character  ;  he  began 
to  take  a  strong  interest  in  them,  and  conceived 
the  idea  of  becoming  a  pacificator,  and  healing 
the  deadly  feud  between  them  and  the  Black- 
feet,  in  which  thej'  were  so  deplorably  the  suf- 
ferers. He  proposed  the  matter  to  some  of  the 
leaders,  and  urged  that  they  should  meet  the 
Blackfeet  chiefs  in  a  grand  pacific  conference, 

^'yiMy     offering  to  send  two  of  his  men  to  the  enemy's 


K-. 


# 


AV 


V 


t-T^- 


t 


^V^^stxtT^^/'^ 


B  Council  of  Wat 


^^i-i 


camp  with  pipe,  tobacco,  and  flag  of  truce,  to 
negotiate  the  proposed  meeting. 

The  Nez  Perces  and  Flathead  sages,  upon 
this,  held  a  council  of  war,  of  two  days'  dura- 
tion, in  which  there  was  abundance  of  hard 
smoking  and  long  talking,  and  both  eloqaence 
and  tobacco  were  nearly  exhausted.  At  length 
they  came  to  a  decision  to  reject  the  worthy 
captain's  proposition,  and  upon  pretty  substan- 
tial grounds,  as  the  reader  may  judge. 

"War,"  said  the  chiefs,  "  is  a  bloody  busi- 
ness, and  full  of  evil  ;  but  it  keeps  the  eyes  of 
the  chiefs  always  open,  and  makes  the  limbs 
of  the  young  men  strong  and  supple.  In  war, 
every  one  is  on  the  alert.  If  we  see  a  trail,  we 
know  it  nuist  be  an  enemy  ;  if  the  Blackfeet 
come  to  us,  we  know  it  is  for  war,  and  we  are 
ready.  Peace,  on  the  other  hand,  .sounds  no 
alarm  ;  the  eyes  of  the  chiefs  are  clo.sed  in 
sleep,  and  the  young  men  are  sleek  and  lazy. 
The  horses  stray  into  the  mountains ;  the 
women  and  their  little  babes  go  about  alone. 
But  the  heart  of  a  Blackfoot  is  a  lie,  and  his 
tongue  is  a  trap.  If  he  says  peace,  it  is  to  de- 
ceive ;  he  comes  to  us  as  a  brother  :  he  smokes 
his  pipe  with  us  ;  but  when  he  sees  us  weak, 
and  off  our  guard,  he  will  .slay  and  steal.  We 
will  have  no  such  peace  ;  let  there  be  war  ! ' ' 

With  this  reasoning,  Captain  Bonneville  was 


■<r- 


./■'■. 


«  «i 


V  < 


144 


:tSonn:viIlc'6  BDvcnturce 


fain  to  acquiesce ;  but,  since  the  sagacious 
Flatheads  and  their  allies  were  content  to  re- 
main in  a  state  of  warfare,  he  wished  them,  at 
least,  to  exercise  the  boasted  vigilance  which 
war  was  to  produce,  and  to  keep  their  eyes 
open.  He  represented  to  them  the  impossi- 
bility, that  two  such  considerable  clans  could 
move  about  the  country  without  leaving  trails 
by  which  they  might  be  traced.  Besides, 
among  the  Blackfeet  braves  were  several  Nez 
Perces,  who  had  been  taken  prisoners  in  early 
youth,  adopted  by  their  captors,  and  trained 
up  and  imbued  with  warlike  and  predatory 
notions ;  these  had  lost  all  sympathies  with 
their  native  tribe,  and  would  be  prone  to  lead 
the  enemy  to  their  secret  liaunts.  He  exhorted 
thcni,  therefore,  to  keep  upon  the  alert,  and 
never  to  remit  their  vigilance,  while  within  the 
range  of  so  crafty  arid  cruel  a  foe.  All  these 
counsels  were  lost  upon  his  easy  and  simple- 
minded  hearers.  A  careless  indififereriCe  reigned 
througliout  their  encampments,  and  their 
horses  were  permitted  to  range  the  hills  at 
night  in  perfect  freedom.  Captain  Bonneville 
had  his  own  horses  brought  in  at  night,  and 
properly  picketed  and  guaided.  The  evil  he 
apprehended  soon  took  place.  Pn  a  single 
night,  a  sweep  was  made  thiougii  the  neighbor- 
ing pastures  by  the  Blackfeet,  and  eighty-six 


r 


tr 


-  r> 


'hs 


■Robbcrg  bg  tbe  JBlacftfcc 


145 


of  the  finest  horses  carried  off.  A  whip  and  a 
rope  were  left  in  a  conspicuous  situation  by  the 
robbers,  as  a  taunt  to  the  simpletons  they  had 
unhorsed. 

Long  before  sunrise,  the  news  of  this  calam- 
ity spread  like  wildfire  through  the  different 
encampments.  Captain  Bonneville,  whose  own 
horses  remained  safe  at  their  pickets,  watched 
in  momentary  expectation  of  an  outbreak  of 
warriors,  Pierced-Nose  and  Flathead,  in  furious 
pursuit  of  the  marauders ;  but  no  such  thing 
— they  contented  themselves  with  searching 
diligently  over  hill  and  dale,  to  glean  up  such 
horses  as  had  escaped  the  hands  of  the  maraud- 
ers, and  then  resigned  themselves  to  their  loss 
with  the  most  exemplary  quiescence. 

Some,  it  is  true,  who  were  entirely  unhorsed, 
set  out  on  a  begging  visit  to  their  cousins,  as 
they  call  them,  the  Lower  Nez  Perces,  who 
inhabit  the  lower  country  about  the  Columbia, 
and  possess  horses  in  abundance.  To  these 
they  repair  when  in  difficulty,  and  seldom  fail, 
by  dint  of  begging  and  bartering,  to  get  them- 
selves once  more  mounted  on  horseback. 

Game  had  now  become  scarce  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  camp,  and  it  was  necessarj-, 
according  to  Indian  custom,  to  move  off  to  a 
less  beaten  ground.  Captain  Bonneville  pro- 
posed the  Horse  Prairie  ;  but  his  Indian  friends 


4i^>t> 


'  \ 


'  'fS 


II' 


t 


)  ■ 


/: 


<c: 


.4 


i 


objected  that  many  of  the  Nez  Perces  had 
gone  to  visit  their  cousins,  and  that  the  whites 
were  few  in  number,  so  that  their  united  force 
was  not  sufficient  to  venture  on  the  buffalo 
grounds,  which  were  infested  by  bands  of 
Blackfeet. 

They  now  spoke  of  a  place  at  no  great  dis- 
tance, which  they  represented  as  a  perfect 
hunter's  elysium.  It  was  on  the  right  branch, 
or  head  stream  of  the  river,  locked  up  among 
cliffs  and  precipices,  where  there  was  no  danger 
from  roving  bands,  and  where  the  Blackfeet 
dare  not  enter.  Here,  they  said,  the  elk 
abounded,  and  the  mountain  sheep  were  to  be 
seen  trooping  upon  the  rocks  and  hills.  A 
little  distance  beyond  it,  also,  herds  of  Buffalo 
were  to  be  met  with,  out  of  the  range  of  a^nger. 
Thither  they  proposed  to  move  their  camp. 

The  proposition  pleased  the  captain,  who 
was  desirous,  through  the  Indians,  of  becom- 
ing acquainted  with  all  the  secret  places  of 
the  land.  Accordingly,  on  the  9th  of  Decem- 
ber, they  .'Struck  their  tents,  and  moved  for- 
ward by  short  stages,  as  many  of  the  Indians 
were  yet  feeble  from  the  late  malady. 

Following  up  the  right  fork  of  the  river, 
they  came  to  where  it  entered  a  deep  gorge  of 
the  mountains,  up  which,  lay  the  secluded 
region  so  much  vaunted  by  the  Indians.     Cap- 


\\ 


^ 


,1,  -fi 


M> 


c 


te 


m 


^xr-s 


Xoiid'Sufterind  of  tbe  Dei;  Percys 


tain  Bonneville  halted,  and  encamped  for  three 
days,  before  entering  the  gorge.  In  the  mean- 
time, he  detached  five  of  his  free  trappers  to 
scour  the  hills  and  kill  as  many  elk  as  possible, 
before  the  main  body  should  enter,  as  they 
would  then  be  soon  frightened  away  by  the 
various  Indian  hunting  parties. 

While  thus  encamped,  they  were  still  liable 
to  the  marauds  of  the  Blackfeet,  and  Captain 
Bonneville  admonished  his  Indian  friends  to 
be  upon  their  guard.  The  Nez  Perces,  how- 
ever, notwithstanding  their  recent  loss,  were 
still  careless  of  their  horses  ;  merely  driving 
them  to  some  secluded  spot,  and  leaving  them 
there  for  the  night,  without  setting  any  guard 
upon  them.  The  consequence  was  a  second 
swoop,  in  which  forty-one  were  carried  off. 
This  was  borne  with  equal  philosophy  with  the 
first,  and  no  effort  was  made  either  to  recover 
the  horses,  or  to  take  vengeance  on  the  thieves. 

The  Nez  Perces,  however,  grew  more  cau- 
tious with  respect  to  their  remaining  horses, 
driving  them  regularly  to  the  camp  every 
evening,  and  fastening  tliem  to  pickets.  Cap- 
tain Bonneville,  however,  told  them  that  this 
was  not  enough.  It  was  evident  that  they 
were  dogged  by  a  daring  and  persevering 
enemy,  who  was  encouraged  by  past  impunity  ; 
they  should,  therefore,  take  more  than  usual 


It 


't 


■li' 


% 


I 


',  t 


li 


Ml' 


\s.^ 


precautions,  and  post  a  guard  at  night  over 
their  cavalry.  They  could  not,  however,  be 
persuaded  to  depart  from  their  usual  custom. 
The  horse  once  picketed,  the  care  of  the  owner 
was  over  for  the  night,  and  he  slept  profoundly. 
None  waked  in  the  camp  but  the  gamblers, 
who,  absorbed  in  their  play,  were  more  difficult 
to  be  roused  to  external  circumstances  than 
even  the  sleepers. 

The  Blackfeet  are  bold  enemies,  and  fond  of 
hazardous  exploits.  The  band  that  were  hov- 
ering about  the  neighborhood,  finding  they 
had  such  pacific  people  to  deal  with,  redoubled 
their  daring.  The  horses  being  now  picketed 
before  the  lodges,  a  number  of  Blackfeet  scouts 
penetrated  in  the  early  part  of  the  night  into  the 
very  centre  of  the  camp.  Here  they  went  about 
among  the  lodges,  as  calmly  and  deliberately 
as  if  at  home,  quietly  cutting  loose  the  horses 
that  stood  picketed  by  the  lodges  of  their 
sleeping  owners.  One  of  these  prowlers,  more 
adventurous  than  the  rest,  approached  a  fire, 
round  which  a  group  of  Nez  Perces  were  gam- 
bling with  the  most  intense  eagerness.  Here 
he  stood  for  some  time,  muffled  up  in  his  robe, 
peering  over  the  shoulders  of  the  players  watch- 
ing the  changes  of  their  countenances  and 
the  fluctuations  of  the  game.  So  completely 
engrossed  were  they,  that  the  presence  of  this 


^^^%2 


^'i^^\ 
^f^ 


41 


(V 


^ 


Darind  jEnemies 


muffled  eavesdropper  was  unnoticed,  and  hav- 
ing executed  his  bravado,  he  retired  undis- 
covered. 

Having  cut  loose  as  many  horses  as  they 
could  conveniently  carry  off,  the  Blackfeet 
scouts  rejoined  their  comrades,  and  all  re- 
mained patiently  round  the  camp.  By  degrees, 
the  horses,  finding  themselves  at  liberty,  took 
their  route  towards  their  customary  grazing 
ground.  As  they  emerged  from  the  camp, 
they  were  silently  taken  possession  of,  until, 
having  secured  about  thirty,  the  Blackfeet 
sprang  on  their  backs  and  scampered  off.  The 
clatter  of  hoofs  startled  the  gamblers  from 
their  game.  The}'  gave  the  alarm,  which 
soon  roused  the  sleepers  from  everj-  lodge. 
Still  all  was  quiescent ;  no  marshalling  offerees, 
no  saddling  of  steed  and  dashing  off  in  pursuit, 
no  talk  of  retribution  for  their  repeated  out- 
rages. The  patience  of  Captain  Bonneville 
was  at  length  exhausted.  He  had  played  the 
part  of  a  pacificator  without  success  ;  he  now 
altered  his  tone,  and  resolved,  if  possible,  to 
rouse  their  war  spirit. 

Accordingly,  convoking  their  chiefs,  he 
inveighed  against  their  craven  policy,  and 
urged  the  necessity  of  vigorous  and  retributive 
measures,  that  would  check  the  confidence 
and  presumption  of  their  enemies,  if  not  inspire 


i    It 


I 


I  ^    \ 


n 
I, 

1. 


iN 


( 


111 


iiiii 


I'si 


II. 


I    , 


!■: 


it 


41  ' 


I  Si 


liiMl 


^, 


"v^ri 


f^ 


tA 


tJ 


Si 


5l9oiinevi[(e'd  Bdvcntures 


them  with  awe.  For  this  purpose,  he  advised 
that  a  war  party  should  be  immediately  sent 
ofiF  on  the  trail  of  the  marauders,  to  follow 
them,  if  necessary,  into  the  very  heart  of  the 
Blackfoot  country,  and  not  to  leave  them  until 
they  had  taken  signal  vengeance.  Beside  this, 
he  recommended  the  organization  of  minor 
war  parties,  to  make  reprisals  to  the  extent  of 
the  lossses  sustained.  "  Unless  you  rouse 
yourselves  from  your  apathy,"  said  he,  "and 
strike  some  bold  and  decisive  blow,  you  will 
cease  to  be  considered  men,  or  objects  of  manly 
warfare.  The  very  squaws  and  children  of 
the  Blackfeet  will  be  sent  against  you,  while 
their  warriors  reser\-e  themselves  for  noMer 
antagonists. ' ' 

This  harangue  had  evidently  a  momentary 
effect  upon  the  pride  of  the  hearers.  After  a 
short  pause,  however,  one  of  the  orators  arose. 
It  was  bad,  he  said,  to  go  to  war  for  mere  re- 
venge. The  Great  Spirit  had  given  them  a 
heart  for  peace,  not  for  war.  Thej'  had  lost 
horses,  i*^  was  true,  but  they  could  easily  get 
others  Irom  their  cousins,  the  I,ower  Nez 
Perces,  without  incurring  any  risk  ;  whereas, 
in  war  they  should  lose  men,  who  were  not  so 
readily  replaced.  As  to  their  late  losses,  an 
increased  watchfulness  would  prevent  any 
more  misfortunes  of  the  kind.    He  disapproved, 


^ 


WV%i-tF«i^^ 


*«0 


2-* 


--^^-V' ,  ^  ••*f^!^^i^  Ci><^::^:^>  1'^,  iS^^'^Sf^^  <^^y  ''^' 

'^  >  i:/'  C^-cjrriT^  >  His.  ^Trct^ 

TKnarUke  'barangue  151 


therefore,  of  all  hostile  measures  ;  and  all  the 
other  chiefs  concurred  in  his  opinion. 

Captain  Bonucville  again  took  up  the  point. 
"It  is  true,"  said  he,  "the  v>reat  Spirit  has 
given  you  a  heart  to  love  j'our  friends  ;  but  he 
has  also  given  you  an  arm  to  strike  your  ene- 
mies. Unless  you  do  something  speedily  to 
put  an  end  to  this  continual  blundering,  I  must 
say  farewell.  As  yet,  I  have  sustained  no  loss  ; 
thanks  to  the  precautions  which  you  have 
slighted  :  but  my  property  is  too  unsafe  here  ; 
my  turn  will  come  next ;  I  and  my  people  will 
share  the  contempt  you  are  bringing  upon 
yourselves,  and  will  be  thought,  like  you, 
poor-spirited  beings,  who  may  at  any  time  be 
plundered  wit'   impunity. ' ' 

The  conference  broke  up  with  some  signs  of 
excitement  on  the  part  of  the  Indians.  Early 
the  next  morning,  a  party  of  thirty  men  set  off 
in  pursuit  of  the  foe,  and  Captain  Bonneville 
hoped  to  hear  a  good  account  of  the  Blackfeet 
marauders.  To  his  disappointment,  the  war 
party  came  lagging  back  on  the  following  day, 
leading  a  few  old,  sorr>',  broken-down  horses, 
which  the  freebooters  had  not  been  able  to 
urge  to  sufficient  speed.  The  effort  exhausted 
the  martial  spirit  and  satisfied  the  wounded 
pride  of  the  Nez  Perces.  and  they  relapsed  into 
their  usual  state  of  passive  indifiFerence. 


I' 


!| 


^■ii. 


IZi 


JXilH-"^    * 


'» t 


jSSi. 


%\ 


! 

it' 


w 


f^ 


'W^ 


')&^r^^:^r^L 


Gbapter  fllllir. 


Story  of  Kosato,  the  Renegade  Blackfoot 


IF  the  meekness  and  long-swflfering  of  the 
Pierced-Noses  grieved  the  spirit  of  Captain 
Bonneville,  there  was  another  individual 
in  the  camp,  to  whom  they  were  still  more 
annoying.  This  w'as  a  Blackfoot  renegado, 
named  Kosato,  a  fiery,  hot-blooded  youth,  who, 
with  a  beatitifnl  girl  of  the  same  tribe,  had 
taken  refuge  among  the  Nez  Perccs.  Though 
adopted  into  the  tribe,  he  still  retained  the 
warlike  spirit  of  his  race,  and  loathed  the 
peaceful,  inoffensive  habits  of  those  around 
him.  The  hunting  of  the  deer,  the  elk,  and 
the  buffalo,  which  was  the  height  of  their  am- 
bition, was  too  tame  to  satisfy  his  wild  and 
restless  nature.  His  heart  burned  for  the 
foray,  the  ambush,  the  .skirmish,  the  scamper, 
and  all  the  haps  and  hazards  of  roving  and 
predatory  warfare. 

The  recent  hoverings  of  the  Blackfeet  about 
152 


i    • 


1^ 


J 


'%^0^^m^. 


s 


Cc 


ftoaato,  tbc  IRcnc^a^c  JBlachtoot 


the  camp,  and  their  nightly  prowls,  and  daring 
and  successful  marauds,  had  kept  him  in  a 
fever  and  a  flutter  ;  like  a  hawk  in  a  cage, 
who  hears  his  late  companions  swooping  and 
screaming  in  wild  liberty  above  him.  The 
attempt  of  Captain  Bonneville  to  rouse  the  war 
spirit  of  the  Nez  Perces,  air'  prompt  them  to 
retaliation,  was  ardently  seconded  by  Kosato, 
For  several  days  he  was  incessantly  devising 
schemes  of  vengeance,  and  endeavoring  to  set 
on  foot  an  expedition  that  should  carry  dismay 
and  desolation  into  the  Blackfeet  towns.  All 
his  art  was  exerted  to  touch  upon  those  springs 
of  humai;  action  with  which  he  was  most  fa- 
miliar. He  drew  the  listening  savages  round 
him  by  his  ner\'ous  eloquence ;  taunted  them 
with  recitals  of  past  wrongs  and  insults  ;  drew 
glowing  pictures  of  triumphs  and  trophies 
within  their  reach  ;  recounted  tales  of  daring 
and  romantic  enterprise,  of  secret  marchings, 
covert  lurkings,  n\idnight  surprisals,  sackings, 
burnings,  plunderings,  '"".Ipings ;  together 
with  the  triumphant  return,  and  the  feasting 
and  rejoicing  of  the  victors.  These  wild  tales 
were  intermingled  with  the  beating  of  the 
drum,  the  yell,  the  war-whoop,  and  the  war- 
dance,  so  inspiring  to  Indian  valor.  All, 
however,  were  lost  upon  the  peaceful  spirits  of 
his  hearers  ;  not  a  Nez  Perce  was  to  be  roused 


"M,-) 


C^ 


M' 


.^^.^ ,. 


i'ljll 

I'd; 


I    . 


•ill' 


J' 
■\'\ 


II 


T^r*^:^  ^/^  jrr\-2 


:J 


iA 


k 


J8onncvtl(e'0  BJ>venti  •"' 


154 


to  vengeance,  or  stimulated  to  glorious  \var. 
In  the  bitterness  of  his  heart,  the  Blackfoot 
renegado  repined  at  the  mishap  which  had 
severed  him  from  a  race  of  congenial  spirits, 
and  driven  him  to  take  refuge  among  beings 
so  destitute  of  martial  fire. 

Tlie  character  and  conduct  of  this  man  at- 
tracted the  attention  of  Captain  Bonneville, 
and  he  was  anxious  to  hear  the  reason  why  he 
had  deserted  his  tribe,  and  why  he  looked 
back  upon  them  with  such  deadly  hostility. 
Kosato  told  him  his  own  story  briefly  ; — it 
gives  a  picture  of  the  deep,  strong  passions 
that  work  in  the  bosoms  of  these  miscalled 
stoics. 

"  You  see  my  wife,"  said  he;  "  she  is  good  ; 
she  is  beautiful — I  love  her.  Yet,  she  has 
been  the  cause  of  all  my  troubles.  She  was 
the  wife  of  my  chief.  I  loved  her  more  than 
he  did  ;  and  she  knew  it.  We  talked  to- 
gether ;  we  laughed  together  ;  we  were  always 
seeking  each  other's  society  ;  but  we  were  as 
innocent  as  children.  The  chief  grew  jealous, 
and  commanded  her  to  speak  with  me  no 
more.  His  heart  became  hard  towards  her  ; 
his  jealousy  grew  more  furious.  He  beat  her 
without  cause  and  without  mercy  ;  and  threat- 
ened to  kill  her  outright,  if  she  even  looked  at 
me.     Do  you  want  traces  of  his  fury  ?     Look 


4' 


Stors  of  ftosato 


155 


B 


at  that  scar  !  His  rage  against  me  was  no  less 
persecuting.  War  parties  of  the  Crows  were 
hovering  round  us ;  our  young  men  had  seen 
their  trail.  All  hearts  were  roused  for  action  ; 
my  horses  were  before  my  lodge.  Suddenly 
the  chief  came,  took  them  to  his  own  pickets, 
and  called  them  his  own.  What  could  I  do  ? — 
he  was  a  chief.  I  durst  not  speak,  but  my 
heart  was  burning.  I  joined  no  longer  in  the 
council,  the  hunt,  or  the  war-feast.  What  had 
I  to  do  there  ?  an  unhorsed,  degraded  warrior. 
I  kept  by  myself,  and  thought  of  nothing  but 
these  wrongs  and  outrages. 

"I  was  .sitting  one  evening  upon  a  knoll 
that  overlooked  the  meadow  where  the  horses 
were  pastured.  I  saw  the  horses  that  were 
once  mine  grazing  among  those  of  the  chief. 
This  maddened  me,  and  I  sat  brooding  for  a 
time  over  the  injuries  I  had  suffered,  and  the 
cruelties  which  she  I  loved  had  endured  for 
my  sake,  until  my  heart  swelled  and  grew 
sore,  and  my  teeth  were  clinched.  As  I  looked 
down  upon  the  meadow,  I  saw  the  chief  walk- 
ing among  his  horses.  I  fastened  my  eyes  on 
him  as  a  hawk's  ;  my  blood  boiled  ;  I  drew 
my  breath  hard.  He  went  among  the  willows. 
In  an  instant  I  was  on  my  feet  :  my  hand  was 
on  my  knife — I  flew  rather  than  ran — before 
he  was  aware,  I  sprang  upon  him,  and  with 


i 


i 


I 


w. 


Mt^tulifi'^^iii 


I    , 


m 


nk 


III 


i      1  i 


Ml 


H 


III 


3Qoitncril(c'd  B^vcnturc^ 


two  blows  laid  hitn  dead  at  tny  feet.  I  covered 
his  body  with  earth,  and  strewed  bushes  over 
the  place  ;  then  hastened  to  her  I  loved,  told 
her  what  I  had  done,  and  urged  her  to  fly  with 
lue.  She  only  answered  nie  with  tears.  I 
reminded  her  of  the  wrongs  I  had  suffered, 
and  of  the  blows  and  stripes  she  had  endured 
from  the  deceased  ;  I  had  done  nothing  but  an 
act  of  justice.  I  again  urged  her  to  fly  ;  but 
she  only  wept  the  moie,  and  bade  me  go.  .My 
heart  was  heavy,  but  my  eyes  were  dry.  I 
folded  my  arms.  '  'Tis  well,'  said  I,  '  Kosato 
will  go  alone  to  the  desert.  None  will  be  with 
him  but  the  wild  beasts  of  the  desert.  The 
seekers  of  blood  may  follow  on  his  trail.  They 
may  come  upon  him  when  he  sleeps,  and  glut 
their  revenge  ;  but  you  will  be  safe.  Kosato 
will  go  jl(me.' 

"  I  turned  away.  She  sprang  after  me,  and 
strained  me  in  her  arms.  *No,'  cried  she, 
'  Kosato  shall  not  go  alone !  Wherever  he 
goes  I  will  go — he  shall  never  part  from  me. ' 

"  We  hastily  took  in  our  hands  such  things 
as  we  most  needed,  and  stealing  quietly  from 
the  village,  mounted  the  first  horses  we  en- 
countered. Speeding  day  and  night,  we  soon 
reached  this  tribe.  They  received  us  with 
welcome,  and  we  have  dwelt  with  them  in 
peace.     They  are  good  and  kind :    they   are 


^o>fj 


m 


'-\ 


Ov 


^^K 


<n\ 


^ 


n^ 


>N 


StorKj  or  Ikodato 


honest ;   but  their  hearts  are   the   hearts  of 
\.()inen.  " 

Such  was  the  story  of  Kosato,  as  related  l)y 
him  to  Captain  Bonneville.  It  is  of  a  kind 
that  often  occurs  in  Indian  life  ;  where  love 
elopements  from  tribe  to  tribe  are  as  frequent 
as  among  the  novel-read  heroes  and  heroines 
of  sentinieJital  civilization,  and  often  give  rise 
to  bloody  and  lasting  feuds. 


I  I    \' 


i! 


^^<<:*^<,j>fi 


^.-^ 


II 


^ 
^ 


1^ 


^h1 


r 


.:^ 


Cbaptcc  PW. 

The  Part}  Enters  the  Mountain  Gorge — A  Wild 
Fastness  among  the  Hills — Mountain  Mutton — 
Peace  and  Plenty — The  Amorous  Trapper — A  Pie- 
bald Wedding— A  Free  Trapper's  Wife— Her  Gala 
Equipments — Christmas  in  the  Wilderness. 


O 


N  the  19th  of  Deceml)er  Captain  Bonne- 
ville and  his  confederate  Indians  raised 
their  camp,  and  entered  the  narrow 
gorge  made  by  the  north  fork  of  Salmon  River. 
Up  this  laj-  the  secure  and  plenteous  hunting 
region  so  temptingly  described  by  the  Indians. 
Since  leaving  Green  River  the  plains  had 
invariabl}'  been  of  loose  sand  or  coarse  gravel, 
and  the  rocky  formation  of  the  mountains  of 
primitive  limestone.  The  rivers,  in  general, 
were  skirted  with  willows  and  bitter  cotton- 
wood  trees,  and  the  prairies  covered  with 
wormwood.  In  the  hollow  breast  of  the 
mountains  which  they  were  now  penetrating, 
the   surrounding   heights   were   clothed    with 


■«-■?<;  V 


.V 


i 


!j 


t 


pine ;  while  the  declivities  of  the  lower  hills 
afforded  abundance  of  bunch  grass  for  the 
horses. 

As  the  Indians  had  represented,  they  were 
now  in  a  natural  fastness  of  the  mountains, 
the  ingress  and  egress  of  which  was  by  a  deep 
gorge,  so  narrow,  rugged,  and  difficult,  as  to 
prevent  secret  approach  or  rapid  retreat,  and 
to  admit  of  easy  defense.  The  Blackfeet, 
therefore,  refrained  from  venturing  in  after  the 
Nez  Perces,  awaiting  a  better  chance,  when 
they  should  once  more  emerge  into  the  open 
fijjj       country. 

Captain  Bonneville  soon  found  that  the 
Indians  had  not  exaggerated  the  advantages 
of  this  region.  Besides  numerous  gangs  of 
elk,  large  flocks  of  the  ahsahta  or  bighorn,  the 
mountain  sheep,  were  to  be  seen  bounding 
among  the  precipices.  These  simple  animals 
were  easily  circumvented  and  destroyed.  A 
few  hunters  may  surround  a  flock  and  kill  as 
many  as  they  please.  Numbers  were  daily 
brought  into  camp,  and  the  flesh  of  those 
which  were  young  and  fat  was  extolled  as 
superior  to  the  finest  mutton. 

Here,  then,  there  was  a  cessation  from  toil, 
from  hunger,  and  alarm.  Past  ills  and  dangers 
were  forgotten.  The  hunt,  the  game,  the  song, 
the  story,    the  rough   though  good-humored 


<i:.J 


% 


•■  ) 


I        ) 


I,  I 


h 


'it. 


m 


(^1 


SJonnevUle'B  BDvcnturcs 


joke,  made  time  pass  joyously  away,  and  plenty 
and  seciirit}-  reigned  throughout  the  camp. 

Idleness  and  ease,  it  is  said,  lead  to  love, 
and  love  to  matrimony,  in  civilized  life,  and 
the  same  process  takes  place  in  the  wilderness. 
Filled  with  good  cheer  and  mountain  mutton, 
one  of  the  free  +  rappers  began  to  repine  at  the 
solitude  of  his  lodge,  and  to  experience  the 
force  of  that  great  law  of  nature,  "  It  is  not 
meet  for  man  to  live  alone." 

After  a  night  of  grave  cogitation,  he  repaired 
to  Kowsoter,  the  Pierced-Xose  chief ;  and  un- 
folded to  him  the  secret  workings  of  his  bosom. 

"I  want,"  said  he,  "  a  wife.  Give  me  one 
from  among  j-our  tribe.  Not  a  young,  giddy- 
pated  girl,  that  will  think  of  notliing  but 
flaunting  and  finery,  but  a  .sober,  discreet, 
hard-working  squaw  ;  one  that  will  share  my 
lot  without  flinching,  however  hard  it  may  be  ; 
that  can  take  care  of  my  lodge  and  be  a  com- 
panion and  a  helpmate  to  me  in  the  wilder- 
ness." Kowsoter  promised  to  look  around 
among  the  females  of  his  tribe,  and  procure 
such  a  one  as  he  desired.  Two  days  were 
requisite  for  the  search.  At  the  expiration  of 
these,  Kowsoter  called  at  his  lodge  and  informed 
him  that  he  would  bring  his  1)ride  to  him  in 
the  course  of  the  afternoon.  He  kept  his  word. 
At  the  appointed  time  he  approached,  leading 


)i 


^^^^M^mm^^ 


U  (Trapper  TlUcODing 


i6i       c^^ 


the  bride,  a  comely  copper-colored  dame,  at- 
tired ill  her  Indian  finery.  Her  father,  mother, 
brothers  by  the  half  dozen,  and  cousins  by  the 
score,  all  followed  on  to  grace  the  ceremony, 
and  greet  the  new  and  important  relative. 

The  trapper  i'!cei\ed  his  new  and  numer- 
ous family  connection  with  proper  solemnity  ; 
he  placed  his  bride  beside  him,  and,  filling  the 
pipe,  the  great  symbol  of  peace,  with  his  best 
tobacco,  took  two  or  three  whiffs,  then  handed 
it  to  the  chief,  who  transferred  it  to  the  father 
of  the  bride,  from  whom  it  was  passed  on  from 
hand  to  hand  and  mouth  to  mouth  of  the 
whole  circle  of  kinsmen  round  the  fire,  all 
maintaining  the  most  profound  and  becoming 
silence. 

After  several  pipes  had  been  filled  and  emp- 
tied in  this  solemn  ceremonial,  the  chief  ad- 
dressed the  bride  ;  detailing  at  considerable 
length,  the  duties  of  a  wife,  which,  among 
Indians,  are  little  less  onerous  than  those  of 
the  pack-horse  ;  this  done,  he  turned  to  her 
friends,  and  congratulated  them  upon  the  great 
alliance  she  had  made.  They  showed  a  due 
sense  of  their  good  fortune,  especially  when 
the  imptial  presents  came  to  be  distributed 
among  the  chiefs  and  relatives,  amounting  to 
about  one  hundred  and  eighty  dollars.  The 
company   soon   retired,  and  now  the  worthy 


(r  I. 


m^:S^ 


ii. 


I 


1 1 


V 


!t 


'k.< 


fi 


IP 


i  i 


li 


fll: 


i 


{i.r 


t^ 


lf)2 


3ConnevUlc'i3  BDvcnturcB 


trapper  found,  indeed,  that  he  had  no  green 
girl  to  deal  with ;  for  the  knowing  dame 
at  once  assumed  the  style  and  dignity  of  a 
trapper's  wife,  taking  possession  of  the  lodge 
as  her  •  indisputed  empire  ;  arranging  every- 
thing according  to  her  own  taste  and  habitudes  ; 
and  appearing  as  much  at  home,  and  on  as 
easy  terms  with  the  trapper,  as  if  they  had 
been  man  and  wife  for  years. 

We  have  already  given  a  picture  of  a  free 
trapper  and  his  horse,  as  furnished  by  Captain 
Bonneville  ;  we  shall  here  subjoin,  as  a  com- 
panion picture,  his  description  of  a  free  trap- 
per's wife,  that  the  reader  may  have  a  correct 
idea  of  the  kind  of  blessing  the  worthy  hunter 
in  question  had  invoked  to  solace  him  in  the 
wilderness. 

"The  free  trapper,  while  a  bacliiilc-,  has  no 
greater  pet  than  his  horse ;  but  the  momeiit 
he  takes  a  wife  (a  sort  of  brevet  rank  in  matri- 
mony occasionally  bestowed  upon  some  Indian 
fair  one,  like  the  heroes  of  ancient  chivalry,  in 
the  open  field),  he  discovers  that  he  has  a  still 
more  fanciful  and  capricious  animal  on  which 
to  lavish  his  expenses. 

"  No  sooner  does  an  Indian  belle  experience 
this  promotion,  than  all  her  notions  at  once 
rise  and  expand  to  the  dignity  of  her  situation  ; 
and  the  purse  of  her  lover,  and  his  credit  into 


«= 


% 


(•^ji>^^:il^T:^ 


t, 


§ 


m 


a  ffvce  Crappcr'8  XUlfe 


the  bargain,  are  tasked  to  the  utmost  to  fit  her 
out  in  bcconiitig  style.  The  \vi*e  of  a  free 
trapper  to  be  equipped  and  arrayed  Hke  any 
ordinary  and  undistinguished  squaw  ?  Perish 
the  groveUing  thought  !  In  the  first  place, 
she  must  have  a  horse  for  her  own  riding  ;  but 
no  jaded,  sorry,  earth-spirited  hack  ;  such  as 
is  sometimes  assigned  by  an  Indian  husband 
for  the  transportation  of  his  squaw  and  her 
pappooses  :  the  wife  of  a  free  trapper  must 
have  the  most  beautiful  animal  she  can  lay 
her  eyes  on.  And  then,  as  to  his  decoration  : 
headstall,  breast-bands,  saddle,  and  crupper  are 
lavishly  embroidered  with  beads,  and  hung 
with  thimbles,  hawks"  bells,  and  bunches  of 
ribands.  From  each  side  of  the  saddle  hangs 
an  csquimoot,  a  sort  of  pocket,  in  which  she 
bestows  the  residue  of  her  trinkets  and  knick- 
knacks,  which  cannot  be  crowded  on  the  dec- 
oration of  her  horse  or  herself.  Over  this 
she  folds,  with  great  care,  a  drapery  of  scarlet 
and  bright-colored  calicoes,  and  now  considers 
the  caparison  of  her  steed  complete. 

"As  to  her  own  person,  she  is  even  sail 
more  extravagant.  Her  hair,  esteemed  beau- 
tiful in  proportion  to  its  length,  is  carefully 
plaited,  and  made  to  fall  with  seeming  negli- 
gence over  either  breast.  Her  riding  hat  is 
stuck  full  of  parti-colored  feathers  ;  her  robe, 


V^  ; 


L-'-'y 


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if 


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in 


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\i 


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JBi^nncvlllc's  BDvcnturcd 


fashioned  somewhat  after  that  of  the  whites, 
is  of  red,  green,  and  sometimes  gray  cloth,  but 
ahva\'S  of  the  finest  texture  that  can  be  pro- 
cured. Her  leggins  and  moccasins  are  of  the 
most  beautiful  and  expensive  workmanship, 
and  fitted  neatly  to  the  foot  and  ankle,  which 
with  the  Indian  women  are  generally  well 
formed  and  delicate.  Then  as  to  jewelrj'  :  in 
the  way  of  finger-rings,  ear-rings,  necklaces, 
and  other  female  glides,  nothing  within  reach 
of  the  trapper's  means  is  omitted,  that  can  tend 
to  impress  the  beholder  with  an  idea  of  the 
lady's  high  estate.  To  finish  the  whole,  she 
selects  from  among  her  blankets  of  various 
dyes,  one  of  some  glowing  color,  and  throwing 
it  over  her  shoulders  with  a  native  grace, 
vaults  into  the  saddle  of  her  gay,  prancing 
steed,  and  is  ready  to  follow  her  mountaineer 
'  to  the  last  gasp  with  love  and  loyalty.'  " 

Such  is  the  general  picture  of  the  free  trap- 
per's wife,  given  by  Captain  Bonneville  ;  how 
far  it  applied  in  its  details  to  the  one  in  ques- 
tion does  not  altogether  appear,  though  it 
would  seem  from  the  outset  of  her  commbial 
career,  that  she  was  ready  to  avail  herself  of 
all  the  pomp  and  circumstance  of  her  new  con- 
dition. It  is  worthy  of  mention  that,  wher- 
ever there  are  several  wives  of  free  trappers 
in  a  camp,  the  keenest  rivalry  exists  between 


L 


them,  to  the  sore  detriment  of  their  husbands' 
'^■J  purses.  Their  whole  time  is  expended,  and 
their  ingenuity  tasked  by  endeavors  to  echpse 
each  other  in  dress  and  decoration.  The 
jealousies  and  heart-burnings  thus  occasioned 
among  these,  so  styled,  children  of  nature 
are  equally  intense  with  those  of  the  rival 
leaders  of  style  and  fashion  in  the  luxurious 
abodes  of  civilized  life. 

The  genial  festival  of  Christmas,  which 
throughout  all  Christendom  lights  up  the  fire- 
side of  home  with  mirth  and  jollity,  followed 
hard  upon  the  wedding  just  described.  Though 
far  from  kindred  and  friends,  Captain  Boinie- 
ville  and  his  handful  of  free  trappers  were  not 
disposed  to  suffer  the  festival  to  pass  unen- 
joyed ;  thej'  were  in  a  region  of  good  cheer, 
and  were  disposed  to  be  joyous  ;  so  it  was  de- 
termined to  "light  up  the  yule  clog,"  and 
celebrate  a  merry  Christmas  in  the  heart  of  the 
wilderness. 

On  Christmr.s  eve,  accordingly,  they  began 
their  rude  fetes  and  rejoicings.  In  the  course 
of  the  night  the  free  trappers  surrounded  the 
lodge  of  the  Pierce-Nosed  chief,  and  in  lieu  of 
Christmas  carols,  saluted  him  with  o.  feu  de 
joie. 

Kowsoter  received  it  in  a  truly  Christian 
spirit,  and   after  a  speech,    in  which   he  ex- 


to  6?^:^^^ 


^ 


1] 

ii.,  \i 


^  I 


I 

If 

It. 


4 


I*! 


li 


Ii 


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ii 


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d 


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presseci  his  high  gratification  at  the  honoi 
done  him,  invited  the  whole  company  to  a 
ieast  on  the  following  day.  His  invitation 
was  gladly  accepted.  A  Christmas  dinner  in 
the  wigwam  of  an  Indian  chief !  There  was 
novelty  in  the  idea.  Not  one  failed  ti;  be  prcs- 
\\.5l  ent.  The  banquet  was  .ser\'ed  up  in  primitive 
style  :  .skins  of  various  kinds,  nicely  dressed 
for  the  occasion,  were  spread  upon  the  ground  ; 
upon  these  were  heaped  up  abundance  of  veni- 
son, elk  meat,  and  mountain  mutton  ;  with 
various  bitter  roots,  which  the  Indians  use  as 
condiments. 

After  a  short  prayer,  the  company  all  seated 
themselves  cross-legged,  in  Turkish  fashion, 
to  the  banquet,  which  passed  off  with  great 
hilarity.  After  which  various  games  of  strength 
and  agility,  by  both  white  men  and  Indians, 
closed  the  Christtnas  festivities. 


^ 


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Cbaptcr  i*U. 

A  Hunt  after  Hunters — Hutij^ry  Times — A  Voracious 
Repast — Wintry  Weather— Goilin's  River— Splen- 
did Winter  Scene  on  the  Great  Lava  Plain  of  Snake 
River — Severe  Travelling  and  Tramping  in  the 
Snow — MancEUvres  of  a  Solitary  Indian  Horseman 
— Encampment  on  Snake  River — Banneck  Indians 
— The  Horse  Chief— His  Charmed  Life. 

THE  continued  absence  of  Matthieit  and 
his  party  had,  by  this  time,  caused  great 
uneasiness  in  the  mind  of  Captain  Bonne- 
ville ;  and,  finding  there  was  no  dependence 
to  be  placed  upon  the  perseverance  and  cottr- 
age  of  scotiting  parties,  in  so  perilous  a  quest, 
he  determined  to  set  out  himself  on  the  search, 
atid  to  keep  on  until  he  sliould  ascertain  some- 
thing of  the  object  of  his  solicitude. 

Accordingly,  on  the  26th  December,  he  left 
the  camp,  accompanied  by  thirteen  stark  trap- 
pers and  hunters,  all  well  mounted  and  armed 
for  dangerous  enterprise.  On  the  following 
morning  they  passed  out  at  the  head  of  the 


N*^.' 


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38oimcvUlc's  aovcnturcs 


mountain  gorge,  and  sallied  forth  into  the 
open  plain.  As  they  confidently  expected  a 
brush  with  the  Black leet,  or  some  other  preda- 
tory horde,  they  moved  with  great  circum- 
spection, and  kept  vigilant  watch  in  their 
encampments. 

In  the  course  of  another  day  they  left  the 
main  branch  of  Salmon  River,  and  proceeded 
south  towards  a  pass  called  John  Day's  Defile. 
It  was  severe  and  arduous  travelling.  The 
plains  were  swept  by  keen  and  bitter  blasts 
of  wintr>-  wind ;  the  ground  was  generally 
covered  with  snow,  game  was  scarce,  so  that 
hunger  generally  prevailed  in  the  camp,  while 
the  want  of  pasturage  soon  began  to  manifest 
itself  in  the  declining  vigor  of  the  horses. 

The  party  had  scarcely  encamped  on  the 
afternoon  of  the  28th,  when  two  of  the  hunt- 
ers who  had  sallied  forth  in  quest  of  game 
came  galloping  back  in  great  alarm.  While 
hunting  they  had  perceived  a  party  of  sav- 
ages, evidently  manoeuvring  to  cut  them  off 
from  the  camp  ;  and  nothing  had  saved  them 
from  being  entrapped  but  the  speed  of  their 
horses. 

These  tidings  struck  dismay  into  the  camp. 
Captain  Bonneville  endeavorsd  to  reassure  his 
men  by  representing  the  position  of  their  en- 
campment, and  its  capability  of  defense.     He 


b^- 


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fjunger  in  tbe  Camp 

then  ordered  the  horses  to  be  driven  in  and 
picketed,  and  threw  up  a  rough  breastwork  of 
fallen  trunks  of  trees,  and  the  vegetable  rub- 
bish of  the  wilderness.  Within  this  barrier 
was  maintained  a  vigilant  watch  throughout 
the  night,  which  passed  away  without  alarm. 
At  early  dawn  they  scrutinized  the  surround- 
ing plain,  to  discover  whether  any  enemies 
had  been  lurking  about  during  the  night ;  not 
a  foot-print,  however,  was  to  be  discovered  in 
the  coarse  gravel  with  which  the  plain  was 
covered. 

Hunger  now  began  to  cause  more  uneasi- 
ness than  the  apprehensions  of  surrounding 
enemies.  After  marching  a  few  miles  they 
encamped  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain,  in  hopes 
of  finding  buffalo.  It  was  not  until  the  next 
day  that  they  discovered  a  pair  of  fine  bulls 
on  the  edge  of  the  plain,  among  rocks  and 
ravines.  Hav'ing  now  been  two  days  and  a 
half  without  a  mouthful  of  food,  they  took 
especial  care  that  these  animals  should  not 
escape  them.  While  some  of  the  surest  marks- 
men advanced  cautiously  with  their  rifles  into 
the  rough  ground,  four  of  the  best  mounted 
horsemen  took  their  stations  in  the  plain,  to 
run  the  bulls  down  should  they  only  be 
maimed. 

The  buffalo  were  wounded,   and  set  off  in 


ll 


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l^l^i 


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headlong  flight.  The  half-famished  horses 
were  too  weak  to  overtake  them  on  the  frozen 
ground,  but  SU(  ceeded  in  driving  them  on  the 
ice,  where  they  slipped  and  fell,  and  were  easi- 
\y  dispatched.  The  hunters  loaded  themselves 
with  beef  for  present  and  future  supply,  and 
then  returned  and  encamped  at  the  last  ii'ght's 
fire.  Here  they  passed  the  remainder  of  the 
day,  cooking,  and  eating  with  a  voracity  pro 
portioned  to  previous  starvation  ;  forgetting, 
in  the  hearty  revel  of  the  moment,  the  certain 
dangers  with  which  they  were  environed. 

The  cravings  of  hunger  being  satisfied,  they 
now  began  to  debate  about  their  further  pro- 
gress. The  men  were  much  disheartened  by 
the  hardships  they  had  already  endured.  In- 
deed, two  who  had  been  in  the  rear-guard,  tak- 
ing advantageoflhcirposition  had  deserted  and 
returned  to  the  lodges  of  the  Nez  Perces.  The 
prospect  ahead  was  enough  to  stagger  the 
stoutest  heart.  They  were  in  the  dead  of 
winter.  As  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  the 
wild  landscape  was  wrapped  in  snow  ;  which 
was  evidently  deepening  as  they  advanced. 
Over  this  they  would  have  to  toil  with  the  icy 
wind  blowing  in  their  faces  ;  their  horses  might 
give  out  through  want  of  pasturage  ;  and  they 
themselves  must  expect   intervals  of  horrible 


famine  like  that  they  had  already  experienced. 


^i 


-j^ 


'? 


Untcndc  ColD 


I7X 


With  Captain  Bonneville,  however,  perse- 
verance was  a  matter  of  pride  ;  and  having 
undertaken  this  enterprise,  nothing  could  turn 
him  back  until  it  was  accomplished  :  though  he 
declares  that,  had  he  anticipated  the  difhcul- 
ties  and  sufferings  which  attended  it,  he  should 
have  flinched  from  the  undertaking 

Onward,  therefore,  the  little  band  urged 
their  way,  keeping  along  the  course  of  a 
stream  called  John  Day's  Creek.  The  cold 
was  so  intense  that  they  had  frefjuently  to  dis- 
mount and  travel  on  foot,  lest  they  .should 
freeze  in  their  saddles.  The  days,  which,  at 
this  sea.son,  are  short  enough  even  in  the  open 
prairies,  were  narroweil  to  a  few  hours  Ijy  the 
high  mountains,  which  allowed  the  travellers 
but  a  brief  enjoyment  of  the  cheering  rays  of 
the  sun.  The  snow  was,  generally,  at  least 
twenty  inches  in  depth,  and  in  many  places 
much  more  :  those  who  dismounted  had  to  beat 
their  way  with  toilsome  steps.  Eight  miles 
were  considered  a  good  day's  journey.  The 
horses  were  almost  famished  ;  for  the  herbage 
was  covered  by  the  deep  snow,  .so  that  they  had 
nothing  to  subsist  upon  but  scanty  wisps  of 
the  dry  bunch  grass  which  peered  above  the 
surface,  and  the  small  branches  and  twigs  of 
frozen  willows  and  wor:nwo<Kl. 

In  this  way  they  urged  their  slow  and  pain- 


Otj 


^m^  %i^ 


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I 


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%'^-H '  j7^^!S9HHMcy''^^MI'!)i''W''''*^!Ht3ir~ 


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172 


JBonncvUIe'd  BDvcnturcd 


l'^^ 


fill  course  to  the  south  down  John  Day's  Creek, 
until  it  lost  itself  in  a  swamp.  Here  they  en- 
camped upon  the  ice  among  stiffened  willows, 
where  they  were  obliged  to  beat  down  and 
clear  away  the  snow  to  procure  pasturage  for 
their  horses. 

Hence,  they  toiled  on  to  Godin  River  ;  so 
called  after  an  Iroquois  hunter  in  the  service 
of  Sublette,  who  was  murdered  there  by  the 
Blackfeet.  Many  of  the  features  of  this  remote 
wilderness  are  thus  named  after  scenes  of  vio- 
lence and  bloodshed  that  occurred  to  the  early 
pioneers.  It  was  an  act  of  filial  vengeance  on 
the  part  of  Godin's  son,  Antoine,  that,  as  the 
reader  may  recollect,  brought  on  the  recent 
battle  at  Pierre's  Hole. 

From  Godin's  River,  Captain  Bonneville 
and  his  followers  came  out  upon  the  plain  of 
the  Three  Butes  ;  so  called  from  three  singular 
and  isolated  hills  that  rise  from  the  midst.  It 
is  a  part  of  the  great  desert  of  Snake  River, 
one  of  the  most  remarkable  tracts  beyond  the 
mountains.  Could  they  have  experienced  a 
respite  from  their  sufferings  and  anxieties,  the 
immense  landscape  spread  out  before  them  was 
calculated  to  inspire  admiration.  Winter  has 
its  beauties  and  glories,  as  well  as  summer  ; 
and  Captain  Bonneville  had  the  soul  to  appre- 
ciate them. 


M 


y\ 


i! 


Indians  Crossntg  a  Kivcr  to  a  Trading 

From  an  cia  lithogyaph.   , 


w 


I  Hi 
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Far  away,  says  he,  over  the  vast  plains,  and 
up  the  steep  sides  of  the  lofty  mountains,  the 
snow  lay  spread  in  dazzling  whiteness :  and 
whenever  the  sun  emerged  in  the  morning 
above  the  giant  peaks,  or  burst  forth  from 
among  clouds  in  his  mid-day  course,  moun- 
tain and  dell,  glazed  rock  and  frosted  tree, 
glowed  and  sparkled  with  surpassing  lustre. 
The  tall  pines  seemed  sprinkled  with  a  silver 
dust,  and  the  willows,  studded  with  minute 
icicles  reflecting  the  prismatic  rays,  brought  to 
mind  the  fairy  trees  conj ured  up  by  the  caliph's 
story-teller,  to  adorn  his  vale  of  diamonds. 

The  poor  wanderers,  however,  nearly  starved 
with  hunger  and  cold,  were  in  no  mood  to  en- 
joy the  glr.r'.'^s  of  these  brilliant  scenes  ; 
though  they  stamped  pictures  on  their  mem- 
ory which  have  been  recalled  with  delight  in 
more  genial  situations. 

Encamping  at  the  west  Bute,  they  found  a 
place  swept  by  the  winds,  so  that  it  was  bare 
of  snow,  and  there  was  abundance  of  bunch 
grass.  Here  the  horses  were  turned  loose  to 
graze  throughout  the  night.  Though  for  once 
they  had  ample  pasturage,  yet  the  keen  winds 
were  so  intense  that,  in  the  morning,  a  mule 
was  found  frozen  to  death.  The  trappers 
gathered  round  and  mourned  over  him  as  over 
a  cherished    friend.     They   feared  their 


I 


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Ill 
1 


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^..'"^•C*    ^' 


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174 


:ffio»mcville*3  aDvcntures 


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; 


famished  horses  would  soon  share  his  fate,  for 
there  seemed  scarce  blood  enough  left  in  their 
veius  to  withstand  the  freezing  cold.  To  beat 
the  way  farther  through  the  snow  with  these 
enfeebled  animals  seemed  next  to  impossible  ; 
and  despondency  began  to  creep  over  their 
hearts  when,  fortunately,  they  discovered  a 
trail  made  by  some  hunting  party.  Into  this 
they  immediately  entered,  and  ])roceeded  with 
less  difficulty.  Shortly  afterward,  a  fine  buffalo 
bull  came  boundiu";  across  the  snow,  and  was 
instantly  bmught  down  bj'  the  hunters.  A 
fire  was  soon  blazing  and  crackling,  and  an 
ample  repast  soon  cooked,  and  sooner  dis- 
patched, after  which  they  made  some  further 
progress  and  thcin  encamped.  One  of  the  men 
t  -Vi^;f  reached  the  camp  nearl>-  frozen  to  death  ;  but 
good  cheer  and  a  blazing  fire  gradualh  '  - 
stored  life,  and  put  his  blood  in  circulation. 

Having  now  a  beaten  path,  they  proceeded 
the  next  morning  with  more  facility  ;  indeed 
the  snow  decreased  in  depth  as  they  receded 
from  the  mountains,  and  the  temperature  be- 
came more  mild.  In  the  course  of  the  daj', 
they  discovered  a  .solitary  honseman  hovering 
at  a  distance  before  them  on  the  plain.  They 
spurred  on  to  overtake  him  ;  but  he  was  better 
mounted  on  a  fresher  steed,  and  kept  at  a  wary 
distance,  reconnoitring  them  with  evident  dis- 


tA^ 


:^ 


V 


'^ 


C^^^-"*^^ 


^"-*^:S^-'^  •''"~=^p==^     r^'  L 


.V..J,-  y  t'  r  ^■   "i.xu-^  '^^  \c  --^tit 


B  XUilD  Iborecman 


175 


trust ;  the  wild  dress  of  the  free  trappers,  their 
leggi?is,  blanket,  and  cloth  caps  garnished 
with  fur  and  topped  off  with  feathers,  even 
their  very  elf-locks  and  weather-bronzed  com- 
plexions, gave  them  the  look  of  Indians  rather 
than  Avliite  men,  and  made  him  mistake  them 
for  a  war  party  of  some  hostile  tribe. 

After  much  manoeuvring,  the  wild  horseman 
was  at  length  brought  to  a  parley  ;  but  even 
then  he  conducted  himself  with  the  caution  of 
a  knowing  prowler  of  the  prairies.  Dismount- 
ing from  his  horse,  and  using  him  as  a  breast- 
work, he  levelled  his  gun  across  his  back,  and, 
thus  prepared  for  defense  like  a  wary  cruiser 
upon  the  high  seas,  he  pcnnitted  himself  to  be 
approached  within  speaking  distance. 

He  prove.'  to  be  an  Indian  of  the  Banneck 
tribe,  belonging  to  a  band  at  no  great  distance. 
It  was  some  time  before  he  could  be  persuaded 
that  he  was  conversing  with  a  party  of  white 
men,  and  induced  to  la}'  aside  his  reserve  and 
join  them.  He  then  gave  them  the  interesting 
intelligence,  that  there  were  two  companies  of 
white  men  encamped  in  the  neighborhood.  This 
was  cheering  news  to  Captain  Bonneville  ;  who 
hoped  to  find  in  one  of  them  the  long-sought 
party  of  Matthieu.  Pushing  forward ,  therefore, 
with  renovated  spirits,  he  reached  Snake  Ri\'er 
by  nightfall,  and  there  fixed  his  encampment. 


ijM<?2r:- 


rf-^ 


"'•I 

"ji'i' 
III' 

I 


Qi 


>  <^6''%!S' 


l5<^-' 


O 


.{ 


il 


nil 


176 


.IBonncvtlIc'9  BDvctiturce 


■HSi 


Early  the  next  morning  (13th  January,  1833), 
diligent  search  was  made  about  the  neighbor- 
hood for  traces  of  the  reported  parties  of  white 
men.  An  encampment  was  soon  discovered, 
about  four  miles  farther  up  the  river  ;  in  which 
Captain  Bonneville,  to  his  great  joy,  found 
two  of  Matthieu's  men,  from  whom  he  learnt 
that  the  rest  of  his  party  would  be  there  in  the 
course  of  a  few  days.  It  was  a  matter  of  great 
pride  and  self-congratulation  to  Captain  Bon- 
neville, that  he  had  thus  accomplished  his 
drearj'  and  doubtful  enterprise  ;  and  he  deter- 
mined to  pass  some  time  in  this  encampment, 
both  to  wait  the  return  of  Mattliieu,  and  to 
give  needful  repose  to  men  and  horses. 

It  was,  in  fact,  one  of  the  most  eligible  and 
delightful  wintering  grounds  in  that  whole 
range  of  countrj-.  The  Snake  River  here 
wound  its  devious  way  between  low  banks 
through  the  great  plain  of  the  Three  Butes  ; 
and  was  bordered  by  wide  and  fertile  meadows. 
It  was  studded  with  islands,  which,  like  the 
alluvial  bottoms,  were  covered  with  groves  of 
cotton-wood,  thickets  of  willow,  tracts  of  good 
lowland  grass,  and  abundance  of  green  rushes. 
The  adjacent  plains  were  so  vast  in  extent, 
that  no  single  band  of  Indians  could  drive  the 
buffalo  out  of  them  ;  nor  was  the  snow  of 
sufl&cient  depth   to  give    any  serious  incon- 


^^ 


'^ 


,A 


p 


M 


venience.  Indeed,  during  the  sojourn  of  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  in  this  neighborhood,  which 
was  in  the  heart  of  winter,  he  found  the 
weather,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  cold  and 
stormy  days,  generally  mild  and  pleasant ; 
freezing  a  little  at  night,  but  invariably  thaw- 
ing with  the  morning's  sun — resembling  the 
spring  weather  in  the  middle  parts  of  the 
United  States. 

The  lofty  range  of  the  Three  Teton^,  those 
great  landmarks  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
rising  in  the  east,  and  circling  away  to  the 
north  and  west  of  the  great  plain  of  Snake 
River  ;  and  the  mountains  of  Salt  River  and 
Portneuf  towards  the  south,  catch  the  earliest 
falls  of  snow.  Their  white  robes  lengthen  as 
the  winter  advances,  and  spread  themselves 
far  into  the  plain,  driving  the  buffalo  in  herds 
to  the  banks  of  the  river  in  quest  of  food ; 
where  they  are  easily  slain  in  great  numbers. 

Such  were  the  palpable  advantages  of  this 
winter  encampment ;  added  to  which,  it  was 
secure  from  the  prowlings  and  plunderings  of 
any  petty  band  of  roving  Blackfeet ;  the  diffi- 
culties of  retreat  rendering  it  unwise  for  those 
crafty  depredators  to  venture  an  attack,  unless 
with  an  overpowering  force. 

About  ten  miles  below  the  encampment  lay 
the  Banneck  Indians  ;  numbering  about  one 


^ 


VOL.  I.— la 


.'vr'^ 


tl 


M 


,  'I 


■'I,! 


II' 


!! 


II. 


"I  IJ 


I 


M 


<% 


ii 


ii!; 


M^-^  r^^.  a5>.  ,  V  iXf  «^^,,*^^" 


->        <J^   V-^  "^..>^    fc,'^        ^ .- 


■^^\i>^  ^*.V'     ntv 


3Bonncvillc'0  B^venturc^ 


hundred  and  twenty  lodges.  They  are  brave 
and  cunning  warriors,  and  deadly  foes  of  the 
Blackfeet,  whom  they  easily  overcome  in  bat- 
tles where  their  forces  are  equal.  They  are 
not  vengeful  and  enterprising  in  warfare,  how- 
ever ;  seldom  sending  war  parties  to  attack 
the  Blackfeet  towns,  but  contenting  themselves 
with  defending  their  own  territories  and  house. 
About  one  third  of  their  warriors  are  armed 
with  fuaees  ;  the  rest  with  bows  and  arrows. 

As  soon  as  the  .spring  opens,  they  move 
down  the  right  bank  of  Snake  River,  and  en- 
camp at  the  heads  of  the  Boisce  and  Payette. 
Here  their  horses  wax  fat  on  good  pasturage, 
while  the  tribe  revels  in  plenty  upon  the  flesh 
of  deer,  elk,  bear,  and  beaver.  They  then  de- 
scend a  little  farther,  and  are  met  by  the  Lower 
Nez  Perccs,  with  whom  they  trade  for  horses  ; 
giving  in  exchange  beaver,  buffalo,  and  buffalo 
robes.  Hence  they  strike  upon  the  tributary 
streams  on  the  left  bank  of  Snake  River,  and 
encamp  at  the  rise  of  the  Portneuf  and  Black- 
foot  streams,  in  the  buffalo  range.  Their 
horses,  although  of  the  Nez  Perce  breed,  are 
inferior  to  the  parent  stock,  from  being  ridden 
at  too  early  an  age  ;  being  often  bought  when 
but  two  years  old,  and  immediately  put  to 
hard  work.  They  have  fewer  horses,  also, 
than  most  of  these  migratory  tribes. 


i 


kuj:^^ 


\_J^ 


^•^'r^.,    .^y'^.i-T^.-^-^^    ,.csr>ir^.,_    '>?^-. 


£>^        *-t-J!5» 


Zbc  t>ot0c  Cbief 


^j^^^-'Oy  < 


179 


At  the  time  that  Captain  Bonneville  came 
into  the  neighborhood  of  these  Indians,  they 
were  all  in  mourning  for  their  chief,  surnamed 
7/W\  ^^^  Horse.  This  chief  was  said  to  possess  a 
charmed  life,  or  rather,  to  be  invulnerable  to 
lead  ;  no  bullet  having  ever  hit  him,  though 
he  had  been  in  repeated  battles,  and  often  shot 
at  bj'  the  surest  marksmen.  He  had  shown 
great  magnanimity  in  his  intercourse  with  the 
white  men.  One  of  the  great  men  of  his 
family  had  been  slain  in  an  attack  upon  a  band 
of  trappers  passing  through  the  territories  of 
.'/ji\\\\  his  tribe.  Vengeance  had  been  sworn  by  the 
L  *M^  Bannecks  ;  but  The  Horse  interfered,  declar- 
ing himself  the  friend  of  white  men,  and,  hav- 
ing great  influence  and  authority  among  his 
people,  he  compelled  them  to  forego  all  vin- 
dictive plans,  and  to  conduct  themselves  ami- 
cably whenever  they  came  in  contact  with  the 
traders. 

This  chief  had  bravely  fallen  in  resisting  an 
attack  made  by  the  Blackfeet  upon  his  tribe, 
while  encamped  at  the  head  of  the  Godin  River. 
His  fall  in  nowise  lessened  the  faith  of  his 
people  in  his  charmed  life  ;  for  they  declared 
that  it  was  not  a  bullet  which  laid  him  low, 
but  a  bit  of  Korn  which  had  been  .shot  into  him 
by  some  Blackfoot  marksman  ;  aware  no  doubt, 
of  the  inefficiency  of  lead.     Since  his  death, 


;ii 


ij 


-I  i 


I1 

fi  I  'I 


if 


i^ 


-  4^"^^^^^ 


I 


u>j 


SBonncvUlc'd  BDvcnturc0 


there  was  no  otie  with  sufficient  influence  over 
the  tribe  to  restrain  the  wild  and  predatory- 
propensities  of  the  youn,i(  men.  The  conse- 
quence was,  they  had  become  troublesome  and 
dangerous  neighbors  ;  openly  friendly,  for  the 
sake  of  traffic,  l)Ut  disposed  to  commit  secret 
depredations,  and  to  molest  any  small  party 
that  might  fall  within  their  reach. 


I 


--"W 


i^ 


ii 


( 


■J   I 


Gbapter  JDH. 


•^cP 


r-i 


Misadvciituris  of  Matthicu  and  his  Party — Return  to 
the  Caches  at  Sahnoii  River — Battle  between  Xez 
Perces  and  lUackfeet— Ileroistn  of  a  Nez  Perce 
Woman — Knrolled  atnon^  the  Uraves. 

ON  the  3(1  of  February,  Matthieu,  with 
the  residue  of  liis  band,  arrived  in 
camp.  He  had  a  disastrous  story  to 
relate.  After  parting  with  Captain  Bonneville 
in  Green  River  \'alley,  he  had  proceeded  to 
the  westward,  keeping  to  the  north  of  the  Eu- 
taw  Mountains,  a  .spur  of  the  great  Rocky 
chain.  Here  he  experienced  the  most  rugged 
travelling  for  his  horses,  and  soon  discovered 
that  there  was  but  little  chance  of  meeting  the 
Shoshonie  bands.  He  now  proceeded  along 
Bear  River,  a  stream  much  freqttented  by  trap- 
pers ;  intending  to  shape  his  course  to  Salmon 
River,  to  rejoin  Captain  Bonneville. 

He  was  misled,  however,  either  through  the 
ignorance  or  treachery  of  an  Indian  guide,  and 


:v 


% 


■xS^ 


I  II 


■'SSSSPi- 


II 


i  { 


i  i 


:fi3onnev>tlle'0  Bdventures 


conducted  into  a  wild  valley,  where  he  lay 
encamped  d  ^  -ing  the  autumn  and  the  earlj' 
part  of  the  winter,  nearly  buried  in  snow,  and 
almost  starved.  Early  in  the  season  he  de- 
tached five  men,  with  nine  horses,  to  proceed 
to  the  neighborhood  of  Sheep  Rock,  on  Bear 
River,  where  game  was  plenty,  and  there  to 
procure  a  supply  for  the  camp.  They  had  not 
proceeded  far  on  their  expedition,  when  their 
trail  was  d.  ;covered  by  a  party  of  nine  or  ten 
Indians,  w  ;;o  immediately  commenced  a  lurk- 
ing pursuit,  dogging  them  secretly  for  five  or 
six  days.  So  long  as  their  encampments  were 
well  f^ho.sen,  and  a  proper  watch  maintained, 
the  wary  savages  kept  aloof;  at  length,  observ- 
ing that  they  were  badly  encamped,  in  a  situa- 
tioti  where  they  might  be  approached  with 
secrecy,  thec'ierr. ,- crept  stealthily  along  under 
cover  of  »he  r".  .'fr  bank,  preparing  to  burst 
suddenly  upon  their  prey. 

They  hid  n-^t  advanced  within  striking  dis- 
tance, however,  before  the  were  discovered  by 
one  of  the  trappt.-r...  He  immediately,  but 
silently,  gave  the  alarm  to  his  companions. 
Tiiey  all  sprang  upon  their  horses,  and  pre- 
pared to  retreat  to  a  safe  position.  One  of  the 
party,  however,  named  Jemiings,  doubted  the 
correctness  of  the  alarm,  and  before  he  mounted 
his  horse,  wanted  to  ascertain  the  fact.     His 

'MM 


->.« 


/, 


4^ 


*>-A 


■d 


n'^ 


2 


li 


4 


~-r 


■1 


War  Dance  of  the  Banneck  Indiam 


From  an  old  f«>',"i;7'/«i'. 


\} 


le 


"  I 

I 


n^^" 


ill  III 


^^y^ 


1^. 


SSUB^ 


if, 

/ 


HI    ' 


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*  t.  '"miffr' 


I , 


i  I 


I-  i 
it  ( 


"n,, 


•Is 


■H'i 


,'"''"" 

['iiij;/(iiii^'' 


iu\v5 


'  .)/ 


flVv 


Encounter  witb  IfnMans  183 

companions  urged  him  to  mount,  but  in  vain  ; 
he  was  incredulous  and  obstinate.  A  volley 
of  fire-arms  by  the  savages  dispelled  his  doubts, 
but  so  overpowered  his  nerves  that  he  was 
unable  to  get  into  his  saddle.  His  comrades, 
seeing  his  peril  and  confusion,  generously  leapt 
from  their  horses  to  protect  him.  A  .'.lot  from 
a  rifle  brought  him  to  the  earth  ;  in  .  .is  agony 
he  called  upon  the  others  not  to  desert  him. 
Two  of  them,  L,e  Roy  and  Ross,  after  fighting 
desperately,  were  captured  by  the  savages  ;  the 
remaining  two  vaulted  into  their  saddles,  and 
saved  themselves  by  headlong  flight,  being 
pursued  for  nearly  thirtj'  miles.  They  got  safe 
back  to  Matthieu's  camp,  where  their  story  in- 
spired such  dread  of  lurking  Indians,  that  the 
hunters  could  not  be  prevailed  upon  to  under- 
take another  foray  in  quest  of  provisions. 
They  remained,  therefore,  almost  starving  in 
their  camp  ;  now  and  then  killing  an  old  or 
disabled  horse  for  food,  while  the  elk  and  the 
mountain  sheep  roamed  unmolested  among  the 
surrounding  mountains. 

The  disastrous  surprisal  of  this  hunting 
party  is  cited  by  Captain  Bonneville  to  show 
the  importance  of  vigilant  watching  and  judi- 
cious encampments  in  the  Indian  country. 
Most  of  this  kind  of  disasters  to  traders  and 
trappers  arise  from  some  careless  inattention 


M:b 


,/'/' 


/: 


!   li 


I 


i 

I 


'il 


Sties' 

184  JBonucpillc'6  BDveiUureg 


to  the  state  of  their  arms  and  ammunition,  the 
placing  of  their  horses  at  night,  the  position 
of  their  camping  ground,  and  the  posting  of 
their  night  watches.  The  Indian  is  a  vigilant 
and  crafty  foe  ;  by  no  means  given  to  hare- 
brained assaults  ;  he  seldom  attacks  when  he 
finds  his  foe  well  prepared  and  on  the  alert. 
Caution  is  at  least  as  efficacious  a  protection 
against  him  as  courage. 

The  Indians  who  made  this  attack  were  at 
first  supposed  to  be  ;31ackfeet  ;  until  Captain 
Bonneville  found,  subsequently,  in  tlie  camp 
of  the  Bannccks,  a  horse,  saddle,  and  bridle, 
which  he  recognized  as  having  belonged  to 
one  of  the  hunters.  The  Baimecks,  however, 
stoutly  denied  "having  taken  these  spoils  in 
fight,  and  persisted  in  affirming  that  the  out- 
rage had  been  perpetrated  by  a  Blackfoot  band. 

Captain  Bonneville  remained  on  Snake  River 
nearly  three  weeks  after  the  arrival  of  Matthieu 
and  his  party.  At  length  his  horses  having 
recovered  strength  .sufficient  for  a  journey,  he 
prepared  to  return  to  the  Nez  Perces,  or  rather 
to  visit  his  caches  on  Salmon  River  ;  that  he 
might  take  thence  goods  and  equipments  for 
the  opening  uf  the  season.  Accordingl}',  leav- 
ing sixteen  men  at  Snake  River,  he  set  out  on 
the  19th  of  February,  with  sixteen  others,  on 
his  journey  to  the  caches. 


l^/ 


.-»»«Mnjfcn»  >»,■»•» 


W0 

5 


i'^K.f 


/^i 


1bar?8bip3  of  tbc  ^arcb 


185 


Fording  the  river,  he  proceeded  to  the  bor- 
ders of  the  deep  snow,  when  he  encamped  under 
the  lee  of  immense  piles  of  burnt  rock.  On  the 
2ist  he  was  again  floundering  through  the 
snow,  on  the  great  Snake  River  plain,  where 
it  lay  to  the  depth  of  thirty  inches.  It  was 
sufficiently  incrusted  to  bear  a  pedestrian  ;  but 
the  poor  horses  broke  through  the  crust,  and 
plunged  and  strained  at  every  step.  So  lacer- 
ated were  they  by  the  ice,  that  it  was  necessary 
to  change  the  front  every  hundred  yards,  and 
put  a  different  one  in  the  advance,  to  break 
the  waj'.  The  open  prairies  were  swept  by  a 
piercing  and  biting  wind  from  the  northwest. 
At  night,  thej'  had  to  task  their  ingenuity  to 
provide  shelter  and  keep  from  freezing.  In 
the  first  place,  they  dug  deep  holes  in  the  snow, 
piling  it  up  in  ramparts  to  windward,  as  a  pro- 
tection against  the  blast.  Beneath  these,  they 
spread  buffalo  skins  ;  upon  which  they 
stretched  themselves  in  full  dress,  with  caps, 
cloaks,  and  moccasins,  and  covered  themselves 
with  numerous  blankets  ;  notwithstanding  all 
which,  they  were  often  severely  pinched  with 
the  cold. 

On  the  2Sth  of  February,  they  arrived  on  the 
banks  of  Godin  River.  This  stream  emerges 
from  the  mountains  opposite  an  eastern  branch 
of  the  Malade  River,  running  southeast,  forms 


''-> 


a-N 


^.-P 


<f%i 


I.    I 


ii 


li:   II 


.11  fl 
1     .1 


M[ 


I'll 

H 


hi- 

m 


I    I 


p 


^f?^ 


^-■^  iT*; 


i86 


SSonncvtUe'a  ZlDventurcs 


a  deep  and  swift  current  about  twenty  yards 
wide,  passing  rapidly  through  a  defile  to  which 
it  gives  its  name,  and  then  enters  the  great 
plain,  where,  after  meandering  about  forty 
miles,  it  is  finally  lost  in  the  region  of  the 
Bunit  Rocks, 

On  the  banks  of  this  river.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville was  so  fortunate  as  to  come  upon  a  buffalo 
trail.  Following  it  up.  he  entered  the  defile, 
where  he  remained  encamped  for  two  days,  to 
allow  the  hunters  time  to  kill  and  dry  a  supply 
of  buffalo  beef.  In  this  sheltered  defile,  the 
weather  was  moderate,  and  grass  was  already 
sprouting  more  than  an  inch  in  height.  There 
was  abundance,  too,  of  the  salt  weed  ;  which 
grows  most  plentiful  in  clayey  and  gravelly 
barrens.  It  resembles  pennyroyal,  and  derives 
its  name  from  a  partial  .saltness.  It  is  a  nour- 
ishing food  for  the  horses  in  the  winter,  but 
they  reject  it  the  moment  the  young  grass 
affords  sufficient  pasturage. 

On  the  6th  of  March,  having  cured  sufficient 
meat,  the  party  resumed  their  march,  and 
moved  on  with  comparative  ease,  excepting 
where  they  had  to  make  their  way  through 
snow-drifts  which  had  been  piled  up  by  the 
wind. 

On  the  nth,  a  small  cloud  of  smoke  was 
observed  rising  in  a  deep  part  of  the  defile. 


^•^ 


— ^. 


(i 


]6lacf;foot  Bmbusca^e 


187 


m 


An  encampment  was  instantly  formed,  and 
scouts  were  sent  out  to  reconnoitre.  They  re- 
turned with  intelligence  that  it  was  a  hunting 
party  of  Flatheads,  returning  from  the  buffalo 
range  laden  with  meat.  Captain  Bonneville 
joined  them  the  next  day,  and  persuaded  them 
to  proceed  with  his  party  a  few  miles  below,  to 
the  caches,  whither  he  proposed  also  to  invite 
the  Nez  Perces,  whom  he  hoped  to  find  some- 
where in  this  neighborhood.  In  fact,  on  the 
13th,  he  was  rejoined  by  that  friendly  tribe,  who, 
since  he  .separated  from  them  on  Salmon  River, 
had  likewise  been  out  to  hunt  the  buffalo,  but 
had  continued  to  be  haunted  and  harassed  by 
their  old  enemies  thv_  Blackfeet,  who,  as  usual, 
had  contrived  to  carr>'  off  many  of  their  horses. 
In  the  cour.se  of  this  hunting  expedition,  a 
small  band  of  ten  lodges  separated  from  the 
main  body,  in  search  of  better  pa  Hirage  for 
their  horses.  About  the  ist  of  March,  the 
scattered  parties  of  Blackfoot  banditti  united 
to  the  number  of  three  hundred  fighting  men, 
and  determined  upon  some  signal  blow.  Pro- 
ceeding to  the  former  camping  ground  of  the 
Nez  Perces,  they  found  the  lodges  deserted ; 
upon  which,  they  hid  themselves  among  the 
willows  and  thickets,  watching  for  some  strag- 
gler, who  might  guide  them  to  the  present 
"  whereabout  "  of  their  intended  victims.     As 


^x 


t  i 


f-^ 


Ni;! 


'< ',  * 


jV. 


'/, 


/ 


l\ 


\i 


.v: 


i88 


:fi3onncville'»5  BCvcnturcs 


fortune  would  have  it,  Kosato,  the  Blackfoot 
renegade,  was  the  first  to  pass  along,  accom- 
panied by  his  blood-bought  bride.  He  was  on 
his  way  from  the  main  body  of  hunters  to  the 
little  band  of  ten  lodges.  The  Blackfeet  knew 
and  marked  him  as  he  passed  ;  he  was  within 
bow-shot  of  their  ambuscade  ;  yet,  much  as 
they  thirsted  for  his  blood,  they  forbore  to 
launch  a  shaft  ;  sparing  him  for  the  moment, 
that  he  miglit  lead  them  to  their  prey.  Secretly 
following  his  trail,  they  discovered  the  lo.lges 
of  the  unfortunate  N  ■  Perces,  and  assailed 
them  with  .shouts  and  ycllings.  The  Nez 
Perces  numbered  onh'  twenty  men,  and  but 
nine  were  armed  with  fusees.  They  .showed 
themselves,  however,  as  brave  and  skilful  in 
war  as  they  had  l)ecn  mild  and  long-suffering  in 
peace.  Their  first  care  was  to  dig  holes  inside 
of  their  lodges  ;  thus  ensconced,  they  fought 
desjierately,  laying  s:everal  of  the  enemy  dead 
upon  the  ground  ;  while  they,  though  some  of 
them  were  wounded,  lost  not  a  single  warrior. 

During  the  heat  of  the  battle,  a  woman  of 
^,he  Nez  Perces,  .seeing  her  warrior  badly 
wounded  and  unable  to  fight,  seized  his  bow 
and  arrows,  and  bravely  and  successfully  de- 
fended his  person,  contributing  to  the  safety 
of  the  whole  party. 

In  another  part  of  the  field  of  action,  a  Nez 


i.1  i '  I 


a 


tur^ 


-^-^^nie 


:kfoot 
ccom- 
■as  on 
to  the 
knew 
vithin 
ch  as 
)re  to 
nient, 
cretly 
o>1ges 
sailed 
:  Nez 
d  but 
lowed 
ful  in 
ing  in 
inside 
ought 
'  dead 
me  of 
rrior. 
lan  of 
badly 
3  bow 
ly  de- 
safety 


% 


Lliti, 


% 


^ 


Heroism  of  a  Woman  of  the  Nez  Perch. 

From  a  Jiavnug  I'V  F.  S.  Church. 


I' 


i 


\ 
••    I" 

u 

4 


a  Nez 


|!) 


W^\ 


\\\ 


'r 


I  i' 


!( 


:i! 


<^ 


"* 

ill 

i 

1..    ( 

1! ' 

■',:l 

■-»*«4',^" 


ViA. 


BttacK  on  tbe  IFIC3  ipcrcc5 


Perce  had  crouched  behind  the  trunk  of  a  fallen 
tree,  and  kept  up  a  galling  fire  from  his  covert. 
A  Blackfoot  seeing  this,  procured  a  round  log, 
and  placing  it  before  him  as  he  lay  prostrate, 
rolled  it  forward  towards  the  trunk  of  the  tree 
behind  which  his  enemy  lay  crouched.  It  was 
a  moment  of  breathless  interest :  whoever  first 
showed  himself  would  be  in  danger  of  a  shot. 
The  Nez  Perce  put  an  end  to  the  suspense. 
The  moment  the  logs  touched,  he  sprang  upon 
his  feet,  and  discharged  the  contents  of  his 
fusee  into  the  back  of  his  antagonist.  By  this 
time,  the  Blackfeet  had  got  possession  of  the 
horses  ;  several  of  their  warriors  lay  dead  on 
the  field,  and  the  Nez  Perces,  ensconced  in 
their  lodges,  seemed  resolved  to  defend  them- 
selves to  the  last  gasp.  It  so  happened  that 
the  chief  of  the  Blackfeet  party  was  a  renegade 
from  the  Nez  Perces  :  unlike  Kosato,  however, 
he  had  no  vindictive  rage  against  his  nativ^e 
tribe,  but  was  rather  disposed,  now  he  had  got 
the  booty,  to  spare  all  imnecessary  effusion  of 
blood.  He  had  a  long  parley,  therefore,  with 
the  besieged,  and  finally  drew  off  his  warriors, 
taking  with  him  seventy  horses.  It  appeared, 
afterwards,  that  the  bullets  of  the  Blackfeet  had 
been  entirely  expended  in  the  course  of  the 
battle,  so  that  they  were  obliged  to  make  use 
of  stones  as  substitutes. 


'\ 


m 


"7*      ^C     ?*•  •'^       ' 


m 


w 


'■„\ 


^i 


190 


:iSonneville'd  BDventurca 


At  the  outset  of  the  fight,  Kosato,  the  rene- 
gade, fought  with  fury  rather  than  valor  :  ani- 
mating the  others  by  word  as  well  as  deed.  A 
wound  in  the  head  from  a  rifle  ball  laid  him 
senseless  on  the  earth.  There  his  body  re- 
mained when  the  battle  was  over,  and  the 
victors  were  leading  off"  the  horses.  His  wife 
hung  over  him  with  frantic  lamentations.  The 
conquerors  paused  and  urged  her  to  leave  the 
lifeless  renegade,  and  return  with  them  to  her 
kindred.  She  refused  to  listen  to  their  solicita- 
tions, and  they  passed  on.  As  she  sat  watch- 
ing the  features  of  Kosato,  and  giving  way  to 
passionate  grief,  she  thought  she  perceived 
him  to  breathe.  She  was  ncjt  mistaken.  The 
ball,  which  had  been  nearlj*  .spent  before  it 
struck  him,  had  stunned  instead  of  killing 
him.  By  the  ministry  of  his  faithful  wife,  he 
gradually  recovered  ;  reviving  to  a  redoubled 
love  for  her,  and  hatred  of  his  tribe. 

As  to  the  female  who  had  .so  bravely  de- 
fended her  husband,  she  was  elevated  by  the 
tribe  to  a  rank  far  above  her  .sex,  and,  beside 
other  honorable  distinctions,  was  thenceforward 
permitted  to  take  a  part  in  the  war-dances  of 
the  braves  ! 


1  xy'^v-^-O. 


>NV\ 


opening  of  the  Caches — Detachment  of  Cerr^  and 
Ilodgkiss — Salmon  River  Mountains — Superstition 
of  an  Indian  Trapper — Godin's  River — Preparations 
for  Trappinjis — An  Alarm — An  Interruption — A  Ri- 
val Band — Phenomena  of  Snake  River  Plain — Vast 
Clefts  and  Chasms— Ingulfed  Streams— Sublime 
Scenery — A  Grand  Buffalo  Hunt. 

CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE  found  his 
caches  perfectly  secure,  and  having 
secretl}'  opened  them,  he  selected  such 
articles  as  were  necessary  to  equip  the  free  trap- 
pers, and  to  supply  the  inconsiderable  trade 
with  the  Indians,  after  which  he  closed  them 
again.  The  free  trappers,  being  newly  rigged 
out  and  supplied,  were  in  high  .spirits,  and 
swaggered  gayly  about  the  camp.  To  coni- 
pen.sate  all  hands  for  past  sufferings,  and  to 
give  a  cheerftil  .spur  to  further  operations.  Cap- 
tain Botmeville  now  gave  the  men  what,  in 
frontier  phrase,  is  termed  "  a  regular  blow 
out."     It  was  a  day  of  inicouth  gambols  and 


^v 


ll 


i 


«»""■» .,  -i^i^ 


Hh 


^■^Ux 


u 


II 


I 

/ 


II 


(    .  ' 


^-^riiP^'^ 


192  :ffioinicvillc'5  BDvc tituiea 

frolics,  and  rude  feasting.  The  Indians  joined 
in  tlie  sports  and  games,  and  all  was  mirth  and 
good  fellowship. 

It  was  now  the  middle  of  March,  and  Cap- 
tain Romieville  made  preparations  to  open  the 
spring  campaign.  He  had  pitched  upon  Ma- 
lade  River  for  his  main  trapping  ground  for  the 
.season.  This  is  a  stream  which  rises  among 
the  great  bed  of  mountains  north  of  the  lava 
plain,  and,  after  a  winding  cour.se,  falls  into 
Snake  River.  Previous  to  his  departure,  the 
capti:in  dispatched  Mr.  Cerre,  with  a  few 
men,  to  visit  the  Indian  villages  and  purchase 
horses  ;  he  furnished  his  clerk,  Mr.  Ilodgkiss, 
also  'vith  a  small  stock  of  goods,  to  keep  up  a 
trade  with  the  Indians  during  the  spring,  for 
such  pellriL-s  as  they  might  collect,  appointing 
the  caches  on  Salmon  River  as  the  point  of 
rendezvous,  where  they  were  to  rejoin  him  on 
the  15th  of  June  following. 

This  done,  he  set  out  for  Malade  River  with 
a  band  of  twenty-eight  men,  composed  of  hired 
and  free  trappers  and  Indian  hunters,  together 
with  eight  squaws.  Their  route  lay  up  along 
the  right  fork  of  »Salmon  River,  as  it  passes 
through  the  deep  defile  of  the  mountains. 
They  travelled  very  slowly,  not  above  five 
miles  a  day,  for  many  of  the  horses  were  so 
weak  tlict  they  faltered  and  staggered  as  they 


I 


T 


/5i 


-w 


^c* 


l^ 


flnOian  Superstition 


walked.  Pasturage,  however,  was  now  grow- 
ing plentiful.  There  was  abundance  of  fresh 
grass,  which  in  .some  places  had  attained  such 
height  as  to  wave  in  the  wind.  The  native 
flocks  of  the  wilderness,  the  mountain  .sheep, 
as  the\-  are  called  by  the  trappers,  were  con- 
tinually to  be  seen  upon  the  hills  between 
which  they  passed,  and  a  good  supply  of  mut- 
ton was  provided  by  the  hunters,  as  they  were 
advancing  towards  a  region  of  .scare'  y. 

In  the  course  of  his  journey.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville had  occasion  to  remark  an  instance  of  the 
many  notions,  and  almost  superstitions,  which 
prevail  among  the  Indians,  and  among  .some 
of  the  white  men,  with  respect  to  the  sagacity 
of  the  beaver.  The  Indian  hunters  of  his 
party  were  in  the  habit  of  exploring  all  the 
streams  along  which  they  passed,  in  .search  of 
"beaver  lodges."  and  occasionally  .set  their 
traps  with  .some  .success.  One  of  them,  liow- 
ever,  though,  an  experienced  and  skilful  irap- 
per,  was  invariably  unsuccessful.  Astonished 
and  mortified  at  such  utuisual  bad  luck,  he  at 
length  conceived  the  idea,  that  there  was  .some 
odor  about  his  person,  of  which  the  beaver  got 
scent,  and  retreated  at  his  approach.  He  im- 
mediately .set  about  a  thorough  purification. 
Making  a  rude  sweating  house  on  the  banks 
of  the  river,  he  would  shut  himself  up  until  in 


•s-^. 


tlV' 


«-■«-' 

'^'i 


ii 


i:( 


I't 


■I;. I! 


-I 

J.    'J 


JBonnevillc'0  BOventured 


m&m^^ 


/.'■■^ 


<:?* 


a  reeking  perspiration,  and  then  suddenl}^ 
emerging,  would  plunge  into  the  river.  A 
number  of  these  sweatings  and  plungings  hav- 
ing, as  he  supposed,  rendered  his  person  per- 
fectly "inodorous,"  he  resumed  his  trapping 
with  renovated  hope. 

About  the  beginning  of  April,  they  encamped 
upon  Godin's  River,  where  they  found  the 
swamp  full  of  "  muskrat  houses."  Here, 
therefore,  Captain  Bonneville  determined  to 
remain  a  few  days  and  make  iiis  first  regular 
attempt  at  trapping.  That  his  maiden  cam- 
paign might  open  with  spirit,  he  promised  the 
Indians  and  free  trappers  an  extra  price  for 
every  muskrat  they  should  take.  All  now  set 
to  work  for  the  next  day's  sport.  The  utmost 
animation  and  gayety  prevailed  throughout 
the  camp.  Everything  looked  auspicious  for 
their  .spring  campaign.  The  abundance  of 
nm.skrats  in  the  swamp  was  but  an  earnest 
of  the  nobler  game  they  were  to  find  when 
they  should  reach  the  Malade  River,  and  have 
a  capital  beaver  country  all  to  themselves, 
where  they  might  tnip  at  their  leisure  without 
molestation. 

In  the  midst  of  their  gayety,  a  hunter  came 
galloping  into  the  camp,  shouting,  or  rather 
yelling,  "  A  trail  !  a  trail ! — lodge  poles  !  lodge 
poles!" 

^ 


if 


i 


^•^35 


^•^4^ 


I 


Vixyal  Wrappers 


195 


These  were  words  full  of  meaning  to  a  trap- 
per's ear.  Thej' intimated  that  there  was  some 
band  in  the  neighborhood,  and  probably  a 
hunting  party,  as  they  had  lodge  poles  for  an 
encampment.  The  hunter  came  up  and  told 
his  story.  He  had  discovered  a  fresh  trail, 
in  which  the  traces  made  by  the  dragging  of 
lodge  poles  were  distinctly  visible.  The  buf- 
falo, too,  had  just  been  driven  out  of  the 
neighborhood,  which  showed  that  the  hunters 
had  already  been  on  the  range. 

The  gayety  of  the  camp  was  at  an  end  ;  all 
preparations  for  niuskrat  trapping  were  sus- 
pended, and  all  hands  sallied  forth  to  examine 
tlie  trail.  Their  worst  fears  were  .soon  con- 
firmed. Infallible  .signs  showed  the  unknown 
party  in  the  advance  to  be  white  men  ;  doubt- 
less, some  rival  band  of  trappers  !  Here  was 
competition  when  least  expected  ;  and  that, 
too,  by  a  party  already  in  the  advance,  who 
were  driving  the  game  before  them.  Captain 
Bomieville  had  now  a  taste  of  the  sudden 
transitions  to  which  a  trapper's  life  is  subject. 
The  buoyant  confidence  in  an  uninterrupted 
luuit  was  at  an  end  ;  every  countenance  low- 
ered with  gloom  and  disappointment. 

Captain  Bonneville  immediately  dispatched 
two  spies  to  overtake  the  rival  party,  and  en- 
deavor to  learn  their  plans  ;  in  the  meantime, 
y>  ^ 


<K 


i 


t.i... 


\^X^ 


li.,     ' 

.1         ii 


>«  / ..  * ' 


k 


I 


l;|il 


i 


I 


p>. 


\'    196  JGonnevUlc's  BDrcnturcs 


he  turned  his  back  upon  the  swamp  and  its 
mnskrat  houses,  and  followed  on  at  "  long 
camps,"  which,  in  trapper's  languaj^e,  is 
equivalent  to  long  stages.  On  the  6th  of 
April,  he  met  his  fpies  leturning.  They  had 
kept  on  the  ^  mI  iikc  hounds,  until  they  over- 
took the  pa.  .1  •  .south  end  of  Godin's 
Defile.  Here  ley  1  and  them  comfortably 
encamped,  twenty-two  ['-i  le  trappers,  all  well 
appointed,  with  excellent  horses  in  capital 
condition,  led  by  Milton  Sublette  and  an  able 
coadjutor,  named  Jarvie,  and  in  full  march  for 
the  Malade  Inniting  ground. 

This  was  .stunning  news.  The  Malade  River 
was  the  only  trapping  ground  within  reach  ; 
but  to  have  to  compete  there  with  veteran 
trappers,  perfectly  at  home  among  the  moun- 
tains, and  admirabl)-  mounted,  while  they 
were  so  p(jorly  provided  with  horses  and  trap- 
pers, and  had  but  one  man  in  their  party  ac- 
quainted with  the  country — it  was  out  of  the 
question  ! 

The  only  hope  that  now  remained,  was  that 
the  snow,  which  still  lay  deep  among  the  moun- 
tains of  Godin  River,  an:'  blocked  up  the  usual 
pass  to  the  Malade  country,  might  detain  the 
other  party,  until  Captain  Bonneville's  horses 
.should  get  once  more  into  good  condition  in 
their  present  ample  pasturage. 


's^J^ 


'^n^  '^im^/i^:. 


x7 


i^ 


'\< 


Snnhc  IRivcr  ipiain 


>>.' 


hV> 


Tlv  rival  parties  now  encamped  together,  i 
not  Tilt  of  conii)anionship,  l)ut  to  keep  an  e\'e 
npon  each  other.  Day  after  day  passed  by, 
withont  any  possiliility  of  gettinj^  to  the  Ma- 
lade  country.  Sublette  and  Jarvie  endeavored 
to  force  their  waj'  across  the  mountain  ;  but 
the  snows  lay  so  deep  as  to  oblijre  them  to  turn 
back.  In  the  meantime,  the  captain's  horses 
were  daily  sainin,i;  stren;4th,  and  their  hoofs  ,^^^ 
improving,  which  had  Ijeen  worn  and  battered 
by  mountain  .service.  The  captain,  also,  was 
increa.sing  his  stock  of  provisions,  so  that  the 
delay  was  all  in  his  favor. 

To  any  one  who  merely  contemplates  a  map 
of  till!  country,  this  difficulty  of  getting  from 
Godin  to  Malade  River  will  appear  inexplica- 
ble, as  the  intervening  mountains  terminate  in 
the  great  Snake  River  plain,  so  that,  appar- 
ently, it  would  be  perfectly  easy  to  proceed 
round  their  bases. 

Here,  however,  occur  .some  of  the  .striking 
phenomena  of  this  wild  and  sublime  region. 
The  great  lower  plain  which  extends  to  the 
feet  of  these  mountains  is  broken  up  near  their 
ba.ses  into  crests  and  ridges,  resembling  the 
surges  of  the  ocean  breaking  on  a  /ocky  shore. 

In  a   line  witli  the  mountains,  the  plain  is 
gashed  with  numerous  and  dangerous  chasms,    ^  ^  ^ 
from  four  to  ten  feet  wide,  and  of  great  depth.      j2Lc 


o 


M 


II. 


J 


i!  'I 


I. 


igS 


3BonncviUc'»5  IlOvcnturcs 


> 


!! 


I 


!i  !:, 


(^.■^ 


c-< 


y 


c.,? 


;^i- 


Captain  Bonneville  attempted  to  soutid  some 
of  these  openings,  but  without  any  satisfactory 
result.  A  stone  dropped  into  one  of  them  re- 
verberated against  the  sides  for  apparently  a 
verj-  great  depth,  and,  by  its  sound,  indicated 
the  same  kind  of  substance  with  the  surface, 
as  long  as  the  strokes  could  be  heard.  The 
hor.se,  instinctively  sagacious  in  avoiding  dan- 
ger, shrinks  back  in  alarm  from  the  least  of 
these  chasms,  pricking  up  his  ears,  .snorting 
and  pawing,  initil  permitted  to  turn  away. 

We  have  been  told  by  a  person  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  country,  that  it  is  .some- 
times necessary  to  travel  fifty  and  sixty  miles, 
to  get  round  one  of  these  tremendous  ravines. 
Considerable  streams,  like  that  of  Godin's 
River,  that  run  with  a  bold,  free  current,  lose 
themselves  in  this  plain  ;  .some  of  them  end  in 
.swamps,  others  .suddenlj-  disappear,  finding, 
no  doubt,  subterranean  outlets. 

Opposite  to  the.se  chasms.  Snake  River  makes 
two  desperate  leaps  over  precipices,  at  a  short 
distance  from  each  other  ;  one  twenty,  the 
other  forty  feet  in  height. 

The  volcanic  plain  in  question  forms  an  area 
of  about  sixiy  miles  in  diameter,  where  noth- 
ing meets  the  eye  but  a  desolate  and  awful 
waste  ;  where  no  grass  grows  nor  water  runs, 
and  where   nothing   is  to   be   seen  but   lava. 


^^ 


'-^xK 


M 


«^^ 


•s,       ^ 


4^0 


;s. 


A 


0m 


B  Sea  of  Xava  199 


Ranges  of  mountains  skirt  this  plain,  and,  in 
Captain  Bonneville's  opinion,  were  formerly 
comiected,  until  rent  asunder  by  some  convul- 
sion of  nature.  Far  to  the  east,  the  Three 
Tetons  lift  their  heads  sublimely,  and  dominate 
this  wide  sea  of  lava  ; — one  of  the  most  striking 
features  of  a  wilderness  where  everything  seems 
on  a  scale  of  stern  and  simple  grandeur. 

We  look  forward  with  impatience  for  some 
able  geologist  to  explore  this  sublime  but 
almo.st  luiknown  region. 

It  was  not  until  the  25th  of  April,  that  the 
two  parties  of  trappers  l)roke  up  their  encamp- 
ments, and  inulertook  to  cross  over  the  south- 
west end  of  the  mountain  bj-  a  pass  explored 
by  their  .scouts.  From  various  points  of  the 
mountain  they  connnanded  boundless  pros- 
pects of  the  lava  plain,  stretching  away  in  cold 
and  gloomy  barrenness  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach.  On  the  evening  of  the  26th,  they 
reached  the  plain  west  of  the  mountain,  watered 
by  the  Malade,  the  Boisee,  and  other  streams, 
which  comprised  the  contemplated  trapping 
ground. 

The  country  about  the  Boisee  (or  Woody) 
River,  is  extolled  by  Captain  Boinieville  as  the 
most  enchanting  he  had  seen  in  the  Far  West ; 
presenting  the  mingled  grandeur  and  beauty 
of  mountain   and   plain  ;    of  bright    running 


t\  .-,; 


T 


!,  ( 


ii- 
■I    '' 

-44 

i 

Ml 
\  'I 

1!- 


i 


Ii' 


K  1 !  '1 


i'.y. 


n 


lA-l 


30onncvi[lc*3  IlC>vcnturc0 


strtanis  and  vast  grassy  meadows  waving  to 
the*  1jilx'/c. 

We  shall  not  follow  the  captain  throughout 
his  trapping  catnpaign,  which  lasted  until  the 
begiiniing  of  June;  nor  detail  all  the  niana^u- 
vres  of  the  rival  tra])i)ing  parties,  and  their 
various  schemes  to  outwit  and  out-trap  each 
other.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that  after  having 
visited  and  camped  about  various  streams  with 
various  success,  Captain  Bonneville  set  for- 
ward early  in  June  for  the  a]i]iointed  rendezvous 
at  the  caches.  On  the  way,  he  treated  his 
])arty  to  a  grand  buffalo  hunt.  The  scouts  had 
reported  numerous  herds  in  a  ]ilain  beyond  an 
intervening  height.  There  was  an  immediate 
halt  ;  the  fleetest  horses  were  forthwith 
mounted,  and  the  party  advanced  to  the  sum- 
mit of  the  hill.  Hence  they  beheld  the  great 
plain  below  absolutelj'  swanning  with  bufl"alo. 
Captain  Bonneville  now  appointed  the  place 
where  he  wcmld  encamp  ;  and  towards  which 
the  hunters  were  to  drive  the  game.  He 
cautioned  the  latter  to  advance  .slowly,  reserv- 
ing the  strength  and  .speed  of  the  horses,  luitil 
within  a  nuxlerate  di.stance  of  the  herds. 
Twenty-two  horsemen  descended  cautiously 
into  the  plain,  conformably  to  these  directions. 
"It  was  a  beautiful  sight,"  says  the  captain, 
"  to  see  the  runners,  as  they  are  called,  advan- 


/r-^^,<^  ,i>'> 


tkt 


Hrrlval  at  tlK  Caches  201 


,*^  cinj;  in  colunui,  at  a  slow  trot,  until  witliin  two  /,, 
hundred  and  fifty  yards  of  the  outskirts  of 
the  herd,  then  dashinj^  on  at  full  speed,  until 
lost  in  the  inunense  nuiltilude  of  buffaloes 
scouring  the  plain  in  every  direction."  All 
was  now  tumult  and  wild  confusion.     In  the 

'•?<  \;#  meantime.  Captain  Bonneville  and  the  residue 
of  the  party  moved  on  to  the  appointed  camp- 
ing ground  ;  thither  the  most  exj>ert  rumiers 
succeeded  in  driving  numbers  of  buffalo,  which 
were  killed   hard  by  the  camp,  and  the  flesh 

u^jtt^  transported  thither  without  difficult}-.  In  a 
little  while  the  whole  camp  looked  like  one 
great  .slaughter-house  ;  the  carcasses  were  skil- 
fully cut  up,  great  fires  were  made,  .scaffolds 
erected  for  drying  and  jerking  beef,  and  an 
ample  provi.sion  was  made  for  future  .sub.sist- 
ence.  On  the  15th  of  June,  the  precise  day 
appointed  for  the  rendez\i)us,  Captain  Boinie- 
ville  and  his  party  arrived  .safely  at  the  caches, 
Here  he  was  joined  by  the  other  detachments 
of  his  main  party,  all  in  good  health  and  spirits. 
The  caches  were  again  opened,  supplies  of  vari- 
ous kinds  taken  out,  and  a  liljeral  allowance  of 
(h]iia  vilte  distributed  throughout  the  camp,  to 
celebrate  with  proper  conviviality  this  merry 
meeting. 


n 


M.mm^ 


t! 


\.i 


I 


(< 

I 

I 


i  11 


^^iiiSSSf^ 


It 


(;t 


m 


-^ 


^ 


i' 


u^^V\. 


Meeting  with  Hodgkiss— Misfortunes  of  the  Nez 
Percys— Schemes  of  Kosato,  the  Renegado— His 
Foray  into  the  Horse  Prairie— Invasion  of  Blackfeet 
— Blue  John,  and  his  Torlorn  Hope — Their  Gener- 
ous Enterprise— Their  Fate— Consternation  and 
Despair  of  the  Village— Solemn  Obsequies— Attempt 
at  Indian  Trade— Hudson's  Bay  Company's  Monop- 
oly—Arrangements for  Autumn— Breaking  up  of 
an  Encampment. 

HA\'IXG  now  a  prettj-  strong  party,  well 
armed  and  equipped,  Captain  Bonne- 
ville no  longer  felt  the  necessity  of 
fortifying  himself  in  the  secret  places  and  fast- 
nesses of  the  mountains ;  but  sallied  forth 
boldly  into  the  Snake  River  plain,  in  search  of 
his  clerk,  Hodgkiss,  who  had  remained  with 
the  Nez  Perces.  He  found  him  on  the  24th  of 
June,  and  learnt  from  him  another  chapter  of 
misfortunes  which  had  recently  befallen  that 
ill-fated  race. 

After  the  departure  of  Captain  Boinieville,  in 


•^« 


> 

11 


/;. 


..:\ 


veil 


b 


^ 


Icosato's  Scbcmcs 


203 


March,  Kosato,  the  renegade  Blackfoot,  liad 
recovered  from  the  wound  received  in  battle  ; 
and  with  his  strength  revived  all  his  deadly 
hostility  to  his  native  tribe.  He  now  resumed 
his  efforts  to  stir  up  the  Nez  Perces  to  repri- 
sals upon  their  old  enemies ;  reminding  them 
incessantly  of  all  the  outrages  and  robberies 
they  had  recently  experienced,  and  assuring 
them  that  such  would  continue  to  be  their  lot, 
until  they  proved  themselves  men  by  some  sig- 
nal retaliation. 

The  impassioned  eloquf  .ice  of  the  desperado 
at  length  produced  an  effect  ;  and  a  band  of 
braves  enlisted  under  his  guidance,  to  penetrate 
into  the  Blackfoot  country,  harass  their  vil- 
lages, carry  off  their  horses,  and  commit  all 
kinds  of  depredations. 

Kosato  pushed  forward  on  his  foray,  as  far 
as  the  Horse  Prairie  ;  where  he  came  upon  a 
strong  party  of  Blackft-et.  Without  waiting 
to  estimate  their  force,  he  attacked  them  with 
characteristic  fury,  and  was  bravel}'  seconded 
by  his  followers.  The  contest,  for  a  time,  was 
hot  and  bloody  :  at  length,  as  is  customary 
witli  these  two  tribes,  they  paused,  and  held  a 
long  parley,  or  rather  a  war  of  words. 

"What   need,"    said    the    Blackfoot    chief, 
tauntingly,    "have   the 
their  homes,  anjcl  sally 


SIC? 


%- 


Nez 

forth 


Perces   to   leave 
oil  war  parties, 


'CA 


'<^r^*«c 


\  \\ 


: 


'H  f  I 


II 


S     .! 


iff 


.-s,-S.-^=*» 


V 


3. 


204 


:A}onnev>ille'd  BD\7etiturcs 


when  they  have  danger  enough  at  their  own 
doors?  If  you  want  fighting,  return  to  your 
villages ;  you  will  have  plenty  of  it  there. 
The  Blackfeet  warriors  have  hitherto  made 
war  upon  you  as  children.  They  are  now  com- 
ing as  men.  A  great  force  is  at  hand  ;  they 
are  on  their  way  to  your  towns,  and  are  de- 
termined to  rub  out  the  very  name  of  tlie  Nez 
Perces  from  the  mountains.  Return,  I  say,  to 
your  towns,  and  fight  there,  if  you  wish  to 
live  any  longer  as  a  people." 

Kosato  took  him  at  his  word  ;  for  he  knew 
tlie  character  of  his  native  tribe.  Hastening 
back  with  his  band  to  the  Nez  Perc6  village, 
he  told  all  that  he  had  seen  and  lieard  :  and 
mged  the  most  prompt  and  strenuous  meas- 
ures for  defense.  The  Nez  IVrces,  however, 
heard  him  with  their  accustomed  ])hlegm  :  the 
threat  of  the  Black f^'ct  had  been  often  made, 
and  as  often  had  jmived  a  mere  bravado;  such 
they  pronounced  it  to  be  at  present,  and,  of 
course,  to(.k  no  precaution. 

They  were  .soon  convinced  that  it  was  no 
empty  menace.  In  a  few  days,  a  band  of  three 
hundred  lilackfeet  warriors  appeared  upon 
the  hills.  .Ml  now  was  consternation  in  the 
village.  The  force  of  the  Nez  Perces  was  too 
small  to  cope  with  the  enemy  in  o])en  fight  ; 
many  of  the  young  men  having  gone  to  their 


iC^m 


r'-^i^'iX^' 


•X\-  \ 


■^ 


%■ 


;7 


■  'Wi 


JBUic  Jobn 


relatives  on  the  Columbia  tf;  procure  horses. 
The  sages  nit-t  in  hurried  council.  What  was 
to  be  done  to  ward  off  a  blow  which  threatened 
annihilation  ?  In  this  moment  of  imminent 
peril,  a  Pierced-Nose  chief,  named  Blue  John 
by  the  whites,  offered  to  approach  secretly 
with  a  small  but  chosen  band,  through  a  de- 
file which  led  to  the  encampment  of  the  enemy, 
and,  by  a  sudden  on.set,  to  drive  off  the  hor.ses. 
Should  this  blow  be  successful,  the  spirit  and 
strength  of  the  invaders  would  be  broken,  and 
the  Nez  Perces,  having  liorses,  wf)uld  be  more 
than  a  match  for  them.  Should  it  fail,  the 
village  would  not  be  wor.se  off  than  at  present, 
when  destruction  .seemed  inevitable. 

Twenty-nine  of  the  choicest  warriors  in- 
.stantly  volunteered  to  follow  Blue  John  in  this 
hazardous  enterprise.  They  prepared  for  it 
with  the  .solemnity  and  devotion  peculiar  to 
the  tribe.  Blue  John  consulted  his  medicine, 
oi  tali.smanic  charm,  such  as  every  chief  keeps 
in  his  lodge  as  a  supernatural  protection.  The 
oracle  assured  him  that  his  enterprise  would 
be  completel;  successful,  ])n>vi(led  no  rain 
slumld  fall  before  he  liad  pa.s.sed  thnmgh  the 
defile  ;  but  sh(>  Id  it  rain,  his  band  would  be 
utterly  cut  off. 

The  day  was  clear  and  bright  ;  and  Blue  John 
anticipated  that  the  skies  would  \k-  propitious. 


^'■J) 


M 


T 


1  A 


'I  / 


.  'i; 


I 


>\ 


,^.Af^^-V5 


m 


H 


k 


i' 


h 


206 


3BonnevUle'd  Bdventures 


He  departed  in  high  spirits  with  his  forlorn 
hope  :  and  never  did  band  of  braves  make  a 
more  jjallant  display — horsemen  and  horses  be- 
ing decorated  and  equipped  in  the  fiercest  and 
most  glaring  stj-le — glittering  with  arms  and 
ornaments,  and  fluttering  with  feathers. 

The  weather  continued  serene  until  they 
reached  the  defile  ;  but  just  as  they  were  enter- 
ing it,  a  black  cloud  rose  over  the  mountain 
crest,  and  there  was  a  sudden  shower.  The 
warriors  turned  to  their  leader  as  if  to  read 
his  opinion  of  this  unlucky  omen  ;  but  the 
countenance  of  Blue  John  remained  unchanged, 
and  they  continued  to  press  forward.  It  was 
their  hope  to  make  their  way,  undiscovered, 
to  the  very  vicinity  of  the  Blackfoot  camp  ;  l)ut 
they  had  not  proceeded  far  in  the  defile,  when 
they  met  a  scouting  party  of  the  enemy.  They 
attacked  and  drove  them  among  the  hills,  and 
were  pursuing  them  with  great  eagerness,  when 
they  heard  shouts  and  yells  behind  them,  and  be- 
held the  main  body  of  the  Blackfeet  advancing. 

Tlie  second  chief  wavered  a  little  at  the 
.sight,  and  propo.scd  an  instani  '  :..it.  "We 
came  to  fight!"  replied  Blue  J>i.:  ,  sternly. 
Then  giving  his  war-whoop,  he  .sprang  fi)rward 
to  the  conflict.  His  braves  followed  him. 
They  maile  a  headlong  charge  upon  tiie  enemy  ; 
not  with  the  hope  of  victory,  but  the  determi- 


Vk^I 


•{tP^  -*• 


A-AvWV-'C-^^ 


s'-v.^  M<^.^^^^^ 


i 


r^M 


i^UXirr^'i'  i'  '4l^CrF^ 


li 


B  jfctgbtful  Cacnade 


nation  to  sell  their  lives  dearly.  A  frightful 
carnage  rather  than  a  regular  battle,  succeeded. 
The  forlorn  band  laid  heaps  of  their  enemies 
dead  at  their  feet,  but  were  overwhelmed  with 
numbers,  and  pressed  into  a  gorge  of  the  moun- 
tain, where  they  continued  to  fight  until  they 
were  cut  to  pieces.  One,  only,  of  the  thirty 
survived.  He  sprang  on  the  horse  of  a  Black- 
foot  warrior  whom  he  had  slain,  and  escaping 
at  full  .speed,  brought  home  the  baleful  tidings 
to  his  village. 

Who  can  paint  the  horror  and  desolation  of 
the  inhabitants  ?  The  flower  of  their  warriors 
laid  low,  and  a  ferocious  enemy  at  their  doors. 
The  air  was  rent  by  the  shrieks  and  lamenta- 
tions of  the  women,  who,  casting  off  their 
ornaments,  and  tearing  their  hair,  wandered 
about,  frantically  l)ewailing  the  dead,  and  pre- 
dicting destruction  to  the  living.  The  remain- 
ing warriors  armed  themselves  for  obstinate 
defense  ;  but  sliowed,  by  their  gloomy  looks 
and  sullen  silence,  that  they  considered  defense 
hopeless.  To  their  surprise,  the  Blackfeet  re- 
frained from  pursuing  their  advantage  ;  per- 
haps satisfied  with  the  blood  already  shed,  or 
disheartened  by  the  loss  they  had  themselves 
sustained.  At  any  rate,  they  disappeared  from 
the  hills,  and  it  was  soon  ascertained  that  they 
had  returned  to  the  Horse  Prairie. 


.,^j{a^33|p* 


r,ttw<Sf- 


\''C 


I 


'"% 


"•I 


'jMk 


w 


w  i 


/fti iSSt 


^.-'SS-ssi/-' 


208 


JCoiincvirc'6  BOvcnturcs 


The  unfortunate  Xez  Perccs  now  began  once 
more  to  breathe.  A  few  of  their  warriors, 
taking  pack-horses,  repaired  to  the  defile  to 
luring  away  the  Ixxlies  of  their  shiughtered 
brethren.  The\'  found  thetn  mere  headless 
trunks  ;  and  the  wounds  with  which  tl:ey  were 
covered,  showed  how  bravely  they  had  fought. 
Their  hearts,  too,  had  been  torn  out  and  car- 
ried off;  a  proof  of  their  signal  valor;  for  in 
devouring  the  heart  of  a  foe  renowned  for 
V)ravery,  or  who  has  distinguished  himself  in 
battle,  the  Indian  victor  thinks  he  appropriates 
to  himself  the  courage  of  the  deceased. 

(iathering  the  mangled  boilies  of  the  slain, 
ami  stra))ping  tliem  across  their  pack-horses, 
tlie  warriors  returned,  in  dismal  procession,  to 
the  village.  The  tribe  came  forth  to  meet 
them  :  the  women  with  i)iercing  cries  and 
wailiiigs  ;  the  men  with  downcast  co..iitenances, 
in  which  ^loom  and  sorrow  seemed  fixed  as  if 
in  marble.  The  mutilated  and  almost  mulis- 
tinguishable  bodies  were  placed  in  rows  upon 
the  ground,  in  the  midst  of  the  assemblage  ; 
and  the  seen'-  of  heart-rending  anguish  and 
lameiuations  that  ensued,  wou'd  have  con- 
founded those  who  insist  on  Indian  stoicism. 

Such  was  the  disastrous  event  that  had  over- 
whi-lmed  >.'ie  Xez  Perce  tribe,  during  the 
absence  yi  Captain    Bonneville  ;    and  he  was 


■V' 


/^J 


informed  that  Kosato,  the  renegade,  who,  being 
stationed  in  the  village,  had  been  prevented 
from  going  on  the  forlorn  hope,  was  again 
striving  to  rouse  the  vindictive  feelings  of  his 
adopted  brethren,  and  to  prompt  them  to  re- 
venge the  slaughter  of  their  devoted  braves. 

During  his  sojourn  on  the  Snake  River  plain, 
Captain  Bonneville  made  one  of  his  first  essays 
at  the  strategy  of  the  fur  trade.  There  was  at 
this  time  an  assemblage  of  Xez  Perces,  Flat- 
heads,  and  Cottonois  Indians,  encamped  to- 
gether upon  the  plain  ;  well  provided  with 
beaver,  which  they  had  collected  during  the 
spring.  These  they  were  waiting  to  traffic 
with  a  resident  trader  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  who  was  stationed  among  them, 
and  with  whom  they  were  accustomed  to  deal. 
As  it  happened,  the  trader  was  almost  entirely 
destitute  of  Indian  goods ;  his  spring  supply 
not  having  yet  reached  him.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville had  secret  intelligence  that  supplies  were 
on  their  waj',  and  would  soon  arrive  ;  he 
hoped,  however,  by  a  prompt  move,  to  antici- 
pate their  arrival,  and  secure  the  market  to 
himself.  Throwing  himself,  therefore,  among 
the  Indians,  he  opened  his  packs  ot  merchan- 
dise, and  displayed  the  most  tempting  wares  ; 
bright  cloths,  and  scarlet  blankets,  and  glitter- 
ing ornaments,  and  everytlnng  gay  and  glorious 

VOL.  I.— 14 


•C' 


I 


•<li; 


{: 


ill 


''  'i  ') 


■  7 '  I 


^ 


fi 


/^I>. 


^rr*ti 


i^'/«^ 


V  *     «*^,^--    '*-,>-  :i'--     •*.^- 


2IO 


JBonneviUc'd  BDventures 


A'; 


;*{■■ 


I  i:[!( 


> 


ill  the  eves  of  warrior  or  squaw  ;  all,  however, 
was  in  vain.  The  Hudson's  Bay  trader  was  a 
perfect  master  of  his  business,  thoroughly  ac- 
quainted with  the  Indians  he  had  to  deal  with, 
and  held  such  control  over  them,  that  none 
dared  to  act  openly  in  opposition  to  his  wishes  : 
nay,  more — he  came  nigh  turning  the  tables 
upon  the  captain,  and  shaking  the  allegiance 
of  some  of  his  free  trappers,  by  distributing 
liquors  among  them.  The  latter,  therefore, 
was  glad  to  give  up  a  competition,  where  the 
war  was  likely  to  be  carried  into  his  own 
camp. 

In  fact,  the  traders  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  have  advantages  over  all  competitors 
in  the  trade  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
That  huge  monopoly  centres  within  itself  not 
merely  its  own  hereditar\'  and  long-established 
power  and  influence ;  but  also  those  of  its 
ancient  rival,  but  now  integral  part,  the  famous 
Northwest  Company.  It  has  tluis  its  races  of 
traders,  trappers,  hunters,  and  7'ovat^i'urs,  born 
ai  •'  brought  up  in  its  service,  and  inheriting 
from  preceding  generations  a  knowledge  and 
aptitude  in  everytliing  connected  with  Indian 
life,  and  Indian  traffic.  Jn  the  process  of  years, 
this  company  has  been  enabled  to  .spread  its 
ramifications  in  every  direction  :  its  .sy.stem  of 
intercourse  is  founded  upon  a  long  and  inti- 


^,•1 


* 


i^'Vi=^-t"  %^^' 


"■"^SsttaeOr: 


A    ■'.*W   >NJ- 


^-J^. 


<.XT^ 


V 


:-iS 


'It^ 


fjuOson's  asag  Companig's  flbonopolB      an 


mate  knowledge  of  the  character  and  necessi- 
ties .if  tlie  various  triV)es  ;  and  of  all  the 
fastnesses,  defiles,  and  favorable  hunting 
grounds  of  the  country.  Their  capital,  also, 
and  the  manner  in  which  their  supplies  are 
distributed  at  various  posts  or  forwarded  by- 
regular  caravans,  keep  their  traders  well  sup- 
plied, and  enable  them  to  furnish  their  goods 
to  the  Indians  at  a  cheap  rate.  Their  men, 
too,  being  cliiefly  drawn  from  the  Canadas, 
where  they  enjoy  great  influence  and  control,  arc 
engaged  at  the  most  trifling  wages,  and  sup- 
ported at  little  cost  ;  the  provisions  which  they 
take  with  them  being  little  more  than  Indian 
corn  and  grease.  They  were  brought,  also, 
l^v  into  the  most  perfect  discipline  and  subordina- 
tion, especially  when  their  leaders  have  once 
got  them  to  their  scene  of  action  in  the  heart 
'^  T*    of  the  wilderness. 

These  circumstances  combine  to  give  the 
leaders  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  a  de- 
cided advantage  over  all  the  American  compa- 
nies that  come  within  their  range  ;  so  that  any 
close  competition  with  them  is  almost  hopeless. 

vShortly  after  Captain  Bonneville's  ineffec- 
tual attemjit  to  participate  in  the  trade  of  the 
associated  camp,  the  supplies  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  arrived  ;  and  the  resident  trader 
was  enabled  to  monopolize  the  market. 


^- 


t<ii 


\ 


I 


I     I 


M 


I      i, 


^mf 


¥> 


\  i 
I* 


*  a  « 


'^  'H 


i 


I 


'^.1 


:lSonnev(Ue'0  BOventuree 

It  was  now  the  beginning  of  July  ;  in  the 
latter  part  of  which  month,  Captain  Bonne- 
ville had  appointed  a  rendezvous  at  Horse 
Creek,  in  Green  River  Valley,  with  some  of 
the  parties  which  he  had  detached  in  the  pre- 
ceding year.  He  now  turned  his  thoughts  in 
that  direction,  and  prepared  for  the  journey. 

The  Cottonois  were  anxious  for  him  to  pro- 
ceed at  once  to  their  country  ;  which,  they  as- 
sured him,  abounded  in  beaver.  The  lands 
of  this  tribe  lie  immediately  north  of  those  of 
the  Flatheads,  and  are  open  to  the  inroads  of 
the  Blackfeet.  It  is  true,  the  latter  professed 
to  be  their  allies  :  but  they  had  been  guilty  of 
so  many  acts  of  perfidy,  that  the  Cottonois 
had,  latterly,  renounced  their  hollow  friend- 
ship, and  attached  themselves  to  the  P'latheads 
and  Nez  Perces.  These  the)-  had  accompa- 
nied in  their  migrations,  rather  than  remain 
alone  at  home,  exposed  to  the  outrages  of  the 
Blackfeet.  They  were  now  apprehensive  that 
these  marauders  would  range  their  country 
during  their  absence,  and  destroy  the  beaver ; 
.\-A  this  was  their  reason  for  urging  Captain  Bonne- 
Vy/  ville  to  make  it  his  autumnal  hunting  ground. 
The  latter,  however,  was  not  to  be  tempted  ; 
his  engagements  required  his  presence  at  the 
rendezvous  in  Green  River  Valley,  and  he  had 
already  formed  his  ulterior  plans. 


/ 


■w,«l 


'•M 


1. 


c 


an  inncjpcctcCt  Dlfllcultp 


Ati  unexpected  difficulty  now  arose.  The 
"O  free  trappers  suddenly  made  a  stand,  and  de- 
''^  clined  to  accompany  him.  It  was  a  long  and 
weary  journey  ;  the  route  lay  through  Pierre's 
Hole,  and  other  mountain  passes  infested  by 
the  Black  feet,  and  recently  the  scenes  of  san- 
guinary conflicts.  They  were  not  disposed  to 
inidertake  such  unnecessary  toils  and  dangers, 
when  they  had  good  and  secure  trapping 
grounds  nearer  at  hand,  on  the  head-waters 
of  the  Salmon  River. 

As  these  were  free  and  independent  fellows, 
whose  will  and  whim  were  apt  to  be  law — who 
had  the  whole  wilderness  before  them,  "  where 
to  choose,"  and  the  trader  of  a  rival  company 
at  hand,  ready  to  pay  for  their  services — it  was 
necessary  to  bend  to  their  wishes.  Captain 
Bonneville  fitted  them  cmt,  therefore,  for  the 
hunting  ground  in  question,  appointing  Mr. 
Hodgkiss  to  act  as  their  partisan,  or  leader, 
and  fixing  a  rendezvous  where  he  should  meet 
them  in  the  course  of  the  ensuing  winter.  The 
brigade  consisted  of  twenty-one  free  trappers, 
and  four  or  five  hired  men  as  camp  keepers. 
This  was  not  the  exact  arrangement  of  a  trap- 
ping party  ;  which,  when  accurately  organized, 
is  composed  of  two  tliirds  trappers,  whose  duty 
leads  them  continually  abroad  in  pursuit  of 
game  ;  and  one  third  camp-keepers,  who  cook, 


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&rv; 


%. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


2.5 

12.2 

12.0 

1.8 


U    III  1.6 


£  us 


Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WIBSTIR.N.Y.  14SS0 

(716)  B73-4S03 


p 


fe 


JBonncvillc's  BDvcntureg 


pack,  and  unpack  ;  set  up  the  tents,  take  care 
of  the  horses,  and  do  all  other  duties  usuallj' 
assigned  bj'  the  Indians  to  their  women.  This 
part  of  the  service  is  apt  to  be  fulfilled  bj'  French 
Creoles  from  Canada  and  the  valley  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi. 

In  the  meantime,  the  associated  Indians, 
having  completed  their  trade  and  received 
their  supplies,  were  all  ready  to  disperse  in 
various  directions. 

As  there  was  a  formidable  band  of  Black- 
feet  just  over  a  mountain  to  the  nortlieast.  by 
which  Hodgkiss  and  his  free  trappers  would 
have  to  pass  ;  and  as  it  was  known  that  those 
sharp-sighted  marauders  had  their  scouts  out, 
watching  every  movement  of  the  encampments, 
so  as  to  cut  off  stragglers  or  weak  detachments, 
Captain  Bomieville  prevailed  upon  the  Nez 
Perces  to  accompany  Hodgkiss  and  his  party, 
until  they  should  be  beyond  the  range  of  the 
enemy. 

Tl'.e  Cottonois  and  the  Pends  Oreilles  deter- 
mined to  move  together  at  the  same  time,  and 
to  pass  close  under  the  mountain  infested  by 
the  Blackfeet ;  while  Captain  Bomieville,  with 
his  party,  was  to  stri.if  in  an  opposite  direc- 
tion to  the  southeast,  bending  his  course  for 
Pierre's  Hole,  on  his  way  to  Green  River. 

Accordingly,    on   the   6th   of   July,    all  the 


't) 


&. 


6- 


<-j 


K 


W 


U^^'^: 


Dispersion  of  tbe  Camps 


\jl  camps  were  raised  at  the  same  moment,  each 
party  taking  its  separate  route.  The  scene 
was  wild  and  picturesque  ;  the  long  line  of 
traders,  trappers,  and  Indians,  with  their  rugged 
and  fantastic  dresses  and  accoutrements  ;  their 
varied  weapons,  their  iiniumerable  horses, 
some  under  the  saddle,  some  burdened  with 
packages,  others  following  in  droves  ;  all 
stretching  in  lengthening  cavalcades  across 
the  vast  landscape,  and  making  for  different 
J^^^i^^l      points  of  the  plains  and  mountains. 


■-«=?a^ 


""^^m-^^j^-'^ 


Ui 


i| 


5 


fit 

m 


{-     n 


,  I 


Cbapter  Hf . 

Precautions  in  Dangerous  Defiles — Trappers'  Mode 
of  Defense  on  a  Prairie — A  Mysterious  Visitor — 
Arrival  in  Green  River  Valley — Adventures  of  the 
Detachments — The  Forlorn  Partisan — His  Tale  of 
Disasters. 

AS  the  route  of  Captain  Bonneville  lay 
through  what  was  considered  the  most 
perilous  part  of  this  region  of  dangers, 
he  took  all  his  measures  with  military  skill, 
and  observed  the  strictest  circumspection. 
When  on  the  march,  a  small  scouting  party 
was  thrown  in  the  advance,  to  reconnoitre  the 
country  through  which  they  were  to  pass.  The 
encampments  were  selected  with  great  care, 
and  a  watch  was  kept  up  night  and  day.  The 
horses  were  b:  ought  in  and  picketed  at  night, 
and  at  daybreak  a  party  was  sent  out  to  scour 
the  neighborhood  for  half  a  mile  round,  beat- 
ing up  every  grove  and  thicket  that  could  give 
shelter  to  a  lurking  foe.  When  all  was  re- 
ported safe,   the  horses  were  cast  loose  and 

2l6 


u 


{ 

I 


s       ^ 

^ 


Ifndtan  itsoi>e  o(  Defense 


turned  out  to  graze.  Were  such  precautions 
generally  observed  by  traders  and  hunters,  we 
should  not  so  often  hear  of  parties  being  sur- 
prised by  the  Indians. 

Having  stated  the  military  arrangements  of 
the  captain,  we  may  here  mention  a  mode  of 
defense  on  the  open  prairie,  which  we  have 
heard  from  a  veteran  in  the  Indian  trade. 
When  a  party  of  trappers  is  on  a  journe)'  with 
a  convo}'  of  goods  or  peltries,  every  man  has 
three  pack-norses  under  his  care,  each  horse 
laden  with  three  packs.  Every  man  is  pro- 
vided with  a  picket  with  an  iron  head,  a  mal- 
let, and  hobbles,  or  leathern  fetters  for  the 
honses  The  trappers  proceed  across  the  prai- 
rie in  a  long  line  ;  or  sometimes  three  parallel 
lines,  sufficiently  distant  from  each  other  to 
prevent  the  packs  from  interfering.  At  an 
alarm,  when  there  is  no  covert  at  hand,  the 
line  wheels  so  as  to  bring  the  front  to  the  rear, 
and  form  a  circle.  All  then  dismount,  drive 
their  pickets  into  the  ground  in  w.  centre, 
fasten  the  horses  to  t  lem,  and  hobble  their 
forelegs,  so  that,  in  case  of  alarm,  they  cannot 
break  away.  They  then  unload  them,  and 
dispose  of  their  packs  as  breastworks  on  the 
periphery  of  the  circle,  each  man  having  nine 
packs  behind  which  to  shelter  himself.  In 
this  promptly- formed  fortress,  thev  await  the 


M 


( 


!    til 


! '  T 
( 

I! 


2l8 


JBonne-^ille'd  Bdventurca 


(^, 


^1 


i-> 


t* 


assault  of  the  eneni}',  and  are  enabled  to  set 
large  bands  of  Indians  at  defiance. 

The  first  night  of  his  march,  Captain  Bonne- 
ville encamped  upon  Henry's  Fork  ;  an  upper 
branch  of  Snake  River,  called  after  the  first 
American  trader  that  erected  a  fort  beyond  the 
mountains.  About  an  hour  after  all  hands  had 
come  to  a  halt  the  clatter  of  hoofs  was  heard, 
and  a  solitary  female,  of  the  Nez  Perce  tribe, 
came  galloping  up.  She  was  mounted  on  a 
mustang,  or  half-wild  horse,  which  she  man- 
aged by  a  long  rope  hitched  round  the  under 
jaw  by  way  of  bridle.  Dismounting,  she 
walked  silentl\'  int(>  themid.st  of  the  camp,  and 
there  seated  herself  on  the  ground,  still  hold- 
ing her  horse  by  the  long  halter. 

The  sudden  and  lonely  apparition  of  this 
woman,  and  her  calm,  yet  resolute  demeanor, 
awakened  universal  curiosity.  The  hunteis  and 
trappers  gathered  round,  and  gazed  on  her  as 
something  mysterious.  She  remained  .silent,  but 
maintained  her  air  of  calmness  and  self-pos.ses- 
sion.  Captaiti  Bonneville  approached  and  in- 
terrogated her  as  to  theo!)ject  of  her  mysterious 
visit.  Her  answer  was  brief  but  earnest — "  I 
love  the  whites — I  will  go  with  them. ' '  vShe  was 
forthwith  invited  to  a  lodge,  of  which  she 
readily  took  possession,  and  from  that  time 
forward  was  C(Misidered  one  of  the  camp. 


r° 


^ 


set    \>' 


AS 


:7 


(ler     c-i^s  "^ 


and 
ras 


01 


Brrival  at  ©rcen  "River 


Inconsequence,  very  probably,  of  the  military 
precautions  of  Captain  Bonneville,  he  conducted 
his  party  in  safety  through  this  hazardous 
region.  No  accident  of  a  disastrous  kind  oc- 
curred, excepting  the  loss  of  a  horse,  which,  in 
passing  along  the  jjiddy  edge  of  the  precipice, 
called  the  Cornice,  a  dangerous  pass  between 
Jackson's  and  Pierre's  Hole,  fell  over  the  brink 
and  was  dashed  to  pieces. 

On  the  13th  of  July  (1883),  Captain  Bonne- 
ville arrived  nt  Green  River.  As  he  entered 
the  valley,  he  beheld  it  strewn  in  everj'  direc- 
tion with  the  carcasses  of  buffaloes.  It  was 
evident  that  Indians  had  recently  been  there, 
and  in  great  numbers.  Alarmed  at  th;.,  sight, 
he  came  to  a  halt,  and  .soon  as  it  was  dark, 
sent  out  .spies  to  his  place  of  rendezvous  on 
Hor.se  Creek,  where  he  had  expected  to  meet 
with  his  detached  parties  of  trappers  on  the 
following  day.  Ivarly  in  the  morning,  the 
.spies  made  their  appearance  in  the  camp,  and 
with  them  came  three  trappers  of  one  of  his 
bantls,  from  the  rendezvous,  who  told  him  his 
people  were  all  there  expecting  him.  As  to 
the  slaughter  among  the  buffaloes,  it  had  been 
made  by  a  friendly  band  of  Shoshonies,  who 
had  fallen  in  with  one  of  his  trapping  parties, 
and  acc'jmjjanied  them  to  the  rendezvous. 
Having   imparted  this  intelligence,  the  three 


i^ 


(i-i 


( 


I!!? 


i^u 


I 


'   I 


.1 


( f 


itil 


^1 


>" 


JBonneville'B  BOventuren 


worthies  from  the  rendezvous  broached  a  small 
keg  of  "alcohol,"  which  they  had  brought 
with  them,  to  enliven  this  merry  meeting.  The 
liquor  went  briskly  round  ;  all  absent  friends 
were  toasted,  and  the  party  moved  forward  to 
the  rendezvous  in  high  spirits. 

The  meeting  of  associated  bands,  who  have 
been  separated  from  each  other  on  these  hazard- 
ous enterprises,  is  always  interesting  ;  each 
having  its  tale  of  perils  and  adventures  to  re- 
late. Such  was  the  case  with  the  various  de- 
tachments of  Captain  Boimeville's  company, 
thus  brought  together  on  Horse  Creek.  Here 
was  the  detachment  of  fifty  men  which  he  had 
sent  from  Salmon  River,  in  the  preceding  month 
of  November,  to  winter  on  Snake  River.  They 
had  met  with  many  crosses  and  losses  in  the 
course  of  their  spring  hunt,  not  so  much  from 
the  Indians  as  from  white  men.  They  had 
come  in  competition  with  rival  trapping  parties, 
particularly  one  belonging  to  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tain Fur  Company  ;  and  they  hod  long  stories 
to  relate  of  their  manoeuvres  to  forestall  or  dis- 
tress each  other.  In  fact,  in  these  virulent  and 
sordid  competitions,  the  trappers  of  each  party 
were  more  intent  upon  injuring  their  rivals, 
tlian  benefiting  themselves ;  breaking  each 
other's  traps,  trampling  and  tearing  to  pieces 
the  beaver  lodges,  and   doing  everything   in 


V 


^5J 


f/-/ 


Haled  of  WienBtete 


221 


their  power  to  mar  the  success  of  the  hunt. 
We  forbear  to  detail  these  pitiful  contentions. 

The  most  lamentable  tale  of  disasters,  how- 
ever, that  Captain  Bonneville  had  to  hear,  was 
from  a  partisan,  whom  he  had  detached  in 
the  preceding  year,  with  twenty  men,  to  hun^ 
through  the  outskirts  of  tlie  Crow  country  ,  anu 
on  the  tributary  streams  of  the  Yellowstone  ; 
whence  he  was  to  proceed  and  join  him  in  his 
winter  quarters  on  Salmon  River.  This  parti- 
san appeared  at  the  rendezvous  without  his 
party,  and  a  sorrowful  tale  of  disaster  had  he 
to  relate.  In  hunting  the  Crow  country,  he 
fell  in  with  a  village  of  that  tribe  ;  notorious 
rogues,  jockeys,  and  horse  stealers,  and  errant 
scamperers  of  the  mountains.  These  decoyed 
nio.st  of  his  aen  to  desert,  and  carry  oif  horses, 
traps,  and  .ccoutrements.  When  he  attempted 
to  retake  the  deserters,  the  Crow  warriors  ruf- 
fled up  to  him  and  declared  the  deserters  were 
their  good  friends,  had  determined  to  remain, 
among  them,  and  should  not  be  molested.  The 
poor  partisan,  therefore,  was  fain  to  leave  his 
vagabonds  among  'hese  birds  of  t'.ieir  own 
feather,  and,  being  t  .o  weak  in  numbers  to  at- 
tempt the  dangerous  }  ass  across  the  mountains 
to  meet  Captain  Bonneville  on  Salmon  River, 
he  made,  with  the  few  that  remained  faithful 
to  him,  for  the  nei;rliborhood  of  T'  Uock's  Fort, 


V- 


i  ' 


!:'■ 


i|!|, 


■i'iii 


>\  » 


m  It 


P 


■^_:- 


222 


! 


m 


/■( 


A'^ 


JSonneville'd  BDventurea 


,^. 


on  the  Yellowstone,  under  the  protection  of 
which  he  went  into  winter  quarters. 

He  soon  found  out  that  the  neighborhood  of 
the  fort  was  nearly  as  bad  as  the  neighborhood 
of  the  Crows.  His  men  were  continually  steal- 
ing away  thither,  with  whatever  beaver  .skins 
they  could  secrete  or  lay  their  hands  on.  These 
they  would  exchange  with  the  hangens-on  of 
the  fort  for  whisky,  and  then  revel  in  drunk- 
enness and  debauchery. 

The  unlucky  partisan  made  another  move. 
Associating  with  his  party  a  few  free  trappers, 
whom  he  met  with  in  this  neighborhood,  he 
started  off  early  in  the  spring  to  trap  on  the 
head-waters  of  Powder  River.  In  the  course 
of  the  journey,  his  horses  were  .so  much  jaded 
in  traversing  a  steep  mountain,  that  he  was 
induced  to  turn  them  loose  to  graze  during  the 
night.  The  place  was  lonely  ;  th.e  path  was 
rugged  ;  there  was  not  the  sign  of  an  Indian  in 
the  neighborhood  ;  not  a  blade  of  grass  that 
had  been  turned  by  a  footstep.  IJut  who  can 
calculate  on  security  in  the  midst  of  an  Itidian 
country,  where  the  foe  lurks  in  silence  and 
secrecy,  and  .seems  to  come  and  go  on  the  wings 
of  the  wind  ?  The  horses  had  scarce  been 
turned  loose,  when  a  couple  of  Arickara  (or 
Rickaree)  warriors  entered  the  camp.  They 
effected  a  frank  and  friendly  demeanor  ;    but 


ill!!; 


Km 


^ 


Bricitara  Spied  in  Camp 


their  appearance  and  movements  awakened  the 
suspicions  of  some  of  the  veteran  trapjiers, 
well  versed  in  Indian  wiles.  Convinced  that 
they  were  spies  sent  on  some  sinister  errand, 
they  took  them  into  custody,  and  set  to  work 
to  drive  in  the  horses.  It  was  too  late — the 
horses  had  already  gone.  In  fact,  a  war  party 
of  Arickaras  had  been  hovering  on  their  trail 
for  several  days,  watching  with  the  patience 
and  perseverance  of  Indians,  for  some  moment 
of  negligence  and  fancied  security,  to  make  a 
successful  swoop.  The  two  spies  had  evidently 
been  sent  into  the  camp  to  create  a  diversion, 
while  their  confederates  carried  off  the  spoil. 

The  unlucky  partisan,  thus  robbed  of  his 
horses,  turned  furiously  on  his  prisoners,  or- 
dered them  to  be  bound  hand  and  foot,  and 
swore  to  put  them  to  death  unless  his  property 
were  restored.  The  robbers,  who  soon  found 
that  their  spies  were  in  captivity,  now  made 
their  appearance  on  horseback,  and  held  a 
parley.  The  sight  of  them,  mounted  on  the 
very  horses  they  had  stolen,  set  the  blood  of 
the  mountaineers  in  a  ferment  ;  but  it  was 
useless  to  attack  them,  as  they  would  have  but 
to  turn  their  steeds  and  scamper  out  of  the 
reach  of  pedestrians.  A  negotiation  was  now 
attempted.  The  Arickaras  offered  what  they 
considered  fair  terms  ;  to  barter  one  horse,  or 


h:ii<^ 


\/" 


IV 


m 


^ 


even  two  horses,  for  a  prisoner.  The  moun- 
taineers spurned  at  their  offer,  and  declared 
thai,  unless  all  the  horses  were  relinquished, 
the  prisoners  should  be  burnt  to  death.  To 
give  force  to  their  threats,  a  pyre  of  logs  and 
fagots  were  heaped  up  and  kindled  into  a 
blaze. 

The  parley  continued  ;  the  Arickaras  released 
one  horse  and  then  another,  in  earnest  of  their 
proposition ;  finding,  however,  that  nothing 
short  of  the  relinquishment  of  all  their  spoils 
would  purchase  the  lives  of  the  captives,  they 
abandoned  them  to  their  fate,  moving  off  with 
many  parting  words  and  lamentable  bowlings. 
The  prisoners  seeing  them  depart,  and  know- 
ing the  horrible  fate  that  awaited  them,  made 
a  desperate  effort  to  escape.  They  partially 
succeeded,  but  were  severely  wounded  and  re- 
taken ;  then  dragged  to  the  blazing  pyre,  and 
burnt  to  death  in  the  sight  of  their  retreating 
comrades. 

Such  are  the  savage  cruelties  that  white 
men  learn  to  practise,  who  mingle  in  savage 
life  :  and  -uch  are  the  acts  that  lead  to  terrible 
recrimination  on  the  part  of  the  Indians.  Should 
we  hear  of  any  atrocities  committed  by  the 
Arickaras  upon  captive  white  men,  let  this 
signal  and  recent  provocation  be  borne  in  mind. 
Individual  cases  of  the  kind  dwell  in  the  recol- 


UV 


ry^-:->-N 


Zbc  UnluchiE;  partisan 


lections  of  whole  tribes  ;  and  it  is  a  point  of 
honor  and  conscience  to  revenge  them. 

The  loss  of  his  horses  completed  the  ruin  of 
the  unlucky  partisan.  It  was  out  of  his  power 
to  prosecute  his  hunting,  or  to  maintain  his 
party  ;  the  only  thought  now  was  how  to  get 
back  to  civilized  life.  At  the  first  watercour.se, 
his  men  built  canoes,  and  committed  them- 
selves to  the  stream.  Some  engaged  themselves 
at  various  trading  establishments  at  which  they 
touched,  others  got  back  to  the  settlements. 
As  to  the  partisan,  he  found  an  opportunity  to 
make  his  way  to  the  rendezvous  at  Green  River 
Valley  ;  whicli  he  reached  in  time  to  render  to 
Captain  Botnieville  this  forlorn  account  of  his 
misadventures. 

VOL.  I. — 15 


V^. 


^'1 


h 


f 


/^i 


m 


fer~xi 


*%i^'>D 


!  '1 

11'' 
"I, 

i  ! 


:ii 


lyi 


'''-^^^ 


%^ 


>^J:^.-^^^'^l 


Cbapter  J^. 


M. 


d; 


Gathoring  in  Green  River  Valley — V'isitings  and  Feast- 
ings  of  Leaders — Rough  Wassailing  among  the  Trap- 
pers— Wild  Blades  of  the  Mountains— Indian  Belles 
— Potency  of  Bright  Beads  and  Red  Blankets — 
Arrival  of  Supplies — Revelry  and  Extravagance — 
Mad  Wolves — The  Lost  Indian. 


I' '!!''( 


■:'( 


THK  Green  River  Valley  was  at  this  time 
the  sceiie  of  one  of  those  general  gath- 
"  "^  erings  Oi'  traders,  trappers,  and  Indians, 

that  we  have  already  mentioned.  The  three 
rival  companies,  which,  for  a  year  past  had 
been  endeavorij.g  to  out-trade,  out-trap,  and 
out-wit  each  other,  were  here  encamped  in 
close  proximity,  awaiting  their  annual  sup- 
plies. About  four  miles  from  the  rendezvous 
of  Captain  Bonneville  was  that  of  the  Ameiican 
Fur  Company,  hard  by  which,  was  that  also 
of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company. 

After  the  eager  rivalry  and  almost  hostility 
di.splayed  by  these  companies  in  their  late  cam- 


y. 


''!] 


'm 


jp'' 


Oatbcrind  in  (3rcen  'River  Vallee        227 


paigns,  it  might  be  expected  that,  when  thus 
brought  in  juxtaposition,  they  would  hold 
themselves  warily  and  sternly  aloof  from  each 
other,  and  should  they  happen  to  come  in  con- 
tact, brawl  and  bloodshed  would  ensue. 

No  such  thing  !  Never  did  rival  lawyers, 
after  a  wrangle  at  the  bar,  meet  with  more 
social  good  humor  at  a  circuit  dinner.  The 
hunting  season  over,  all  past  tricks  and  ma- 
noeuvres are  forgotten,  all  feuds  and  bickerings 
buried  in  oblivion.  From  the  middle  of  June 
to  the  middle  of  September,  all  trapping  is 
suspended  ;  for  the  beavers  are  then  shedding 
their  furs,  and  their  skins  are  of  little  value. 
This,  then,  is  the  trapper's  holiday,  vvhen  he 
is  all  for  fun  and  frolic,  and  ready  for  a  satur- 
nalia among  the  moinitains. 

At  the  present  season,  too,  all  parties  were 
in  good  humor.  The  \ear  had  been  productive. 
Competition,  by  threatening  to  lessen  their 
profits,  had  quickened  their  wits,  roused  their 
energies,  and  made  them  turn  every  favorable 
chance  to  the  best  advantage  ;  so  that,  on  as- 
sembling at  their  respective  places  of  rendez- 
vous, each  company  four.d  itself  in  possession 
of  a  rich  stock  of  j^eltries. 

The  leaders  of  the  different  companies,  there- 
fore, mingled  on  terms  of  perfect  good  fellow- 
ship ;  interchanging  visits,  and  regaling  each 


tl^^ 


s 


/; 


(, 


't! 


I 


■,:i  '"'? 


f^~ 


\' 


i 


I! 


^!f' 


'^i 


Ml 


22S 


:i6onneviUe'6  BOventurcB 


other  in  the  best  style  their  respective  camps 
afforded.  But  the  rich  treat  for  the  worthy 
captain  was  to  see  the  "  chivalry  "  of  the  vari- 
ous encampments,  engaged  in  contests  of  skill 
at  running,  jumping,  wrestling,  shooting  with 
the  rifle,  and  running  horses.  And  then  their 
rough  hunters'  feastings  and  carousals.  They 
drank  together,  they  sang,  they  laughed,  they 
whooped  ;  they  tried  to  outbrag  and  outlie 
each  other  in  stories  of  their  adventures  and 
achievements.  Here  the  free  trappers  were  in 
all  their  glory  ;  they  considered  themselves  the 
"  cocks  of  the  walk,"  and  always  carried  the 
highest  crests.  Now  and  then  familiarity  was 
pushed  too  far,  and  would  effervesce  into  a 
brawl,  and  a  "  rough  and  tumble  "  fight ;  but 
it  all  elided  in  cordial  reconciliation  and  maud- 
li!i  endearment. 

The  presence  of  the  vShoshonie  tribe  contri- 
buted occasionally  to  cause  temporary  jealousies 
and  feuds.  The  Shoslionie  beauties  became 
objects  of  rivalry  among  some  of  the  amorous 
mountaineers.  Happy  was  the  trapper  who 
could  muster  up  a  red  blanket,  a  string  of  gay 
beads,  or  a  paper  of  precious  vermilion,  with 
which  to  win  the  smiles  of  a  Shoslionie  fair 
one. 

The  caravans  of  supplies  arrived  at  the  valley 
just  at  this  |>eriod  of  gallantry  and  good  fellow- 


^m^^m 


MT^^ 


A~->^ 


■^ 


] 


"Kevelrs  and  Sstravadancc 


229 


■■^■ies: 


^■; 


ship.  Now  commenced  a  scene  of  eager  com- 
petition and  wild  prodigality  at  the  different 
encampments.  Bales  were  hastily  ripped  open, 
and  their  motlej'  contents  poured  forth.  A 
mania  for  purchasing  spread  itself  throughout 
the  several  bands — munitions  for  war,  for 
hunting,  for  gallantry,  were  .seized  upon  with 
equal  avidity — rifles,  hunting  knives,  traps, 
scarlet  cloth,  red  blankets,  gairish  beads,  and 
glittering  trinkets,  were  bought  at  any  price, 
and  .scores  run  up  without  any  thought  how 
they  were  ever  to  be  rubbed  off.  The  free 
trappers,  especially,  were  extravagant  in  their 
purchases.  For  a  free  mountaineer  to  pause 
at  a  paltry  consideration  of  dollars  and  cents, 
in  tlie  attaitnnent  of  any  oliject  that  might 
strike  his  fancy,  would  stamp  him  with  the 
mark  of  the  beast  in  the  estimation  of  his 
comrades.  For  a  trader  to  refuse  one  of  these 
free  and  flourishing  blades  a  credit,  whatever 
unpaid  scores  might  .stare  him  in  the  face, 
would  be  a  flagrant  affront  .scarcely  to  be 
forgiven. 

Now  succeeded  another  outbreak  of  revelry 
and  extravagance.  The  trappers  were  newly 
fitted  out  and  arrayed,  and  dashed  about  with 
their  horses  caparisoned  in  Indian  style.  The 
ShoslKmie  beauties  also  flaunted  about  in  all 
the  colors  of  the  rainbow.     Every  freak  of 


Ln 


J'-^M 


M)' 


u. 


{ ' 


), 


V 


!l     '     i    i 


\\J) 


.y 


.<«•„ 


-/ 


230 


JBonneville'd  Bdventutes 


prodigality  was  indulged  to  its  full  extent,  and 
in  a  little  while  most  of  the  trappers,  having 
squandered  away  all  their  wages,  and  perhaps 
run  knee-deep  in  debt,  were  ready  for  another 
hard  campaign  in  the  wilderness. 

During  this  season  of  folly  and  frolic,  there 
was  an  alarm  of  mad  wolves  in  the  two  lower 
camps.  One  or  more  of  these  animals  entered 
the  camps  three  nights  successively,  and  bit 
several  of  the  people. 

Captain  Bonneville  relates  the  case  of  an 
Indian,  who  was  a  universal  favorite  in  the 
lower  camp.  He  had  been  bitten  l)y  one  of 
ihese  animals.  Being  out  with  a  parl\  shortly 
afterwards,  he  grew  silent  and  gloomy,  and 
lagged  behind  the  rest  as  if  he  wished  to  leave 
them.  They  halted  and  urged  him 'to  move 
faster,  but  he  entreated  them  not  to  approach 
him,  and,  leaping  from  his  horse,  began  to  roll 
frantically  on  the  earth,  gnashing  his  teeth  and 
foaming  at  the  mouth.  Still  he  retained  his 
senses,  and  warned  his  companions  not  to 
come  near  him,  as  he  should  not  be  able  to 
restrain  himself  from  biting  them.  They  hur- 
ried off  to  obtain  relief;  but  on  their  return 
he  was  nowhere  to  be  found.  His  horse  and 
accoutrements  remained  upon  the  spot.  Three 
or  four  days  afterwards  a  solitary  Indian,  be- 
lieved to  be  the  same,  was  observed  crossing  a 


I; 


v^  M 


\ 


f\ 


tJ 


.>: 


!'f 


■Vii' 


"fcB&ropbobia 


valley,  and  pursued  ;  but  he  darted  away  into 
the  fastnesses  of  the  mountains,  and  was  seen 
no  more. 

Another  instance  we  have  from  a  different 
person  who  was  present  in  the  encampment. 
One  of  the  men  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur 
Company  had  been  bitten.  He  set  out  shortly 
afterwards,  in  company  with  two  white  men, 
on  his  return  to  the  settlements.  In  the  course 
of  a  few  days  he  showed  symptoms  of  hydro- 
phobia, and  became  raving  towards  night.  At 
length,  breaking  away  from  his  companions, 
he  rushed  into  a  thicket  of  willows,  where 
they  left  him  to  his  fate  ! 


Jfci. 


.i^-^ 


!r 


'}     u 


j    I 


I 


II 


n 


t 


'.•If 


t     ! 


,f 


Schemes  of  Captain  Bonneville — The  Great  Salt  Lake 
— Expedition  to  Explore  it  —  Preparations  for  a 
Journey  to  the  Bighorn. 

CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE  now  found 
himself  at  the  head  of  a  hard}',  well- 
seasoned  and  well-appointed  company 
of  trappers,  all  benefited  by  at  least  one  year's 
experience  among  the  mountains,  and  capable 
of  protecting  themselves  from  Indian  wiles 
and  stratagems,  and  of  providing  for  their  sub- 
sistence wherever  game  was  to  he  foinul.  lie 
had,  also,  an  excellent  troop  of  horses,  in  prime 
condition,  and  fi«  for  hard  service.  lie  deter- 
mined, therefore,  to  strike  out  into  some  of  the 
bolder  parts  of  his  scheme.  One  of  tlicse  was 
to  carry  his  exjicditions  into  .some  of  the  un- 
known tracts  of  the  Far  West,  beyond  what  is 
generally  termed  the  buffalo  range.  This  would 
have  .something  of  the  merit  and  charm  of 
discover) ,  so  dear  to  every  brave  and  adven- 

232 


:mf2j^ 


m 


"■^KKSiS:- 


^^*> 


g^'?^S^ 


turous  spirit.  Another  favorite  project  was  to 
establish  a  trading  post  on  tlie  lower  part  of 
the  Columbia  River,  near  the  Multnon-  ah 
Valley,  and  to  endeavor  to  retrieve  for  his 
country  some  of  the  lost  trade  of  Astoria. 

The  first  of  the  above-mentioned  views  was, 
at  present,  uppermost  in  his  mind — the  explor- 
ing of  unknown  regions.  Among  the  grand 
features  of  the  wilderness  about  which  he  was 
roaming,  one  had  made  a  vivid  impression  on 
his  mind,  and  been  clothed  bj'  his  imagination 
with  vague  and  ideal  charms.  This  is  a  great 
lake  of  salt  water,  laving  the  feet  of  the  moun- 
tains, but  extending  far  to  the  west-southwest, 
into  one  of  those  vast  and  elevated  plateaus  of 
land,  which  range  high  ab<He  the  level  of  the 
Pacific. 

Captain  Bonneville  gives  a  .striking  account 
of  the  lake  when  seen  from  the  land.  As  you 
ascend  the  mountain  .ilwut  its  shores,  .says  he, 
you  behold  this  immense  body  of  water  spread- 
ing itself  before  you,  and  .stretching  farther  and 
farther,  in  one  wide  and  far-reaching  expanse, 
until  the  eye,  wearied  with  continued  and 
.strained  attention,  rests  in  the  blue  dimness 
of  distance,  upon  lofty  ranges  of  mountains, 
confidently  a.s.serted  to  rise  from  the  bosom  of 
the  waters.  Nearer  to  you,  the  smooth  and 
unruffled  surface  is  studded  with  little  i.slands, 


cf% 


.,.  yja 


.jl  I 


i'    1 . 


: 


!*■ 


i 


-.i 


M  n 


i'  I 


1^1, 


/ 


^'Ji 


t* 


^K 


i^ 


234 


JBoniievtlle's  Bdventuree 


where  the  mountain  sheep  roam  in  considerable 
numbers.  What  extent  of  lowland  may  be  en- 
compassed by  the  high  peaks  beyond,  must 
remain  for  the  present  matter  of  mere  conjec- 
ture ;  though  from  the  form  of  the  summits, 
and  the  breaks  which  may  be  discovered 
among  them,  there  can  be  little  doubt  that 
they  are  the  sources  of  streams  calculated  to 
water  large  tracts,  which  are  probably  con- 
cealed from  view  by  the  rotundity  of  the  lake's 
surface.  At  some  future  day,  in  all  probability, 
the  rich  harvest  of  beaver  fur  which  may  be 
reasonably  anticipated  in  such  a  spot,  will 
tempt  adventurers  to  reduce  all  this  doubtful  re- 
gion to  the  palpable  certainty  of  a  beaten  track. 
At  present,  however,  destitute  of  the  means 
of  making  boats,  the  trapper  stands  upon  the 
shore,  and  gazes  upon  a  promised  land  which 
his  feet  are  never  to  tread. 

Such  is  the  somewhat  fanciful  view  which 
Captain  Bonneville  gives  of  this  great  body  of 
water.  He  has  evidently  taken  part  of  his 
ideas  concerning  it  from  the  representations 
of  others,  who  have  somewhat  exaggerated  its 
features.  It  is  reported  to  be  about  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles  long,  and  fifty  miles  broad. 
The  ranges  of  mountain  peaks  which  Captain 
Bonneville  speaks  of,  as  rising  from  its  bosom, 
are  probably  the  summits  of  mountains  beyond 


;^M# 


Cb<;  (Stcat  Salt  lake 


235 


it,  which  may  be  visible  at  a  vast  distance, 
when  viewed  from  an  eminence,  in  the  trans- 
parent atmosphere  of  these  lofty  regions.  Sev- 
eral large  islands  certainly  exist  in  the  lake  ; 
one  of  which  is  said  to  be  mountainous,  but 
not  by  any  means  to  the  extent  required  to 
farnish  the  series  of  peaks  above  mentionc  i 

Captain  Sublette,  in  one  of  his  early  expedi- 
tions across  the  mountains,  is  said  to  have 
sent  four  men  in  a  skin  canoe  to  explore  the 
lake,  who  professed  to  have  navigated  all 
round  it ;  but  to  have  suffered  excessively  from 
thirst,  the  water  of  the  lake  being  extremely 
salt,  and  there  being  no  fresh  streams  running 
into  it. 

Captai::  Bonneville  doubts  this  report,  or 
that  the  mei;  accomplished  the  circumnaviga- 
tion, because,  he  says,  the  lake  receives  several 
large  streams  from  the  mountains  which  bound 
it  to  the  east.  In  the  spring,  when  the  streams 
are  swollen  by  rain  and  by  the  melting  of  the 
snows,  the  lake  rises  several  feet  aL,~,<;  its 
ordinary  level ;  during  the  summer,  it  grad- 
ually subsides  again,  leaving  a  sparkling  zone 
of  the  finest  salt  upon  its  shores. 

The  elevation  of  the  vast  plateau  on  which 
this  lake  is  situated,  is  estimated  by  Captain 
Bonneville  at  rne  and  three  fourths  of  a  mile 
above  the  leveL^f  the  ocean.    /The  admirable 


CL^IUW^' 


iw 


Nw'-^c?'''-^:^ 


I 


\'l 


*fJ 


!  '>VI 


¥ 


i\jy 


/fffT  I  -  ..»■ 


tf    I' 


1    , 

^ 

1 

i 

1 

■  • 

tl 

I    'HH 


V 


Cl 


purity  and  transparency  of  the  atmosphere  in 
this  region,  allowing  objects  to  be  seen,  and 
the  report  of  fire-arms  to  be  heard,  at  an  aston- 
ishing distance  ;  and  its  extreme  dryness, 
causing  the  wheels  of  wagons  to  fall  in  pieces, 
as  instanced  in  former  passages  of  this  work, 
are  proofs  of  the  great  altitude  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  plains.  That  a  body  of  salt  water 
•should  exist  at  such  a  height,  is  cited  as  a 
singular  phenomenon  by  Captain  Bonneville, 
though  the  salt  lake  of  Mexico  is  not  much 
inferior  in  elevation.* 

To  have  this  lake  properly  explored,  and  all 
its  secrets  revealed,  was  the  grand  scheme  of 
the  captain  for  the  present  year  ;  and  while  it 
was  one  in  which  his  imagination  evidently 
took  a  leading  part,  he  believed  it  would  be 
attended  with  great  profit,  from  the  numerous 
beaver  streams  with  which  the  lake  mu.st  be 
fringed. 

This  momentous  undertaking  he  confided  to 
his  lieutenant,  Mr.  Walker,  in  whose  experi- 
ence and  ability  he  had  great  confidence.     He 

*  The  lake  of  Tezcuco,  which  surrounds  the  city  of 
Mexico,  the  largest  and  lowest  of  the  five  lakes  on  the 
Mexican  plateau,  and  one  of  the  most  imprej^nated 
with  saline  particles,  is  seven  thousand  four  hundred 
and  sixty-eight  feet,  or  nearly  one  mile  and  a  half 
above  the  level  of  the  sea. 


V 


instructed  him  to  keep  along  the  shores  of 
the  lake,  and  trap  in  all  the  streams  on  his 
route  ;  also  to  keep  a  journal,  and  minutely 
to  record  the  events  of  his  journey,  and  every- 
thing curious  or  interesting,  making  maps  or 
charts  of  his  route,  and  of  the  surrounding 
country. 

No  pains  nor  expense  were  spared  in  fitting 
out  the  party  of  forty  men,  which  he  was  to 
command.  They  had  complete  supplies  for  a 
year,  and  were  to  meet  Captain  Bonneville  in 
the  ensuing  summer,  in  the  valley  of  Bear 
River,  the  largest  tributary  of  the  Salt  Lake, 
which  was  to  be  his  point  of  general  rendez- 
vous. 

The  next  care  of  Captain  Bonneville,  was  to 
arrange  for  the  safe  transportation  of  the  pel- 
tries which  he  had  collected,  to  the  Atlantic 
Slates.  Mr.  Robert  Campbell,  the  partner  of 
Sublette,  was  at  this  time  in  the  rendezvous 
of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company,  having 
brought  up  their  supplies.  He  was  about  to 
set  off  on  his  return,  with  the  peltries  collected 
during  the  year,  and  intended  to  proceed 
through  the  Crow  country,  to  the  head  of 
navigation  on  the  Bighorn  River,  and  to  de- 
scend in  boats  down  that  river,  the  Missouri, 
and  the  Yellowstone,  to  >St.  Louis. 

Captain  Bonneville  determined  to  forward 


%^ 


(Ty 


^>^^ 


i 


\ 


!l';tl| 


;h 


Pi 


II' 


II 


»   ■ 


u 


''i.  jl 


ptT'-s^f ,4''.  jtrfxi^', 


338 


Xotmevillc'B  Bdventuree 


■V'"' 

TS 


\ 


his  peltries  by  the  same  route,  under  the  es-     \"      ' 
pecial  care  of  Mr.   Cerre.     By  way  of  escort, 
he  would  accompany  Cerr6  to  the  point  of  em- 
barkation, and  then  make  an  autumnal  hunt 
in  the  Crow  country 


1 


^^.  ^fi 


'0 


i: 


Cbaptec  mi. 

The  Crow  Countrv — A  Crow  Paradise — Habits  of  the 
Crows — Anecdotes  of  Rose,  the  Renegade  White 
Man — His  Fights  with  the  Blackfeet — His  Eleva- 
tion— His  Death — Arapooish,  the  Crow  Chief— His 
Eagle— Adventure  of  Robert  Campbell — Honor 
among  Crows. 

BEFORE  we  accompany  Captain  Bonne- 
ville into  the  Crow  country,  we  will 
impart  a  few  facts  about  this  wild  re- 
gion, and  the  wild  people  who  inhabit  it.  We 
are  not  aware  of  the  precise  boundaries,  if 
there  are  any,  of  the  country  claimed  by  the 
Crows  ;  it  appears  to  extend  from  the  Black 
Hills  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  including  a 
part  of  their  lofty  ranges,  and  embracing  many 
of  the  plains  and  valleys  watered  by  the  Wind 
River,  the  Yellowstone,  the  Powder  River,  the 
Little  Missouri,  and  the  Nebraska.  The  coun- 
try varies  in  soil  and  climate  ;  there  are  vast 
plains  of  sand  and  clay,  studded  with  large 
red  sand-hills  ;  other  parts   are  mountainous 

239 


^r'^^ 
&' 

/!,'' 


,-57^ 


1 


I     I 


1( 

i'     1' 


■    H 


*iU    W'^'^ 


t 


I 


u 


l.il 


^ 


SBonncvUle'd  BDvcntures 


and  picturesque  ;  it  possesses  warm  springs, 
and  coal  mines,  and  aboimds  with  game. 

Hut  let  us  give  the  account  of  the  country, 
as  rendered  by  Arapooish,  a  Crow  chief,  to 
Mr.  Robert  Campbell,  of  the  Rocky  Mountain 
Fur  Company. 

"The  Crow  countrj',"  .said  he,  "is  a  good 
country.  The  Great  Spirit  has  put  it  exactly 
in  the  right  place  ;  while  you  are  in  it  3-ou 
fare  well;  whenever  yiii  go  out  of  it,  which- 
ever way  you  travel,  you  fare  worse. 

"  If  you  go  to  the  .south,  you  have  to  wander 
over  great  barren  plains ;  the  water  is  warm 
and  bad,  and  you  meet  the  fever  and  ague. 

"  To  the  north  it  is  cold  ;  the  winters  are  long 
and  bitter,  with  no  grass  ;  you  cannot  keep 
horses  there,  but  must  travel  with  dogs.  What 
is  a  country  without  horses  ? 

"  On  the  Columbia  they  are  poor  and  dirty, 
paddle  about  in  canoes,  and  eat  fish.  Their 
teeth  are  worn  out ;  they  are  always  taking 
fish-bones  out  of  their  mouths.  Fish  is  poor 
food. 

"  To  tlie  east,  they  dwell  in  villages ;  they 
live  well  ;  but  they  drink  the  muddy  water 
of  the  Missouri — that  is  bad.  A  Crow's  dog 
would  not  drink  such  water. 

"  About  the  forks  of  the  Mi.ssouri  is  a  fine 
country  ;  good  water  ;  good  grass ;  plenty  of 


! 


CT5^ 


n^ 


buffalo.  In  summer  it  is  almost  as  jjood  as 
the  Crow  country  ;  but  in  winter  it  is  cold  ; 
the  grass  is  gone ;  and  there  is  no  salt  weed 
for  the  horses. 

' '  The  Crow  country  is  exactly  in  the  right 
place.  It  has  snowy  mountains  and  sunny 
plains  ;  all  kinds  of  climates,  and  good  things 
for  every  season.  When  the  summer  heats 
scorch  the  prairies,  you  can  draw  up  under 
the  mountains,  where  the  air  is  sweet  and  cool, 
the  grass  fresh,  and  the  bright  streams  come 
tumbling  out  of  the  snow-banks.  There  you 
can  hunt  the  elk,  the  deer,  and  the  antelope, 
when  their  skins  are  fit  for  dressing  ;  there 
you  will  find  plenty  of  white  bears  and  moun- 
tain sheep. 

"  In  the  autumn,  when  your  horses  are  fat 
and  strong  from  the  mountain  pastures,  you 
can  go  down  into  the  plains  and  hunt  the  buf- 
falo, or  trap  beaver  on  the  streams.  And  when 
winter  comes  on,  you  can  take  .shelter  in  the 
woody  bottoms  along  tlie  rivers ;  there  you 
will  find  buffalo  meat  for  yourselves,  and  cot- 
ton-wood bark  for  your  horses ;  or  you  may 
winter  in  the  Wind  River  Valley,  where  there 
is  salt  weed  in  abundance. 

"The  Crow  country  is  exactly  in  the  right 
place.  Everything  good  is  to  be  found  there. 
There  is  no  country  like  the  Crow  country." 

VOL.  I.— 16 


ir 


s 


\ 


1' ' 

1    i, 


vyj' 


■,,    'm  .^-r 


\l 


5|' 


'"I 


I" 


If 


tHI 


It 


Lit 


M 


M^,.-r3^.•;/^.^•■  p 


?-^p>e^^  /*^  X!r^...M«*:V^-«^ 


242 


JBonncrUlc'8  BOvcnturcs 


Such  is  the  eulogium  on  his  country  by 
Arapooish, 

We  have  had  repeated  occasions  to  speak  of 
the  restless  and  predatory  habits  of  the  Crows. 
They  can  muster  fifteen  hundred  fighting  men  ; 
but  their  incessant  wars  with  the  Blackfeet, 
and  tlieir  vagabond,  predatory  habits,  are 
gradually  wearing  them  out. 

In  a  recent  work,  we  related  the  circumstance 
of  a  white  man  named  Rose,  an  outlaw,  and  a 
designing  vagabond,  who  acted  as  guide  and 
interpreter  to  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party,  on  their 
journey'  across  the  mountains  to  Astoria,  who 
came  near  betraying  them  into  the  hands  of 
the  Crows,  and  who  remained  among  the  tribe, 
marrying  one  of  their  women,  and  adopting 
their  C(mgenial  habits.*  A  few  anecdotes  of 
the  subsequent  fortunes  of  that  renegade  may 
not  be  uninteresting,  esj^ecially  as  they  are  con- 
nected with  the  fortunes  of  the  tril)e. 

Ro.se  was  powerful  in  frame  and  fearless  in 
spirit  ;  and  .soon  by  his  daring  deeds  took  his 
rank  among  the  first  braves  of  the  tribe.  He 
aspired  to  command,  and  knew  it  was  only  to 
be  attained  by  desperate  exploits.  He  distin- 
guished himself  in  repeated  actions  with  the 
Blackfeet.  On  one  occasion,  a  band  of  tho.se 
savages  had  fortified  themselves  within  a 
*  See  Astoria. 


t; 


a 


>-fc-'V  Xt^" 


''<«-ii*^M  "/AV  /<^->isi..i.^''  U 


'-^'4^ 


i 


>\^"i^ 
■'  •*»=^^^$' 


vs 


^ 


^ 


:^^^ 


;^:^-vi»^-'     ^2>«s!^' 


IRose  tbe  Outlaw 


243 


breastwork,  and  could  not  be  harmed.  Rose 
proposed  to  storm  the  work,  "  Who  will  take 
the  lead  ?  "  was  the  demand.  "  I  !  "  cried  he 
and  putting  himself  at  their  head,  rushed  for- 
ward. The  first  Blackfoot  that  opposed  him 
he  shot  down  with  his  rifle,  and,  snatching  up 
the  war-club  of  his  victim,  killed  four  others 
within  the  fort.  The  victory  was  complete, 
and  Rose  returned  to  the  Crow  village  covered 
with  glory,  and  bearing  five  Blackfoot  scalps, 
to  be  erected  as  a  trophy  before  his  lodge. 
From  this  time,  he  was  known  among  the 
Crows  by  tlie  namo  of  Che-ku-kaats,  or  "  the 
man  who  killed  five. ' '  He  became  chief  of  the 
village,  or  rather  band,  and  for  a  time  was  the 
popular  idol.  Ilis  popularity  soon  awakened 
envy  among  the  native  braves  ;  he  was  a  stran- 
ger, an  intruder,  a  white  man.  A  party  seceded 
from  his  conunand.  Feuds  and  civil  wars  .suc- 
ceeded that  lasted  for  two  or  three  years,  until 
Rose,  having  contrived  to  set  his  adopted 
brethren  by  the  ears,  left  them,  and  went  down 
the  Missouri  in  1S23.  Here  he  fell  in  with  one 
of  the  earliest  trapping  expeditions  sent  by 
General  Ashley  across  the  mountains.  It  was 
conducted  l)y  Smith,  Fitzpatrick,  and  Sublette. 
Rose  enlisted  with  them  as  guide  and  inter- 
preter. When  he  got  them  among  the  Crows, 
he  was  exceedingly  generous  with  their  goods  ; 


:.,  r 


<\i 


li 


(1 


I    ■  t 


1» 


il 


I  *''^ 


'i; 


'•/t 


making  presents  to  the  braves  of  his  adopted 
tribe,  as  became  a  high-minded  chief. 

This,  doubtless,  helped  to  revive  his  popu- 
larity. In  that  expedition,  Smith  and  Fitz- 
patrick  were  robbed  of  their  horses  in  Green 
River  Valley  ;  the  place  where  the  robbery  took 
place  still  bears  the  name  of  Horse  Creek. 
We  are  not  informed  whether  the  horses  were 
stolen  through  the  instigation  and  management 
of  Rose  ;  it  is  not  improbalile,  for  such  was  the 
perfid}'  he  had  intended  to  practise  on  a  former 
occasioti  towards  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  partv. 

The  last  anecdote  we  have  of  Rose  is  from 
an  Indian  trader.  When  General  Atkinson 
made  his  military  expedition  up  tlie  Missouri, 
in  1825,  to  protect  the  fur  trade,  he  held  a  con- 
ference with  the  Crow  nation,  at  which  Rose 
figured  as  Indian  dignitarj*  and  Crow  inter- 
preter. The  militar)'  were  stationed  at  some 
little  distance  from  the  .scene  of  the  "  big  talk  "  ; 
while  the  general  and  the  chiefs  were  smoking 
pipes  and  making  speeches,  the  officers,  sup- 
posing all  was  friendly,  left  the  troops,  and 
drew  near  the  scene  of  ceremonial.  Some  of 
the  more  knowing  Crows,  perceiving  this,  stole 
quietlj'  to  camp,  and,  unobserved,  contrived  to 
stop  the  touch-holes  of  the  field-pieces  with 
dirt.  Shortly  after,  a  misunderstanding  oc- 
curred in  the  conference  ;  .some  of  the  Indians, 


Q 


is 


^mm 


ti06C'6  POUCS 


fl 


knowing  the  cannon  to  be  useless,  became  in- 
solent. A  tumult  arose.  In  the  confusion, 
Colonel  O' Fallon  snapped  a  pistol  in  t!ie  face 
of  a  brave,  and  knocked  him  down  with  the 
butt  end.  The  Crows  were  all  in  a  fury.  A 
chance-medley  fight  was  on  the  point  of  taking 
place,  when  Rose,  his  natural  sympathies  as  a 
white  man  suddenly  recurring,  broke  the  stock 
of  his  fusee  over  the  head  of  a  Crow  warrior, 
and  laid  so  vigorously  about  him  with  the  bar- 
rel, that  he  soon  put  the  whole  throng  to  flight. 
Luckily,  as  no  lives  had  been  lost,  this  .sturdy 
rib-roasting  calmed  the  fury  of  the  Crows,  and 
the  tumult  ended  without  serious  consequences. 
What  was  the  ultimate  fate  of  this  vagabond 
hero  is  not  distinctly  known.  Some  report  him 
to  have  fallen  a  victim  to  disease,  brought  on 
by  his  licentious  life  ;  others  assert  that  he  was 
murdered  in  a  feud  among  the  Crows.  Aftei 
all,  his  residence  among  these  savages,  and  the 
i^  influence  he  acquired  over  them,  had,  for  a 
>V  time,  some  beneficial  effects.  He  is  .said,  not 
\flj  merely  to  have  rendered  them  more  formidable 
^w^^v,  to  the  Blackfeet,  but  to  have  opened  their  eyes 
to  the  policy  of  cultivating  the  friendship  of  the 
white  men. 

After  Ro.se' s  death,  his  policy  continued  to 
be  cultivated,  with  indifferent  success,  by 
Arapooish,  the  chief  already  mentioned,  who 


..^v 


^-  >v'^ 


t. 


i      I. 


vi^^ 


i 


h 


/ 


^•yi^ 


JtsA^uf- 


.,\-^ 


•  .-'^**lKe>^"^ ' 


246  3Sonnevillc'd  B!)venturcs 

had  been  his  great  friend,  and  whose  character 
he  had  contributed  to  develop.  Tliis  sagacious 
chief  endeavored,  on  every  occasion,  to  restrain 
the  predatory  propensities  of  his  tribe  when 
directed  against  the  white  men.  "  If  we  keep 
friends  with  them,"  said  he,  "  we  have  nothing 
to  fear  from  the  Blackfeet,  and  can  rule  the 
mountains."  Arapooish  pretended  to  be  a 
great  "medicine  man"  ;  a  rharacter  among 
the  Indians  which  is  a  compound  of  priest,  doc- 
tor, projihet,  and  conjuror,  Me  carried  about 
with  him  a  tame  eagle,  as  his  "  medicine  "  or 
familiar.  With  the  white  men,  he  acknowl- 
edged that  this  was  all  charlatanism  ;  but  said 
i  it  was  nece.ssary,  to  give  him  weight  and  influ- 
ence among  his  people. 

Mr.  Roljert  Campbell,  from  whom  we  liave 
most  of  these  facts,  in  the  course  of  one  of  liis 
trapping  expeditions,  was  quartered  in  the  vil- 
lage of  Arapooish,  and  a  guest  in  the  lodge  of 
the  chieftain.  He  had  collected  a  lar\je  (juan- 
tity  of  furs,  and,  fearful  of  being  plundered, 
deposited  Imt  a  part  in  the  lodge  of  the  chief; 
the  rest  he  buried  in  a  car//)-.  One  night,  Ara- 
pooish came  into  the  lodge  with  a  cloudy  brow, 
and  .seated  himself  for  a  time  without  saying  a 
word.  At  length,  turning  to  Campbell,  "Von 
have  more  furs  with  you,"  said  he,  "  than  you 
have  brought  into  my  lodge  ?" 


x^  -  /->'«>>,. 


..^j^?Vvs 


o. 


'^- 


N  --"y?^ 


---p 


■>: 


vv/f 


■^ 


-7 


Campbell's  BOvcnture  247    ' 


"  I  have,"  replied  Campbell, 

"Where  are  they?" 

Campbell  knew  the  uselessness  of  any  pre- 
varication with  an  Indian  ;  and  the  importance 
of  complete  frankness.  He  described  the  exact 
place  where  he  had  concealed  his  peltries. 

''T  is  well,"  replied  Arapooish  ;  "you  speak 
.straight.  It  is  just  as  you  say.  But  your  rar/it' 
has  been  robbed.  Go  and  .see  how  many  skins 
have  been  taken  from  it." 

Campbell  examined  the  cache,  and  estimated 
his  loss  to  be  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
beaver  .skins. 

Arapooish  now  summoned  a  meeting  of  the 
village.  He  bitterly  reproached  his  people  for 
robbing  a  stranger  who  had  confided  to  their 
honor ;  and  commanded  that  whoever  had 
taken  the  .skins,  should  bring  them  back ; 
declaring  that,  as  Campbell  was  his  guest  and 
inmate  of  his  lodge,  he  would  not  eat  nor  drink 
until  every  skin  was  restored  to  him. 

The  meeting  broke  up,  and  every  one  dis- 
pensed. Arajiooish  now  charged  Campbell  to 
give  neither  reward  nor  thanks  to  any  one  who 
should  bring  in  the  beaver  skins,  but  to  keep 
count  as  they  were  delivered. 

In  a  little  while,  the  skins  began  to  nmke 
their  appearance,  a  few  at  a  lime  ;  they  were 
laid  down  in  the  lodge,  and  tho.se  who  brought 


i 


'r'S»r«#-'w 


■'      '  , 


'j'j 


1\ 


^rr 


m 


mi 


I* 


'5! 


i 


It     ^ 


them  departed  without  saying  a  word.  The 
day  passed  away.  Arapooish  sat  in  one  cor- 
ner of  his  lodge,  wrapped  up  in  his  robe, 
scarcely  moving  a  muscle  of  his  countenance. 
When  night  arrived,  he  demanded  if  all  the 
skins  had  been  brought  in.  Above  a  hundred 
had  been  given  up,  and  Campbell  expressed 
himself  contented.  Not  .so  the  Crow  chieftain. 
He  fa.sted  all  that  night,  nor  tasted  a  drop  of 
water.  In  the  morning,  .some  more  .skins  were 
brought  in,  and  continued  to  come,  one  and 
two  at  a  time,  throughout  the  day  ;  until  but  a 
few  were  wanting  to  make  the  number  com- 
plete. Campbell  was  now  anxious  to  put  an 
end  to  this  fasting  of  the  old  chief,  and  declared 
that  he  was  perfectly  satisfied.  Arapooish 
demanded  what  number  of  skins  were  yet 
wanting.  On  being  told,  he  whispered  to  some 
of  his  people,  who  disappeared.  After  a  time 
the  number  were  brought  in,  though  it  was 
evident  they  were  not  any  of  the  skins  that 
had  been  stolen,  but  others  gleaned  in  the  vil- 
lage. 

"  Is  all  right  now?"  demanded  Arapooish. 

"  All  is  right,"  replied  Campbell. 

"  Good  !     Now  bring  me  meat  and  drink  !  " 

When  they  were  alone  together,  Arapooish 
had  a  conversation  with  his  guest. 

' '  When  you  come  another  time  among  the 


irM'fl 


t-^, 


?£::)S:^'^ 


Ijonor  Bmoiid  Ccow 


C^ 


vs? 


^.^. 


Crows,"  said  he,  "don't  hide  your  goods; 
trust  to  them  and  they  will  not  wrong  you. 
Put  your  goods  in  the  lodge  of  a  chief,  and 
they  are  sacred  ;  hide  them  in  a  cache,  and  any 
one  who  finds  them  will  steal  them.  My  peo- 
ple have  now  given  up  your  goods  for  my  sake  ; 
but  there  are  some  foolish  young  men  in  the 
village,  who  may  be  disposed  to  be  trouble- 
some. Don't  linger,  therefore,  but  pack  your 
horses  and  be  off." 

Campbell  took  his  advice,  and  made  his  way 
safelv  out  of  the  Crow  country.  He  has  ever 
since  maintained,  that  the  Crows  are  not  so 
black  as  they  are  painted.  "Trust  to  their 
honor,"  says  he,  "and  you  are  safe  ;  trust  to 
their  honesty,  and  they  will  steal  the  hair  oflF 
of  your  head." 

Having  given  these  few  preliminarj'  particu- 
lars, we  will  resume  the  course  of  our  narrative. 


r        ) 


m 


i    '•' 

I  1 

r'J/ 

/■■  w'^rr^ 


\: 


w 


■It  f 

1. 


,\t 


'i 


Gbaptcr  I'nuH. 

Departure  from  Green  River  Valley — Popo  Agie — Its 
Course — The   Rivers  into  which  it  Runs— Scenery 
of    the    ]51uiTs — The    Great    Tar   Sprinj^ — Volcatiic 
Traits  in  the  Crow  Country—  IJurning  Mountain  of 
r/\Nfc~  Powder   River — Sulphur   .Sprinj^s — Hidden    I'ires — 

Colter's    Hell— Wind    River— Campbell's     Party— 
^^i*j_/  Pitzpatrick  and  his  Trappers — Captain  Stewart,  an 

Amateur  Traveller — Nathaniel  Wyeth — Anecdotes 
of  his  Pvxpedition  to  the  P'ar  West — Disaster  of 
Campbell's  Party— A  Union  of  Bands — The  Bad 
Pass — The  Rapids — Departure  of  Pilzpatrick — Pjn- 
barkation  of  Peltries — Wyeth  and  his  Bull  Boat — 
Adventures  of  Captain  Bonneville  in  the  Bij^horn 
Mountains — Adventures  in  the  Plain— Traces  of  In- 
dians— Travelling  Precautions — Dangers  of  Making 
a  Smoke — TI     Rendezvous. 


OX  tlie  25th  of  July,  Captain  Bonneville 
strtick  his  tents,  and  set  otxt  on  his  route 
for  the  Bighorn,  at  the  head  of  a  party 
of  fifty  six  men.  including  those  who  were  to 
embark  with  Cerre.  Crossing  the  Green  River 
Valley,  he  proceeded  along  the  south  point  of 
the  Wind  River  range  of  mountains,  and  soon 


i-r 


m 


*xT^. 


Zbe  popo  Bgie 


251 


fell  upon  the  track  of  Mr.  Robert  CaiiipDell's 
party,  which  had  preceded  him  by  a  day. 
This  he  pursued,  luitil  he  perceived  that  it  led 
down  the  banks  of  the  Sweet  Water  to  the 
southeast.  As  this  was  different  from  his  pro- 
posed direction,  he  left  it  ;  and  turning  to  the 
northeast,  soon  came  upon  the  waters  of  the 
Popo  Agie.  This  stream  takes  its  rise  in  the 
Wind  River  Mountains.  Its  name,  like  most 
Indian  names,  is  characteristic.  J\)/)o,  in  the 
Crow  language,  signifying  head  ;  and  .•/;'/<', 
river.  It  is  the  head  of  a  long  river,  extending 
from  the  south  end  of  the  Wind  River  Moun- 
tains in  a  northeast  direction,  until  it  falls 
into  the  Yellowstone.  Its  course  is  generally 
through  plains,  bu.  is  twice  crossed  by  chains 
of  mountains  ;  the  first  called  the  I^ittlehorn, 
the  .second,  the  Bighorn.  After  it  has  forced 
its  way  through  the  first  chain,  it  is  called  the 
Horn  River  ;  after  the  sectmd  chain,  it  is  called 
the  Bighorn  River.  Its  pa.ssage  through  this 
last  chain  is  rough  and  violent ;  making  re- 
peated falls,  and  rushing  down  long  and  furious 
rapids,  which  threatened  destruction  to  the 
navigator  ;  though  a  hardy  trapper  is  said  to 
have  shot  down  them  in  a  canoe.  At  the  foot 
of  these  rapids,  is  the  head  of  navigation  ; 
where  it  was  the  intention  of  the  parties  to 
construct  boats,  and  embark. 


<t^ 


m 


n 


"^*  ^tr* 


I 


>n' 


1   hi 

if  f 


:li;i 


I  (HI 


!.•    ^ 


353 


JSonnevillc'd  Bdventurca 


Proceeding  down  along  the  Popo  Agie,  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  came  again  in  full  view  of  the 
"Bluffs,"  as  they  are  called,  extending  from 
the  base  of  the  Wind  River  Mountains  far 
awaj'  to  the  east,  and  presenting  to  the  eye  a 
confusion  of  hills  and  cliffs  of  red  sandstone, 
some  peaked  and  angular,  some  round,  some 
broken  into  crags  and  precipices,  and  piled  up 
in  fantastic  masses  ;  but  all  naked  and  sterile. 
There  appeared  to  be  no  soil  favorable  to  vege- 
tation, nothing  but  coarse  gravel  ;  yet,  over 
all  this  isolated,  barren  landscape,  were  diffused 
such  atmospherical  tints  and  hues,  as  to  blend 
the  rt'hole  into  harmony  and  beauty. 

In  this  neighborhood,  the  captain  made 
search  for  the  "Great  Tar  Spring,"  one  of 
the  wonders  of  the  mountains ;  the  medicinal 
properties  of  which,  he  had  heard  extravagantly 
lauded  by  the  trajipers.  After  a  toilsome 
search,  he  found  it  at  the  foot  of  a  sand-bluff, 
a  little  to  the  east  of  the  Wind  River  Moun- 
tains ;  where  it  exuded  in  a  small  stream  of 
the  color  and  consistency  of  tar.  The  men  im- 
mediately ha.stened  to  collect  a  quantity  of  it 
to  use  as  an  ointment  for  the  galled  backs  of 
their  horses,  and  as  a  balsam  for  their  own 
pains  and  aches.  From  the  description  given 
of  it,  it  is  evidently  the  bituminous  oil,  called 
petroleum  or  naphtha,  which  forms  a  principal 


> 


;^^f^^^ 


[^^ 


Tlatural  Curiostttei? 


CO,  ^ 


ingredient  in  the  potent  medicine  called  British 
Oil.  It  is  found  in  various  parts  of  Europe 
and  Asia,  in  several  of  the  West  India  islands, 
and  in  some  places  of  the  United  States.  In 
the  State  of  New  York,  it  is  called  Seneca  Oil, 
from  being  found  near  the  Seneca  Lake. 

The  Crow  country  has  other  natural  curiosi- 
ties, which  are  held  in  superstitious  awe  by  the 
Indians,  and  considered  great  niar\'els  by  the 
trappers.  Such  is  the  burning  mountain,  on 
Powder  River,  abounding  with  anthracite  coal. 
Here  the  earth  is  hot  and  cracked  ;  in  many 
places  emitting  .smoke  and  sulphurous  vapors, 
as  if  covering  concealed  fires.  A  volcanic 
tract  of  similar  character  is  found  on  Stinking 
River,  one  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Bighorn, 
which  takes  its  unhappy  name  from  the  odor 
derived  from  sulphurous  springs  and  streams. 
This  last-mentioned  place  was  first  discovered 
by  Colter,  a  hunter  belonging  to  Lewis  and 
Clarke's  exploring  party,  who  came  upon  it  in 
the  course  of  his  lonely  wanderings,  and  gave 
such  an  account  of  its  gloomy  terrors,  its  hid- 
den fires,  smoking  pits,  noxious  streams,  and 
the  all-pervading  "smell  of  brimstone,"  that 
it  received,  and  has  ever  since  retained  among 
trappers,  the  name  of  "  Colter's  Hell  !  " 

Resuming  his  descent  along  the  left  bank  of 
the  Popo  Agie,  Captain  Bonneville  soon  reached 


'n. 


I  .• 


(     t 


'^n 


Ft'! 


Hi 


}  .  hV 


K\ 


'^-y-T^^^^'i^/i^ 


MTi 


> 


^, 


k 


c"^ 


^■w 


u 


2=4 


.^rx'^C' r:!'- 


3Bonnevtne'6  Bdvcnturcd 


the  plains ;  where  he  found  several  large 
streams  entering  from  the  west.  Among  these 
was  Wind  River,  which  gives  its  name  to  the 
mountains  among  which  it  takes  its  rise.  This 
is  one  of  the  most  important  .streams  of  the 
Crow  country.  The  river  being  much  swollen, 
Captain  Bonneville  halted  at  its  mouth,  and 
.sent  out  .scouts  to  look  for  a  fording  place. 
While  thus  encamped,  he  beheld  in  the  course 
of  the  afternoon,  a  long  line  of  hor.semen  de- 
.scending  the  slope  of  the  hills  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  Popo  Agie.  His  first  idea  was, 
that  they  were  Indians ;  he  .soon  di.scovered, 
however,  that  they  were  white  men,  and,  by 
the  long  line  of  pack-horses,  ascertained  them 
to  be  the  convoy  of  Campbell,  which,  having 
descended  the  Sweet  Water,  was  now  t)n  its 
way  to  the  Horn  River. 

The  two  parties  came  together  twa  or  three 
days  afterwards,  on  the  4th  of  August,  after 
having  passed  through  the  gap  of  the  Little- 
horn  Mountain.  In  company  with  Campbell's 
convoj',  was  a  trapping  party  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Company,  headed  by  Fitzpatrick  ; 
who,  after  Campbell's  embarkation  on  the  Big- 
horn, was  to  take  charge  of  all  the  horses,  and 
proceed  on  a  trapping  campaign.  There  were, 
moreover,  two  chance  companions  in  the  rival 
camp.     One  was  Captain  Stewart  of  the  Brit- 


■-; 


i'i.\ 


on   its 


:)r  three 
t,  after    '^ 

Little- 
iipbell's 

Rocky 

>atrick  ; 

.heBiK-     ^^^-^;,, 

ses,  ami       \T  V  ^y 

re  were,      ^  U 

he  rival       WT.) 

he  Brit-     .%Vl 
%-v  - 


The  Edi^r  of  I  he  Lava  Beds. 


Kill)  •i-.t'ii  I >  i'»i  it 


l^lu'to-.nal'h. 


1 


/ 


III 


I  ! 


i 


'  '•( 


f 

) 

! 

( 

.■     1 

1 

■ 

1 

r 

^i\ 

r^ 


v^v.*  ii  jy  ^  ^'  'i.'a.'^  <*,4;  w  v^t. 


/I^ectiiid  wttb  Campbell 


255 


ish  army,  a  gentleman  of  noble  connections, 
who  was  amusing  himself  by  a  wandering  tour 
in  the  Far  West ;  in  the  course  of  which,  he 
had  lived  in  hunter's  style ;  accompanying 
various  bands  of  traders,  trappers,  and  Indians  ; 
and  manifesting  that  relish  for  Ihe  wilderness 
that  belongs  to  men  of  game  and  sjMrit. 

The  other  casual  inmate  of  Mr.  Campbell's 
camp  was  Mr.  Nathaniel  Wyeth  ;  the  self-same 
leader  of  the  band  of  New  iCngland  salmon 
fishers,  with  whom  we  parted  company  in  the 
valley  of  Pierre's  Hole,  after  the  battle  with 
the  Blackfeet.  A  few  days  after  that  affair,  he 
again  set  out  from  the  rendezvous  in  company 
with  Milton  Sublette  and  his  brigade  of  trap- 
pers. On  his  march,  he  visited  the  battle 
ground,  and  penetrated  to  t'rj  deserted  fort  of 
the  Blackfeet  in  the  midst  of  the  wood.  It 
was  a  dismal  scene.  The  fort  was  strewed 
with  the  mouldering  bodies  of  the  .slain  ;  while 
vultures  soared  aloft,  or  sat  brooding  on  the 
trees  around  ;  and  Indian  dogs  howled  about 
the  place,  as  if  bewailing  the  death  of  their 
masters.  Wyeth  travelled  for  a  considerable 
distance  to  the  .southwest,  in  company  with 
Milton  vSublette,  when  they  separated ;  and 
the  former,  with  eleven  men,  the  remnant  of 
his  band,  pu.shed  on  for  Snake  River;  kept 
down    the    course  of  that    eventful    stream ; 


^ 


tr'^ 


,<^j 


w 


Zfk. — 


I? 
If 


\\ 


\ 


»'i 


>'/-)     ^,— — 


i  ! 


3BonnevUlc'0  B5rcnturc6 


traversed  the  Blue  Mountains,  trapping  beaver 
occasionally  bj^  the  way,  and  finally,  after 
hardships  of  all  kinds,  arrived,  on  the  29th  of 
October,  at  Vancouver,  on  the  Columbia,  the 
main  factory  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 
He  experienced  hospitable  treatment  at  the 
hands  of  the  agents  of  that  company  ;  but  his 
men,  heartily  tired  of  wandering  in  the  wil- 
derness, or  tempted  by  other  prospects,  re- 
fused, for  the  most  part,  to  continue  any  longer 
in  his  service.  Some  set  off  for  the  Sandwich 
Islands ;  some  entered  inti,  other  employ. 
Wyeth  found,  too,  that  a  great  part  of  the 
goods  he  had  brought  with  him  were  unfitted 
for  the  Indian  trade ;  in  a  word,  his  expedi- 
tion, undertaken  entirely  on  his  own  resources, 
proved  a  failure.  He  lost  everything  invested 
in  it,  but  his  hopes.  These  were  as  strong  as 
ever.  He  took  note  of  everything,  therefore, 
that  could  be  of  service  to  him  in  the  further 
prosecution  of  his  project  ;  collected  all  the 
information  within  his  reach,  and  then  set  off, 
accompanied  by  merely  two  men,  on  his  re- 
turn journey  across  the  continent.  He  had 
got  thus  far,  "  by  hook  and  by  crook,"  a  mode 
in  which  a  New  England  man  can  make  his 
way  all  over  the  world,  and  through  all  kinds 
of  difficulties,  and  was  now  bound  for  Boston, 
in  full  confidence  of  being  able  to  form  a  com- 


m 


h 


w# 


.X**  . 


■^-r^" 


—^  >M,!i* 


Etsaster  of  Campbell's  pattg 


pany  fi^r  the  salmon  fishery  and  fur  trade  of 
the  Cohimbia. 

The  party  of  Mr.  Campbell  had  met  with  a 
disaster  in  the  course  of  their  route  from  the 
vSweet  Water.  Three  or  four  of  the  men,  wlio 
were  reconnoitring  the  country  in  the  advance 
of  the  main  body,  were  visited  one  night  in 
tlieir  camp,  by  fifteen  or  twenty  Shoshonies. 
Considering  this  tribe  as  perfectly  friendly, 
they  received  them  in  the  most  cordial  and 
confiding  manner.  In  the  course  of  the  night, 
the  man  on  guard  near  the  horses  fell  sound 
asleep  ;  upon  which  a  Shoshonie  shot  him  in 
the  head,  and  nearly  killed  him.  The  sav- 
ages then  made  off  with  the  horses,  leaving 
the  rest  of  the  party  to  find  their  way  to  the 
main  body  on  foot. 

The  rival  companies  of  Captain  Bonneville 
and  Mr.  Campbell,  thus  fortuitously  brought 
together,  now  prosecuted  their  journey  in  great 
good  fellowship,  forming  a  joint  camp  of  about 
a  hundred  men.  The  captain,  however,  began 
to  entertain  doubts  that  Fitzpatrick  and  his 
trappers,  who  kept  profound  silence  as  to  their 
future  movements,  intended  to  hunt  the  .same 
groiuids  which  he  had  selected  for  his  autumnal 
campaign,  which  lay  to  the  west  of  the  Horn 
River,  on  its  tributary  streams.  In  the  course 
of  his  march,   therefore,  he  secretly  detached 


VOL.   I.  — 17 


<k^i 


II]  \ 


!      • 


V^ 


\s 


.iOk^ 


,jL^JIi 


^1  ..,— - 


'f 


>.        i 

1    ■ 

;            ! 

^^r^',?  /^l\ 

'...'M 


V 


*3; 


JSonneville's  adventures 


a  small  party  of  trappers,  to  make  their  way  to 
those  hunting  grounds,  while  he  continued  on 
with  the  main  body  ;  appointing  a  rendezvous, 
at  the  next  full  moon,  about  the  28th  of  Au- 
gust, at  a  place  called  the  Medicine  Lodge. 

On  reaching  the  second  chain,  called  the  Big- 
horn Mountains,  where  the  river  forced  its  im- 
petuous way  through  a  precipitous  defile,  with 
cascades  and  rapids,  the  travellers  were  obliged 
to  leave  its  banks,  and  traverse  the  mountains 
by  a  rugged  and  frightful  route,  emphatically 
called  the  "  Bad  Pass."  Descending  the  oppo- 
site side,  they  again  made  for  the  river  banks  ; 
and  about  the  middle  of  August  reached  the 
point  below  the  rapids  where  the  river  becomes 
navigable  for  boats.  Here  Captain  Bonneville 
detached  a  .second  party  of  trappers,  con.sisting 
of  ten  men,  to  .seek  and  join  those  whom  he 
had  detached  while  on  the  route,  appointing 
for  them  the  same  rendezvous  (at  the  Medicine 
Lodge),  on  the  28th  of  August. 

All  hands  now  set  to  work  to  construct  "  bull 
boats."  as  they  are  technically  called  ;  a  hght, 
fragile  kind  of  bark,  characteristic  of  the  ex- 
pedients and  inventions  of  the  wilderness ; 
being  formed  of  buffalo  skins,  stretched  on 
frames.  They  are  sometimes,  also,  called  skin 
boats.  Wyeth  was  the  first  ready  ;  and,  with 
his  usual  promptness  and  hardihood,  launched 


ij 


"Lfi 


V. 


\ 


Departure  of  jritjpatrtck 


his  frail  bark,  singlj*,  on  this  wild  and  hazard- 
/tufV  o"s  voyage,  down  an  almost  interminable  suc- 
//_!  v\  cession  of  rivers,  winding  through  countries 
teeming  with  savage  hordes.  Milton  Sublette, 
his  former  fellow-traveller,  and  his  companion 
in  the  battle  scenes  of  Pierre's  Hole,  took  pas- 
sage in  his  boat.  His  crew  consisted  of  two 
white  men  and  two  Indians.  We  shall  hear 
further  of  Wyeth,  and  his  wild  voyage,  in  the 
course  of  our  wanderings  about  the  Far  West. 

The  remaining  parties  soon  completed  their 
several  armaments.  That  of  Captain  Bonne- 
ville was  composed  of  three  bull  boats,  in  which 
he  embarked  all  his  peltries,  giving  them  in 
charge  of  Mr.  Cerre,  with  a  party  of  thirty-six 
men.  Mr.  Campbell  took  command  of  his  own 
boats,  and  the  little  squadrons  were  soon  glid- 
ing down  the  bright  current  of  the  Bighorn. 

The  .secret  precautions  which  Captain  Bonne- 
ville had  taken,  to  throw  his  men  first  into  the 
trapping  ground  west  of  the  Bighorn,  were, 
probably,  superfluous.  It  did  not  appear  that 
Fitzpatrick  had  intended  to  hunt  in  that  direc- 
tion. The  moment  Mr.  Campbell  and  his  men 
embarked  with  the  peltries,  Fitzpatrick  took 
charge  of  all  the  horses,  amounting  to  above  a 
hundred,  and  struck  off  to  the  east,  to  trap 
upon  Littlehorn,  Powder,  and  Tongue  rivers. 
He  was  accompanied  by  Captain  Stewart,  who 


iH 


{ 


m 

'      <   4 


ft 

if 


».^»Jl.Li|iiu  l..ii4|iii*i'D 


^ 


".-    ;,|^^ 


;V="ltiSpn:. 


JGoiincvillc's  BDvcnturcs 


was  desirous  of  having  a  range  about  the  Crow 
country.  Of  the  adventures  they  met  with  in 
that  region  of  vagabonds  and  horse  stealers, 
we  shall  have  something  to  relate  hereafter. 

Captain  Bonneville  being  now  left  to  prose- 
cute his  trapping  campTign  without  rivalry, 
set  out,  on  the  17th  of  August,  for  the  rendez- 
vous at  Medicine  Lodge.  He  had  but  four 
men  remaining  with  him,  and  forty-six  horses 
to  take  care  of ;  with  these  he  had  to  make  his 
way  over  mountain  and  plain,  through  a  ma- 
rauding, horse-stealing  region,  full  of  peril  for 
a  numerous  cavalcade  so  slightly  manned.  He 
addressed  himself  to  his  difficult  journey,  how- 
ever, with  his  usual  alacrity  of  spirit. 

In  the  afternoon  of  his  first  day's  journey, 
on  drawing  near  to  the  Bighorn  Mountain,  on 
the  summit  of  which  he  intended  to  encamp 
for  the  night,  he  observed,  to  his  disquiet,  a 
cloud  of  smoke  rising  from  its  base.  He  came 
to  a  halt,  and  watched  it  anxiously.  It  was 
very  irregular  ;  .sometimes  it  would  almost  die 
away  ;  and  then  would  mount  up  in  heavy 
volumes.  There  was,  apparently,  a  large  party 
encamped  there  ;  probably,  .some  ruffian  horde 
of  Blackfeet.  At  any  rate,  it  would  not  do  for 
so  small  a  number  of  men,  with  .so  numerous  a 
cavalcade,  to  venture  wi^'iin  sight  of  any  wan- 
dering   tribe.       Captain    Bonneville    and    his 


t/ 


l\ 


AWi 


iMm^^^^^^&^ 


XLtavellinn  iprccauttoittj 


261 


companions,  therefore,  avoided  this  dangerous 
neighVjorhood,  and,  proceeding  with  extreme 
caution,  reached  the  sunnnit  of  the  mountain, 
apparently  without  being  discovered.  Here 
they  found  a  deserted  Rlackfoot  fort,  in  which 
they  ensconced  themselves  ;  disposed  of  every- 
thing as  s  curely  as  possible,  and  passed  the 
night  without  molestation.  Early  the  next 
morning  they  descended  the  south  side  of 
the  mountain  into  the  great  plain  extending 
between  it  and  the  Littlehorn  range.  Here 
they  soon  came  upon  munerous  footprints, 
and  the  carcasses  of  buffaloes  ;  by  which  they 
knew  there  must  be  Indians  not  far  off.  Cap- 
tain B(mncville  now  began  to  feel  solicitude 
about  the  two  small  parties  of  trappers  which 
he  had  detached  ;  lest  the  Indians  should  have 
come  upon  them  liefore  they  had  united  their 
forces.  liut  he  sMll  felt  more  solicitude  about 
his  own  party  ;  for  it  was  hardly  to  be  ex- 
pected he  could  traverse  these  naked  plains 
undiscovered,  when  Indians  were  abroad  ;  and 
should  he  be  discovered,  his  chance  would  be 
a  desperate  one.  Kvcrything  now  depended 
upon  the  greatest  circumspection.  It  was 
dangerous  to  discharge  a  gun,  or  light  a  fire, 
or  make  the  least  noise,  where  such  quick- 
eared  and  quick- sigh  ted  enemies  were  at  hand. 
In  the  course  of  the  day  they  saw  indubitable 


<-^ 


t" 


C^i^t-'-J; 


li 


'I 


S.^' 


;/ 


ti 


J;1 


n 


/ 


/  ; 


a 


ti 


in 


^ 


> 


^^ 


k 


'■mojM^ 


363 


;J3omicvUle'i;  BDvcnturca 


signs  that  the  buffalo  had  been  roaming  there 
in  great  numbers,  and  had  recently  been 
frightened  away.  That  night  they  encamped 
with  the  greatest  care  ;  and  threw  up  a  strong 
breastwork  for  their  protection. 

For  the  two  succeeding  days  they  pressed 
forward  rapidly,  but  cautiously,  across  the 
great  plain  ;  fording  the  tributary  streams  of 
the  Horn  River  ;  encamping  one  night  among 
thickets ;  the  next,  on  an  island  ;  meeting, 
repeatedly,  with  traces  of  Indians  ;  and  now 
and  then,  in  passing  through  a  defile,  experi- 
encing alarms  that  induced  them  to  cock  their 
rifles. 

On  the  last  day  of  their  march  hunger  got 
the  better  of  their  caution,  and  they  shot  a  fine 
buffalo  bull  at  the  risk  of  being  betrayed  by 
the  report.  The}'  did  not  halt  to  make  a  meal, 
but  carried  the  meat  on  with  them  to  the  place 
of  rendezvous,  the  Medicine  Lodge,  where  they 
arrived  safely,  in  the  evening,  and  celebrated 
their  arrival  by  a  hearty  supper. 

The  next  morning  they  erected  a  strong  pen 
for  the  horses,  and  a  fortress  of  logs  for  them- 
selves ;  and  continued  to  observe  the  greatest 
caution.  Their  cooking  was  all  done  at  mid- 
day when  the  fire  makes  no  glare,  and  a 
moderate  smoke  cannot  be  perceived  at  any 
great  distance.     In  the  morning  and  evening, 


^:: 


0 


I 


b 


■I       I 


Brrtval  ot  Betacbmenta 


263   j*'),. 


when  the  wind  is  hilled,  the  smoke  rises  per- 
pendicnlarly  in  a  blue  column,  or  floats  in 
light  clouds  above  the  tree-tops,  and  can  be 
discovered  from  afar. 

In  this  way  the  little  party  remained  for 
several  daj's,  cautiously  encamped,  initil,  on 
the  29th  August,  the  two  detacliments  they 
had  been  expecting,  arrived  together  at  the 
rendezvous.  They,  as  usual,  had  their  several 
tales  of  adventures  to  relate  to  the  captain, 
which  we  will  furnish  to  the  reader  in  the  next 
chapter. 


^X 


h 


^^i 


fe 


'     I 


t:     I 


r 


'i 


!l 


■It 


■I'-'n  ,>,^ 


I 


MBjaaiiag -iirri 


i   I 


I , 


iii!  '^'Ml 


Cbaptet  ipw. 

Adventures  of  the  Party  of  Tor. — Tlie  Balaaniite  Mule 
— A  Dead  Point — The  ^l^sterious  Ivlks — A  Nij^ht 
Attack — A  Retreat — Tr.'uelH'Js  under  an  Ahirin — 
A  Joyful  Meeting — Advontures  of  the  Other  Tarty — 
A  Decoy  Klk — Retreat  to  an  Island — A  vSavage 
Dance  of  Triumjih — Arrival  at  Wind  River. 

THlC  adventures  of  the  detachtnent  of  ten 
are  tlu-  first  in  order.  These  trappers, 
when  they  separated  from  Captain 
Bonneville  at  the  place  wh'..e  the  furs  were 
embarked,  proceeded  co  tivs  foot  of  the  Big- 
horn Motmtain,  and  havliig  eno-i.njped,  one  of 
them  motinted  his  male  nnd  went  out  to  set 
his  trap  in  a  neighboring  stream.  He  had  not 
proceeded  far  when  his  steel  ciire  to  a  full 
stop.  The  trapper  kicked  and  cudgelled,  but 
to  every  blow  and  kick  the  mule  snorted  and 
kicked  up,  but  still  refused  to  budge  an  inch. 
The  rider  now  cast  his  eyes  warily  around  in 
.search  of  .some  cause  for  this  demur,  when,  to 
his  di.smay,  he  di.scovered  an  Indian  fort  within 


Vii 


%£' 


m 


'•(<-; 


£^ 


♦wi 


Cbe  Wrapper's  "Report 


gunshot  distance,  lowering  through  the  twi- 
light. It',  a  twinkling  he  wheeled  about;  his 
mule  now  seemed  as  eager  to  get  on  as  himself, 
and  in  a  few  moments  brought  him,  clattering 
with  his  traps,  among  his  comrades.  He  was 
jeered  at  for  his  alacrity  in  retreating  ;  his  re- 
port was  treated  as  a  false  alarm  ;  his  brother 
trappers  contented  themselves  with  recoinioi- 
tring  the  fort  at  a  distance,  and  pronounced 
that  it  was  deserted.  As  night  .set  in,  the 
usual  precaution,  enjoined  by  Captain  Bon- 
neville on  his  men,  was  ob.served.  The 
horses  were  brought  in  and  tied,  and  a  guard 
stationed  over  them.  This  done,  the  men 
wrapped  themselves  in  their  blankets,  stretched 
themselves  i)efore  the  fire,  and  being  fatigued 
with  a  long  day's  march,  and  gorged  with  a 
hearty  supper,  were  soon  in  a  profound  .sleep. 
Tlie  camp  fires  gradually  died  away  ;  all 
was  dark  and  silent  ;  the  sentinel  stationed  to 
watch  the  horses  had  marched  as  far,  and 
supped  as  heartily  as  any  of  his  companions, 
and  while  they  snored,  he  began  to  nod  at  his 
po.st.  After  a  time,  a  low  trampling  noise 
reached  his  ear  .  He  half  opened  his  eyes,  and 
beheld  two  or  three  elks  moving  about  the 
lodges,  picking,  and  smelling,  and  grazing 
here  and  there.  The  sight  of  elk  within  the 
purlieus  of  the  camp  caused  some  little   sur- 


•J 


Kv.'-) 


— ^cC'' 


ii^X^S 


II 


I  '       1 


i>;ypj^r^*«iw»p» 


I  < : 


II 


266 


:6onncv>lUe'0  B^ventured 


6^ 


m 


£\ 


k^ 


rt 


prise  ;  but,  having  had  his  supper,  he  cared 
not  for  elk  meat,  and,  suffering  them  to  graze 
about  unmolested,  soon  relapsed  into  a  doze. 

Suddenly,  before  daybreak,  a  discharge  of 
fire-arms,  and  a  struggle  and  tramp  of  horses, 
made  every  one  to  start  to  his  feet.  The  first 
move  was  to  secure  the  horses.  Some  were 
gone ;  others  were  struggling,  and  kicking, 
and  trembling,  for  there  was  a  horrible  uproar 
of  whoops,  and  yells,  and  fire-arms.  Several 
trappers  stole  quietly  from  the  camp,  and  suc- 
ceeded in  driving  in  the  horses  whicli  had 
broken  away  ;  the  rest  were  tethered  still  more 
strongly.  A  breastwork  was  thrown  up  of  sad- 
dles, baggage,  and  camp  furniture,  and  all 
hands  waited  anxiously  for  daylight.  The 
Indians,  in  the  meantime,  collected  on  a  neigh- 
boring height,  kept  up  the  most  horrible 
clamor,  in  hopes  of  striking  a  panic  into  the 
camp,  or  frightening  off  the  horses.  When 
the  day  dawned,  the  trappers  attacked  them 
Ijriskl}'  and  drove  them  to  some  distance.  A 
desultory  faring  was  kept  up  for  an  hour, 
when  the  Indians,  seeing  nothing  was  to  be 
gained,  gave  up  the  contest  and  retired.  They 
proved  to  be  a  war  party  of  Blackfeet,  who, 
while  in  search  cf  the  Crow  tribe,  had  fallen 
upon  the  trail  of  Captain  Bonneville  on  the 
Popo  Agie,  and  dogged  him  to  the  Bighorn  ; 


V 


I ; 


K 


<  *i 


a 


Cbange  of  "Route 


267 


but  liad  been  completely  baffled  by  his  vigi- 
lance. They  had  then  waylaid  the  present 
detachment,  and  were  actually  housed  in  per- 
fect silence  within  their  fort,  when  the  mule  of 
the  trapper  made  such  a  dead  point. 

The  savages  went  off  uttering  the  wildest 
denunciations  of  hostility,  mingled  with  op- 
probrious terms  in  broken  English,  and  ges- 
ticulations of  the  most  insulting  kind. 

In  this  melee,  one  white  man  was  wounded, 
and  two  horses  were  killed.  On  preparing  the 
morning's  meal,  however,  a  luimber  of  cups, 
knives,  and  other  articles  were  missing,  which 
had,  doubtless,  been  carried  off  by  the  fictitious 
elk,  during  the  slumber  of  the  very  sagacious 
sentinel. 

As  the  Indians  had  gone  off  in  the  direction 
which  the  trappers  had  intended  to  travel,  the 
latter  changed  their  route,  and  pushed  forward 
rapidly  through  the  "Bad  Pass,"  nor  halted 
until  night ;  when,  supposing  themselves  out 
of  the  reach  of  the  enemy,  they  contented 
themselves  with  tying  up  their  horses  and 
posting  a  guard.  They  had  scarce  laid  down 
to  sleep,  when  a  dog  straj-ed  into  the  camp  with 
a  small  pack  of  moccasins  tied  upon  his  back  ; 
for  dogs  are  made  to  carry  burdens  among  the 
Indians.  The  sen^'nel,  more  knowing  than  he 
of  the  precediijg^  night,  avvokj&,his  companion 


J^ 


I    I  1       •^  ■ 


aes 


« 


I 


IIH  -I 


:li 


> '. 


i 

i 


!  ! 


W,v. ! 


2(>S 


asonncviUc'a  BOventurcs 


and  reported  the  circumstance.  It  was  evident 
that  Indians  were  at  hand.  All  were  instantly 
at  work  ;  a  strong  pen  was  :;oon  coni-tructed 
for  the  horses,  after  completing  which,  they 
resumed  their  slumbers  with  the  ooraposure  of 
men  long  inured  to  danger. 

In  the  next  n'ght,  the  prowling  of  dogs 
about  the  camp,  aii'l  various  suspicious  noi.ses, 
showed  that  Indians  were  still  hovering  about 
them.  Hurrying  on  by  long  marches,  they  at 
length  fell  upon  a  trail,  which,  with  the  expe- 
rienced eye  of  a  veteran  woodman,  they  soon 
discovered  to  be  tiiat  of  the  party  of  trappers 
detached  by  Captain  Bonneville  when  on  his 
march,  and  which  they  were  sent  to  join. 
They  likewise  ascertained  from  various  signs, 
that  this  party  had  suffered  some  maltreatment 
from  the  Indians.  They  now  pursued  the  trail 
with  intense  anxiety  ;  it  carried  them  to  the 
banks  of  the  stream  called  the  Gray  Bull,  and 
down  along  its  course,  until  they  came  to  where 
it  empties  into  the  Horn  River.  Here,  to  their 
great  joy,  they  di.scovered  the  comrades  of  whom 
they  were  in  search,  all  strongly  fortified,  and 
in  a  .state  of  great  watchfulness  and  anxiet\'. 

We  now  take  up  the  adventures  of  this  fir.st 
detachment  of  trappers.  These  men,  after  part- 
ing with  the  main  body  under  Captain  Bonne- 
ville, had  proceeded  slowly  for  several  days  up 


:t\ 


6 


0*lB 


-V 


^ 


^i  Decois  £lft 


the  course  of  the  river,  trapping  beaver  as  they 
went.  One  morning,  as  they  were  about  to 
visit  their  traps,  one  of  the  camp-keepers 
pointed  to  a  fir.e  elk,  grazing  at  a  d  stance,  and 
requested  them  to  shoot  it.  Three  of  the  trap- 
pers started  off  for  the  purpose.  In  passing 
the  thicket,  they  were  fired  upon  by  some  sav- 
ages in  ambush,  and  at  the  same  time,  the 
pretended  elk,  throwing  off  his  hide  and  horn, 
started  forth  an  Indian  warrior. 

One  of  the  three  trappers,  had  been  brought 
down  by  the  volley  ;  the  others  fled  to  the  camp, 
and  all  hands,  seizing  up  whatever  they  could 
carry  off,  retreated  to  a  small  island  in  the  river, 
and  took  refuge  among  the  willows.  Here  they 
were  soon  joined  by  theircomnulewhohad  fallen, 
jut  who  had  merely  been  wounded  in  the  neck. 

In  the  meantime,  the  Itidians  took  pos.session 
of  the  deserted  camp,  with  all  the  traps,  ac- 
coutrements, and  horses.  While  they  \.ere 
busy  among  the  spoils,  a  .solitary  trapper,  who 
had  been  ab.sent  at  his  work,  came  sauntering 
to  the  camp  with  his  traps  on  his  back.  He 
had  approached  near  by,  when  an  Indian  came 
forward  and  motioned  him  to  keep  awaj*  ;  at 
the  same  moment,  he  was  perceived  by  his 
comrades  on  the  island,  and  warned  of  his  dan- 
ger with  loud  cries.  The  poor  fellow  stood  for 
a  moment,  bewildered  and  aghast,  then  drop- 


l«      ' 


D 


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,' , 


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.%^ 


270  jSonneviUe's  aDventured 


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A 


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ping 


his  traps,  wheeled  and  made  off  at  full 
speed,  quickened  by  a  sportive  volley  which 
the  Indians  rattled  after  him. 

In  high  good  humor  with  their  easy  triumph, 
the  savages  now  formed  a  circle  round  the  fire 
and  performed  a  war  dance,  with  the  unlucky 
trappers  for  rueful  spectators.  This  done,  em- 
boldened by  what  they  considered  cowardice  on 
the  part  of  the  white  men,  they  neglected  their 
usual  mode  of  bush-fighting,  and  advanced 
openly  within  twenty  paces  of  the  willows,  A 
sharp  volley  from  the  trappers  brought  them  to  a 
sudden  halt,  and  laid  three  of  them  breathless. 
The  chief,  who  had  stationed  himself  on  an  emi- 
nence to  direct  all  the  movements  of  his  jjeople, 
seeing  three  of  his  warriors  laid  low,  ordered  the 
rest  to  retire.  They  immediately  did  so,  and  the 
whole  band  .soon  disappeared  behind  a  point 
of  woods,  carrying  off  with  them  the  horses, 
traps,  and  tlie  greater  part  of  the  baggage. 

It  wasjust  after  this  misfortune,  that  the  party 
of  ten  men  discovered  this  forlorn  band  of  trap- 
pers in  a  fortress,  which  they  had  thrown  up 
after  their  disaster.  They  were  so  perfectly 
dismayed,  that  they  could  not  be  induced  even 
to  go  in  que.st  of  their  traps,  which  they  had 
.set  in  a  neighboring  .stream.  The  two  parties 
now  joined  their  forces,  and  made  their  way, 
without  further  misfortune,  to  the  rendezvous. 


Brcival  at  KninO  IRivct 


Captain  Bonneville  perceived  from  the  reports 
of  these  parties,  as  well  as  from  what  he  had 
observed  himself  in  his  recent  march,  that  he 
was  in  a  neighborhood  teeming  with  danger. 
Two  wandering  Snake  Indians,  also,  who 
visited  the  camp,  assured  him  that  there  were 
two  large  bands  of  Crows  marching  rapidly 
upon  him.  He  broke  up  his  encampment, 
therefore,  on  the  ist  of  September,  made  his 
way  to  the  south,  across  the  Littlehorn  Moun- 
tain, until  he  reached  Wind  River,  and  then 
turning  westward,  moved  slowly  up  the  banks 
of  that  .stream,  giving  time  for  his  men  to  trap 
as  he  proceeded.  As  it  was  not  in  the  plan  of 
the  present  hunting  campaign  to  go  near  the 
caches  on  Green  River,  and  as  the  trappers  were 
in  want  of  traps  to  replace  those  they  had  lost. 
Captain  Bonneville  undertook  to  vi.sit  the 
caches,  and  procure  a  supply.  To  accompany 
him  in  this  hazardous  expedition,  which  would 
take  him  through  the  defiles  of  the  Wind  River 
Mountains,  and  up  the  Green  River  Valley,  he 
took  but  three  men  ;  the  main  party  were  to 
continue  on  trapping  up  towards  the  head  of 
Wind  River,  near  which  he  was  to  rejoin  them, 
just  about  the  place  where  that  stream  issues 
from  the  mountains.  We  shall  accompany  the 
captain  on  his  adventurous  errand. 


S=ssS^^^ 


'W, 


h 


> 


, , 


«         :  . 

i  '  "!■  I  ' 

CFjapter  i*|*lt). 

Captain  Bonneville  Sets  Out  for  Green  River  Valley — 
Journey  up  the  Popo  Af{ie — Buffaloes —  The  Staring 
White  Bears— The  Smoke— The  Warm  Springs— At- 
tempt to  Traverse  the  Wind  River  Mountains — The 
Great  Slope— Mountain  Dells  and  Chasms — Crystal 
Lakes — Ascent  of  a  Snowy  Peak — Sublime  Prospect 
— A  Panorama — "  Les  Dignes  de  Pitie,"  or  Wild 
Men  of  the  Mountaius. 

HAVIXG  forded  Wind  River  a  little  above 
its  mouth,  Captain  Botnieville  and  his 
three  companions  proceeded  across  a 
gravelly  plain,  until  they  fell  upon  the  Popo 
Agie,  up  the  left  bank  of  which  they  held  their 
course,  nearly  in  a  southerly  direction.  Here 
they  came  upon  numerous  droves  of  buffalo, 
and  halted  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  a 
supply  of  beef.  As  the  hunters  were  stealing 
cautiruslj'  to  get  within  shot  of  the  game,  two 
small  white  bears  suddenly  presented  them- 
selves in  their  path,  and,  rising  upon  their  hind 
legs,  contemplated  them  for  some  time,  with  a 

272 


I     ' 


nf 


whimsically  solemn  gaze.  The  hunters  re- 
mained motionless  ;  whereupon  the  bears,  hav- 
ing apparentl}'  satisfied  their  curiosity,  lowered 
themselves  upon  all  fours,  and  began  to  with- 
draw. The  hunters  now  advanced,  upon  which 
the  bears  turned,  rose  again  upon  their 
haunches,  and  repeated  their  serio-comic  ex- 
amination. This  was  repeated  several  times, 
until  the  hunters,  piqued  at  their  unmannerly 
staring,  rebuked  it  with  a  discharge  of  their 
rifles.  The  bears  made  an  awkward  bound  or 
two,  as  if  wounded,  and  then  walked  off  with 
great  gravity,  seeming  to  commune  together, 
and  every  now  and  then  turning  to  take  another 
look  at  the  hunters.  It  was  well  tor  the  latter 
that  the  bears  were  but  half  grown,  and  had 
not  yet  acquired  the  ferocity  of  their  kind. 

The  buffalo  were  .somewhat  startled  at  the 
report  of  the  fire-arms  ;  but  the  hunters  suc- 
ceeded in  killing  a  couple  of  fine  cows,  and, 
having  secured  the  best  of  the  meat,  continued 
forward  until  some  time  after  dark,  when,  en- 
camping in  a  large  thicket  of  willows,  they 
made  a  great  fire,  roasted  buffalo  beef  enough 
for  half  a. score,  dispo.sed  of  the  whole  of  it  with 
keen  relish  and  high  glee,  and  then  "turned 
in  "  for  the  night  and  slept  soundlj',  like  weary 
and  well-fed  hunters. 

At  daylight  they  were  in  the  saddle  again, 

VOL.  I.— 18 


f:J} 


^m. 


i> 


i 
I      I 


I' 


i' 


( i)i 


#«!«( 


^m 


874 


' '^^KSj  \si><i^  <ii^ kiii<.- 


JBonneptllc'0  BOventured 


and  skirted  along  the  river,  passing  through 
fresh  grassy  meadows,  and  a  succession  of 
beautiful  groves  of  willows  and  cotton-wood. 
Towards  evening.  Captain  Bonneville  observed 
a  smoke  at  a  distance  rising  from  among  hills, 
directly  in  the  route  he  was  pursuing.  Appre- 
hensive of  .some  hostile  band,  he  concealed  the 
horses  in  a  thicket,  and,  accompanied  by  one 
of  his  men,  crawled  cautiously  up  a  height, 
from  which  he  could  overlook  the  scene  of  dan- 
ger. Here,  with  a  spy-gla.ss,  he  reconnt)itred 
the  surrounding  countr}-,  but  not  a  l^^'ge  nor 
fire,  not  a  man,  horse,  nor  dog  was  to  be  dis- 
covered ;  in  short,  the  smoke  which  had  caused 
such  alarm  proved  to  be  the  vapor  from  .several 
warm,  or  rather  hot  springs  of  considerable 
magnitude,  pouring  forth  streams  in  every 
direction  over  a  bottom  of  white  clay.  One 
of  the  springs  was  about  twenty-five  yards  in 
diameter,  an  so  deep  that  the  water  was  of  a 
bright  green  color. 

They  were  now  advancing  diagonally  upon 
the  chain  of  Wind  River  Mountains,  which  lay 
between  them  and  Green  River  \'alley.  To 
coast  round  th-iir  .southern  points  would  be  a 
wide  circuit  ;  whereas,  could  they  force  their 
way  through  them,  they  might  proceed  in  a 
straight  line.  The  mountains  were  lofty,  with 
snowy  peaks  and  cragged  sides  ;  it  was  hoped. 


V 


w_> 


Zbe  Ovcat  Slope  275 


however,  that  some  practicable  defile  might  be 
found.  They  attempted,  accordingly,  to  pene- 
trate the  mountains  by  following  up  one  of  the 
branches  of  the  Popo  Agie,  but  soon  found 
themselves  in  the  midst  of  stupendous  crags 
and  precipices  that  barred  all  progress.  Re- 
tracing their  steps,  and  falling  back  upon  the 
river,  they  consulted  where  to  make  another 
attempt.  They  were  too  close  1)eneath  the 
mountains  to  scan  them  generallj-,  but  they 
now  recollected  having  noticed,  from  the  plain, 
a  beautiful  slope,  rising,  at  an  angle  of  about 
thirty  degrees,  and  apparently  without  any 
break,  until  it  reached  the  snowj-  region. 
Seeking  this  gentle  acclivity,  thej'  began  to 
ascend  it  with  alacrity,  trusting  to  find  at  the 
top  one  of  those  elevated  plains  which  prevail 
among  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  slope  was 
covered  with  coarse  gravel,  interspersed  with 
plates  of  freestone.  They  attained  the  summit 
with  some  toil,  but  found,  instead  of  a  level, 
or  rather  undulating  plain,  that  they  were 
on  the  brink  of  a  deep  and  precipitous  ravine, 
from  the  bottom  of  which  rose  a  .second  slope, 
similar  to  the  one  they  had  just  ascended. 
Down  into  this  profound  ravine  they  made 
their  way  by  a  rugged  path,  or  rather  fissure 
of  the  rocks,  and  then  labored  up  the  second 
slope.     They  gained  the  summit  only  to  find 


k:\ 


b  r 


^%^. 


\/A^ 


11     ,11^ 

111. 
i' 


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m  i 


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-Ji;;^=.i^^^==fi^~- 


JBonnevtllc'd  Bdventures 


themselves  on  another  ravine,  and  now  per- 
ceived that  this  vast  mountain,  which  had 
presented  such  a  sloping  and  even  side  to  the 
distant  beholder  on  the  plain,  was  shagged  by 
frightful  precipices,  and  seamed  with  longitu- 
dinal chasms,  deep  and  dangerous. 

In  one  of  these  wild  dells  they  passed  the 
night,  and  slept  soundly  and  sweetly  after 
their  fatigues.  Two  days  more  of  arduous 
climbing  and  scrambling  only  served  to  ad- 
mit them  into  the  heart  of  this  mountainous 
and  awful  solitude,  where  difficulties  increased 
as  they  proceeded.  Sometimes  they  scrambled 
from  rock  to  rock,  up  the  bed  of  some  moun- 
tain stream,  dashing  its  bright  way  down  to 
the  plains  ;  sometimes  thej'  availed  themselves 
of  the  paths  made  by  the  deer  and  the  moun- 
tain sheep,  which,  however,  often  took  them 
to  the  brink  of  fearful  precipices,  or  led  to 
rugged  defiles,  impassable  for  their  horses. 
At  one  place,  they  were  obliged  to  slide  their 
horses  down  the  face  of  a  rock,  in  which  at- 
tempt some  of  the  poor  animals  lost  their  foot- 
ing, rolled  to  the  bottom,  and  came  near  being 
dashed  to  pieces. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  second  day,  the  trav- 
ellers attained  one  of  the  elevated  valleys  l(x?ked 
up  in  this  singular  bed  of  mountains.  Here 
were  two  bright  and  beautiful  little  lakes,  set 


^TO 


e, 


^ 


m 


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XH'V 


Bdccnt  o(  a  Snows  Pcaft 


377 


^ 


n 


like  mirrors  in  the  midst  of  stern  and  rocky 
heights,  and  surroiuided  by  grassy  meadows, 
inexpressibly  refreshing  to  the  eye.  These 
probably  were  among  the  sources  of  those 
mighty  streams  which  take  their  rise  among 
these  mountains,  and  wander  hundreds  of  miles 
through  the  plains. 

In  the  green  pastures  bordering  upon  these 
lakes,  the  travellers  halted  to  repose,  and  to 
give  their  weary  horses  time  to  crop  the  sweet 
and  tender  herbage.  They  had  now  ascended 
to  a  jjreat  height  above  the  level  of  the  plains, 
yet  they  beheld  huge  crags  of  granite  piled 
one  upon  another,  and  l)eetling  like  battlements 
far  above  them.  While  two  of  the  men  re- 
mained in  the  camp  with  the  horses,  Captain 
Bonneville,  accompanied  by  the  other  men,  set 
out  to  climb  a  neighboring  height,  hoping  to 
gain  a  commanding  prospect,  and  discern  some 
practicable  route  through  this  .stupendous  laby- 
rinth. After  much  toil,  he  reached  the  summit 
of  a  lofty  cliff,  but  it  was  only  to  behold  gigan- 
tic peaks  rising  all  around,  and  towering  fir 
into  the  snowy  regions  of  the  atmosphere.  Se- 
lecting one  which  appeared  to  be  the  highest, 
he  crossed  a  narrow  intervening  valley,  and 
began  to  .scale  it.  He  .soon  found  that  he  had 
undertaken  a  tremendous  task  ;  but  the  pride 
of  man    is   never   more    obstinate   than  when 


n 


<l 


fts^% 


'h 


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1^ 

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,^*l  I 


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r 


climbing  mountains.  The  ascent  was  so  steep 
and  rugged  that  he  and  his  companions  were 
frequently  obliged  to  clamber  on  hands  and 
knees,  with  their  guns  slung  upon  their  backs. 
Frequently,  exhausted  witli  fatigue,  and  drip- 
ping with  perspiration,  they  threw  themselves 
upon  the  snow,  and  took  handfuls  of  it  to  al- 
lay their  parching  thirst.  At  one  place,  they 
even  stripped  off  their  coats  and  hung  them 
upon  the  bushes,  and  thus  lightly  clad,  pro- 
ceeded to  scramble  over  tliese  eternal  snows. 
As  they  ascended  still  higher,  there  were  cool 
breezes  that  refreshed  and  braced  them,  and 
springing  with  new  ardor  to  their  task,  they 
at  length  attained  the  summit. 

Here  a  scene  burst  upon  tlie  view  of  Captain 
Bonneville,  that  for  a  time  astonished  and  over- 
vt'helmed  him  with  its  immensity.  He  .stood,  in 
fact,  upon  that  dividing  ridge  wliicli  Indians  re- 
gard as  the  crest  of  the  world  ;  and  on  each  side 
of  wliich,  the  landscape  may  be  said  to  decline 
to  the  two  cardinal  oceans  of  the  globe. 
Whichever  way  he  turned  his  eye,  it  was  con- 
founded by  the  vastness  and  variety  of  oiyects. 
Beneath  him,  the  Rocky  Mountains  seemed  to 
open  all  their  secret  recesses :  deep,  .solemn 
valleys  ;  treasured  lakes  ;  dreary  passes  ;  rug- 
ged defiles,  and  foaming  torrents  ;  while  beyond 
their  savage  precincts,  the  eye  was  lost  in  an 


Sublime  iprospcct  279 


almost  immeasurable  landscape  ;  stretching  on 
every  side  into  dim  and  hazy  distance,  like 
the  expanse  of  a  summer's  sea.  Whichever 
way  hi  looked,  he  beheld  vast  plains  glinnner- 
ing  with  reflected  sunshine  ;  mighty  streams 
wandering  on  their  shining  course  toward 
either  ocean,  and  snowy  mcmntains,  chain  be- 
yond chain,  and  peak  beyond  peak,  till  thej' 
melted  like  clouds  into  the  horizon.  For  a 
time,  the  Indian  iuble  seemed  realized  :  he  had 
attained  that  height  from  which  the  Blackfoot 
warrior  after  death,  first  catches  a  view  of  the 
land  of  souls,  and  beholds  the  happy  hunting 
grounds  spread  out  below  him,  brightening 
with  the  aljodes  of  the  free  and  generous 
spirits.  The  captain  stood  for  a  long  while 
gazing  upon  this  scene,  lo.st  in  a  crowd  of  vague 
and  indefinite  ideas  and  sensations.  A  long- 
drawn  inspiration  at  length  relieved  him  from 
this  enthrallment  of  the  mind,  and  he  began 
to  analyz»_  the  parts  of  this  vast  panorama.  A 
simple  enumeration  of  a  few  of  its  features, 
may  give  some  idea  of  its  collective  grandeur 
and  magnificence. 

The  peak  on  wliich  the  captain  had  taken 
his  .stand,  connnanded  the  whole  Wind  River 
chain  ;  which,  in  fact,  may  rather  be  consid- 
ered one  immen.se  mountain,  broken  into 
snowy  peaks  and  lateral  spurs,   and   .seamed 


-».>^" 


P 


li 


Ji3 


(v 


^     I 


.iSd^. 


.^*' 


i! 


Ill 


I 


V/     ?|r^-7^=sp: 


'  M, 


'It 


h\' 


with  narrow  valleys.  Some  of  these  valleys 
glittered  with  silver  lakes  and  gushing  streams  ; 
the  fountain  head,  as  it  were,  of  the  mighty 
tributaries  to  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans. 
Beyond  the  snowj'  peaks,  to  the  south,  and  far, 
far  below  the  mountain  range,  the  gentle  river, 
called  the  Sweet  Water,  was  seen  pursuing  its 
tranquil  way  through  the  rugged  regions  of  the 
Black  Hills.  In  the  east,  the  head-waters  of 
Wind  River  wandered  through  a  plain,  until, 
mingling  in  one  powerful  current,  they  forced 
their  way  through  the  range  of  Horn  Moun- 
tains, and  were  lost  to  view.  To  the  north,  were 
caught  glimpses  of  the  upper  streams  of  the 
Yellowstone,  that  great  tributary  of  the  Mis- 
souri. In  another  direction  were  to  be  .seen  some 
of  the  sources  of  the  Oregon,  or  Columbia, 
flowing  to  the  northwest,  past  those  towering 
landmarks  the  three  Tetons,  and  pouring  down 
into  the  great  lava  plain  ;  while,  almost  at 
the  captain's  feet,  the  Green  River,  or  Colorado 
of  the  West,  set  forth  on  its  wandering  pilgrim- 
age to  the  Gulf  cf  California  ;  at  fir.st  a  mere 
mountain  torrent,  da.shing  northward  over  crag 
and  precipice,  in  a  succession  of  cascades,  and 
tumbling  into  the  plain,  where,  expanding  into 
an  ample  river,  it  circled  away  to  the  south, 
and  after  alternately  .shining  out  and  di.sappear- 
ing  in  the  mazes  of  the  vast  landscape,  was 


w"';  -V. 


1 


[^ 


vA 


\/^l 


AW) 


finally  lost  in  a  horizon  of  mountains.  The  day 
was  calm  and  cloudless,  and  the  atmosphere  so 
pure  that  objects  were  discernible  at  an  aston- 
ishing distance.  The  whole  of  this  immense 
area  was  inclosed  by  an  outer  range  of  shadowy 
peaks,  some  of  them  faintly  marked  on  the 
horizon,  which  seemed  to  wall  it  in  from  the 
rest  of  the  earth. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  Captain  Bonneville 
had  no  instruments  with  him  with  which  to 
ascertain  the  altitude  of  this  peak.  He  gives 
it  as  his  opinion,  that  it  is  the  loftiest  point  of 
the  North  American  continent  ;  but  of  this  we 
have  no  .satisfactory  proof.  It  is  certain  that 
the  Rocky  Mountains  are  of  an  altitude  vastly 
superior  to  what  was  frrmerh'  supposed.  We 
rather  incline  to  the  opinion  that  the  highest 
peak  is  further  to  the  northward,  and  is  the 
same  measured  by  Mr.  Thompson,  sur\eyor 
to  the  Northwest  Company  ;  who,  by  the  joint 
means  of  the  barometer  and  trigonometric 
measurement,  a.scertaincd  it  to  be  twenty-five 
thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  ;  an 
elevation  only  inferior  to  that  of  the  Hima- 
layas.* 

For  a  long  time,  Captain  Bonneville  remained 
gazing  around  him  with  wonder  and  enthusi- 

*  See  the  letter  of  Professor  Renwick,  in  the  ap- 
pendix to  Astoria. 


O 


<l 


r 


,1 


N')J 


'1 


'l  , 

1 

1'          ■: 

f         ,; 

r 

!l    1': 

if 

li ' 

.1 

V 

'h    ■■ 

1 

! 

l!^ 


:^ 


•y^f. 


282 


:fBonncvillc'd  BDvcnturcd 


asm  ;  at  length  the  chill  and  wintry  winds, 
whirling  about  the  snow-clad  height,  admon- 
ished him  to  descend.  He  soon  regained  the 
spot  where  he  and  his  companions  had  thrown 
off  their  coats,  which  were  now  gladly  resumed, 
and,  retracing  their  course  down  the  peak, 
they  safely  rejoined  their  companions  on  the 
border  of  the  lake. 

Notwithstanding  the  savage  and  almost  in- 
accessible nature  of  these  mountains,  they  have 
their  inhabitants.  As  one  of  the  party  was 
out  hunting,  he  came  upon  the  solitary  track 
of  a  man,  in  a  lonely  valley.  Following  it  up, 
he  reached  the  brow  of  a  cliff,  whence  he  be- 
held three  savages  running  across  the  valley 
below  him.  He  fired  his  gun  to  call  their  at- 
tention, hopii:^  to  induce  tiiem  to  turn  back. 
They  only  fled  the  faster,  and  disappeared 
among  the  rocks.  The  hunter  returned  and 
reported  what  he  had  seen.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville at  once  concluded  tliat  the.se  belonged  to 
a  kind  of  hermit  race,  scanty  in  tuunber,  that 
inhabit  the  highest  and  most  inaccessible  fast- 
nesses. They  speak  the  Shoshonie  language, 
and  probabl}-  are  offsets  from  that  tribe, 
though  they  have  ptculiarities  of  their  own, 
which  distinguish  them  from  all  other  Indians. 
They  are  miserably  poor ;  own  no  horses,  and 
are  destitute  of  every  convenience  to  be  de- 


±u 


o'-a 


i} 


,^>:i. 


m>: 


»^\ 


Ibcrmit  Undiane 


283 


rived  from  an  intercourse  will;  the  whites. 
Their  weapons  are  bows  and  stone-pointed 
arrows,  with  which  they  hunt  the  deer,  the 
elk,  and  the  mountain  sheep.  They  are  to  be 
found  scattered  aboat  the  countries  of  the 
Shoshonie,  Flathead,  Crow,  and  Blackfeet 
tribes  ;  but  their  residences  are  always  in 
lonely  places,  and  the  clefts  of  the  rocks. 

Their  footsteps  are  often  .seen  by  the  trap- 
pers in  the  high  and  .solitary  valleys  among 
the  mountains,  and  the  smokes  of  their  fires 
descried  among  the  precipices,  but  they  them- 
.selves  are  rarely  met  with  and  still  more  rarely 
brought  to  a  parley,  so  great  is  their  .shyness, 
and  their  dread  of  .strangers. 

As  their  peverty  offers  no  temptation  to  the 
marauder,  and  as  they  are  inoffensive  in  their 
habits,  they  are  never  tlie  objects  of  warfare  : 
should  one  of  them,  however,  fall  into  the 
hands  t)f  a  war  party,  he  is  sure  to  be  made  a 
.sacrifice,  for  the  sake  of  that  savage  trophy,  a 
.scalp,  and  that  barbarous  ceremony,  a  scalp 
dance.  Tho.se  forlorn  beings,  forming  a  mere 
link  between  human  nature  and  the  brute, 
have  been  looked  down  upon  with  pity  and  con- 
tempt by  the  Creole  trappers,  who  have  gix'en 
them  the  appellation  oUfsdii^nt'sde pitit\  or  "  the 
objects  of  pity."  They  appear  more  worthy  to 
be  called  the  wild  men  of  the  mountains. 


0.©v' 


\:- 


, 


!!'! 


*j*«»^ 


--—.Esaarin'? 


'h 


, ' y •      m^ -T/'J^m^  '    <"m 


i     I 


"^ 


t 


Ml 


ii 


-I'l  ^  ■  ■ 


II 


Cbapter  ff OT . 

A  Retrograde  Move — Channel  of  a  Mountain  Torrent 
— Alpine  Scenery — Cascades — Beaver  Valleys — Bea- 
▼crs  at  Work — Their  Architecture — Their  Modes  of 
Felling  Trees— Mode  of  Trapping  Beaver — Contests 
of  Skill— A  Beaver  "Up  to  Trap"— Arrival  at  the 
Green  River  Caches. 

THK  view  from  the  snowy  peak  of  the 
Wind  River  Mountain,  while  it  had 
excited  Captain  Bonneville's  enthtisi- 
asm,  had  satisfied  him  that  it  would  be  use- 
less to  force  a  passage  westward,  through 
multiplying  barriers  of  cliffs  and  precipices. 
Turning  his  face  eastward,  therefore,  he  endea- 
vored to  regain  the  plains,  intending  to  make  the 
circuit  round  the  southern  point  of  the  moun- 
tain. To  descend,  and  to  extricate  himself 
from  the  heart  of  this  rock-piled  wilderness, 
was  almost  as  difficult  as  to  penetrate  it.  Tak- 
ing his  course  down  the  ravine  of  a  tumbling 
stream,    the    commencement   of   some    future 

284 


alpine  Scenecs 


river,  he  descended  from  rock  to  rock,  and  shelf 
to  shelf,  between  stupendous  cliffs  and  beetling 
crags,  that  sprang  up  to  the  sky.  Often  he 
had  to  cross  and  recross  the  rushing  torrent, 
as  it  wound  foaming  and  roaring  down  its 
broken  channel,  or  was  walled  by  perpendicular 
precipices  •  and  imminent  was  the  hazard  of 
breaking  the  legs  of  the  horses  in  the  clefts 
and  fissures  of  slippery  rocks.  The  whole 
scenery  of  this  deep  ravine  was  of  Alpine 
wildness  and  sublimity.  Sometimes  the  trav- 
ellers passed  beneath  cascades  which  pitched 
from  such  lofty  heights,  that  the  water  fell 
into  the  stream  like  heavj'  rain.  In  other 
places,  torrents  came  tumbling  from  crag  to 
crag,  dashing  into  foam  and  spray,  and  mak- 
ing tremendous  din  and  uproar. 

On  the  second  day  of  their  descent,  the 
travellers,  having  got  beyond  the  steepest  pitch 
of  the  mountains,  came  to  where  the  deep  and 
rugged  ravine  began  occasionally  to  expand 
into  small  levels  or  valleys,  and  the  stream  to 
assume  for  short  intervals  a  more  peaceful 
character.  Here,  not  merely  the  river  itself, 
but  every  rivulet  flowing  into  it,  was  dammed 
up  by  conununities  of  industrious  beavers,  so 
as  to  inundate  the  neighborhood,  and  make 
continual  swamps. 

During  a  midday  halt  in  one  of  these  beaver 


S^A 


i 


tn 


'J- 


'.t     "I" 


.( 


'Ill 


r^fr^s^jo  ^  ^yi  j!^-yl 


<c: 


^ 


\r 


^. 


286 


IBonncville'B  Bdvcntures 


valleys,  Captain  Bonneville  left  his  companions, 
and  strolled  down  the  course  of  the  stream  to 
reconnoitre.  He  had  not  proceeded  far,  when 
he  came  to  a  beaver  pond,  and  caught  a  glimpse 
of  one  of  its  painstaking  ivihabi.ants  busily 
at  work  upon  the  da'  •  The  curiosity  of  the 
captain  was  aroused.  /-el  .'1  the  mode  of 
operating  of  this  fa.  iined  architect;  he 
moved  forward,  therefore,  wit;;  ae  utmost 
cautitni.  parting  the  branches  of  the  water 
willows  without  making  any  noise,  until  hav- 
ing attained  a  position  commanding  a  view  of 
the  whole  pond,  he  stretched  himself  flat  on 
the  ground,  and  watched  the  solitary  workman. 
In  a  little  while,  three  others  appeared  at  the 
head  of  the  dam,  bringing  sticks  and  bushes. 
With  these  they  proceeded  directly  to  the  bar- 
rier, which  Captain  Bonneville  perceived  was 
in  need  of  repair.  Having  deposited  their 
loads  upon  the  broken  part,  they  dived  into 
the  water,  and  shorth-  reappeared  at  the  sur- 
face. Kach  now  bnmght  a  (juantity  of  mud, 
with  which  he  would  plaster  tlie  sticks  and 
bushes  just  deposited.  This  kind  of  masonry 
was  continued  for  some  time,  repeated  supplies 
of  wood  and  mud  being  brought,  and  treated 
in  the  same  manner.  This  done,  the  indus- 
trious beavers  indulged  in  a  little  recreation, 
chasing  each   other  about  the  pond,   dodging 


A) 


d 


^ 


!    -I 


3ini^^y\ 


.\'^~S"'s  J/  j^  >  xt^^  ^Ti'si'^u 


Xeavcte  at  TSaorFt 


987 


and  whisking  about  on  the  surface,  or  diving 
to  the  bottom  ;  r.»id  in  their  frohc,  often  slap- 
ping their  tails  on  the  water  with  a  loud  clack- 
ing sound.  While  they  were  thus  amusing 
themselves,  another  of  the  fraternity  made  his 
appearance,  and  looked  gravely  on  their  sports 
for  some  time,  without  offering  to  join  in  them. 
He  then  climbed  the  bank  close  to  where  the 
captain  was  concealed,  and,  rearing  himself  on 
his  hind-quarters,  in  a  sitting  position,  put  his 
fore-paws  against  a  young  pine-tree,  and 
began  to  cut  the  bark  with  his  teeth.  At 
times  he  would  tear  off"  a  small  piece,  and 
holding  it  between  his  paws,  and  retaining  his 
sedentarj-  position,  would  feed  himself  with  it, 
after  the  fashion  of  a  monkey.  The  object  of 
the  beaver,  however,  was  evidently  to  cut 
down  the  tree  ;  and  he  was  proceeding  with 
his  work,  when  he  was  alarmed  by  the  ap- 
proach of  Captain  Bonneville's  men,  who,  feel- 
ing anxious  at  the  protracted  absence  of  their 
leader,  were  coming  in  search  of  him.  At  the 
sound  of  their  voices,  all  the  beavers,  busj'  as 
well  as  idle,  dived  at  once  beneath  the  surface, 
and  were  no  more  to  be  seen.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville regretted  this  interruption.  He  had  heard 
much  of  the  sagacity  of  the  beaver  in  cutting 
down  trees,  in  which,  it  is  said,  they  manage 
to  make  them  fall  into  the  water,  and  in  such 


^ 


V 


'\\,, 


^y^^lfm-n 


l:'i!t\;ti< 


1  ' ' 


I 

II 


1 

\ 

! 

1 

« 

1  - 
i 

*fi£i 


^7- 


irr 


111     i 


I 


li 


ii 


I! 


!     ) 


i       I    '. 


n 


BonnefiUe's  BOvcnturcs 


a  position  and  direction  as  may  be  most  favor- 
able for  conveyance  to  the  desired  point.  In 
the  present  instance,  the  tree  was  a  tall  straight 
pine,  and  as  it  grew  perpendicularly,  and  there 
was  not  a  breath  of  air  stirring,  the  beaver 
could  have  felled  it  in  any  direction  he  pleased, 
if  really  capable  of  exercising  a  discretion  in 
the  matter.  He  was  evidently  engaged  in 
"belting"  the  tree,  and  his  first  incision  had 
been  on  the  side  nearest  to  the  water. 

Captain  Bonneville,  however,  discredits,  on 
the  whole,  the  alleged  sagacity  of  the  beaver 
in  this  particular,  and  thinks  the  animal  has 
no  other  aim  than  to  get  the  tree  down,  with- 
out any  of  the  subtle  calculation  as  to  its  mode 
or  directions  of  falling.  This  attribute,  he 
thinks,  has  been  ascribed  to  them  from  the 
circumstance,  that  most  trees  growing  near 
water-courses,  either  lean  bodily  towards  the 
stream,  or  stretch  their  largest  limbs  in  that 
direction,  to  benefit  by  the  space,  the  light, 
and  the  air  to  be  found  there.  The  beaver, 
of  course,  attacks  those  trees  which  are  nearest 
at  hand,  and  on  the  banks  of  the  stream  or 
pond.  He  makes  incisions  round  them,  or,  in 
technical  phrase,  belts  them  with  his  teeth, 
and  when  they  fall,  they  naturally  take  the 
direction  in  which  their  trunks  or  branches 
preponderate. 


m 


^v 


i/>' 


ir^ 


} 


Sa^acits  of  tbc  JBeavcr 


•;^->. 


"I  have  often,"  says  Captain  Botnieville,  £^ 
"seen  trees  measuring  eighteen  inches  in  (Ham- 
eter,  at  the  places  where  they  had  been  cut 
through  by  the  beaver,  but  they  lay  in  all 
directions,  and  often  very  inconveniently  for 
the  after  purposes  of  the  animal.  In  fact,  so 
little  ingenuity  do  they  at  times  display  in  this 
particular,  that  at  one  of  our  camps  on  Snake 
River,  a  beaver  was  found  with  his  head 
wedged  into  the  cut  which  he  had  made,  the 
tree  having  fallen  upon  him  and  held  him  i)ris- 
oner  until  he  died." 

Great  choice,  according  to  the  captain,  is 
certainly  displayed  by  the  beaver  in  selecting 
the  wood  which  is  to  furnish  bark  for  winter 
provision.  The  whole  beav;r  household,  old 
and  young,  set  out  ujion  t!.is  busir.ess,  and 
will  often  make  long  journey:;  before  they  are 
suited.  Sometimes  they  cut  down  trees  of  the 
largest  size  and  then  cull  t!iJ  branches,  the 
bark  of  which  is  most  to  their  taste.  These 
they  cut  into  lengths  of  about  three  feet,  con- 
vey them  to  the  water,  and  float  them  to  their 
lodges,  where  they  are  :;tored  away  for  winter. 
They  are  studious  of  cleatdiness  and  comfort 
in  their  lodges,  and  after  their  repasts,  will 
carry  out  the  .sticks  from  which  thej-  have 
eaten  the  bark,  and  throw  them  into  the  cur- 
rent beyond    the   barrier.     They    are  jealous, 


-19 


.n 


r:' 


If, 
i!  I 


l.f 


)! 


It: 


■I,i'l ! 


■k 


/'> 


fe 


/r^y 


V-^s^ 


WiCl^^ 


'^^■ 


2(/j  JBonncville'd  BDvcnturcd 

too,  of  their  territories,  and  extremely  pugna- 
cious, never  permitting  a  strange  beaver  to 
enter  their  premises,  and  often  fighting  with 
such  virulence  as  almost  to  tear  each  other  to 
pieces.  In  the  spring,  which  is  the  breeding 
season,  the  male  leaves  the  female  at  home, 
and  sets  off  on  a  tour  of  pleasure,  rambling 
often  to  a  great  distance,  recreating  himself 
in  every  clear  and  quiet  expanse  of  water  cm 
his  way,  and  climbing  the  banks  occasionally 
to  feast  upon  the  tender  sprouts  of  the  young 
willow^.  As  sunnner  advances,  he  gives  up 
his  bachelor  rambles,  and  bethinking  himself 
of  housekeeping  duties,  returns  home  to  his 
mate  and  his  new  progeny,  and  marshals  them 
all  for  the  foraging  expedition  in  quest  of 
winter  prov-isions. 

After  having  shown  the  public  spirit  of  this 
praiseworthy  little  animal  as  a  member  of  a 
community,  and  his  amiable  and  exemplary 
conduct  as  the  father  of  a  family,  we  grieve 
to  record  the  perils  with  which  he  is  environed, 
and  the  snares  set  for  him  and  his  painstaking 
household. 

Practice,  says  Captain  Bonneville,  has  given 
such  a  quickness  of  eye  to  the  experienced  trap- 
per in  all  that  relates  to  his  pursuit,  that  he 
can  detect  the  slightest  sign  of  beaver,  however 
wild ;    and  although  the  lodge  may   be  con- 


■-^ 


/■! 


Ito^e  of  CTrapptiig  Xeavet 


cealed  by  close  thickets  and  overhanging  wil- 
lows, he  can  generally,  at  a  single  glance, 
make  an  accurate  guess  at  the  number  of  its 
inmates.  He  now  goes  to  work  to  set  his 
trap ;  planting  it  upon  the  shore,  in  some 
chosen  place,  two  or  three  inches  below  the 
surface  of  the  water,  and  secures  it  by  a  chain 
to  a  pole  set  deep  in  the  mud.  A  small  twig 
is  then  stripped  of  its  bark,  and  one  end  is 
dipped  in  the  "medicine,"  as  the  trappers 
term  the  peculiar  bait  which  they  employ. 
This  end  of  the  stick  rises  about  four  inches 
above  the  surface  of  the  water,  the  other  end 
is  planted  between  the  jaws  of  the  trap.  The 
beaver,  possessing  an  acute  sense  of  smell,  is 
soon  attracted  by  the  odor  of  the  bait.  As  he 
raises  his  nose  towards  it.  his  foot  is  caught 
in  the  trap.  In  his  fright  he  throws  a  somer- 
set into  the  deep  water.  The  trap,  being  fa.s- 
tetied  to  the  pole,  resists  all  his  efforts  to  drag 
it  to  the  .shore ;  tiie  chain  by  which  it  is  fas- 
tened defies  his  teeth  ;  he  struggles  for  a  time, 
and  at  length  vsinks  to  the  bottom  and  is 
drowned. 

Upon  rocky  bottoms,  where  it  is  not  possi- 
ble to  plant  the  pole,  it  is  thrown  into  the 
stream.  The  beaver,  when  entrapped,  often 
gets  fastened  by  the  chain  to  sunken  logs  or 
floating  timber  ;  if  he  gets  to  shore,  he  is  en- 


. ' 


f     :! 


U' 


'i, 


TTp 


1 

i 


r.i 


h 


$  ?' 


ill ; 


i    i  't: 


' '     ' 

!   I 


I  5 


Ml 

i  1 


tangled  in  the  thickets  of  brook  willows.  In 
such  cases,  however,  it  costs  the  trapper  dili- 
gent search,  and  sometimes  a  bout  at  swim- 
ming, before  he  finds  his  game. 

Occasionally  it  hajipens  that  several  mem- 
bers of  a  beaver  family  are  trapped  in  succes- 
sion. The  survivors  then  become  extremely 
shy,  and  can  scarcely  be  "  b ••ought  to  medi- 
cine," to  use  the  trapper's  phrase  for  "  taking 
the  bait."  In  such  case,  the  trapper  gives  up 
the  use  of  the  bait,  and  conceals  his  traps  in 
the  usual  paths  and  crossing-places  of  the 
household.  The  beaver  now  being  completely 
"up  to  trap,"  approaches  them  cautiously. 
End  springs  them  ingeniously  with  a  stick. 
At  other  times,  he  turns  the  traps  bottom 
iipwards,  by  the  .same  means,  and  occasionally 
even  drags  them  to  the  barrier  and  conceals 
them  in  the  mid.  The  trapper,  now  gives  up 
the  contest  of  ingenuity,  and  shouldering  his 
traps,  marches  off,  admitting  that  he  is  not 
yet  "  up  to  beaver," 

On  the  day  following  Captain  IJonneville's 
supervision  of  the  industrious  and  frolicsome 
community  of  beavers,  of  which  he  has  given 
.so  edifying  an  account,  he  succeeded  in  ex- 
tricating himself  from  the  Wind  River  Moun- 
tains, and  regaining  the  plain  to  the  ea.stward, 
made  a  great  bend  to  the  south,  so  as  to  go 


mM 


'V, 


t-Tv. 


Q- 


mt 


I 


round  the  bases  of  the  mountains,  and  arrived 
without  further  incident  of  importance,  at  the 
old  place  of  rendezvous  in  Green  River  Valley, 
on  the  17th  of  September. 

He  found  tlie  rar/irs,  in  whicli  lie  had  de- 
posited his  superfluous  goods  and  equipments, 
all  safe,  and  having  opened  and  taken  from 
them  the  necessary  supplies,  he  closed  them 
again  ;  taking  care  to  obliterate  all  traces  that 
might  betray  them  to  the  keen  eyes  of  InditJi 
marauders. 


I), 


c. 


-V    C  ^-O^^;     ..^'^'^^      fT 


,  '    'J 


''"Nii^'.' 


vTT 


\m 


i  \ 


'  ""V^ 


I 


III 


H 


\:'\ ! 


£y\)  Chapter  JiDHIT. 

Route  Towards  Wind  River — Dangerous  Neighbor- 
hood— Alanus  and  Precautions — A  Sham  Encamp- 
nient — Apparition  of  an  Indian  Spy — Midnight 
Move -A  Mountain  Defile— The  Wind  River  Valley 
— Tracking  a  Tarty — Deserted  Camps — Symptoms 
of  Crows — Meeting  of  Comrades — A  Trapper  En- 
trapped— Crow  Pleasantry — Crow  Spies — A  De- 
campment— Return  to  dreen  River  Valley — Meet- 
ing with  Fitzpatrick's  Parly — Their  Adventures 
among  the  Crows — Orthodox  Crows. 

OX  the  iStli  of  vSeptember,  Captain  Bonne- 
ville and  his  three  companions  set  out, 
])right  and  early,  to  rejoin  the  main 
party  from  which  they  had  parted  on  Wind 
River.  Their  route  lay  up  the  Green  River 
Valley,  with  that  stream  on  their  ri.nht  hand, 
and  beyond  it,  the  range  of  Wind  River  Moun- 
tains. At  tlie  head  of  the  valley,  they  were  to 
o^^4>  P''^^  through  a  defde  which  would  bring  them 
out  beyond  the  northern  end  of  these  mountains, 


/^l 


^.j 


i^ 


■VW^^ 


"^^^■:JM 


^.4 


*'A  , 


Blarms  and  precautions 


to  the  head  of  Wind  River  ;  where  they  ex- 
pected to  meet  the  main  party,  according  to 
arrangement. 

We  have  already  adverted  to  the  dangerous 
nature  of  this  neighborhood,  infested  by  roving 
bands  of  Crows  and  Blackfeet  ;  to  whom  the 
numerous  defiles  and  passes  of  the  country 
aflford  capital  places  for  anilnish  and  surprise. 
The  travellers,  therefore,  kept  a  vigilant  eye 
upon  everything  that  might  give  intimation  of 
lurking  danger. 

About  two  hours  after  midday,  as  they 
reached  the  summit  of  a  hill,  they  discovered 
buffalo  on  the  plain  below,  running  in  every 
direction.  One  of  the  men,  too,  fancied  he 
heard  the  report  of  a  gun.  It  was  concluded, 
therefore,  that  there  was  some  party  of  Indians 
below,  hunting  buflfalo. 

Tue  horses  were  immediately  concealed  in  a 
riarrow  ravine  ;  and  the  captain,  mounting  an 
eminence,  but  concealing  himself  from  view, 
reconnoitred  the  whole  neighborhood  with  a 
telescope.  Not  an  Indian  was  to  be  seen  ;  so, 
after  hailing  about  an  h')ur,  he  resumed  Ills 
journey.  Convinced,  however,  tliat  lie  was  in 
a  dangerous  neighl)orhoo<i  he  advanced  with 
the  utmost  caution  ;  windiug  his  way  througli 
hollows  and  ravines,  and  avoiding,  as  much  as 
possible,  any  open  tract,  or  rising  gnnnid,  that 


">^- 


'rtT\^?S^  *'*'"""*'  *■ 


■"•4^-- 


"*j*r 


I,' 


i   i 


iF 


u  i 


'  h 


V 


1^,1, 


"\_i>.^'aj; 


2'j6 


JBonnevillc'e  SOventuced 


might  betray  his  little  party  to  the  watchful 
eye  of  an  Indian  scout. 

Arriving,  at  length,  at  the  edge  of  the  open 
meadow-land  bordering  on  the  river,  he  again 
ol)served  the  buffalo,  as  far  as  he  could  see, 
scampering  in  great  alarm.  Once  more  con- 
cealing tile  horses,  he  and  his  companions  re- 
mained for  a  long  time  watching  the  various 
groups  of  the  animals,  as  each  caught  the  panic 
and  started  ofT;  but  they  sought  in  vain  to  dis- 
cover the  cause. 

They  were  now  about  to  enter  the  mountain 
defile,  at  the  head  of  Green  River  Valley,  where 
they  might  be  waylaid  and  attacked  ;  they, 
therefore,  arranged  the  packs  on  their  horses, 
in  the  manner  most  secure  and  convenient  for 
sudden  flight,  sliould  such  be  necessary.  This 
done,  tliej-  again  .set  forward,  keeping  the  most 
anxious  lookout  in  every  direction. 

It  was  now  drawing  towards  evening  ;  l)ut 
they  could  not  think  of  encamping  for  the  night, 
in  a  place  .so  full  of  danger.  Captain  Bonneville, 
therefore,  determined  to  halt  about  si'uset. 
kindle  a  fire,  as  if  for  encampment,  to  cook  ■<,):■.: 
eat  supper  ;  but,  as  soon  as  it  was  sufllcient*; 
dark,  to  make  a  rapid  move  for  the  summit  of 
the  mountain,  and  seek  .some  .secluded  .spot 
for  tluir  night's  lodgings. 

Accordingly,  as  the  sun  went  down,  the  little 


llh 


^} 


B  Sbam  £ncampment 


r>:. 


297 


party  came  to  a  halt,  made  a  large  fire,  spitted 
their  buffalo  meat  on  wooden  sticks,  and,  when 
sufficiently  roasted,  planted  the  savory  viands 
before  them  ;  cutting  off  huge  slices  with  their 
hunting  knivcb,  and  supping  with  a  hunter's 
appetite.  The  light  of  their  fire  would  not 
fail,  as  they  knew,  to  attract  the  attention  of 
any  Indian  horde  in  the  neighborhood  ;  but 
they  trusted  to  be  off  aiul  away,  before  any 
prowlers  could  reach  the  place.  While  they 
were  supping  thus  hastih-,  however,  one  of 
their  party  suddenly  started  up,  and  shouted 
"  Indians  !  "  All  were  instantly  on  their  feet, 
with  their  rifles  in  their  hands  ;  but  could  see 
no  enemy.  The  man,  however,  declared  that 
he  had  seen  an  Indian  advancing,  cautiously', 
along  the  trail  which  they  had  made  in  coming 
to  the  encampment ;  who,  the  moment  he  was 
perceived,  had  thrown  himself  on  tlie  ground, 
and  disappeared.  He  urged  Captain  Bonneville 
instantly  to  decamp.  The  captain,  however, 
took  the  matter  more  coolly.  The  single  fact, 
that  the  Indian  had  endeavored  to  hide  him- 
self, convinced  him  that  he  was  not  one  of  a 
party,  on  the  advance  to  make  an  attack.  He 
was,  probably,  some  scout,  who  had  followed 
up  their  trail,  until  he  came  in  sight  of  their 
fire.  He  would,  in  such  case,  return,  and  re- 
port  what   he   had   seen   to   his  companions. 


// 


C    .;_:• 


■  ^v^ 


'A 


'  'jm^'-f^-ltxi  tm- 


rl:l 


4 


i   I 


298 


JBonneville'8  BDve;  turcg 


t 


These,  supposing  the  white  men  had  encamped 
for  the  night,  would  keep  aloof  until  very  late, 
when  all  should  be  asleep.  They  would  then, 
according  to  Indian  tactics,  make  their  stealthy 
approaches,  and  place  themselves  in  ambush 
\  around,  preparatory  to  their  attack,  at  the 
usual  hour  of  daylight. 

Such  was  Captain  Bonneville's  conclusion  ; 
in  consequence  of  which,  he  counselled  his 
men  to  keen  perfectly  quiet,  and  act  as  if  free 
from  all  alarm,  until  the  proper  time  arrived 
for  a  move.  They,  accordingly,  continued  their 
repast  witli  pretendeil  appetite  and  jollity  ;  and 
then  trimmed  and  replenished  their  fire,  as  if 
for  a  bivouac.  As  soon,  however,  as  the  night 
had  completely  set  in,  they  left  their  fire  blaz- 
ing ;  walked  quietly  among  the  willows,  and 
then  leaping  into  their  saddles,  made  off  as 
noiselessly  as  possible.  In  pruportion  as  they 
left  the  point  of  danger  Ijehiiid  them,  they  re- 
laxed in  tlieir  rigid  and  ri'ixious  taciturnity, 
and  began  to  joke  at  the  expense  of  their 
enemy  ;  whom  they  pictured  to  themselves 
mousing  in  tli'.-  neigliborhood  (n  their  deserted 
fire,  waiting  for  the  proper  time  of  attack,  and 
preparing  for  a  grand  disappointment. 

About  midnight,  feeling  satisfied  that  they 
QIjl      Jiad  gained  a  secur.:  distance,  they  po.'^ted  one 
of  their  number  \.o   keep   watch,  in   case  the 


•^V  ^ 


fV 


>C 


\: 


^Ur^ 


III: 


^J> 


I'M 


J-. 


^, 


<3(t> ind  tbe  InDians  tbe  Slip 


299 


enemy  should  follow  on  the  trail,  and  then, 
turning  abruptly  into  a  dense  and  matted 
thicket  of  willows,  halted  for  the  night  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountain,  instead  of  r..aking  for 
the  sununit,  as  they  had  originally  intended. 

A  trapper  in  the  wilderness,  like  a  sailor  on 
the  ocean,  snatches  morsels  of  enjoyment  in 
the  midst  of  trouble,  and  sleeps  soundly  when 
surrounded  by  danger.  The  little  party  now 
made  their  arrangements  for  sleep  with  perfect 
calmness  ;  they  did  not  venture  to  make  a  fire 
and  cook,  it  is  true,  though  generally  done  by 
hunters  whenever  they  come  to  a  halt,  and 
have  provisions.  They  comforted  themselves, 
however,  by  smoking  a  tranquil  pipe  ;  and 
then  calling  in  the  watch,  and  turning  loo.se 
the  horses,  .stretched  themselves  on  their  pal- 
lets, agreed  that  whoever  should  first  awake, 
should  rouse  the  rest,  and  in  a  little  while 
were  all  in  as  .sound  sleep  as  though  in  the 
midst  of  a  fortress. 

A  little  before  day,  they  were  all  on  the 
alert  ;  it  was  the  hour  for  Indmn  maraud.  A 
.sentinel  was  immediately  detached,  to  po,st 
himself  at  a  little  distance  on  their  trail,  and 
give  the  alarm,  should  he  see  or  hear  an 
enemy. 

With  the  first  l)link  of  dawn,  the  rest  .sought 
the   horses;  brought  them  to  J.he  camp,  and 


v>S 


/^ 


•,n 


h< 


llri  t 


f. 


H 


'  I'i  ■  I 


)-^ 


JBotincvillc'd  Bdvcnturcs 


tied  them  up,  iini^il  an  hour  after  sunrise  ; 
when,  the  sentinel  having  reported  that  all  was 
well,  they  sprang  once  more  into  their  saddles, 
and  pursued  the  most  covert  and  secret  paths 
up  the  mountain,  avoiding  the  direct  route. 

At  noon,  they  halted  and  made  a  hasty  re- 
past ;  and  then  bent  their  course  so  as  to  regain 
the  route  from  which  they  had  diverged.  They 
were  now  made  sensible  of  the  danger  from 
which  they  had  just  escaped.  There  were 
tracks  of  Indians  who  had  evidently  been  in 
pursuit  of  them  ;  but  had  recently  returned, 
baffled  in  their  search. 

Trusting  that  they  had  now  got  a  fair  start, 
and  could  not  be  overtaken  before  night,  even 
in  case  the  Indians  should  renew  the  cha.se, 
they  pushed  briskly  forward,  and  did  not  en- 
camp until  late  ;  when  they  cautiou.sly  con- 
cealed theuLselves  in  a  .secure  nook  of  the 
mountains. 

Without  any  further  alarm,  they  made  their 
way  to  the  head-waters  of  Wind  River,  and 
reached  the  i-cighborhood  in  which  they  had 
appointed  the  rendezvous  with  their  compan- 
ions. It  was  within  the  precincts  of  the  Crow 
country  :  the  Wind  River  Valley  being  one  of 
the  favorite  haunts  of  that  restless  tribe.  After 
much  searching,  Captain  Bonneville  came  upon 
a  trail  which  had  evidently  been  made  by  his 


In- 


MO. 


i:I^J 


K.^' 


anjietB  of  tbc  Captain 


301 


main  party.  It  was  so  old,  however,  that  he 
feared  his  people  might  have  left  the  neighbor- 
hood ;  driven  off,  perhaps,  by  some  of  those  war 
parties  which  were  on  the  prowl.  He  continued 
his  search  with  great  anxiety,  and  no  little  fa- 
tigue ;  for  his  horses  were  jaded,  and  almost 
crippled,  by  their  forced  marches  and  scram- 
blings  through  rocky  defiles. 

On  tlie  following  day,  about  noon,  Captain 
Bonneville  came  upon  a  deserted  camp  of  his 
people,  from  which  they  had,  evidently,  turned 
back  ;  but  he  could  find  no  signs  to  indicate 
whj'  they  had  done  so  ;  whether  they  had  met 
with  misfortune,  or  molestation,  or  in  what 
direction  they  had  gone.  lie  was  now,  more 
than  ever,  perplexed. 

On  the  following  day,  he  resumed  his  march 
with  increasing  anxiety.  The  feet  of  his 
horses  had  by  this  time  l)ecome  so  worn  and 
wounded  by  the  rocks,  ihat  he  had  to  make 
moccasins  for  them  of  buffalo  hide.  About 
noon,  he  came  to  another  deserted  camp  of 
his  men  ;  but  soon  after  lost  their  trail.  After 
great  search,  he  once  more  found  it,  turning  in 
a  southerly  direction  along  the  eastern  basis  of 
the  Wind  River  Mountains,  which  towered  to 
the  right.  He  n<jw  pushed  forward  *vith  all 
possible  speed,  in  hopes  of  overtaking  the 
party.     At  night,  he  slept  at   another  of  the 


^^4^^Ms 


1 


V 


■o^v/ 


ii 


I 

I 


ill 


"'•"'M  'I'^mv^^- 


f 


'I 


•1:1 


' 


.s^ 


r 


302 


JSonncville'e  Bdventuree 


camps,  from  which  they  had  but  recently  de- 
parted. When  the  day  dawned  sufficiently  to 
distinguish  objects,  he  perceived  the  danger 
that  must  be  dogging  the  heels  of  his  main 
party.  All  about  the  camp  were  traces  of  In- 
dians, who  must  have  been  prowling  about  it 
at  the  time  his  people  had  passed  the  night 
there  ;  and  who  must  .still  be  hovering  about 
tliem.  Convinced,  now,  that  the  main  party 
could  not  be  at  any  great  distance,  he  mounted 
a  .scout  on  the  best  horse,  and  set  him  forward 
to  overtake  them,  to  warn  them  of  their  dan- 
ger, and  to  order  them  to  halt,  mitil  he  .should 
rejoin  them. 

In  the  afternoon,  to  his  great  joy,  he  met  the 
.scout  returning,  with  six  comrades  from  the 
main  party,  leading  fresh  horses  for  his  accom- 
modation ;  and  on  the  following  day  (Septem- 
ber 25th),  all  hands  were  once  more  reunited, 
after  a  .separation  of  nearly  three  weeks.  Their 
meeting  was  hearty  and  joyous  ;  for  they  had 
both  experienced  dangers  and  perplexities. 

The  main  party,  in  pursuing  their  course  up 
the  Wind  River  Valley,  had  been  dogged  the 
whole  way  bj'  a  war  party  of  Crows.  In  one 
place,  they  had  been  fired  upon,  but  without 
injur}- ;  in  another  place,  one  of  their  horses 
hail  been  cut  loose,  and  carried  olT.  At  length, 
they   were   so   closely   beset,    that   they   were 


M 


im 


303 


ITbe  Crappcr  £ntrappeO 


obliged  to  make  a  retrograde  move,  lest  they 
should  be  surprised  and  overcome.  This  was 
*'•';  movement  which  had  caused  such  perplex- 
u,,  'o  Captain  Bonneville. 

The  whole  party  now  remained  encamped 
for  two  or  three  days,  to  give  repose  to  both 
men  and  horses.  Some  of  the  trappers,  how- 
ever, pursued  their  vocations  about  the  neigh- 
boring streams.  While  one  of  them  was  setting 
his  traps,  he  heard  the  tramp  of  horses,  and 
looking  up,  beheld  a  party  of  Crow  braves 
moving  along  at  no  great  distance,  with  a  con- 
siderable cavalcade.  The  trapper  hastened  to 
conceal  himself,  but  was  discerned  by  the  quick 
eye  of  the  .savages.  With  whoops  and  yells, 
they  dragged  him  from  his  hiding-place,  flour- 
ished over  his  head  their  tomahawks  and 
scalping-knives,  and  for  a  time,  the  poor  trap- 
per gave  himself  up  for  lost.  Fortunately,  the 
Crows  were  in  a  jocose,  rather  than  a  .sanguin- 
ary mood.  They  amused  them.selves  heartily, 
for  a  while,  at  the  expense  of  his  terrors  ;  and 
after  having  played  off  divers  Crow  pranks  and 
pleasantries,  suffered  him  to  depart  unharmed. 
It  is  true,  they  stripped  him  completely,  one 
taking  his  horse,  another  his  gun,  a  third  his 
traps,  a  fourth  his  blanket,  and  so  on,  through 
all  his  accoutrements,  and  even  his  clothing, 
until  he  was  stark  naked  :  but  then  they  gen- 


ill 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


V 


^ 


// 


:/. 


V  MP.x. 


U.. 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


■-IM 

^   1^ 


—    6" 


1.8 


U    III  1.6 


Photpgraphic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


;v 


4 


«b 


^^ 


o 


O^ 


'<^ 


33  WIST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER, NY.  MS80 

(716)  873-4S03 


0 


V  /..W 


f/i 


fe 


I      ! 


'       I 


.  Hi 


'h 


""'  If 


m  \ 


304 


^IBonneville's  Bdventurcs 


erously  made  him  a  present  of  an  old  tattered 
buffalo  robe,  and  dismissed  him,  with  many 
complimentary  speeches,  and  much  laughter. 
When  the  trapper  returned  to  the  camp,  in 
such  sorry  plight,  he  was  greeted  with  peals 
of  laughter  from  his  comrades,  and  seemed 
more  mortified  by  the  style  in  which  he  had 
been  dismissed,  than  rejoiced  at  escaping  with 
his  life.  A  circumstance  which  he  related  to 
Captain  Bonneville,  gave  some  insight  into  the 
cause  of  this  extreme  jocularity  on  the  part  of 
the  Crows.  They  had  evidently  had  a  run  of 
luck,  and,  like  winning  gamblers,  were  in 
high  good  humor.  Among  twenty-six  fine 
horses,  and  some  mules,  which  composed  their 
cavalcade,  the  trapper  recognized  a  number 
which  had  belonged  to  Fitzpatrick's  brigade, 
when  they  parted  company  on  the  Bighorn. 
It  was  supposed,  therefore,  that  these  vaga- 
bonds had  been  on  his  trail,  and  robbed  him  of 
part  of  his  cavalry. 

On  the  day  following  this  affair,  three  Crows 
came  into  Captain  Bonneville's  camp,  with  the 
most  easy,  innocent,  if  not  impudent  air  imag- 
inable ;  walking  about  with  that  imperturbable 
coolness  and  u'v..'  ncern,  in  which  the  Indian  ri- 
vals the  fine  geiicieman.  As  they  had  not  been 
of  the  set  which  stripped  the  trapper,  though 
evidently  of  the  same   band,  they  were   not 


■■^^ 


^'^ 


Zbxcc  Crow  6ue0td 

molested.  Indeed,  Captain  Bonneville  treated 
them  with  his  usual  kindness  and  hospitality  ; 
permitting  them  to  remain  all  day  in  the  camp 
and  even  to  pass  the  night  there.  At  the 
same  time,  however,  he  caused  a  strict  watch 
to  be  maintained  on  all  their  movements  ;  and 
at  night,  stationed  an  armed  sentinel  near 
them.  The  Crows  remonstrated  against  the 
latter  being  armed.  This  only  made  the  cap- 
tain suspect  them  to  be  spies,  who  meditated 
treachery ;  he  redoubled,  therefore,  his  pre- 
cautions. At  the  same  time,  he  assured  his 
guests,  that  while  they  were  perfectly  welcome 
to  the  shelter  and  comfort  of  his  camp,  yet, 
should  any  of  their  tribe  venture  to  approach 
during  the  night,  they  would  certainly  be  shot ; 
which  would  be  a  very  unfortunate  circum- 
stance, and  much  to  be  deplored.  To  the  lat- 
ter remark,  they  fully  assented ;  and  shortly 
afterward  commenced  a  wild  song,  or  chant, 
which  they  kept  up  for  :i  long  time,  and  in 
which,  they  very  probably  gave  their  friends, 
who  might  be  prowling  around  the  camp, 
notice  that  the  white  men  were  on  the  alert. 
The  night  passed  away  without  disturbance. 
In  the  morning  the  three  Crow  guests  were 
very  pressing  that  Captain  Bonneville  and  his 
party  should  accompany  them  to  their  camp, 
said  was  close  by.     Instead  of 


^^M^^^M^ 


II 


(t.^^-'D^ 


f  J)^^  ii 


'  Hi 

'  'fi 


I'l! 


1 

I 

?  'i 

i 
■  ''p 

M.f 

il 

if' 

1 

■■^•-^ 


mi? 


JSonneville's  BDventures 


accepting  their  invitation,  Captain  Bonneville 
took  his  departure  with  all  possible  dispatch, 
eager  to  be  out  of  the  vicinity  of  such  a  pirati- 
cal horde ;  nor  did  he  relax  the  diligence  of 
his  march,  until,  on  the  second  day,  he  reached 
the  banks  of  the  Sweet  Water,  beyond  the 
limits  of  the  Crow  country,  and  a  heavy  fall  of 
snow  had  obliterated  all  traces  of  his  course. 

He  now  continued  on  for  some  few  daj-s,  at 
a  slower  pace,  round  the  point  of  the  mountain 
towards  Green  River,  and  arrived  once  more  at 
the  caches,  on  the  14th  of  October. 

Here  they  found  traces  of  the  band  of  Indians 
who  had  hunted  them  in  the  defile  towards  the 
head-waters  of  the  Wind  River.  Having  lost 
all  trace  of  them  on  their  way  over  the  moun- 
tains, they  had  turned  and  followed  back  their 
trail  down  Green  River  Valley  to  the  caches. 
One  of  these  they  had  discovered  and  broken 
open,  but  it  fortunatelj^  contained  nothing  but 
fragments  of  old  iron,  which  they  had  scattered 
about  in  all  directions,  and  then  departed.  In 
examining  their  deserted  camp,  Captain  Bon- 
neville discovered  that  it  numbered  thirty-nine 
fires  and  had  more  reason  than  ever  to  congrat- 
ulate himself  on  having  escaped  the  clutches 
of  such  a  formidable  band  of  freebooters. 

He  now  turned  his  course  southward,  under 
cover  of  the  mountains,  and  on  the  25th  of 

%M 


& 

W 


h 


L 


',\^1!ia>'y 


Crail  of  a  parti?  ot  Crows 


October  reached  Liberge's  Ford,  a  tributary  of 
the  Colorado,  where  he  came  suddenly  upon 
the  trail  of  this  same  war  party,  which  had 
crossed  the  stream  so  recently,  that  the  banks 
,^3  were  yet  wet  with  the  water  that  had  been 
splashed  upon  them.  To  judge  from  their 
tracks,  they  could  not  be  less  than  three  hun- 
dred warriors,  and  apparently  of  the  Crow 
nation. 

Captain  Bonneville  was  extremely  uneasy 
lest  this  overpowering  force  should  come  upon 
him  in  some  place  where  he  would  not  have 
the  means  of  fortifying  himself  promptly.  He 
now  moved  towards  Hane's  Fork,  another 
tributary  of  the  Colorado,  where  he  encamped, 
ar  i  remained  during  the  26th  of  October.  See- 
ing a  large  cloud  of  smoke  to  the  south,  he 
supposed  it  to  arise  from  some  encampment 
of  Shoshonies,  and  sent  scouts  to  procure  in- 
formation and  to  purchase  a  lodge.  It  was,  in 
fact,  a  band  of  Shoshonies,  but  with  them  were 
encamped  Fitzpatrick  and  his  ''•ty  of  trap- 
pers. That  active  leader  had  an  eventful  story 
to  relate  of  his  fortunes  in  the  country  of  the 
Crows.  After  parting  with  Captain  Bonneville 
on  the  banks  of  the  Bighorn,  he  made  for  the 
west,  to  trap  upon  Powder  and  Tongue  rivers. 
He  had  between  twenty  and  thirty  men  with 
him,  and  about  one  hundred  horses.     So  large 


i 


A 


'■( 


i! 


t 


I  iiHo^ 


?    J 


I 


I ,'    I 


if» 


fl' 


il<  p       I 


^Ws 


.^nu 


:iSonnc\'iUe'd  Bdventures 


a  cavalcade  could  not  pass  through  the  Crow 
country  without  attracting  the  attention  of  its 
freebooting  hordes.  A  large  band  of  Crows 
were  soon  on  their  traces,  and  came  up  with 
them  on  the  5th  of  September,  just  as  they  had 
reached  Tongue  River.  The  Crow  chief  came 
forward  with  great  appearance  of  friendship, 
ar  '  proposed  to  Fitzpatrick  that  they  should 
encamp  together.  The  latter,  however,  not 
having  any  faith  in  the  Crows,  declined  the 
invitation,  and  pitched  his  camp  three  miles 
off.  He  then  rode  over,  with  two  or  three 
men,  to  visit  the  Crow  chief,  by  whom  he  was 
received  with  great  apparent  cordiality.  In 
the  meantime,  however,  a  party  of  young 
braves,  who  considered  themselves  absolved 
by  his  distrust  from  all  scruples  of  honor,  made 
a  circuit  privately,  and  dashed  into  h'.s  en- 
campment. Captain  Stewart,  who  had  re- 
mained there  in  the  absence  of  Fitzpatrick, 
behaved  with  great  spirit ;  but  the  Crows 
were  too  numerous  and  active.  They  had  got 
possession  of  the  camp,  and  soon  made  booty 
of  everything — canying  off  all  the  horses.  On 
their  way  back  they  met  Fitzpatrick  returning 
to  his  camp ;  and  finished  their  exploit  by 
rifling  and  nearly  stripping  him. 

A  negotiation  now  took  place  between  the 
plundered  white    men    and    the    triumphant 


<n\ 


yj 


Vl 


cTi^ 


jpitspatrick  aiiD  tbe  Crows 


309 


Crows  ;  what  eloquence  and  management  Fitz- 
patrick  made  use  of,  we  do  not  know  ;  but  he 
succeeded  in  prevailing  upon  the  Crow  chief- 
tain to  return  him  his  horses  and  many  of  his 
traps ;  together  with  his  rifles  and  a  few  rounds 
of  ammunition  for  each  man.  He  then  set  out 
with  all  speed  to  abandon  the  Crow  country, 
before  he  should  meet  with  any  fresh  disasters. 
After  his  departure,  the  consciences  of  some 
of  the  most  orthodox  Crows  pricked  them  sorely 
for  having  suffered  such  a  cavalcade  to  escape 
out  of  their  hands.  Anxious  to  wipe  off  so 
foul  a  stigma  on  the  reputation  of  the  Crow 
nation,  they  followed  on  his  trail,  nor  quit 
hovering  about  him  on  his  m-..ch  until  they 
had  stolen  a  number  of  his  best  horses  and 
mules.  It  was,  doubtless,  this  same  band 
which  came  upon  the  lonely  trapper  on  the 
Popo  Agie,  and  generously  gave  him  an  old 
buffalo  robe  in  exchange  for  his  rifle,  his  traps, 
and  all  his  accoutrements.  With  these  anec- 
dotes, we  shall,  for  the  present,  take  our  leave 
of  the  Crow  counlry  and  its  vagabond  chivalry. 


c 


•f, 


r 


HdJM 


IM 


>u 


^A'"*. 


;>iv 


o-rc' 


"i! 

'I 


e 


VI 


I"    I  si 


If  'I 

if 


I! 


I 


.  i-i 


■# 


IP! 


TN, 


Cbaptec  fSIDin. 

A  Region  of  Natural  Curiosities — The  Plain  of  White 
Clay — Hot  Springs — The  Beer  Spring — Departure 
to  Seek  the  Free  Trappers— Plaiu  of  Portneuf — 
Lava — Chasms  and  Gullies — Banneck  Indians — 
Their  Hunt  of  the  BufiFalo— Hunters'  Feast- 
Trencher  Heroes — Bullying  of  an  Absent  Foe — The 
Damp  Comrade — The  Indian  Spy — Meeting  with 
Hodgkiss — His  Adventures — Poordevil  Indians- 
Triumph  of  the  Bannecks — Blackfeet  Policy  in 
War. 

CROSSING  an  elevated  ridge,  Captain 
Bonneville  now  came  upon  Bear  River, 
which,  from  its  source  to  its  entrance 
into  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  describes  the  figure 
of  a  horseshoe.  One  of  the  principal  head- 
waters of  this  river,  although  supposed  to 
abound  with  beaver,  has  never  been  visited 
by  the  trapper ;  rising  among  rugged  moun- 
tains, and  being  barricaded  by  fallen  pine- 
trees  and  tremendous  precipices. 

Proceeding  down   this  river,  the  party  en- 


\^ 


^\ 


^ 


A 


'i 


:  \ 


The  Arlcmesia. 

F'om  oriKiiitil  p/wtograp'.     h\-  p,-ymi<sh'ii  of   77ir    Photo 
c'lrom  Compnuv.  Detioit,  .^.'ichi^^av. 


w 


I 


!!JftW"'---i.':^  n 


i  ' 


!i 


'  •    :l 


•1 


I     u 


\ 


i    ! 

-     f         ^ 

i 

i 


"«!«"■ 


VI!'})  i^^i\~G^r'^'^ 


h, 


Zbc  Xittle  lahe 


camped,  on  the  6th  of  November,  at  the  outlet 
of  a  lake  about  thirty  miles  long,  and  from  two 
to  three  miles  in  width,  completely  imbedded 
in  low  ranges  of  mountains,  and  cotmected 
with  Beer  River  by  an  impassable  swamp.  It 
is  called  the  Little  Lake,  to  distinguish  it  from 
the  great  one  of  salt  water. 

On  the  loth  of  November,  Captain  Bonne- 
ville visited  a  place  in  the  neighborhood  which 
is  quite  a  region  of  natural  curiosities.  An 
area  of  about  half  a  mile  square  presents  a 
level  surface  of  white  clay  or  fuller's  earth, 
perfectly  spotless,  resembling  a  great  slab  of 
Parian  marble,  or  a  sheet  of  dazzling  snow. 
The  effect  is  strikingly  beautiful  at  all  times  ; 
in  summer,  when  it  is  surrounded  with  verd- 
ure, or  in  autumn,  when  it  contrasts  its  bright 
immaculate  surface  with  the  withered  herbage. 
Seen  from  a  distant  eminence,  it  then  shines 
like  a  mirror,  set  in  the  brown  landscape. 
Around  this  plain  are  clustered  numerous 
springs  of  various  sizes  and  temperatures. 
One  of  them,  of  scalding  heat,  boils  furiously 
and  incessantly,  rising  tc  the  height  of  two  or 
three  feet.  In  another  place,  there  is  an  aper- 
ture in  the  earth,  from  which  rushes  a  column 
of  steam  that  forms  a  perpetual  cloud.  The 
ground  for  some  distance  around  sounds  hol- 
low, and  startles  the  solitary  trapper,  as  he 


*--.^S>\ 


'im^ 


KiS^a^s^^^./' ". '"^'^ 


1,^ 


'i'11,1 


i 


I    V 


V 


hears  the  tramp  of  his  horse  giving  the  sound 
of  a  muffled  drum.  He  pictures  to  himself  a 
mysterious  gulf  belov/,  a  place  of  hidden  fires, 
and  gazes  round  him  with  awe  and  uneasiness. 

The  most  noted  curiosity,  however,  of  this 
singular  region,  is  the  Beer  Springs  of  which 
trappers  give  wonderful  accounts.  They  are 
said  to  turn  aside  from  their  route  through  the 
country  to  drink  of  its  waters,  with  as  much 
eagerness  as  the  Arab  seeks  some  famous  well 
of  the  desert.  Captain  Bonneville  describes  it 
as  having  the  taste  of  beer.  His  men  drank  it 
with  avidity,  and  in  copious  draughts.  It  did 
not  appear  to  him  to  possess  any  medicinal 
properties,  or  to  produce  any  peculiar  effects. 
The  Indians,  however,  refuse  to  taste  it,  and 
endeavor  to  persuade  the  white  men  from 
doing  so. 

We  have  heard  this  also  called  the  Soda 
Spring,  and  described  as  containing  iron  and 
sulphur.  It  probably  possesses  some  of  the 
properties  of  the  Ballston  water. 

The  time  had  now  arrived  for  Captain  Bon- 
neville to  go  in  quest  of  the  party  of  free  trap- 
pers detached  in  the  beginning  of  July,  under 
the  command  of  Mr.  Hodgkiss,  to  trap  upon 
the  head-waters  of  Salmon  River.  His  inten- 
tion was  to  unite  them  with  the  party  witli 
which   he  was  at  present  travelling,  that  all 


might  go  into  quarters  together  for  the  winter. 
'V.-^  Accordingly,  on  the  nth  of  November,  he 
took  a  temporary  leave  of  his  band,  appointing 
a  rendezvous  on  Snake  River,  and,  accom- 
panied by  three  men,  set  out  upon  his  journey. 
His  route  lay  across  the  plain  of  the  Portneuf, 
a  tributary  stream  of  Snake  River,  called  after 
an  unfortunate  Canadian  trapper,  murdered 
by  the  Indians.  The  whole  country  through 
which  he  passed,  bore  evidence  of  volcanic 
convulsions  and  conflagration  in  the  olden 
time.  Great  masses  of  lava  lay  scattered  about 
„  t  in  every  direction  ;  the  crags  and  cliffs  had 
^f\  apparently  been  under  the  action  of  fire  ;  the 
rocks  in  some  places  seemed  to  have  been  in 
a  state  of  fusion  ;  the  plain  was  rent  and  split 
with  deep  chasms  and  gullies,  some  of  which 
were  partly  filled  with  lava. 

They  had  not  proceeded  far,  however,  before 
they  saw  a  party  of  horsemen  galloping  full  tilt 
towards  them.  They  instantly  turned,  and 
made  full  speed  for  the  covert  of  a  woody 
''■^  stream,  to  fortify  themselves  among  the  trees. 
The  Indians  came  to  a  halt,  and  one  of  them 
came  forward  alone.  He  reached  Captain 
Bonneville  and  his  men  just  as  they  were  dis- 
mounting and  about  to  post  themselves.  A 
few  words  dispelled  all  uneasiness.  It  was  a 
party  of  twenty-five  Banneck  Indians,  friendly 


AVvi 


r 


p- 


vf^^  ft  <\-■^y^l^^■^s^'W 


«»*^ 


'^^^•'-W&e-}^--"' 


i/i 


l^i. 


-  ' "'  '^^ 


'Ctt 


s, 


>^ity 


AMi 


y 


314 


jSonneviKe's  Bdvcnturce 


-;X 


to  the  whites,  and  they  proposed,  through  their 
envoy,  that  both  parties  should  encamp  together, 
and  hunt  the  buffalo,  of  which  they  had  discov- 
ered several  large  herds  hard  by.  Captain  Bon- 
neville cheerfully  assented  to  their  proposition, 
being  curious  to  see  their  manner  of  hunting. 

Both  parties  accordingly  encamped  together 
on  a  convenient  spot,  and  prepared  for  the 
hunt.  The  Indians  first  posted  a  boy  on  a 
small  hill  near  the  camp,  to  keep  a  look  out 
for  enemies.  The  "runners"  then,  as  they 
are  called,  mounted  on  fleet  horses,  and  armed 
with  bows  and  arrows,  moved  slowly  and 
cautiously  towards  the  buffalo,  keeping  as 
much  as  possible  out  of  sight,  in  hollows  and 
ravines.  When  within  a  proper  distance,  a 
signal  was  given,  and  they  all  opened  at  once 
like  a  pack  of  hounds,  with  a  full  choru  ^f 
yells,  dashinginto  the  middle  of  the  herds,  and 
launching  their  arrows  to  the  right  and  left. 
The  plain  seemed  absolutely  to  shake  under 
the  tramp  of  the  buffalo,  as  they  scoured  off. 
The  cows  in  headlong  panic,  the  bulls  furious 
with  rage,  uttering  deep  roars,  and  occasionally 
turning  with  a  desperate  rush  upon  their  pur- 
suers. Nothing  could  surpass  the  spirit,  grace, 
and  dexterity,  with  which  the  Indians  man- 
aged their  horses ;  wheeling  and  coursing 
among  the  affrighted  herd,  and  launching  their 


Id 


^^ 


^, 


d 


1 


n 


\km 


...^ 


M 


■; 


V 


J! 


3" 


The  Punch  Bowl. 

From  orii^iiia/  photograph,  hy  prr mission  jf   7'//<'   l^holo- 
chrom  Compuny,  />rlroil,  Mii/iigan. 


ursing 
r  their 


VV 


t-t 


/ 


V 


III 


•    ,  1. 


Mil 


'■'I'-'ii 


f 


i', 


,1:^^ 


B  jiiulTalo  t>unt 


315 


arrows  with  unerring  aim.  In  ♦^he  midst  of 
the  apparent  confusion,  they  selected  their  vic- 
tims with  perfect  judgment,  generally  aiming 
at  the  *attcst  of  the  cows,  the  flesh  of  <^he  bull 
being  nearly  worthless,  at  this  season  of  the 
year.  In  a  few  minutes,  each  of  the  hunters 
had  crippled  three  or  four  cows.  A  single 
shot  was  sufficient  for  the  purpose,  and  the 
animal,  once  maimed,  was  left  to  be  completely 
dispatched  at  the  end  of  the  chase.  Frequently, 
a  cow  was  killed  on  the  spot  by  a  single  arrow. 
In  one  instance.  Captain  Bonneville  saw  an  In- 
dian shoot  his  arrow  completely  through  the 
body  of  a  cow,  so  that  it  struck  in  the  ground 
beyond.  The  bulls,  however,  are  not  so  easily 
killed  as  the  cows,  and  always  cost  the  hunter 
several  arrows,  someti;.  ^  s  making  battle  upon 
the  horses,  and  chasing  them  furiously,  though 
severely  wounded,  with  the  darts  still  sticking 
in  their  flesh. 

The  grand  scamper  of  the  hunt  being  over, 
the  Indians  proceeded  to  diiipatch  the  animals 
that  had  been  disabled  ;  then  cutting  up  the 
carcas.ses,  they  returned  with  loads  of  meat  to 
the  camp,  where  the  choicest  pieces  were  soon 
roasting  before  large  fires,  and  a  hunter's  feast 
succeeded  :  at  which  Captain  Bonneville  and 
his  m-^n  were  qualified,  by  previous  fasting,  to 
perform  their  parts  with  great  vigor. 


h 


O:-- 


iiillilii'il»~iTiiiTniiiI  ir~1i«  |-   "iT  I     • 


t 


w 
ill 

I  i 


/I 


!'  ) 


-III 


//J,': 


^Bonneville's  BOventuces 


Some  men  are  said  to  wax  valorous  upon  a 
full  stomach,  and  such  seemed  to  be  the  case 
with  the  Banneck  braves,  who,  in  proportion 
as  they  crammed  themselves  with  buffalo  meat, 
grew  stout  of  heart,  until,  the  supper  at  an 
end,  they  began  to  chant  war  songs,  setting 
forth  their  mighty  deeds,  and  the  victories 
they  had  gained  over  the  Blackfeet.  Warming 
with  the  theme,  and  inflating  themselves  with 
their  own  eulogies,  these  magnanimous  heroes 
of  the  trencher  would  start  up,  advance  a  short 
distance  beyond  the  light  of  the  fire,  and  apos- 
trophize most  vehemently  their  Blackfeet  ene- 
mies, as  though  they  had  been  within  hearing. 
Ruffling,  and  swelling,  and  snorting,  and  slap- 
ping their  breasts,  and  brandishing  their  arms, 
they  would  vociferate  all  their  exploits  ;  re- 
minding the  Blackfeet  how  they  had  drenched 
their  towns  in  tears  and  blood  ;  enumerate  the 
blows  they  had  inflicted,  the  warriors  they  had 
slain,  the  scalps  they  had  brought  off  in 
triumph.  Then,  having  said  tverything  that 
could  stir  a  man's  spleen  or  pique  his  valor, 
they  would  dare  their  imaginary  hearers,  now 
that  the  Bannecks  were  few  in  number,  to 
come  and  take  their  revenge — receiving  no 
reply  to  this  valorous  bravado,  they  would 
conclude  by  all  kinds  of  sneers  and  insults, 
deriding  the  Blackfeet  for  dastards  and  pol- 


'N^ 


w 


r^^^>^.i 


troons,  that  dared  not  accept  their  challenge. 
Such  is  the  kind  of  swaggering  and  rodomon- 
tade in  which  the  "  red  men  "  are  prone  to  in- 
dulge in  their  vainglorious  moments  ;  for,  with 
all  their  vaunted  taciturnity,  they  are  vehe- 
mently prone  at  times  to  become  eloquent 
about  their  exploits,  and  to  so:ind  their  own 
trumpet. 

Having  vented  their  valor  in  this  lierct  effer- 
vescence, the  Banneck  braves  gradually  calmed 
down,  lowered  their  crests,  smoothed  their 
ruffled  feathers,  and  betook  themselves  to  sleep, 
without  placing  a  single  guard  over  their  camp  ; 
so  tluit,  had  the  Blackfeet  taken  them  at  their 
word,  but  few  oi'  these  braggart  heroes  might 
have  survived  for  any  further  boasting. 

On  the  following  morning,  Captain  Bonne- 
ville purchased  a  supply  of  buffalo  meat  from 
his  braggadocio  friends  ;  who,  with  all  their 
vaporing,  were  in  fact  a  verj'  forlorn  horde, 
destitute  of  fire-arms,  and  of  almost  everything 
that  constitutes  riches  in  savage  life.  The 
bargain  concluded,  the  Bannec'-=  set  off  for 
their  village,  which  was  situated,  they  said,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Portneuf,  and  Captain  Bonne- 
ville and  his  companions  shaped  their  course 
towards  Snake  River. 

Arrived  on  the  banks  of  that  river,  he  found 
it  rapid  and  boisterous,  but  not  too  deep  to  be 


>1 


^: 


r.f^     N  .1 


I      ' 


!l1l 


,1  ,;.. 


"-Si^J^S^ 


.i 


H 


JSonncrllle'd  BOrcnturcd 


forded.  In  traversing  it,  however,  one  of  the 
horses  was  swept  suddenly  from  his  footing, 
and  his  rider  was  flung  from  the  saddle  into 
the  midst  of  the  stream.  Both  horse  and  horse- 
man were  extricated  without  any  damage,  ex- 
cept that  the  latter  was  completely  drenched, 
so  that  it  was  necess?\ry  to  kindle  a  fire  to  dry 
him.  While  they  were  thus  occupied,  one  of 
the  party  looking  up,  perceived  an  Indian  scout 
cautiously  reconnoitring  them  irom  the  sum- 
mit of  a  neighboring  hill.  The  moment  he 
found  himself  discovered,  he  disappeared  be- 
hind the  hill.  From  his  furtive  movements, 
Captain  Botmeville  suspected  him  to  be  a  scout 
from  the  Blackfeetcamp,  and  tliat  he  had  gone 
to  report  what  he  had  seen  to  his  companions. 
It  would  not  do  to  loiter  in  such  a  neighbor- 
hood, so  the  kindling  of  the  fire  was  abandoned, 
the  drenched  horseman  mounted  in  dripping 
condition,  and  the  little  band  pushed  forward 
directly  into  the  plain,  going  at  a  smart  pace, 
until  they  had  gained  a  considerable  distance 
from  the  place  of  supposed  danger.  Here  en- 
camping for  the  night,  in  the  midst  of  abun- 
dance of  sage,  or  wormwood,  which  afforded 
fodder  for  their  horses,  they  kindled  a  huge  fire 
for  the  benefit  of  their  damp  comrade,  and  then 
proceeded  to  prepare  a  sumptuous  supper  of 
buffalo  humps  and  ribs,  and  other  choice  bits, 


I 


'  t 


. ,«-»    « '^,<~>- 


=^' 


.•v_i-^-^     ■'■^  / 


/*^^  ^Jr  X  ^  JJ'^twVi.^i;  £>  J3)  i^  ^'  \3,'Q.'«"i*  i**  ^ittt 


Aeetiiid  witb  l^oDdltisd 


319 


which  they  had  brought  with  them.  After  a 
hearty  repast,  relished  with  an  appetite  un- 
known to  city  epicures,  they  stretched  them- 
selves upon  their  couches  of  skins,  and  under 
the  starry  canopy  of  heaven  enjoyed  the  sound 
and  sweet  sleep  of  hardy  and  well-fed  moun- 
taineers. 

They  continued  on  their  journey  for  several 
days,  without  any  incident  worthy  of  notice, 
and  on  the  19th  of  November,  came  upon  traces 
of  the  party  of  which  they  were  in  search  ; 
such  as  burnt  patches  of  prairie,  and  deserted 
camping  grounds.  All  these  were  carefully 
examined,  to  discover  by  their  iVeshness  or 
antiquity  the  probable  time  that  the  trappers 
had  left  them  ;  at  length,  after  much  wander- 
ing and  investigating,  they  came  upon  a  regu- 
lar trail  of  the  limiting  party,  which  led  into 
the  mountains,  and  following  it  up  bri.skly, 
came  about  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  the 
20tli,  upon  the  encampment  of  Hodgkiss  and 
his  band  of  free  trappers,  in  the  bosom  of  a 
mountain  valley. 

It  will  be  recollected  that  these  free  trappers, 
who  were  masters  of  tlieniselve.s  and  their 
movements,  had  refused  to  accompany  Captain 
Bonneville  back  to  Green  River  in  the  preced- 
ing month  of  July,  preferring  to  trap  about  the 
upper  waters  of  the  Salmon  River,  wher'^.-  ihey 


"■,!j:'>iiiiii-i'"; 


h 


►  : 
(' 


/ 


ii' 


'    !,'1 


11 

'M 


iii 


^w 


Jf 


r^3S?sr 


^"^^6^ 


320 


JBonnevil(c'0  adventures 


expected  to  find  plenty  of  beaver,  and  a  less 
dangerous  neighborhood.  Their  hunt  had  not 
been  very  successful.  They  had  penetrated  the 
great  range  of  mountains  among  which  some 
of  the  upper  branches  of  Salmon  River  take 
their  rise,  but  had  become  so  entangled  among 
immense  and  almost  impassable  barricades  of 
falleji  pines,  and  so  impeded  by  tremendous 
precipices,  that  a  greater  part  of  their  season 
had  been  wasted  among  those  mountains.  At 
one  time  they  had  made  their  way  through 
them,  and  reached  the  Bois6e  River ;  but 
meeting  with  a  band  of  Banneck  Indians,  from 
whom  they  apprehended  hostilities,  they  had 
again  taken  shelter  among  the  mountains, 
where  they  were  found  by  Captain  Bonneville. 
In  the  neighborhood  of  their  encampment,  the 
captain  had  the  gooa  fortune  to  meet  with  a 
family  of  those  wanderers  of  the  mountains, 
emphatically  called  h's  dignes  de  pitie,  or  Poor- 
devil  Indians.  These,  however,  appear  to  have 
forfeited  the  title,  for  they  had  with  them  a 
fine  lot  of  skins  of  beaver,  elk,  deer,  and 
mountain  sheep.  These  Captain  Bonneville 
purchased  from  them  at  a  fair  valuation,  and 
sent  them  off  astonished  at  their  own  wealth, 
and  no  doubt  objects  of  envy  to  all  their  piti- 
ful tribe. 

Being  now  reinforced  by  Hodgkiss  and  his 


5ssli 


,"  1 


t\ 


I  his 


AW 


band  of  free  trappers,  Captain  Bonneville  put 
himself  at  the  head  of  the  united  parties,  and 
set  out  to  rejoin  those  he  had  recently  left  at 
the  Beer  Spring,  that  they  might  all  go  into 
winter  quarters  on  Snake  River.  On  his  route, 
he  encountered  many  heavy  falls  of  snow, 
which  melted  almost  immediately,  so  as  not  to 
impede  his  march,  and  on  the  4th  of  Decem- 
ber he  found  his  other  party,  encamped  in  the 
very  place  where  he  had  partaken  in  the  buffalo 
hunt  with  the  Bannecks. 

The  braggart  horde  was  encamped  about 
three  miles  off,  and  were  just  then  in  high  glee 
and  festivity,  and  more  swaggering  than  ever, 
celebrating  a  prodigious  victory.  It  appeared 
that  a  party  of  their  Vjraves  being  out  on  a 
hunting  excursion,  dicovered  a  band  of  Black- 
feet  moving,  as  they  thought,  to  surprise  their 
hunting  camp.  The  Bannecks  imm  ^diately 
posted  themselves  on  each  side  of  a  dark  ra- 
vine, through  which  the  enemy  must  pass,  and 
just  as  they  were  entangled  in  the  midst  of  it, 
attacked  them  with  great  fury.  The  Blackfeet 
struck  with  sudden  panic,  threw  off  their  buf- 
falo robes  and  fled,  leaving  one  of  their  war- 
riors dead  on  the  spot.  The  victors  eagerly 
gathered  n\)  the  spoils  ;  but  their  greatest  prize 
was  the  scalp  of  the  Blackfoot  brave.  This 
they  bore  off  in  triumph  to  their  village,  where 


t-.*' 


S3^5ll 


>  •  /,v :: 


■iifliMW 


llfHMi 


^gia^,mCS"i* 


:^h 


^¥.^^^^^ 


/^  fl 


ir' 


322 


3!Sot!ticvUlc's  BCtvcnturcs 


■'..** 


H 


it  has  ever  since  been  an  object  of  the  greatest 
exultation  and  rejoicing.  It  had  been  elevated 
upon  a  pole  in  the  center  of  the  village,  where 
the  warriors  had  celebrated  the  scalp  dance 
round  it,  with  war  feasts,  war  songs,  and  war- 
like harangues.  It  had  then  been  given  up  to 
the  women  and  boys  ;  who  had  paraded  it  up 
and  down  the  village  with  shouts  and  chants 
and  antic  dances  ;  occasionallj-  saluting  it  with 
all  kinds  of  taunts,  invectives,  and  revilings. 

The  Blackfeet,  in  this  affair,  do  not  appear 
to  have  acted  up  to  the  character  which  has 
rendered  them  objects  of  such  terror.  Indeed, 
their  conduct  in  war,  to  the  inexperienced  ob- 
server, is  full  of  inconsistencies  ;  at  one  time 
the}'  are  headlong  in  courage,  and  heedless  of 
danger ;  at  another  time  cautious  almost  to 
cowardice.  To  understand  these  apparent  in- 
congruities, one  must  know  their  principles  of 
warfare,  A  war  party,  however  triumphant, 
if  they  lose  a  warrior  in  the  fight,  bring  back 
a  cause  of  mourning  to  their  people,  which 
casts  a  shade  over  the  glory  of  their  achieve- 
ment. Hence,  the  Indian  is  often  less  fierce 
and  reckless  in  general  battle,  than  he  is  in  a 
private  brawl  ;  and  the  chiefs  are  checked  in 
their  boldest  undertakings  by  the  fear  of  sac- 
rificing their  warriors. 

peculiarity     is    not    confined    to    the 


This 


^1 


K 


/^?^^/i  ..^(ir^-r#--^f:^.  ^4?K?^ 


.Tvi  ii 


k/ 


^ffh 


f~^'^ 


police  In  "Uaar 


w 


323        ®Ce, 


Blackfeet.  Among  the  Osages,  says  Captain 
Bonneville,  when  a  warrior  falls  in  battle,  his 
comrades,  though  the\-  may  have  fought  w'th 
consummate  valor,  and  won  a  glorious  victorj', 
will  leave  their  arms  upon  the  field  of  battle, 
and  returning  home  with  dejected  coimte- 
nances,  will  halt  without  the  encampment, 
and  wait  until  the  relatives  of  the  slain  come 
forth  and  invite  them  to  mingle  again  with 
their  people. 


^. 


(i 


V, 


V 


■'V 


R) 


l€JV 


1^- 


I 


ill 


'll 


■  VMS! 


it- 


Cbapter  Ji*1[*\ 

Within  Camp  at  the  Portueuf — Fine  Springs — The 
Banneck  Indians — Their  Honesty — Captain  Bonne- 
ville Prepares  for  an  Expedition — Christmas — The 
American  Falls — Wild  Scenery — F'ishing  Falls — 
Snake  Indians — Scenery  on  the  Bruneau — View  of 
Volcanic  Country  from  a  Mountain — Powder  River 
— Shoshokoes,  or  Root  Diggers — Their  Character 
Habits,  Habitations,  Dogs — Vanity  at  its  Last  Shift. 

IN  esta1)li.sliinj^  his  winter  camp  near  the 
Portneiif,  Captain  Bonneville  had  drawn 
off  to  some  little  distance  irom  his  Bamieck 
friends,  to  avoid  all  annoyance  from  their  inti- 
macy or  intrusions.  In  so  doing,  however,  he 
had  been  obliged  to  take  up  his  quarters  on 
the  extreme  edge  of  the  flat  land,  where  he  was 
encompassed  with  ice  and  snow,  and  had  noth- 
ing better  for  his  horses  to  subsist  on  than 
wormwood.  The  Bannecks,  on  the  contrary, 
were  encamped  among  fine  springs  of  water, 
wliere  there  was  grass  in  abundance.  Some 
of  these  springs  gush  out  of  the  earth  in  suffi- 
cient quantity  to  turn  a  mill,  and  furnish  beau- 


^; 


i>: 


t 


J 


liftil  streams,  clear  as  crystal,  and  full  of  trout 
of  a  large  size,  which  may  be  seen  darting 
about  the  transparent  water. 

Winter  now  set  in  regularly.  The  snow  had 
fallen  frequently,  and  in  large  quantities,  and 
covered  the  ground  to  the  depth  of  a  foot ;  and 
the  continued  coldness  of  the  weather  prevented 
any  thaw. 

By  degrees,  a  distrust  which  nt  first  subsisted 
between  the  Indians  and  the  trappers,  subsided, 
and  gave  way  to  mutual  confidence  and  good- 
will. A  few  presents  convinced  the  chiefs  that 
the  white  men  were  their  friends ;  nor  were 
the  white  men  wanting  in  proofs  of  the  honesty 
and  good  faith  of  their  savage  neighbors.  Oc- 
casionally, the  deep  snow  and  the  want  of  fod- 
der obliged  them  to  turn  their  weakest  hordes 
out  to  roajn  in  quest  of  sustenance.  If  they  at 
any  time  strayed  to  the  camp  of  the  Bannecks, 
they  were  innnediately  brought  back.  It  must 
be  confessed,  however,  that  if  the  .stray  horse 
happened,  by  any  chance,  to  be  in  vigorous 
plight  and  good  condition,  though  he  was 
equally  sure  to  be  returned  by  the  honest  Ban- 
necks,  yet  it  was  always  after  the  lapse  of  .sev- 
eral days,  and  in  a  very  gaunt  and  jaded  state  ; 
and  always  with  the  remark,  that  they  had 
found  him  a  long  way  off.  The  uncharitable 
were  apt  to  surmise  that  he  had,    in  the  in- 


tlK^'V"  «; 


I 


'•MMI 


h 


r 


i! 


■"■  4 


^?^^r^n=^ 


JSonncville'd  BDvcnture:3 


terim,  been  well  used  up  in  a  buffalo  hunt ; 
but  those  accustomed  to  Indian  morality  in 
the  matter  of  horse-flesh,  considered  it  a  sin- 
gular evidence  of  honesty,  that  he  .should  be 
brought  back  at  all. 

Being  convinced,  therefore,  from  the.se  and 
other  circumstances,  that  h:.,  people  were  en- 
camped in  tlic  neighborhood  of  a  tribe  as  hon- 
est as  they  were  valiant,  and  satisfied  that  they 
would  pass  their  winter  unmolested,  Captain 
Bonneville  prepared  for  a  reconnoitring  expe- 
dition of  great  e.xtent  and  peril.  This  was  to 
penetrate  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  establishments 
on  the  banks  of  the  Columbia,  and  to  make 
himself  acquainted  with  the  country  and  the 
Indian  tribes  ;  it  being  one  part  of  his  scheme 
to  establish  a  trading  post  somewhere  on  the 
lower  part  of  the  river,  .so  as  to  participate  in 
the  trade  lost  to  the  United  States  by  the  cap- 
ture of  Astoria.  This  expedition  would,  of 
course,  take  him  through  the  Snake  River 
country,  and  across  the  Blue  Mountains,  the 
scenes  of  so  much  hardship  and  disaster  to 
Hunt  and  Crooks,  and  their  Astorian  bands, 
who  first  explored  it,  and  he  would  have  to 
pass  through  it  in  the  .same  frigntful  season, 
the  depth  of  the  winter. 

The  idta  of  risk  and  hardship,  however, 
only  served  to  stimulate  the  adventurous  spirit 


^O^j'J^ 


h 


I  \ 

« 


"W^r 


iS/"/,, 


w 


ft     M 

W 


tv**' 


ir: 


&b 


^ 


K^f. 


'  /l'' 


B  perilous  JEspeDition 


of  the  captain.  He  chose  three  companions 
for  liis  journey,  put  up  a  small  stock  of  neces- 
saries in  the  most  portable  form,  and  selected 
five  horses  and  mules  for  themselves  and  their 
baggage.  He  proposed  to  rejoin  his  band  in 
the  early  part  of  March,  at  the  winter  encamp- 
ment near  the  Portneuf.  All  these  arrange- 
ments being  completed,  he  mounted  his  horse 
on  Christmas  morning,  and  .set  off  with  his 
three  comrades.  They  halted  a  little  beyond 
the  Banneck  camp,  and  made  their  Chri.stmas 
dinner,  which,  if  not  a  verj-  merry,  was  a  very 
hearty  one,  after  which  they  resumed  their 
journey. 

They  were  obliged  to  travel  .slowly,  to  spare 
their  horses,  for  the  .snow  had  increa.sed  in 
depth  to  eighteen  inches  ;  and  though  some- 
what packed  and  frozen,  was  not  sufficiently 
so  to  yield  firm  footing.  Their  route  lay  to 
the  west,  down  along  the  left  side  of  Snake 
River,  and  they  were  several  days  in  reaching 
the  first,  or  American  Falls.  The  banks  of 
the  river,  for  a  considerable  distance,  both 
above  and  below  the  falls,  have  a  volcanic 
character  ;  masses  of  basaltic  rock  are  piled 
one  upon  another  ;  the  water  makes  its  way 
through  their  broken  chasms,  boiling  through 
narrow  chamiels,  or  pitching  in  beautiful  cas- 
cades over  ridges  of  basaltic  columns. 


c.(«*<>,  .--"t?^  (fT 


<?^>^.- 


'<^\ 


i^k  ) 


^<^ 


""— ^Vi.--"^"'    '^ 


h 


1^ 


l)y 


1 


!i 


If 


-pv" 


'> 


\^^ 


JBonncvtnc'fl  ^^rcnture8 


Beyond  these  falls,  they  came  to  a  pictur- 
esque but  inconsiderable  stream,  called  the 
Cassie.  It  runs  through  a  level  valley,  about 
four  miles  wide,  where  the  soil  is  good  ;  but 
the  prevalent  coldness  and  dryness  of  the  climate 
is  unfavorable  to  vegetation.  Near  to  this 
stream  there  is  a  small  mountain  of  mica  slate, 
including  garnets.  Granite,  in  small  blocks, 
is  likewise  seen  in  this  neighborhood,  and 
white  sandstone.  From  this  river,  the  travel- 
lers had  a  prospect  of  the  snowy  heights  of  the 
Salmon  River  Mountains  to  the  north  ;  the 
nearest,  at  least  fifty  miles  distant. 

In  pursuing  his  course  westward,  Captain 
Boiuieville  generally  kept  several  miles  from 
Snake  River,  crossing  the  headsof  itstributarj'- 
streams  ;  though  he  often  found  the  open 
country  so  encumbered  by  volcanic  rocks  as  to 
render  travelling  extremely  difficult.  When- 
ever he  approached  Snake  River,  he  found  it 
running  through  a  broad  chasm,  with  steep, 
perpendicular  sides  of  basaltic  rock.  After 
several  days'  travel  across  a  level  plain,  he 
came  to  a  part  of  the  river  which  filled  him 
with  astonishment  and  admiration.  As  far  as 
the  eye  could  reach,  the  river  was  walled  iti  by 
perpendicular  cliffs  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
high,  beetling  like  dark  and  gloomy  battle- 
ments,   while    blocks  and    fragments   lay   in 


:s/. 


;  I 


"  After  Several  Days'  Travel  he  Came 
to  a  Part  of  the  River  which  Filled 
him  with  Astonishment  aiul  Adnii- 
rat  ion." 

From  a  di  awini^  hy  I lem  Y  Savdham. 


I 


'/ 


I 


If 

r 

1 

?• 

1i  III ! 


I 


fc 


masses  at  their  feet,  in  the  midst  of  the  boiling 
and  whirHng  current.  Just  above,  the  whole 
stream  pitched  in  one  cascade  above  forty  feet 
in  height,  with  a  thundering  sound,  casting  up 
a  volume  of  spray  that  hung  in  the  air  like  a  sil- 
ver mist.  These  are  called  by  .some  the  Fishing 
Falls,  as  the  salmon  are  taken  here  in  immense 
quantities.     They  cannot  get  by  these  falls. 

After  encamping  at  this  place  all  night, 
Captain  Bonneville,  at  sunrise,  descended  with 
his  party  through  a  narrow  ravine,  or  rather 
crevice,  in  the  vast  wall  of  basaltic  rock  which 
bordered  the  river  ;  this  being  the  only  mode, 
for  nianj;^  miles,  of  getting  to  the  margin  of  the 
stream. 

The  snow  lay  in  a  thin  crust  along  the  banks 
of  the  river,  .so  that  their  travelling  was  much 
more  easy  than  it  had  been  hitherto.  There 
were  foot-tracks,  also,  made  by  the  natives, 
which  greatly  facilitated  their  progress.  Oc- 
casionally, they  met  the  inhabitants  of  this 
wild  region  ;  a  timid  race,  and  but  scantily 
provided  with  the  necessaries  of  life.  Their 
dress  consisted  of  a  mantle  about  four  feet 
square,  formed  of  strips  of  rabbit  skins  sewed 
together  :  this  they  hung  over  their  shoulders, 
in  the  ordinary  Indian  mode  of  wearing  a  blan- 
ket. Their  weapons  were  bows  and  arrows  ; 
the  latter  tipped  with  obsidian,  which  abounds 


i-  •-■:. 


*> 


>fl' 


m 


f  1 1 11 


-..ii 


3BonncvUle'd  BDventurcd 


in  the  neighborhood.  Their  huts  were  shaped 
like  haystacks,  and  constructed  of  branches  of 
willow  covered  with  long  grass,  so  as  to  be 
warm  and  comfortable.  Occasionally  they 
were  surnnnuled  by  small  inclosures  of  worm- 
wood, about  three  feet  high,  which  gave  them 
a  cottage-like  appearance.  Three  or  four  of 
these  tenaments  were  occasionally  grouped  to- 
gether in  some  wild  and  striking  situation,  and 
had  a  picturesque  effect.  Sometimes  they  were 
in  sufficient  number  to  form  a  small  hamlet. 
From  these  people.  Captain  Bonneville's  party 
frequently  purchased  salmon,  dried  in  an  ad- 
mirable manner,  as  were  likewise  the  roes. 
This  seemed  to  be  their  prime  article  of  food  ; 
but  they  were  extremely  anxious  to  get  buffalo 
meat  in  exchange. 

The  high  walls  and  rocks,  within  which  the 
travellers  had  been  so  long  inclosed,  now  occa- 
sionally presented  openings,  through  which 
they  were  enabled  to  ascend  to  the  plain,  and 
to  cut  off  considerable  bends  of  the  river. 

Throughout  the  whole  extent  of  this  vast 
and  .singular  chasm,  the  .scenerj'  of  the  river  is 
said  to  be  of  the  most  wild  and  romajitic  char- 
acter. The  rocks  present  every  variety  of 
masses  and  grouping.  Numerous  small  streams 
come  rushing  and  boiling  through  narrow  clefts 
and  ravines  :  one  of  a  considerable  size  issued 


{& 


^tiV 


^ 


A,.  .     - 


it 


Scencrv?  of  tbc  JBruneau 


331 


from  the  face  of  a  precipice,  within  twenty-five 
feet  of  its  snnimit  ;  and  after  runninj^  in  nearly 
a  horizontal  line  for  about  one  hundred  feet, 
fell,  by  numerous  small  cascades,  to  the  rocky 
bank  of  the  river. 

In  its  career  throujjh  this  vast  and  singular 
defile,  Snake  River  is  upwards  of  three  hundred 
yards  wide,  and  as  clear  as  spring  water. 
Sometimes  it  steals  along  with  a  tranquil  and 
noiseless  course  ;  at  other  times,  for  miles  and 
miles,  it  dashes  on  in  a  thousand  rapids,  wild 
and  beautiful  to  the  ej'e,  and  lulling  the  ear 
with  the  soft  tumult  of  plashing  waters. 

Many  of  the  tributary  .streams  of  Snake  River 
rival  it  in  the  wilderness  and  ])icture.squeness 
of  their  scenery.  Tliat  called  the  Bruneau  is 
particularly  cited.  It  runs  through  a  tre- 
mendous chasm,  rather  than  a  vallej',  extend- 
ing upwards  of  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  You 
come  upon  it  on  a  sudden,  in  traversing  a  level 
plain.  It  seems  as  if  you  could  throw  a  stoie 
across  from  cliff  to  cliff;  yet,  the  valley  is  near 
two  thousand  feet  deep  :  so  that  the  river  looks 
like  an  inconsiderable  stream.  Basaltic  rocks 
rise  ]ierpendicularl}',  .so  that  it  is  impossible  to 
get  from  the  plain  to  the  water,  or  from  the 
river  margin  to  the  plain.  The  current  is 
bright  and  limpid.  Hot  springs  are  found  on 
the  borders  of  this  river.     One  bursts  out  of 


S>g:^c^g^V®^^0  J^^rKVr^^^He^'_ 


r 


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7. 


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the  cliff  forty  feet  above  the  river,  in  a  stream 
sufficient  to  turn  a  mill,  and  sends  up  a  cloud 
of  vapor. 

We  find  a  characteristic  picture  of  this  vol- 
canic region  of  mountains  and  streams,  fur- 
nished by  the  journal  of  Mr.  Wyetli,  which  lies 
before  us  ;  who  ascended  a  peak  in  the  neigh- 
borhood we  are  describing.  From  this  summit, 
the  country,  he  says,  appears  an  indescribable 
chaos  ;  the  tops  of  the  hills  exhibit  the  same 
strata  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  ;  and  appear 
to  have  once  formed  the  level  of  the  country  ; 
and  the  valleys  to  be  formed  bj-  the  sinking  of 
the  earth,  rather  than  the  rising  of  the  hills. 
Through  the  deep  cracks  and  chasms  thus 
formed,  the  rivers  and  brooks  make  their  way, 
which  renders  it  difficult  to  follow  them.  All 
these  basaltic  channels  are  called  "  cut  rocks" 
by  the  trappers.  Many  of  the  mountain  streams 
disappear  in  the  plains  ;  either  absorbed  by 
their  thirsty  soil,  and  by  the  porous  surface  of 
the  lava,  or  swallowed  up  in  gulfs  and  chasms. 

On  the  i2th  January  (1834),  Captain  Bonne- 
ville reached  Powder  River,  much  the  largest 
stream  that  he  had  seen  since  leaving  the 
Portneuf  He  struck  it  about  three  miles 
above  its  entrance  into  Snake  River.  Here  he 
found  himself  above  the  lower  narrows  and 
defiles  of  the  latter  river,  and  in  an  open  and 


M 


level  country.  The  natives  now  made  their 
appearance  in  considerable  numbers,  and 
evinced  the  most  insatiable  curiosit\-  respecting 
the  white  men  ;  sitting  in  groups  for  hours 
together,  exposed  to  the  bleakest  winds,  merelj- 
for  the  pleasure  of  gazing  upon  the  strangers, 
and  watching  every  movement.  These  are  of 
that  branch  of  the  great  Snake  tribe  ended 
Shoshokoes,  or  Root  Diggers,  from  their  sub- 
sisting, in  a  great  measure,  on  the  roots  of 
the  earth  ;  though  they  likewise  take  fish  in 
great  quantities,  and  hunt,  in  a  small  way. 
They  are,  in  general,  very  poor  ;  destitute  of 
most  of  the  comforts  of  life,  and  extremelj' 
indolent :  but  a  mild,  inoffensive  race.  They 
differ,  in  many  respects,  from  the  other  branch 
of  the  ySnake  tribe,  the  Shoshonies,  who  possess 
horses,  are  more  roving  and  adventurous,  and 
hunt  the  buffalo. 

On  the  following  day,  t\s  Captain  Bonneville 
approached  the  mouth  of  Powder  River,  he 
discovered  at  least  a  hundred  families  of  these 
Diggers,  as  they  are  familiarh'  called,  assembled 
in  one  place.  The  women  and  cliildren  kept 
at  a  distance,  perched  among  the  rocks  and 
cliffs,  their  eager  curiosity  being  somewhat 
dashed  with  fear.  From  their  elevated  posts, 
they  scrutinized  the  strangers  with  the  most 
intense  earneslness  ;  regarding  them  with  al- 


■$ 


^ 


wmsmemsm* 


II 


l^:y!W 


Wa:v- 


334 


JBonncvillc's  BC»vcntiirc^ 


most  as  much  awe  as  if  they  had  been  beings 
of  a  snpernatural  order. 

The  men,  however,  were  by  no  mep.ns  so 
shy  and  reserved  ;  but  importuned  Captain 
Bonneville  and  his  companions  excessivelj'  by 
their  curiosity.  Nothing  escaped  their  notice  ; 
and  anything  they  could  lay  their  hands  on 
underwent  the  most  minute  examination.  To 
get  rid  of  such  inquisitive  neighbors,  the 
travellers  kept  on  for  a  considerable  distance, 
before  they  encamped  for  the  night. 

The  country  hereabout  was  generally  level 
and  sandy  ;  producing  very  little  grass,  but  a 
considerable  quantity  of  sage  or  wormwood. 
The  plains  were  diversified  b)'  isolated  hills, 
all  cut  off",  as  it  were,  al)out  the  same  height, 
so  as  to  have  tabidar  summits.  In  this  they 
resembled  the  isolated  hills  of  the  great  prairies 
east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  ;  especially  those 
found  on  the  plains  of  the  Arkansas. 

The  higli  precipices  which  had  hitherto 
walled  in  the  channel  of  Snake  River  had  now 
disappeared,  and  the  banks  were  of  the  ordi- 
nary height.  It  siiould  be  observed,  that  the 
great  valleys  or  plains  through  which  the 
Snake  River  wound  its  course,  were  generally 
of  great  breadth,  extending  on  each  side  from 
thirty  to  forty  miles  ;  where  the  view  was 
bounded  by  unbroken  ridges  of  uiountains. 


,C)?f^^r^^^'£'^^^' 


^^^^^1^*8^^ 


a  IDillagc  of  TRoot  I>fgger8 


335 


>^ 


■^^y 


The  travellers  fomul  but  little  snow  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Powder  River,  though  the 
weather  continued  intensely  cold.  They  learnt 
a  lesson,  however,  from  their  forlorn  friends, 
the  Root  Diggers,  which  thej-  subsequently 
found  of  great  service  in  their  wintry  wander- 
ings. They  frecinently  observed  them  to  be 
furnished  with  long  ropes,  twisted  from  the 
bark  of  the  wormwood.  This  they  used  as  a 
slow  match,  carrying  it  always  lighted.  When- 
ever they  wished  to  warm  themselves,  they 
would  gather  togetlier  a  little  dry  wormwood, 
apply  the  match,  and  in  an  instant  produce  a 
cheering  blaze. 

Captain  Bonneville  gives  a  cheerless  account 
of  a  village  of  these  Diggers,  which  he  saw  in 
crossing  the  plain  below  Powder  River.  "  They 
live,"  says  he,  "  without  any  further  protec- 
tion from  the  inclemency  of  the  sea.soji  than  a 
.sort  of  break- weather,  al)out  three  feet  high, 
composed  of  sage  (or  wormwood),  and  erected 
around  them  in  the  shape  of  a  half-moon." 
Whenever  he  met  with  them,  however,  they 
had  always  a  large  suite  of  half-starved  dogs  ; 
for  these  animals,  in  savage  as  well  as  in 
civilized  life,  seem  to  be  the  concomitants  of 
beggary. 

These  dogs,  it  must  be  allowed,  were  of 
^^If^J      more  use  than  the  beggarly  curs  of  cities.     The        , 


n 


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t^P^^WmffSW!*!? 


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336 


aSonnevUlc's  B£tventutC0 


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Indian  children  used  them  in  hunting  the  small 
game  of  the  neighborhood,  sucli  as  rabbits  and 
prairie  dogs  ;  in  which  mongrel  kind  of  chase 
they  acquitted  themselves  with  some  credit. 

Sometimes  the  Diggers  aspire  to  nobler 
game,  and  succeed  in  trapping  the  ante'ope, 
the  fleetest  animal  of  the  prairies.  The  pro- 
cess b)'  which  this  is  effected  is  somewhat 
singular.  When  the  snow  has  disappeared, 
sajs  Captain  Bonneville,  and  the  ground  be- 
come soft,  the  women  go  into  the  thickest 
fields  of  wormwood,  and  pulling  it  up  in  great 
quantities,  construct  with  it  a  hedge,  about 
three  feet  high,  inclosing  about  a  hundred  acres. 
A  single  opening  is  left  for  the  admission  of  the 
game.  This  douj,  the  women  conceal  them- 
selves behind  the  wormwood,  and  wait  patiently 
for  the  coming  of  the  antelopes  ;  which  .some- 
times enter  this  spacious  trap  in  considerable 
numbers.  As  soon  as  they  are  in,  the  women 
give  the  signal,  and  the  men  hasten  to  play 
their  part.  But  one  of  them  enters  the  pen  at 
a  time  ;  and,  after  chasing  the  terrified  animals 
round  the  inclosure,  is  relieved  by  one  of  his 
C()mpari(,ns.  Iv.  this  way  the  hunters  take 
their  turns,  relieving  each  other,  and  keeping 
up  a  continued  pursuit  by  relays,  without 
fatigue  to  themselves.  The  poor  antelopes,  in 
the  end,  are  .so  wearied  down,  that  the  whole 


-Jv 


4: 


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£ntcappind  ol  (3ame 


party  of  men  enter  and  dispatch  tlieni  with 
clubs — not  one  escaping  that  has  entered  the 
inclosure.  The  most  curious  circumstance  in 
this  chase  is,  that  an  animal  so  fleet  and  agile 
as  the  antelope,  and  straining  for  its  life,  should 
range  roimd  and  round  this  fated  inclosure, 
without  attempting;  to  overleap  the  low  barrier 
which  surrounds  it.  Such,  hovever,  is  said  to 
be  the  fact  ;  and  such  their  only  mode  of 
hunting  the  antelope. 

Notwithstanding  the  absence  of  all  comfort 
and  convenience  in  their  haliitations,  and  the 
general  squalidness  of  their  appearance,  the 
Shoshokoes  do  not  appear  to  be  destitute  of 
ingenuit}'.  Thej-  manufacture  good  ropes, 
and  even  a  tolerably  fine  thread,  from  a  sort 
of  weed  found  in  their  neighborhood  ;  and  con- 
struct bowls  and  jugs  out  of  a  kind  of  basket- 
work  formed  from  small  strips  of  wood  plaited  : 
these  by  the  aid  of  a  little  wax,  they  render 
perfecth'  water  tight.  Beside  the  roots  on  which 
they  mainly  depend  for  subsistence,  they  collect 
great  quantities  of  seed  of  various  kinds,  beaten 
with  one  hand  out  of  the  tops  of  the  plants  into 
wooden  bowls  held  for  that  purpose.  The 
seed  thus  collected  is  winnowed  and  parched, 
and  ground  lietween  two  stones  into  a  kind  of 
meal  or  flour  ;  which,  when  mixed  with  water, 


forms  a  very  palatable  paste  or 


mm 


tmma 


it'-i.m,"!Uli^-.!BB 


'Cio'  £^©  %jD^<j^'il^''^si>^  <b^' 


^1^- 


33S 


JSonncvillc'e  BOvcnturce 


Some  of  these  people,  more  provident  and 
industrious  tliau  the  rest,  lay  up  a  stock  of 
dried  sahnon,  and  other  fish  for  winter :  with 
these,  the}-  were  ready  to  traffic  with  the  trav- 
ellers for  any  ol)jects  of  utility  in  Indian  life  ; 
giving  a  large  quantity  in  exchange  for  an  awl, 
a  knife,  or  a  fish-hook.  Others  were  in  the 
most  abject  state  of  want  and  starvation,  and 
would  even  gather  up  the  fish-lxMies  whicli 
the  travellers  threw  away  after  a  repast,  warm 
them  over  again  at  the  fire,  and  pick  them 
with  the  greatest  avidity. 

The  further  Captain  Bonneville  advanced 
into  the  country  of  these  Root  Diggers,  the 
more  evidence  he  perceived  of  their  rude  and 
forlorn  condition.  "They  were  destitute," 
.says  he,  "  of  the  necetisary  covering  to  protect 
them  from  the  weatlier  ;  and  seemed  to  be  in 
the  most  unsophisticated  ignorance  of  any 
other  propriety  or  advantage  in  the  use  of 
clothing.  One  old  dame  had  ab.solutely  noth- 
ing on  her  person  but  a  thread  round  her  neck 
from  which  was  pendent  a  solitary  bead." 

What  stage  of  human  destitution,  however, 
is  too  destitute  for  vanity  !  Though  these 
naked  and  forlorn-looking  beings  had  neither 
toilet  to  arrange,  nor  beauty  to  contemplate, 
their  greatest  passion  was  for  a  mirror.  It 
was  a  "great  medicine,"  in  their  eyes.     The 


V 

^i 


, /T^     <^<«/?.. 


Fi.Li 


'/i^  ^  -^S  ^  i  JiX^  is»H,*«,ii  ii  ^  -^  -?  i^ti-'iv  (ii;  »w»  b.( 


6^ 


IDanite  at  its  Xa^t  Sbift 


339 


3<  I        sight  of  one   was  siifFicient,  at   ati}'  time,  to 
\v  i*!?      throw  them  into  a  paroxysm  of  eagerness  and 
(jj      delight;  and  thej- were  ready  to  give  anything 
^T^      they  had  for  tlie  smallest  fragment  in  which  '< 

they    might    behold    their    squalid    features.       ^•<Ki) 
With  this  simple  instance  of  vanity  in  its  prim-      V  u /;> 
itive  but  vigorous   state,   we  shall   close   our      -     ?* 
remarks  on  the  Root  Diggers. 


w 


END   OK   V(JI.rMK   I. 


':('W 


1- 


"3 


er 


-^-^»Mr-"'''5Si^«£a^  ^.'  ^<=.,^^'^-rfmvS;t. 


